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Chevy C/K Series Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,679
    I am not sure if this year is electronically or vacuum controlled, but if vacuum, I'd check for a leak in the hosing.
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,679
    start by verifying you are getting fuel... is this carb'ed or FI?
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • hey, this sounds like it might possibly be a a problem with your ignition coil. it quite typical of a coil to fail once it gets hot but when it cools back down will work again till it heats back up.
  • I have two chevy trucks a 93 1500 4x4 and a 95 2500 2x2.......both are having similar problems.....and there are two common factors that appear in both...

    the transmission will not shift out of 2nd to 3 or 4th...
    but when this happens both vehicles have the ANTI-BRAKE light indicator lite on the dash but when the light goes out they both start shifting again.
  • Wondering if anyone can help...

    Got a problem with the tail lights on a 1990 Chevy K1500 that started about 1.5 weeks ago. Brake lights and turn signals are also affected. Here are the symptoms:

    Headlight switch on: tail lights/brake lights not working, turn signals (front or rear) not working. Turn signals blink one time and then quit.

    Headlight switch off: brake lights and turn signals work if not used at same time. When the tranny is in reverse, the tail lights come on. Back-up lights do not work.

    Using turn signals with brake pedal depressed causes alternating blinking of tail lights.

    I replaced the headlight switch on Sunday thinking that may be contributing to the problem -- no good (also did this because about a month ago, I noticed a small wisp of smoke coming from the headlight switch. Only saw it once, and no problems occurred until the current issue.).

    One other thing to mention: Several months ago I had to remove the bed. A trailer light wiring harness had been spliced into the rear light wiring harness. All wires were pulled apart accidentally. I re-connected the rear wiring using standard splicing connectors and everything worked fine until last week. Not sure if this is contributing to the issue. I did not reconnect trailer wiring harness.

    Would like to try and fix this myself. Thanks for any advice.

    WC
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,679
    It sounds to me like you definitely have some wires crossed. What is causing it? Most likely something related to the bed removal that is just now beginning to manifest. Perhaps rubbing that has now worked though some of the wire sheathing? Maybe a problem related to the area you spliced earlier like corrosion or moisture causing intermittent arching. If you are able, try tracing the wiring from the tail lamps back to the distribution point to look for damage.
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • Will the front end suspension parts off a 1978,79 Camaro, fit on 1980 c10 to lower the front end and help handling? Any ideas.
  • liu1liu1 Posts: 1
    hello eveybody I have a 1993 chevy van rebuilt transmission 4L80E automatic 1 year ago. Now trans slips from 1 to 2nd , brake indictor light goes on and off. (antilock light) and slips from 15-30 miles an hour when I step on the gas. I had the garage replace the fuel pump and strainer in the gas tank, they had to drop the gas tank to get to it. sounds like similar problem can you explain how to solve problem? Email me at my268inc@hotmail.com Thanks, Liu
  • Have you put any thought into the fuel pressure regulator, if you have one? How about a new gas cap, or the ruel pump relay? Just a thought.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • Diesel engines usually have a bleed valve somewhere close to the injectors, or before it splits off to the injectors. Like bleeding brakes, you need 2 people to do this. While attempting to start the engine, open the bleed valve, and then close it before the engine stops cranking or you will suck even more air into the system. Repeat untill the engine starts. If it does not, then you may have to bleed each individual injector.
  • I am having the same problem on my 93 2500 truck if you get any solutions please let me know. My truck has been in the shop for 6 months and i need to get it out. The transmission is sliping when the brake indicator light goes on. When it is off it works fine. Please E-mail sdcreto@hotmail.com
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    As mentioned in the post box and the Rules of the Road (link in left margin) we specifically request that you not post your email address in posts. It benefits others when answers are shared here in the discussion, and it prevents malicious use of your email address.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • Hello, I put a message on Dec.12(7:40am).The message nr. is 187.Nobody answer me back.Is no answer? Please just tell me if you know what I am talking about or not.
  • 2rublu2rublu Posts: 1
    Did you get this issue resolved? I just replaced my engine and clutch, and the slave cylinder. I'm not able to "bleed" it. What's the trick?

    Thank you. :cry:
  • mkjj123mkjj123 Posts: 18
    I hope this is the right forum for this question. My appologies if it is not.

    We have a 2004 3500 with dual gas tanks. It seems that noone (dealer, mechanics) can tell us how the tanks actually feed the engine. Do they feed equally, in that if both are filled they should empty at about the same rate? Will it cause a problem if one is filled and the other is let run dry? Does the fuel system require that each tank have fuel?
    We typically fill each tank equally; 10 gallons in each, or fill both at the same time. This is probably the best thing to do but it would be nice if we knew what was actually going on in there.

