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Comments
If the gray is really in short supply then I could see the $500 additional mark up - just like I would not see any problem with paying under invoice if I want a car that a dealer had 10 of that they can't sell - supply and demand cuts both ways.
But I wonder if the gray is really in short supply - did you tell the sales person you really wanted gray? Are they are just jacking up the price because they think they can get you to pay more for the color you want. That is what it sound like to me.
Since the gray cost them no more than any other color I would tell them to stick it where the sun does not shine - and find another dealer (Maybe Mazda maybe not)
When the sales person wants to know the color I want I normally say - I am not sure - that I would consider the black, white , gray/silver or blue - I normally also say I don't like green, brown/tan/beige or red - because I really don't like these colors - that narrows it down some - I have always ended up with the color I want - and have never had anyone try and charge extra.
next on the list (for later)... winter tires.
Yes and no. Yes, there are different sizes but no they are not for specific cars. Buy mats designed for cars not for trucks; in some cases the plastic mat can be "trimmed" around the edges using a razor knife. Actually, having an oversized plastic mat is good not only because it covers more of the carpet but being heavier it is less prone to move.
On the topic of winter tires, you may want to scoot over to canadiandriver.ca for some informative articles. That's where, for example, you'll find that for the winter it is better to buy a smaller rather than a larger tire.
Alternately. if you recall any lease numbers yourself, please do post. Thank you!
autonomous, I respect your opinion but I think this "smaller tire is better for the winter" stuff is not completely justified. Whoever said that was probably talking about driving in a foot of fresh snow, which would float a fatter tire more than a skinny one (just like they use fat skis in the powder).
Since such conditions are rare, even in Canadian winters, and since most city drivers drive on plowed roads, I believe that larger contact patch is always better than a smaller one. Any arguments contra?
- I put larger tires on, and there's this really tiny gap between the tire and the fender now. I'm afraid if the snow starts accumulating there, wheels won't turn at all.
Tires work OK in a straight line, but they do scrape against the wheel well when cornering sharply or hitting a bump or a curb, especially at speed.
I am VERY unhappy with Active Green+Ross dealer who assured this would not be a problem, and am bringing the car back to get proper size tires. Should have gone with my gut feeling.
Moral of the story: Always use manufacturer recommended tire size, or at least make sure total diameter (wheel + tire) is very close to original!
Well, the short answer is expert advice and experience.
As I mentioned earlier (post 514 above) it's been three winters of problem-free city driving (around Ottawa and to/from Montreal and Toronto) using the winter tires recommended by a tire franchise found across Canada (i.e. Frisby). Their expert advice was: use a tire with a narrow footprint and a tall sidewall. They explained that the wider the footprint the more of a chance of hydroplaning or getting stuck. I like to think of winter tires as skates with tall boots rather than snowboards. This advice was confirmed by the article in Canadian Driver that I had quoted:
How can a narrower tire improve road grip? The rule of thumb from experts is that a narrower tire will cut through rain, snow and slush and bear down on the road better than a wider tire, which will tend to float up and over, losing grip in the process.
p.s. I also pay attention to Mother Nature
fowler3
I bought my Car mats at Walmart for about $40 for the front and rears. Really deep tread, they've worked perfectly over the years. Be very careful with cleaning the carpet once and awhile over the winter. The first year I left it til spring and it took forever to get the salt stains off, lots of vinegar and a sore arm from scrubbing.
The part that concerns me is you can see where the rear brake pad has contacted the surface of the rotor - because it has worn a path into the rotor. Since the pad did not rub on the top edge of the rotor it has no wear. This has created a lip on the top edge of the rotor that is 1mm on the outside and 2mm on the inside. Is it normal for a rotor to wear this much in only 18K miles?
My front rotors show no signs of wear.
I did not realize my rear rotors were this worn - I guess all the grinding must have done some damage.
I plan to push very hard and see if I can get them to replace the rotors.
TWO strange things about the TSB on rear brake grind - first it does not require the rotor to be replaced or even turned. This is just NOT acceptable - only a fool would put new brake pads on and not turn the rotor - second there are two different rear brake pad part numbers
B3YP-26-48Y for the grinding noise TSB
BPYK-26-48ZA for the problem with grooved rotors
Not sure why the same car would - depending on the situation - need two different brake pads.
2005 Sport GT hatch (white)
auto, air, sunroof
tint and hidden hitch
$21,400 plus taxes.
A "year" old and a road trip sure, but happy to save $4000+ from a new 06 and so happy the hunt is OVER. Can't wait to get it!
Got a chance to measure the disc thickness, front 24.87mm (new is 25mm) rear 10.48mm (new is 11mm.) mileage is 45000km. This surprised me as the rears looked much more worn as you had stated. I guess one good measurement is worth a thousand opinions.
They were planning on using the same pad you had installed but now are going to use a different one BPYK-26-48ZA. No one knows why there are two different pads - I ask if they could go ahead and install the updated pad with the new rotors and they said - no - if the rotors get replaced they use the BPYK-26-48AZ - if they keep the existing rotors then the new pad (B3YP-26-48AZ) is used.
