Chevy C/K Series Maintenance and Repair

dchase1 · April 2006

the camshaft sensor is definetly no getting a signal.what besides the knock sensor could cause this.why would it not get a signal from the position marker on the cam.i do not believe my camshaft is bad because it runs like an animal after the idle is relearned till u hit a slight incline or after about 10 miles

dchase1 · April 2006

there is also a knock sensor module that can be replaced in the pcm in this vehicle

xwesx · April 2006

Well, the position marker is typically a contact point or a magnet or something that will activate a signal in the sensor that the position has passed. If it was maybe grimy or the gap was too large, then the consistency of the signal could diminish.... that one was just a shot in the dark though. Because of the strong running right after a reset, I am inclined to think that this is an unlikely scenario.

xwesx · April 2006

Out of range.... so right, what would cause that? A bad resistor somewhere in the circuitry? I doubt the knock sensor is in the same circuit as the cam sensor, as the info they relay would have to go back to the control unit before to each other. As for the problem being in the control unit.... possible, but impossible to ferret out short of replacing the thing, which is expensive enough that one certainly would not go this route on a whim! :mad: Argh, this whole problem is really frustrating, and it is not even my truck!

dchase1 · April 2006

zwesx hi. it is very frustrating,but i like to figure stuff out.k i'm thinking now that u got me started on the knock sensor that it is intermittent seeing its kind of like a microphone and it is fine at idle thats why no code is set.once it bounces around it malfunctions for a moment or retards the timing whatever and vibrates the camshaft which sets the code for the camshaft position sensor.thats my latest theory.im gonna replace it tommorrow and see what happens. :confuse:

dchase1 · April 2006

basically i think that if something vibrates the camshaft that would set the out of range,malfunction code.it could happen when the light goes on after it knocks misfires whatever.now the question is what is it?is the sound i hear on inclines a mislire,knock or a bad universal joint while it upshifts.i think it is the vibration which is causing the camshaft position sensor issue.i believe the sensor and camshaft are good.the sound i hear only on inclines is a faint thud.not sure what it is .doesnt sound like an outright backfire.doesnt sound like constant knocking.one sound one time.dull thud.feels like pulling.tranny is ok.dont thing its universal.doesnt bang real hard.but maybe its slightly bad .dont know.it makes more sense that knock sensor is going or bad.i believe that something is vibrating that camshaft.today it runs like i have a loose electrical connection but i have none.i wondering if a bad plug could cause this.i doubt it.starts fine runs kick [non-permissible content removed] after idle is relearned.tommorrow will tell.STAY TUNED!LOL

xwesx · April 2006

STAY TUNED!

Oh, I will! This is a great learning experience, even if it is at your expense. :sick:

Best of luck to you! Hopefully tomorrow will turn out to be a good day.

dchase1 · May 2006

put in knock sensor,flushed and changed coolant.engine runs much stronger,but still runs rough.service engine soon light came on again and gave codes for camshaft position sensor.never did change the plugs,so maybe ill do that next.maybe they got damaged from the old knock sensor.i dont know.it is running much stronger.cuts out a little while driving.the problem is still there but runs alittle better.do u think the spark plugs would affect the camshaft position sensor.starts rt up,idles fine only have problem when it is under load

xwesx · May 2006

Only if they were firing very poorly. Typically if there is an actual misfire, it will set a code in the system. I would have to read back through to remember what you have done so far, but if it runs good at idle I am not sure how a weak spark could be part of the problem. I have to think that there is something in the camshaft sensor circuit that is to blame for the residual problem, but beyond my previous suggestions I have no idea even where to start. Have you talked about the problems with an independent GM truck mechanic? Perhaps a good one would have experienced a similar problem in the past and could offer some additional advice..... :confuse:

At least it runs a little better, but it does not sound like the actual problem is found yet. :sick:

ajaz · May 2006

1995 Silverado, 350 engine (5.7 liter), automatic trans, throttle body injection.
Truck starts, but will not idle or run at any RPM. However, by continuously pumping the gas pedal the engine will keep running up to 3000 RPM. Installed new fuel filter with no change in problem.
Doesn't appear to be the fuel pump.
Any suggestions will be much appreciated.
thanks, AJAZ

aharper · May 2006

I have a '98 chevy Z71 with 160000 miles 5.7 Litre auto trans with overdrive. The problem is a shake when running at or above 55mph. It seems like it is when shifting into OD, it feels like it is stuck between gears and the RPM's vary 200-300 when this shake is going on. I was told to take the transmission fuse out and try it. I did this and the shaking stopped, I asked what does this prove and nobody had an answer. I don't know if the problem is in the transmission, torque converter, sensors, solenoids, etc. Please help me out somebody!!!!!!

cwrednox · May 2006

I bought a 1995 4x4, used of course, and two weeks after i bought it the 4x4 will not engage. I spent very little money for it and don't want to pay someone else to fix. It wouldn't make much sense. It runs fine other than that but if someone could get me started as to what i should look at to fix it that would be GREAT!

