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I made some "operator" errors on the wiring, and installed it into the wrong wiring harness. After a quick call to Jim, all was resolved. You can't beat having direct cell phone customer service available when you need it.
Anyway, something as simple as a tailgate lock...personally, I am glad I didn't get the PopNLock, because now, it unlocks automatically with my passenger/rear doors. No need to use "another" key.
I'd highly recommend one to anyone.
"We recommend you use a weight distribution hitch when towing to keep your vehicle level with the ground"
With my '05 V-6 Red Access Cab having an interior blend of various shades of grey to include the dashboard and BEL textured seat covers, I went with all grey mats. It was great to read all of the owners' experiences with different brands of floormats. It's the form, fit and function that is most important to me which led to my buying WeatherTech. The striking black accents on my truck are the door sill protectors, the TOY running boards, the Dunlop tires and the Fold-A-Cover tonneau over the composite bedliner. Keep on truckin'.......
While I was there I had the manager take a look at my paint. Specifically on the drivers side behind the rear door. On the curve of the door sill most of the paint had been worn off. The passenger side didn't have a mark on it. The manager said this was the second truck he had seen with misalligned doors with the same paitn problems. The passenger door is actually adjusted to far in to the cab exposing the door sill to the elements.
They are fixing the door and repainting for me at no charge. If you look at the passenger side rear door it is adjusted a bit out from the cab and protects the sill, the drivers side is indented a bit causing the problem. Just an FYI for any of you to review before your paint is gone.....
This is my 4th Toyota truck and they have always been prone to paint issues around the rear of the cab / in front of the rear wheel well but this was way worse.
I'm ticked that Toyota doesn't include a brake controller when you buy the tow package like they do on American trucks. I mean, if you buy the tow package there's a good chance you're gonna be towing something heavy enough to need one! Instead, you have to install one mickey-mouse fashion someplace - just like I did on my 82 Toyota truck.
I have added the above gripe to the cost cutting rear drum brakes and sagging left side complaints...oh yeah, and occasional 'clunk' that others have also reported.
My question, is this really normal? I plan on getting a sheet of fairly thick rubber to go between the spare and the frame. That should stop further damage, but it sucks that I have to replace a brand new spare. I think my life is worth the $100.
Does anyone have Toyota's address? I think this requires a letter.
kbshadow
stockton Ca
I ordered direct from:
http://dynolock.com/
But it appears their site is under construction. You could probably order one by e-mailing Jim @: jim [at] dynolock [dot] com
PLEASE check your manual.
Thanks again....what a great web site Edmunds has and thanks to them for the forum.
Thanks.
Bob
Did you get the problem fixed afterwards?
I wouldn't try the tail lights. They are made from a softer plastic.
Yes, I did appreciate Toyota's handy plug under the dash. It sure made installing it a snap.
In water, brake shoes may be somewhat better protected than discs, but they also trap water and disc rotor/pads do not. No offense, but disks being superior in water has been a given for the last...well, forever.
As far as heat, it is well known that disks dissipate heat faster (despite anecdotal stuff how often you burned your hand on disks and not drums). Sure, in most daily driving it might not matter that much, but when you REALLY need them - like long downhill stretches where you're braking repeatedly (& building up heat), drum brakes will lose their ability to stop your vehicle much sooner than disks. Believe me, I've owned some older cars where this has happened and it can get scary (and lets leave downshifting to slow your vehicle for another day).
I'm no engineer, but I suspect heat builds up much more in drum brakes (& results in their losing braking ability) because they are enclosed and not subject to air flowing over them for cooling. To understand how important this is, just think how most race cars have fresh air ducted to their brakes.
Sure, drum brake drums & wheel cylinders are cheaper to replace when they wear out but that's like saying crank-up windows are better because they're cheaper to replace than electric windows. How many race cars - the ultimate abuse vehicle, have drum brakes and not disks? None that I can think of. In the wet, repeated use etc. disks are just better. If drums were better, race cars would have them.
Toyota put drums on the back of the Taco because they're a bit cheaper to make, not because they're better. Personally, I'll take the disks for their superior stopping ability in all conditions and pay more when they need replacing.
4WD is a must. I would prefer a smaller truck.
My daughter will use it occasionally and wants automatic transmission.
I do not need or want an extended or double cab.
I like the newer Tacoma models (2005 and newer), but it appears you cannot get automatic transmission with a 4wd regular cab. Right?
What alternatives are out there?
Another 'big rig' comparison? First, it was the guy thinking a stick was better than an automatic for towing because big rigs had manual transmissions, and now you're thinking drums are better because big rigs use them.
Hey, I'm all for exchanging views and thoughts, but if you're not informed on a subject, take a pass instead of using some lame 'big rig' comparison to our Tacoma's.
But lastly, and to use your own 80% of braking is done by the front brakes (which I do agree with), if drums are better, then why do all new cars/trucks have discs on the front and drums on the rear (if at all) where only 20% of the braking is done?
I never said that drums were better on the front of vehicles. I said they were more than adequate on the rear because they can lock up easily. The only time you will need more braking in the rear is if you have a heavy load, where I also said if you need more braking, get something with rear discs.
As for the big rig comment, you mentioned some vehicle that abuses brakes, and I personnaly don't think you will find a vehicle that puts more miles with more weight than big rigs. I think discs would be good for them, but I have not seen anyone spend the money to design a disc system for them, so obviously the industry thinks they too are adequate or not worth the extra money to have.
Having done several thousand brake jobs I think I might be able to consider myself informed on the brake subject. My opinion about having disc vs drum on the back is simply an opinion, but it is based on experience.
When they do come out, do the 2006s drop in price a few grand? How does that all work?
I'm looking to buy a crew cab 4x4 auto Taco this year.
According to the manufacturer there were to be two packages banded together, fronts and rear respectively. Preliminary investigation alleges somewhere along the line the banding was removed and the rear mat got ripped off. The good news is that Cabela's called me with a manufacturers' promise to ship in 3 days. Maybe I'll report a happy ending later this week. The moral of the story, Cabela's is reputable and uses its leverage when needed.
Sorry about your truck, but it did what it was supposed to do. Thanks for letting us know how well built the Tacomas really are.
I also don't know of any truck with a standard rear-locker (maybe as part of a package however), but mine has already saved me a lot of work (or walk) twice.
Now then, I just wish that Toyota would have used the money they saved on the drum brakes to figure out a way to NOT have my DC 4x4 one full inch lower on the left side than the right! I know someone complained of this earlier but has anyone actually gotten Toyota to fess-up it's a problem and fix it?