    Any insight on this would be greatly appreciated.

    Regards
  • my7007my7007 Posts: 1
    Hi to all, just wondering if anyone ever heard of a humming noise when braking with my chevy 3500 dump. Could it be ABS? I have not experianced anything like it before. The truck is a 99' 4x4 d.r.w. 46k miles. Thanks
  • Hi everybody i am new to the site. I was wondering If anyone has encountered the same problem. My truck is a 1996 2500 HD, Vortec 350. The truck sometimes will not start after a rainy day. I am sure It is an ignition related problem, If I ad fuel manually or even "quick start" it has no effect. It has recent plugs and wires, and will try to start but just won't catch. If I leave it for a day or so It will fire up first try like nothing happened.
  • cms07cms07 Posts: 1
    Hi, I drive a 1984 K10. About 4-5 months ago I put new rear brakes on my truck. In the past 2 months there has been a high pitched squealing when I step on the brakes, but the problem seems to go away after a while of driving. I took the tires of and checked the front and rear brakes, and they seemed fine so I turned the rear drums, yet when I put them back on it didn't help. Does anyone have an idea on what I should do, Thanks.
  • Remove steering wheel (will need a puller), tighten torx screws behind turn signal cancel cam may want to apply thread locker to screws one at a time. (three screws if memory serves) get access to 2 of the three screws by moving turnsignal lever like you are turning on blinker.
  • lyterlyter Posts: 3
    Chevy Diesel 2500HD..I had a heater core failure while using the unit. As a result the entire “climate control” system is contaminated with a horrific anti-freeze smell. AF also leaked on the carpet. The core has been replaced as well as the core doors and surrounding components, delivery ducts and carpet sanitized…all for no good. The AF smell is still there although not as bad. I’ve used every odor eliminator on the market that I know of…even the new one “clean air”…all to no avail. Anyone have any ideas on smell removal?
  • My husband has a 1994 Chevy Silverado. When you start the truck, it makes a knocking noise coming from the blower. It will knock for about a minute and stop. When you turn the truck off, it does it again. Does anyone know what is causing this and how to fix it?
  • I have a 97'C/K 1500 4x4 with the vortec. 200K miles and the same problem. I wore out the starter trying to start it cold. I have replaced everything you have plus the fuel pump and still the same problem, until I bought a quality cap with the brass pins inside. This takes care of the problem for about 2000 miles. Seems like I am getting moisture inside the cap somehow. Hope this helps.
  • I know this post is almost a year old, but I have a 72 C-10 and used NADA by going thru their classic cars link. It gave me a low, average and high retail value.
  • Lost low beams about 4 months ago and took to dealer for them to check out. Was informed that multi-function switch was bad. Still have daytime running lights, but also lost high beams about three weeks ago. Before pulling steering wheel, is there a fuse or link somewhere that should be checked first? Thanks !
  • rene01rene01 Posts: 12
    Hello,
    I have a 74' Chevy pickup & I'm going to buy a reman. 350 motor plus tranny for it. My question(s)are: What will I need to do/buy to get the truck to fire right up? I also want it to run quieter, or at least sound quieter & not like a Harley coming down the road. Not that I mind Harleys... just not when it's a pickup. :)
    Any & all suggestions are greatly appreciated.
    Rene' :shades:
  • My sons 87 chey 305 auto pick up
    Starts fine then when you shut it off and try to restart
    the truck won't start again, cracks,
    but no fuel coming out of the injectors.

    What is going on ?
  • i had same problem it was a coroaded coil wire. just pull and clean see if it works
  • i have a 1992 g20 chevy van and all of the dash gages quit working help.
  • Sounds like the vent door solenoid that's located between the firewall and the blower motor..My 1993 was doing it also. It's quite a feat to replace it so I just cut the electrical wire that feeds it. I think it only effects the A/C when you set the 'MAX' to recuiculate the air inside the cab. I havn't been able to notice any differ :confuse: ence except the noise is gone.
  • I replaced the Wiper Motor in my 1994 C1500 last summer. About 2 months ago (Winter time in Michigan) I started having a problem with my wipers not returning to their "park" position and not stopping. I usually end up putting the truck in Neutral, shutting it off, and starting it back up at traffic lights, which stops the wipers. This only seems to be an issue when it's below 40 degrees F outside.

    I've heard that some relays in the wiper motor have bad solders on the board. Is this my problem? and if so, what do I specifically need to solder?
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