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Chevy C/K Series Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • iplaybassiplaybass Member Posts: 8
    if you go into an autozone they have them cheap... 350.00 here
  • iplaybassiplaybass Member Posts: 8
    are you trying to change your 4 head light system to a 2 ? if you are we need to know if your 4 are Sealed head lights or are they composites? if they are not composite then you will have to replace your radiator support to go from a 4 to a 2 light system. along with grill and as far a the wiring I will look on my truck and tell you the color code to wire it up.
  • iplaybassiplaybass Member Posts: 8
    check your u joint
  • iplaybassiplaybass Member Posts: 8
    buy a rebuilt kit or go look at one they have and blow up view of the carb..
  • 1989c25001989c2500 Member Posts: 3
    Can anyone tell me the proper rotation of the water pump. I replaced the water pump and the thermostat with a fail safe and the temperature worked fine for about a week. Now it stay cool
    I know the water pump comes in two styles a clockwise and counter clockwise rotation. I purchased the clockwise rotation, I believe this is wrong. Can anyone help me.
  • mtlheadmtlhead Member Posts: 1
    i dont know wats wrong, if my truck its a k1500 and like it jsut died on me didnt over heat didnt like knock just died and i put a new battery in it it turns over sounds like it is goin to start but dosnt i put more oil in it cuz it was low and i dont know wat can it be
  • leftys7leftys7 Member Posts: 2
    I have a '99 K3500 dually cab and chassis that does not have the rear anti-sway bar, although all the mounting points are there. I've tried through several Chevy dealers to purchase one, the parts microfiche shows one, with the links. I ordered the links and the bar but the bar does not match the illustration and has no provision for the links. I assumed that Chevy mis-labeled the part but Chevrolet says that they can't provide the correct one without a VIN and my VIN is for a vehicle that is NOT so equipped. Does anyone have a cab and chassis dually with the rear anti-swaybar that can provide me with the VIN so I can give it to Chevrolet? Or, does anyone know of a wrecking yard with extensive inventory that might have a cab and chassis dually? (The chassis width is narrower than the pickups)

    I can't believe that Chevy can't get me the correct part.

    Thanks.
  • fbksrooferfbksroofer Member Posts: 2
    thanks for the reply. i do need to replace the core support because it was trashed also.I have comoosite haedlights.thanks for the help.
  • surething6surething6 Member Posts: 2
    I have very little knowledge of vehicle repairs. My truck will not turn over, I checked the battery and recharged it just in case, checked wiring, nothing loose, still will not start. My brother-in-law says it may be something with the starter or starter solinoid. does this make sense and where can I look to start the repairs?
  • greatshipgreatship Member Posts: 4
    i see u maybe ur altera is bad it sometime it cause it tricky either can be starter id u hear any that try run then it not starter somethin other hopeful i can give the best bec i have 1997 chvy 1500 ext cab v-8 :)
  • beesbobeesbo Member Posts: 1
    We bought a 95 1500 Silverado 4X4 and would like some opinions on the best repair manual. I just bought a Chilton manual and am frankly very disappointed in the quality, organization and content of the information. They seem to group so many years and types of vehicles together in one book that they don't give much info on any one vehicle. I have considered buying the Helm factory book but they are a bit pricey. Maybe you do get what you pay for. Are they Haynes books better than Chilton?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,788
    Are the Haynes books better than Chilton?

