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Chevy C/K Series Maintenance and Repair

1568101115

Comments

  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    Rene', you seem to be inexperienced at swapping engines etc so the best thing I can tell you is to enlist some knowledgable help.
    You need someone to assist you that knows how to bring up oil pressure before firing the engine, how to check/set initial timing, how to properly break-in the new cam etc.
    In short, you furnish the grunt power and let them furnish the knowledge to do the job properly.
    Good luck
  • For all you with a starting problem, I will relate mine. I have a 1989 1500 Scottsdale with a 5.0 litre engine. Last Saturday, it would not start. After calling for a tow, the driver "wiggled some wires" and it started. This week, it would start or not at various times. Lots of people had lots of advice.
    Anyway, I replaced the fuel pump relay. No dice. I checked the fuse, the temperature sensor. No dice. I checked the plugs, wires and distributor - bad!. These were replaced. The truck started. The next day, 3 starts and it stopped at an intersection. Tow it back and try the fuel filter. It started. Now, I will run it awhile tomorrow and see what happens and keep you posted. You guys with the "it just won't start" know that when you find the problem, hopefully it is fixed. The yes it will, no it won't is very frustrating. Other than that, when it runs,it runs very smooth without any smoke, etc.
  • mblack3mblack3 Posts: 10
    could you tell me where the crankshaft sensor is located on 1996 gmc pickup?
  • dispencer1dispencer1 Posts: 489
    I have an '86 Silverado 4wd short bed pickup. The AC works great however it works on the vent setting as well as the AC ones. Does anyone have a fix for this? Thanks - Karl Spence
  • THANKS FOR THE INFORMATION. CAN YOU TELL ME WHERE TO FIND THE WIRE THAT FEEDS IT. PLEASE EXPLAIN IN DETAIL. :blush:
  • txeng66txeng66 Posts: 1
    I JUST BOUGHT THIS TRUCK 4 WEEKS AGO AND I JUST BLEW THE MOTOR ON IT 2 DAYS AGO I AM GOING TO SWAP IT FROM A 305 TO A 350, EVERY THING ON THE TRUCK IS ORIGINAL IS TEAR ANYTHING MAJOR THAT IS NOT GOING TO BOLT UP
  • nellie27nellie27 Posts: 1
    I have an 86 chevy c-30 it has a 5.7 and I am having the same problem. My truck starts when it wants but right now it just wont start. I have replaced the distributer, plugs, wires and I dont know if it has anything to do with it but the key is broken inside the key hole. Is there some kind of security for this vehicle. It turns it just wont start, like it doesnt have spark. Im stumped.
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    If the ignition key is broken off how are you attempting to start the vehicle??
  • oberusaloberusal Posts: 1
    Having a weird problem with my truck. When first started it runs great, plenty of power. After it warms up, the idle gets a little rough (but not too bad). However, the truck seems to strain when accelerating from say 30mph to 60mph. If I try to accelerate up a hill (1/4 mile or so) the engine temp rises from the nominal 160F up to 210F. Get off the pedal and it cools back down. Outside temperature (0F to 95F) does not effect it!

    Truck has been tuned up (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, timing, airfilter), new water pump, new fan clutch, new belt and idler. None of this effected the performance.

    Is this the sign of a catalytic converter problem? I was thinking of changing the O2 sensor, EGR (for the rough idle) and maybe the CAT. Just didn't want to start shotgunning things.

    Truck has 120K miles on it, and everything is original (sensors and stuff).

    Any help or clues greatly appreciated.
  • This is a continuing saga of my attempts to get my 89 Chev 1500 running with a 5.0 litre engine. I thought I had it licked with the fuel filter, but it stalled at a traffic light and would not restart. Finally, I found a mechanic that listened! I was at the stage where any more work required equipment I did not have. Anyway, it was the ignition module, a little box under the distributor. It was beginning to fail and this is how it acts up. As it warms up, various parts start to fail. The mechanic had a $6,000 tester for this thing and when it was tested, wow. For me, the part was $114 Canadian. No problems for 3 days now. Good luck with yours.
  • I Lost my only set of keys for my 1983 Chevrolet pickup. I was wondering If there was any way to get a spare set made using my VIN number or any other way. Also If there is no way, I do own another 1983 pickup of the same make and model, would it be easy to remove the steering column or the ignition? Any help would be greatly appreciated
  • My 1994 chevy C/K 3500 series diesel 4X4 truck chevy will run fine for a week to a couple months, then one day it just dies while driving!! Most of the time it will re-start, and sometimes I have to wait 30 mins+ to start it, and sometimes it won't start at all!!! I put alot of cash into this truck and no one can tell me whats the problem, please help!!! I replaced fuel filter, injectors, battery alternator(all bad) and one of the fuel pumps, guys can anybody tell me the secret???? :cry: :cry:
  • disco2disco2 Posts: 4
    The horn just suddenly stopped working, wouldnt you know that I have to go for an inspection soon, I have checked the fuses and everything else obvious- SOMEONE HELP ME!!!! :confuse: :confuse: :confuse: :confuse: :confuse:
  • disco2disco2 Posts: 4
    The horn just suddenly stopped working, wouldnt you know that I have to go for an inspection soon, I have checked the fuses and everything else obvious- SOMEONE HELP ME!!!!
  • spechspech Posts: 1
    Hey there, we have a 2001 silverado 2500HD deisel 4x4, has anyone had there rear extension housing crack. We did, the dealer said it was due to a bad u- joint.The bill is $2500.00, so I went looking and found some tsb reports that show the problem. But am told they are of no good to me. I was told they were only for the dealers, so they would know how to fix the problem. Is this true?? I tried to argue when they told me that the tsb was posted back in 2004. Apparently this is only a problem in 4x4's.
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    Put a vacumn gauge on a good source on the intake manifold, run engine at 1500-2000 rpm after warmed up and observe reading on gauge. If it is the cat you will see a steady drop in the reading as the engine runs and backpressure builds up in the cat.
  • After my experiences, have you had the ignition control module tested? If not, start there. Apparently, when they start to fail, they are intermittent and have various engine speeds at which they operate. One speed (rpm) can fail while the others are okay. Good luck!
  • I currently have 235/75/15 tires on my Chevy C-10, the speedo. is about 5 mph off. I need new tires so I have decided to buy a larger tire to off-set the speedo. problem and give the truck a "beefier" look. I have looked at 265/75/15 which will solve the speedo. problem, but, all I have been able to find were "all-terrain" tires that really do not suit my needs on a 2 wheel drive truck, price is an issue also, any suggestions?
  • gmjunkiegmjunkie Posts: 1
    I can’t get my bi levels to turn off running the heat and air conditioning. What causes this?