The only reason they could come up with is - this is what Mazda recommends.
Per my (crude) measurements the rear rotors when new were 12MM thick - the rotor was worn down to just a hair over 9mm - 1mm of the wear was on the outside (the side you can see) the inside was worn down 2mm. The outside rear pads were worn down pretty far - but the inside pads were just about gone - I would have soon been "metal on metal". My car has 18,000 miles.
At first they were going to replace the pads only - and turn the rotors - but since the rotors were so worn down they would have been too think to be safe.
This is the 4th time I have had my car in for brake issues - so I hope this finally ends my problem.
My understanding is all (most) Mazda3's have more wear on the rear brakes than they do on the front.
One important thing - even though I have had all kinds of brake problems the brakes have always worked great - they stop the car fast and straight.
Per my (crude) measurements the rear rotors when new were 12MM thick - the rotor was worn down to just a hair over 9mm - 1mm of the wear was on the outside (the side you can see) the inside was worn down 2mm. The outside rear pads were worn down pretty far - but the inside pads were just about gone - I would have soon been "metal on metal". My car has 18,000 miles.
How did you measure the thickness, Bill. Calipers? Ruler? 18,000 miles seems premature wear unless you're experiencing a lot of stop 'n go traffic. Do you do primarily city driving?
Mazda3's have more wear on the rear brakes than they do on the front.
That's been my experience also. I had the brake pads of my Protege5 (predecessor of the Mazda3) inspected by my dealer this spring and he said at 51,000 km / 32,000 miles the front had worn 40% & rear had worn 50%. Currently, at 63,000 km / 39,000 miles, the brakes are holding up fine even in the wet; I have my fingers crossed that they will last one more winter.
The good news is I got the car back late yesterday - took the first drive today and unless I turn the stereo off and listen very carefully I can't here any noise at all when I stop. Before - even with the stereo on I could hear a SSSSHHHHH noise at every stop sign. Sounded like I was dragging a concrete block behind the car. The first time someone would ride in the Mazda3 they would ask me - What is that funny noise?
For the first time in almost 22 months my car has no problems - no check engine light, no false seat belt warning light, no harsh shifts, no thumping suspension, no grinding brakes, no stalling engine, no rattle in the door, no popping sound when I roll the window up/down - everything is fixed! The temp in Houston Today is only 60 degrees so even my HVAC is working great.
We're all breaking out in song : Oh Happy Day! Oh Happy Day! Finally you get your just reward, Bill, for all your perserverance!
I washed the Mazda3 today - also vacuumed the carpet, cleaned the dash & inside of the windows - its like having a new car!
I still expect the tranny to clunk when I first drive off in the morning - but its now as smooth as silk - it may take a few weeks for me to get use to it - but it sure is nice.
Not sure if you need to break in new brake pads - I assume you should take it a little easy for a 1-200 hundred miles - so I will - can't see how it could hurt to let the pads wear in slowly.
If I can go a whole month with no new problems I may just get some new tires and keep this car for another 2 years.
I am actually looking forward to my morning drive tomorrow.
I ask if they could go ahead and install the updated pad with the new rotors and they said - no - if the rotors get replaced they use the BPYK-26-48AZ - if they keep the existing rotors then the new pad (B3YP-26-48AZ) is used.
I know the part numbers have been discussed in previous posts, but I assume that when they turn the OEM rotors, they put on OEM style pads. Is there a different rotor part number as well? They likely created a new rotor and pad for the brake dust issues so when the dealer installs new rotors, they use the new rotor part number, which requires the new style pads. The OEM parts are probably obsolete.
About the rears wearing out quicker, wasn't this caused by the tuning in the brake system to apply more pressure to the rear wheels to help shift the weight of the vehicle mid turn, creating a more balanced feel?
I ask if the pads and rotor they were using are a new design - and was told "no" it is the same exact parts that were originally installed on my car - but they will remove some coating off the surface of the rotor before they install them.
I ask if they could use the new pads on my car - they said no but if a problem develops then they could switch over to the new pad. Seemed strange - so I ask why not just go straight to the pad that you know is not a problem - was told that Mazda will not authorize it -
The good news is my brakes no longer make the loud grinding noise - I can live with a little break dust -
BTW - I did a search on Mazda brake pads - the BPYK-26-48AZ number comes up as the Mazda3 replacement part.
The VIN has been checked out thouroughly but I'm hoping someone can tell me yes, the interior does come in grey - I am not being scammed somehow!
1. Are the brakes still a problem?---because they were on both of my Mazdas.
2. Have they substantially improved/reengineered the exhaust systems?---it was an embarrassment on my '86 due to inadequate damping of the exhause components on the underside. 3. Are the automatic transmissions reliable?---as I recall my '86 had a defective modulator valve early in life. 4. Is there any substantive quality in the interior trim and seats? I will gauge that against our '95 Honda Civic---outstanding trim quality!