    I cannot speak for Chevy pickups specifically, but I have a Chilton manual for my 1969 Ford Econoline and had a Haynes manual for my '96 Subaru. The Haynes manual was not only far smaller, but much more detailed in every aspect other than, perhaps, basic maintenance.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • cooterbfdcooterbfd Member Posts: 2,770
    If you turn the key and nothing happens, but you have all the lights on the dash, it may be the neutral safety switch. This kepps the vehicle from being started in gear. Try setting the emergency brake, then turn the ignition on, shift it into Neutral, and see if it starts. If it does, put it in park and try it again in park (sometimes, if it isn't fully in park, it wont turn over either, as the switch has been activated). If it won't start then, the switch may be bad. ;)
  • mausermauser Member Posts: 3
    When turning in a hard circular turn, left or right, my 1997 Chevy Silverado, Short Wheel Base, 5.7L V-8, 147,000 miles, makes hard, regular, thumping sounds as if runing over large stones. Any advise on what the problem is would be greatly appreciated.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,788
    Is this pickup a 4WD?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • mausermauser Member Posts: 3
    No, not a four-wheel drive. I failed to say that it runs smooth when on highway.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,788
    Well, my first thought then is that you have a set of wheel bearings on one of the wheels that is going bad on you. In the beginning, you will notice "binding" sounds when sharply turning, then it will get worse such that you notice the sounds when you turn less and less until it makes the noise all the time. Any noise when you sharply apply the brakes? That situation also adds additional stress on the bearings.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • mausermauser Member Posts: 3
    Coffee-Shop talk revealed source of problem. A friend said that it could be that in a hard, sharp, slow turn as I was doing in the culdasac at my home, the front tire was slipping, skiping or otherwise sliding in the small amount of gravel in the culdasac. He said he had a truck to do the same thing. I took it to a good front-end/tire place where they said the same thing, put it on the front-end machine, carefully inspected ball joints, tie rod ends, etc., and said all was good and tight and everything ok. Just thought I'd pass this along as I'm nearly age 70 and this is the first I've ever heard of this problem. I hope this helps others.
  • gbrewergbrewer Member Posts: 7
    I had a 96 It was equiped with an antitheft device that caused the same problem regularly. Mine was straight under the steering wheel. Sometimes they have a key and sometimes a switch. I cut the wiring and rewired it so I didn't need the key anymore. After that I didn't have anymore problems. If someone removed the device before you got it, the wires may be loose.
  • kenndogkenndog Member Posts: 1
    If anyone knows where this is please let me know a diagram or pic would be great thanks
  • hbibb3hbibb3 Member Posts: 2
  • hbibb3hbibb3 Member Posts: 2
    I'm currently working on putting a rebuilt engine, the stock 4.3L V6, back in this truck. I'm having a problem getting the brackets back on the engine because this is my first time doing this sort of thing and I failed to document them properly when they were originally in the truck.

    I was wondering if anyone would have a diagram or know where I could get information regarding the brackets to hold on all the pumps and things of that nature, I know how some of them go together but I'm confused about two or three.

    I appreciate the help,

    Henry Bibb
  • armywife0483armywife0483 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 86 Chevy K10 pick up that needs a new transmission in it. I have found a "junk" truck but its 2wd...My question is can i used a 350 transmission out of a 1987 chevy in a 4wd 1986 chevy with out any major alterations?
  • spoonyracingspoonyracing Member Posts: 2
  • spoonyracingspoonyracing Member Posts: 2
    i own a 1987 gmc jimmy 5.7 350 v8 full size. it all starts out fine but 20 minutes into my ride it begins to cut out on me when i give it gas. i have to baby it to keep it going. i tried using STP Injecter cleaner but it didnt work. someone please help me!
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,788
    Almost sounds like a distributor problem to me. Is it FI or carb?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,788
    If the transfer case is a separate unit from the transmission, then there should be no compatibility problems.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • taker442taker442 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 90 Chevy Scottsdale 1500. 130000 miles
    It is running a 350 with throttle body injection.
    One day just quit. Brought it home and it started, lot of black smoke. Found 2 codes on the computer O2 sensor (found broke) and temp switch (below -27 for 30 seconds at start-up).
    Changed the 02 sensor, gave a complete tune-up.(plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, air filter) Has never had a tune-up since I have owned it, so it was due.
    Tried to start, would not start. Thought may need some gas to prime the fuel filter (????) put some into the throttle body after a few tries it started.
    Pulled it out of the barn and let it warm up.
    Turned it off. Would not restart. After a few times it finally started. RUN GREAT!. Took it for a ride, got down the street and it died again. Restarted it would only run full throttle with no RPM's. After about 3 or 4 minutes of running that way I let it stall out. Got out of the truck and found the muffler RED hot (glowing).
    Thought it to be a plugged cat. converter. Cut the cat. out. No change can not restart at all. It has good spark, fuel coming Thur the injectors and cranks fine.
    The only code is 15 (temp below -27 degrees for more than 30 seconds)
    I do not know how to reset that code.
    Any help would be great.