    My cruise control doesn’t respond as I engage it. Don’t know if it’s vacuum or electrical. I like to trouble shoot it and find out why it takes so long to engage or sometime doesn’t want to respond at all, this problem is intermediate.

    Can I change from TBI to Fuel Injection by just changing the manifold or do I have to do other changes to it. I have 188899 mile on it and soon looking to rebuild it.

    Thanks
  • clark15clark15 Posts: 1
    I have a 1995, 2500, automatic transmission 4x4...with a 454 engine 105,000 miles and it is stuck in park.
    Yesterday, I was able to get the floor gear into nuetral, and then it went into drive, but today eveything is locked up. Any ideas?
  • The fuel pump on my '98 chevy c/k 1500 died a couple weeks ago. 115,000 miles on truck. Pump was loud from the day I purchased truck new. For those of you who also have a loud fuel pump, a day or two before it died I noticed the tone of the pump changed. Also, the engine wasn't cranking over on first rev. (I usually put ignition key to on for a few seconds to pressurize gas system before turning key to start - engine alway starts after 1 rev). Anyways, I had to replace the whole fuel pump assembly. A couple days after replacing it the gas tank level indicator/gauge started to continuously fluctuate rapidly about +/- 1/32". There's no fluctuation when the tank is full. Also, when the truck is first started the indicator needle goes hard to the right then back to level. Anyone ever see these problems with the gas gauge or sending unit? Fixes? I'd hate to drop the gas tank again if it's not necessary. Thanks.
  • dchase1dchase1 Posts: 15
    GOT CODE PO340 PO341 REPLACED CAMSHAFT SENSOR.REPLACED ROTOR.CLEARED CODE.DROVE FOR 10 MILES RAN GOOD.SHUT OFF RESTARTED NO CODE.STARTED NEXT MORNING PO340 PO341 APPEARED AGAIN.OH YEAH BOTH TIMES PO340 HAS TWO ENTRYS.CHECKED WIRING.ITS OK.RAN GOOD FOR 3 DAYS WITH LIGHT ON.NOW WORSE THAN BEFORE REPLACEMENT.RUNS ROUGH.IDLES BAD IN DRIVE.GOOD IN PARK.RUNS GOOD WHEN YOU PUNCH IT.AROUND 60 DOES SOMETHING.NOT SURE IF MISFIRE OR WHAT.I WANT MY KICKASS VORTEC 350 BACK.ANY CLUES?
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,459
    If the voltage to the camshaft sensor is good, then perhaps a knock sensor or the crankshaft position sensor? It certainly sounds like a timing issue, though a vacuum problem could also be the culprit.
  • dchase1dchase1 Posts: 15
    the camshaft position sensor controls the timing in combination with the crankshaft sensor.the only codes im getting are for the camshaft sensor.po340 twice and po 341 .i'm thinking maybe i got a defective camshaft sensor.im gonna take it out tommorrow and try another one.
  • quantum1quantum1 Posts: 6
    It sounds like the brake switch is not working correctly. That will keep it from up shifting correctly and kick the A.B.S light on
  • quantum1quantum1 Posts: 6
    check the ignition switch they are known to do that
  • quantum1quantum1 Posts: 6
    you have one injector that is shorted out. If one shorts they will all shut down.
  • quantum1quantum1 Posts: 6
    try blocking off the return line maybe you have a fuel pressure regulator sticking.
  • quantum1quantum1 Posts: 6
    do a stall test on the converter. The stall is maximum rpm will let the engine go. It sound like you have a bad torque converter
  • quantum1quantum1 Posts: 6
    The hood is not sealing up by the cab and water is getting on and in the dist cap. Replace cap and hood seal.
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