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also, my Auto nation Chevy dealer apparently cleaned house and fired the manager, many sales staff and the entire service department last year. The new sales staff is the usual persian bazaar hustler model (sigh). But The new service guys seem helpful and knowledgeable, and fixed several long term issues with my maxx including the rear shade latches.
wrt the lumbar support, they are going to fix it, but they do it in an odd way; they order the internal mechanism, then send the car to a seat specialist who takes the seat apart, replaces the lumbar mechanism, and then sews the seat back together. while under warranty, my fingers are X'ed this will work!
The only problem: Now, the Fuel Economy readout on the Driver Info Center reads much differently from before. Whereas it used to change gradually in .6 MPG increments it now fluctuates constantly. That's not a big concern, but what I'm wondering is why it indicates so much lower than before. With the old BCM I used to have an indication of 30 to 32 MPG on the highway at a steady 60 MPH. Now, it barely breaks the 25 MPG mark!
I've checked the mileage on the three fillups that I've made since the BCM change and they're in the 23 MPG range, a couple of MPG less than before but it's hard to judge with the colder weather.
I'm just wondering if this is anything to be concerned about. e2helper, or anyone else familiar with this car's electronics -- your input will be appreciated. Thanks.
I have had my roof liner replaced to fix the rear shade issues, had the steering column replaced on recall, had the rack replaced, and just had the fuel pump and battery replaced. All under the original warranty.
I know it's crazy, but I still really like the car. It handles well, and is very comfortable and fun to drive. I just hope to have all the rotten stuff replaced by the end of the third year.
I'd like to bring this up with the dealer but nothing like chasing an intermittant electrical thing for wasting time. But it would be worth having them look into the clunking sound with my steering. I'd also like to drive a new one to see how much clunking that makes.
It was a few degrees below zero a few nights ago and it was good to see the car still cranked and started with the remote. Yes, I think GM got that feature correct.
Also, the miles-to-empty display seems much more paranoid when I'm in the bottom 1/4 of the tank, sometimes dropping from 95 miles-to-empty down to 82 in just 1 or 2 miles of actual driving.
thanks
(no you're not in trouble :P )
You will still get that message but only if you start moving the vehicle above a few KPH. It just doesn't come on any more when stationary - I have no idea why they changed it. :confuse:
I've noticed that sometimes when I start the car with the remote, when I open the doors and sit down, before I put the key in the DIC reads "LOCKED" and shows the temperature.
Other times, under the same conditions, it shows nothing at all until I put the key in. Any thoughts what that's about?
I don't remember if I posted more of the details on what is occurring before or not. Basically the radio is getting woken up when it isn't supposed to during a remote start and because theft security infomation wasn't transmitted it is displaying LOCKED. That security information doesn't get transmitted until you put key in ignition and turn ignition on.
On Friday March 10 I was driving about 60 mph when the car began to shake like it had 4 square tires. I was running late for an appt and was nearby so I continued until I reached my destination. The problem was worse at high speeds but continued at 25 mph and below. I got out checked all 4 tires and they were fine. I left 2 hours later and there was no problem............until tonight.
10 miles into a 45 mile drive on I-95 the same thing happened. I was going about 70 mph. I pulled to the right lane and continued to drive. No warning lights, no smoke, just a lot of shaking like I had 4 square tires. It got progressively worse and made noise. My hands were shaking on the wheel. A couple miles later I pulled onto the shoulder and shut the car off. I waited 30 seconds or so merged into traffic and the problem continued. I pulled off at the next exit and stopped at a gas station. All tires were fine. I raised the hood. I thought I smelled the faint smell of something burning on the front right but it was a very busy station and it was tough to really tell. I waited another minute, started the car up and drove the next 30 miles with no problem.
Any ideas? I have a service appt tomorrow night.
Other than warped rotors the car has had no other problems.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Are you sure? When I hold constant pressure I hear them screeching as I come down around 10 MPH to stop. If I'm holding constant pressure, nothing is sliding, right?
I will check into this a little further
Were you able to find anything? I couldn't find anything in my manual about it. It makes no sense whatsoever that hitting the lock button doesn't store your settings and unlock restores them. If I drive around and customize the radio, then driver 2 comes up to drive it and unlock the car, bam, all their settings are overwritten. What were the designers thinking? Why didn't they just fix it for '05 rather than doing away with it?
Also in terms of the E-brake indicator I did look up but the car's computer is in the way. It has two screws that say do not over torque. If I removed those two screws would that take out the wires from the computer? I also noticed that the computer was hanging out there. I tried to push it back into the clip but it doesn't hold.
This is what's I thinking... I need to take apart that computer to get that the E-brake switch. Secondly the plastic from around the computer needs to be replaced because the plastic clip on the other side that I can't see is broken.
Any suggestions?
I thought about your description and it makes sense. The rotor can't be perfectly round after all. The car goes in on Tuesday and I'll ask them to check into it and also tell me how much life is left on the pads.
E2, can you please refresh me on the BCM issue with early '04's? Apparently when using remote start, you can get inconsistant infomration from the DIC (Dashboard information console) because of this.
As for lumbar support, the operation appears to be successful (the dealer had a seat specialist in on subcontract, who unstitched seatback bottom, replaced lumbar (welds were broken), and stitched seat back up (did a good job!).
I sometimes, but not always, see LOCKED in the radio display after a remote start. Behavour is inconsistant here.
I'm concerned about the long-term longevity of these seats. The weld on the lift mechanism is shot in my car at only around 23k. :sick:
I sometimes, but not always, see LOCKED in the radio display after a remote start. Behavour is inconsistant here.
I get the same thing, but it is so intermittent and inconsistent that there is nothing I can do. Almost guaranteed that the dealer won't see it, so no point in mentioning it. Its only a minor irritation anyway, the radio works when I key in.
In my case (not sure how), properly retorquing the tires made most of the shake go away about 1K miles later.
I'm concerned that so many major things have happened to this car in its warranty period. CU claims Malibus in general have a bad reliability record (the '04+ is no better). Only the Maxx managed to get an "average" rating, and mine is hardly average.
I just have new tires put on the front and the local tire store uses the "magic" torque sticks that won't overtighten. One lug was at 80 and the others were 95-100.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Yep power driver's seat. What happens is that I'm trying to move the rear of the seat bottom up. Instead of the entire seat moving, only one side is moving. While this is happening there is lots of clanking and popping as it tries to go up.
This is why I dislike CU more and more. Brand new model from the ground up and they give it a bad reliability rating (it had it from the start). So far my Maxx has been reliable powertrain and basic stuff-wise, but the nice featurs have been experiencing more problems than they should. This is better than the 03 I had. :lemon:
Could be. I have noticed the problem since at least 14K. It could have been a little sooner. I rotated the tires at 10K and 20K and have 22K now. The problem didn't go away after the last rotation so maybe they are still on wrong. Either way this is not right on a 9 month old car. Again, I got 78K and 71K out of my first 2 sets of brakes on my Subaru covering the same territory. They warped before replacing them but it was closer to 50K than 10K.