Thanks!

bassfearmee · June 2006

I just bought a 95 2500 series 4x4 and am familiar with the chevy truck, first thing you need to do is spend an entire afternoon going over all of the following items:

Pull and inspect every fuse, including fuses in the engine compartment fuse box......check to make sure that every slot where there should be a fuse has one....check that there are no blown fuses.....this might just be the cause of the 4x4 not engaging.

Next, check every wiring harness under the hood. There are a lot of them, make sure they are all plugged into something. Take each one and unplug it from whatever it is plugged into and take some wd40 and clean the connections, also have a box of qtips handy to wipe connections clean....

Next, get up underneath the vehicle and check the wiring harness to the transfer case (4x4 transmission). Make sure that the wiring harness is plugged into that transfer case. It's possible that the harness has a bad connection. Pull the plug and inspect for wear and corrosion. If it looks nasty then take some wd40 and spray the heck out of the inside of the plug. This a service tech at the dealer will charge you dearly for.

Next, visually inspect all of the front-end components for signs of wear, i.e. cv boots all torn up, sway bar unbolted, etc....

Prior to some point in the early 1990's GM used a thermal actuator switch to engage the front drive shaft. This little device would screw into the front axle from the top and it had two wires that protruded from it and they plugged into the actuator harness. The thermal switch caused a lot of problems for vehicles that were operated in cold climates because sometimes the actuator would not engage, leaving the vehicle stuck in the snow. In addition, the switch was prone to failure due to age, even if it had not been used all that much. So GM changed the actuator to a more durable electrical actuator that could be used in all post 1988 4x4's. Your vehicle may have an old thermal actuator. It is also possible that the prior owner may have had a problem with it at one point and had it replaced with another thermal. In either case, if the actuator is not working then the 4x4 will not engage, even if the transfer case is working properly......

Next, go buy a repair manual at your local parts store, it will save you a lot of money if you can do things yourself. Good luck!

aharper · June 2006

I have a '98 Chevy Z71 5.7L. This truck was running & starting great then it set for about a week without starting it. I tried to start it and it seemed like the battery was dead so I jumped started, it ran fine, after shutting it off it would not restart. I had altenator checked it's OK, had starter checked - OK, Changed batteries, cleaned and replaced all connections. It seems like the ground may be bad but ohm'd the cable - OK. Is there somewhere else I need to be looking? Please help.

yelir_19 · June 2006

I also have a starting problem, if I try to start it, a weird click will sound, sometimes it starts on the first try, other times it will take about 7 or 8 tries before i could get it to start. I have a new alternator and starter, it might be the starter. It is a 95 GMC K1500 SLE Z-71 with a 5.7(350).

lbenner · June 2006

I have a 96 chevrolet diesel pickup and I went to plug in my camper and the turn s and 4 ways and brake light know longer work, HELP PLEASE

xwesx · June 2006

Please clarify.... no longer work on the camper, or no longer work at all? If not at all, you might have a short either in the camper or accessory wiring that popped the truck fuse.

lbenner · June 2006

when I plug the camper into the truck to take the camper in for inspection, I went to check the trailer lights and found out that when I plug it in I turn on the turn s, and pushed on the brakes and no turn s and no brake lights on the truck even when I unhook the camper.

xwesx · June 2006

Oh, okay, then you must have a short in the line either on the camper or in the plug wires themselves that shorts when the circuit is connected. I would check the fuse(s) first to see if one or more blew. Not sure where they are located on that truck but typically under the driver side dash. Also, any slightly burnt smell or anything? I hope nothing melted if it was a short. It will be tough to track down, but if you can plug another accessory into your trailering port and it works with that, then your problem is in the camper's electrical.

lbenner · June 2006

I was told by the camper store that I need to clean the contacts first every year on the cable from the camper to the truck.

I cann't find the fuses. there is a fuse box under the hood but the closes thing i could find in there was a brake light rely. I looked under the dash and cann't find any fuse under there.

xwesx · June 2006

Here is a perhaps related post:

79customd, "HHR Electrical Problems" #12, 21 Apr 2006 8:32 am

Not sure if it will lend any help....

ghostrider66 · June 2006

Here is the story drivers I own a 05 Silverado with the LLY motor. I have had 3 injectors replaced in less than a year (2) #4, and (1)#2. They have also put (1) EGR valve in my Chevy. I have had the truck for just over a year and have 32000 miles on it. The dealers cannot tell me why my injectors are failing and they keep trying to blame it on my Edge Chip. I contacted Edge and they reassured me that the product I was running does not involve any modifications to the injectors and that the injectors are just simply failing on their own. I have been religious about changing the fuel filter and purchasing fuel from a good fuel source. I have also been running the FPPT Total Power additive in my fuel. (www.kennedydiesel.com) Question: What types of fuel filters are better? I have run the Hastings brand. Is anyone else having a problem with the injectors laying down on them?