5. How do you rate the HNV (harshness, noise, vibration) of the vehicle?
6. Are the parts costs now more in line with others in this class?---the rotors on my '86 were $80.00 a pop!
7. Is there a 'recommended' dealer in the Ottawa area?
Answers to any and all of the above will be much appreciated.
Thanks
Happy motoring!
1. Are the brakes still a problem?
Was the problem premature wear or something else? My Mazda Protege5 has had over 63K kilometres (40K miles) without any issues.
2 to 5: You may want to read the August 2004 issue of Consumer Reports for their review of the Mazda3 and other small sedans; the April 2005 annual auto issue has some more comparison and reliability information. In general, Mazda3 and its predecessor, the Protege5, rate very highly in almost all categories.
6. Are the parts costs now more in line with others in this class? Are you comparing this to other imports or compacts? Are you considering only OEM or also aftermarket parts.
7. Is there a 'recommended' dealer in the Ottawa area?
My suggestion is to visit all three (four, if you include Argus Mazda in Gatineau) and practice your negotiation skills. I would also suggest asking about dealer and documentation fees. It is also a good chance to look at their garages to see the type of service you may expect. This way you'll also have fun test driving the car a few times.
Those issues aside---I am generally aware of the Consumers Reports ratings for the vehicle---and the fun-to-drive aspect as reported by various owners. However---reading the postings---it would appear to me that Air Conditioning and brakes (rear ones) are currently an issue under discussion and that Mazda Canada is not very approachable and tends to leave their dealers solving owners complaints/issues. My reason for the posting being that I am considering 'downsizing' from an Accord next Spring---as my spouse is not comfortable with its bulk---having driven the 323, Civic, and Jetta over the past 19 years---and now the '03 Accord. The new '06 Civic will be considered as well.
My intention will be to test-drive various cars in that class---including the Imprezza, and possibly the new Jetta (another class---of course).
Again, thanks for your feed-back.
She will be buying the car before Christmas and is willing to buy from toronto to Ottawa dealers. So If you gotten a great deal on this car let me know please.
She is a retired military personnel just in case there is some type of discount otherwise im a student and ill buy the car and then see it back to her if there is a student discount.
I glad to be on this forum everyone seems friendly and helpful. Thanks for any help or input given.
Steve(N)
A few questions for you:
What type of cars has she driven in the past?
Does she have specific requirements? e.g. automatic; fuel efficient; large trunk ...
What are three features she would love to have and what are three things she can't stand in cars generally?
Will she be the sole driver?
What I have experienced so far with my Mazda 3 is a completly different experience. On the few occasions that we have had any accumulation of snow here in Toronto, I have been terrified in driving my Mazda 3. The car has no grip on the road and it's like it has skates for tires. I have never experienced anything like this. With snow on the road and even accelerating slowly from a stop, the car pulls drastically to the right. Turning a corner, the car has no grip and has threatended to put me into the curb on numerous occasions. This car, that handles like a dream on dry and even rain soaked roads, scares the heck out of me driving it in the Winter.
My question is, will snow tires offer significant improvement or is the car simply too light and has too much torque to drive safely in the winter ??
Btw, I currently have the original Goodyear tires that came with the car.
Yes.
... or is the car simply too light and has too much torque to drive safely in the winter
No. The Mazda3 is one of the most popular cars in Canada for the last couple of years, do you think all those Canadians stop driving them in the winter?
BFGoodrich, Bridgestone, Michelin, Toyos, Yokohamas all make excellent winter tires. When you buy your snows, I strongly suggest that you consider separate rims to make the transition each year easier. Expect to pay approximately C$700 to a C$1000 for the tires+rims.
I don't think I can blame the Toyo's because we have the same tires installed on our Rear Drive Safari Van and it handles fantastic with these tires.
I would like to here from other Mazda 3 owners that live in Eastern Ontario or Montreal area and here what they have found with their Mazda 3s :confuse:
Interesting. What size Toyos? What problems do you experience?
The snow tires make a huge difference. Her car feels totally in control. It's kind of late in the winter to get myself snow tires but next year I will definately get myself a set of rims and Blizzaks.
I just find I do not have the control and grip that one would expect from winter tires. Not sure I can blame the tires though because like I said in previous message we have these on our Rear drive Safari and are fantastic.
Also! I drive from Cornwall to Montreal frequently and see a lot of poor road conditions.
Do you use these tires? is that why your asking?
I purchased an XM radio. I got the portable unit by Delphi. What I've found works great, is using the the clip that attaches to the vents. It gives you easy access to the unit. That means it's one small cord from the unit to the lighter. In regards to the antenna, you have to bite the bullet and take the the panels off the interior to hide the wires. I've put my antenna outside the passenger's window. Not sure if that helps or not.
The Safari is a truck or truck-like isn't it? I guess the driving dynamics would be quite different than those for a light car, like the Mazda3, but in any case I would expect what ever vehicle I drive to be safe.
You may want to talk to a tech at the dealer the next time you're there to see if there's anything that they would recommend (e.g. tire pressure settings).
I drive to Montreal from Ottawa monthly so I know what you mean about poor road conditions.