KCRam · June 2006

You might want to look over our Diesel fuel economy and chips discussion.

kcram - Pickups Host

ndchevguy · June 2006

I have a 1996 chevy 1500, 5.7 vortec 4x4, It cranks over really well but wont start. I have replaced both the fuel pump and fuel filter, still wont start, Any sugestions? thanks Mark

dchase1 · June 2006

did you try the starter relay fuse in the underhood fuse box

ndchevguy · July 2006

I did check all the fuses. I took the top off and checked to see if the 2 fuel lines was getting fuel thru and they were. I put them back and I got it started and it worked fine. It sat over night and this morning same thing, wont start

Thanks dchase1 for your tip

magik · July 2006

Hey Guys, I live in the desert (I'm 16 and I don't know much so cut me slack) and the a/c on my 98 C/K 1500 just gave out, it blows air, however it's not cold so it doesnt really help at all. What do you guys suggest or what do you think it is?

ndchevguy · July 2006

When your truck is running with the air on, check under the hood and see if the clutch on the a/c is clicking on and off. If it is you will hear it. If it is and still not blowing hot air then you will prob need to add freon to it. Sometimes they just need a can or two, but it might have a leak and drained the system also. You can buy a cheap kit at kmart or walmart that has different adapters to put some in, if that doesnt work then you prob have a leak or need a new compressor. Im not very good at car stuff either but I hope this helps, goodluck Mark

xwesx · July 2006

If you have not checked under the hood yet, you might also just make sure that the belt did not break. Typically the A/C belt does not run any other accessories, so a "works great, oops, now it does not work at all" scenario could be a gone belt and you might not notice any other symptoms. In lieu of that, go back to suggestion 1.

fireman133 · July 2006

i just recently bought 98 z-71 the truck has a rough idle all the time had it put on a computer and could not find anything showing up on just wondering if any body else has had any problems with this. when you are driving down the road it seems to run smooth. thanks

snotz · July 2006

Jeez not many people respond with answers to these questions, usually the horn is a short under the steering pad but you probably have an air bag under there depending on the year so you need to have a qualified mechanic look at it. Sorry for the bad news. If no air bag (make sure) you need to know how to use an ohm meter and do some electronics diagnosis.

marshgator · July 2006

I just purchased this truck two months ago and am more than happy with it.

However, today on the way back from a weekend away, after about an hour and a half of having the cruise control on at about 85 the service engine soon light came on and the truck began to decelerate. It did not turn off. I pulled over and noticed no noises or rough idle or anything that would indicate a prob (all guages checked out fine). Upon accelerating the truck would not go higher than 65 mph or 2000 rpm. Is this limp home mode? It drove for about 45 minutes this way no problems and got me to the driveway. I went ahead and reset the computer (was this a bad idea?) and the light did not come on onupon restart. Any ideas?

burdell · July 2006

I recently purchsed a 1990 Silverado Z71 (350/4spd auto). The truck had set for some time before I bought it, however after a little work I had it running. I drove it around my place for a few days fine, no problems. Then I was driving it one evening and I stopped and began to put it reverse immediately the engine died, and wouldn't start again. I thought that I'd run out of gas or something so I put five gallons in it and she would still turn over but not start. I called my friend who has a tractor to pull me back to the house. I hooked the truck up, put it in neutral and pulled it about 30 feet and I tried it one more time and it cranked right up. Several days later I went out to drive it cranked it up backed up to the shop to pump the tires up. While pumping the tires up I let it sit in Park with the engine idling pretty as you please for about 5 minutes. I got back in the truck and put it in reverse and it died. I've pushed it about 30 feet in nuetral like I did last time just to see it I could get something but I got nothing. So I pulled a plug and I'm not getting any fire. So I replaced the control module in the distributor. Still no fire when I turn the engine over. Any Ideas?

xwesx · July 2006

Well, barring the coil, I had a similar thing with a car of mine (somewhat newer, so not sure if it applies to a '90). I *think* it was the mass airflow sensor that was causing the problem. Similar in that it caused no spark to the engine and I could literally crank it till the battery died with no luck. But, if I waited an indefinite amount of time, it would amazingly "reset" or something and it would fire right up like nothing at all was wrong. I have had no problems with that same symptom recurring since replacing the MAS. :confuse:

mg_927 · July 2006

I recently bought a 1996 chevrolet 1500 truck and everything worked fine until the other day I was driving it and the spedometer & odometer & light showing what gear you're in all went off. I changed the fuse but it automatically blew it. after changing the fuse a couple of times, i have no clue what's wrong. Any ideas?

chrish73 · July 2006

I am having the same problem with my truck. Just wondering if you have figured out your problem yet. The mechanics are telling me it is the electric fuel pump in the gas tank. My gut is telling me that is not it. I have replaced the fuel filter and before I spend a lot of money on the electric fuel pump I am wondering if I should be looking down a different avenue and if you got yours running what you did. Thanks, Chris

xwesx · July 2006

Seems like a simple way to check the fuel pump is to pull the fuel line and give the pump power. If fuel sprays out, it works! of course, route it to a controlled environment..... :surprise:

licougars · July 2006

Hi
How do you remove the rear interior door panels on a 3500? The door is stuck in the locked position and I need to get it open to see what is wrong.

Also the power door locking system does not work. It tries to, but it seems too weak to fully operate.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Steven Cameron

mattstark44 · July 2006

I have a 1993 Chevy Silverado w/ 5.7 My check engine light has been coming on and the truck wants to die at stoplights and is very sluggish when accelerating. The code is a 43. I went and purchased a knock sensor. Does anyone know where this is located and think this will fix my problem? Is there anything else that could be causing this problem? Thanks for your responses!!

ndchevguy · July 2006

Sorry Chris I was away for a few days. I replaced both the fuel pump and fuel filter still nothing. I have asked a few people no one seems to know. A guy I know that works at the parts store thinks it might be the fuel regulator. The part costs 70 bucks so I wanna make sure before I replace it. Would also help if I knew where it was located, ANYONE reading this happen to know? PLEASE Im just about ready to hire a hit man to blow her up lol. That other person is right on how to check your fuel pump. The two lines just unhook them and put a can under them, turn on your key so your fuel pump will pump, should spray pretty good so be carefull. If you do have to change it do it the smart way and take your box off, ALOT easier than dropping the fuel tank, believe me I found that out, good luck Mark

jarnone · July 2006

i have a 1999 chevy 2500. a few weeks ago this started. i would drive to the store and would come out to the truck and it would not run. it starts for a second then seems to run out of gas. i have changed the fuel pump and relay. and it still has happened. i dont think it has anything to do with spark because if i put a little fuel in the intake it will start and run until that fuel is spent. about four seconds or so. normaly i just walk away and come back a few hours latter and it will start. i dont think it has anything to do with heat though because it has done it first thing in the morning (first attempt to start) does anyone have any ideas??? i am new to this sight so if you have an idea will you also send me an e-mail as well as the post. thanks, joe arnone....burbank, ca

casper812 · August 2006

you probibly need to replace the brake light switch i had to on my 88 and afriends 90 it attaches to the brace pedal under the dash

jordanf · August 2006

Just remember you need three things to make your truck run, Fuel, Spark and Air. Make sure you have all three. As far as the fuel regulator goes see if you can borrow a gauge and see what psi your fuel pump is running. It could also be a problem in the throttle body.

theblur · August 2006

I have a 2002 K2500 suburb. 8.1 liter, it has started to have the problem above. suddenly it goes into reduced power mode (20 mph) which flashes up on the message screen and the engine light says service soon. When I turn engine off for 30 seconds it reboots to normal, but only for a short while. Repair shop replaced throttle switch but that did not work. Is it fuel filter, plugs or what? HELP?

chief14 · August 2006

I'm not sure what the code you refernece meands, but I had a similiar problem with my Chevy Monte Z-34. The car ran great on the highway, but would stall as I would let up off the gas at stop signs or when going around corners in town. In my case it was the O2 sensor. I had that replaced and it ran great.

ksliger · August 2006

I recently took out my Astro start command start and now my truck won't keep running. It will start then shut down right away. I reconnected the security bypass wire and was told that i had to reset the computer, after many different attempts from advice of different sources, it still won't run. Can anyone help.

rudyc · August 2006

I was driving just fine slammed brakes my car stalled would not start back up. I checked it out i was not getting any spark at all. so i changed my ign. coil, ign. mod., dist., and rotor. still no spark any suggestions. plz. help

rudyc · August 2006

1990 chevy silverado 2500 I was driving just fine slammed brakes my car stalled would not start back up. I checked it out i was not getting any spark at all. so i changed my ign. coil, ign. mod., dist., and rotor. still no spark any suggestions. plz. help

rudyc · August 2006

Hi how are you doing my name is rudy I have a 1990 chevy silverado 2500 i am not getting any spark i changed my coil, ign. module, dist., and rotor, still no spark. I was wondering if it might be the same problem you had. Do you know the location of mass air flow sensor.

xwesx · August 2006

Well, this one sounds rather iffy to me. It was "just fine" and then kaput? One hard brake and the whole thing is dead? That is a head scratcher. If the '90 has a MAS, it should be located within the air intake stream. I would be a little puzzled if this was the problem, but who knows? Maybe something just popped loose.

Chevy C/K Series Maintenance and Repair

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