    Also now put it a ignition module and still nothing

    Thank you

    Todd
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,788
    Whew.... sounds like it is running rich..... REALLY rich. Does it have an airflow sensor to regulate the air mixture? Or, are there manual adjustments for the mixture? I have not played with TBI, so I cannot be any help there, but I would look at any temp, airflow, and/or fuel flow sensors because the problem is not a lack of fuel, but too much.

    As for starting, have you tried shutting off fuel flow (press pedal all the way to the floor) to see if it helps the rig start sooner? It might just be starved of air, but if you are getting all that unburnt fuel into your exhaust system, I would not recommend driving it very far anyway.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • wynkmanwynkman Member Posts: 2
    I have a well used 84 K20. When I pull the headlight switch, the lights come on normally, but the gauges immediately begin falling to the bottom of the scale(as if the ignition switch was off) and the Temp gauge goes to the high side of scale. The Turn signal indicators in-dash stay solid on. The alternator has been bench checked twice by different shops and once in the truck. I have verified proper voltage output from cold start to operating temperature, always between 14.3v to 14.7v. Gauges behave the same way if I turn on the wipers. The radio and blower fan have no effect and they operate normally. This problem is about a week old. The alternator is about a year old, battery cables about 5 moths old.
    Any tips?
  • azvmaxazvmax Member Posts: 2
    I had an 87 GMC Jimmy, had to replace the gas tank due to the baffles in the tank disintigrating.
    They would clog the pump/filter, and make the truck starve for fuel.
    After sitting, some of the pieces would flow back into the tank, allowing it to run good for a while until they were sucked back up again.
    Good Luck
  • azvmaxazvmax Member Posts: 2
    Almost anytime lights/gauges misbehave, it's a ground problem.
    I don't know if you've done anything recently and left a ground wire off, if it's something that has just corroded to the point of not working, or if it's the actual headlight switch itself that contains a ground path.
    A look under the dash and headlight switch may reveal something, hopefully something loose!
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,788
    Oh, you know, I had a coworker with an '85 1/2-ton Silverado that had the same problem. His actually got so bad that the tank started leaking fuel, but prior to that he did note that it occasionally cut out on him and would mysteriously go away. As his noting of those two things were in completely different conversations, I never put them together.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • wynkmanwynkman Member Posts: 2
    I just took it to a shop and their mechanic found a bad ground wire and also replaced a butt-connector behind the Instrument cluster. Everything works, and the Wipers sweep at a normal speed, something I had lived with for several years.
  • juliozaldivarjuliozaldivar Member Posts: 1
    MY 99 2500 ck DIESEL REMOTE DOOR LOCKS DONT WORK ABOVE 70degres,UNDER 70 THEY WORK FINE,NOBODY KNOWS WHY>I NEED HELP!!
  • johndawkinsjohndawkins Member Posts: 2
    ok, i have a 90' K15 4x4 with a 305 TBI 5 spd. and a little while ago i had put a new hooker muffler on, and it has a 3" inlet w/ dual 2 1/2" outlets. ok... no problems. Then about three weeks ago i bought a set of flowtech shorties and put them on. had a little trouble getting them to seal perfectly but they're fine now. But now since i put them on i have noticed a big change in performance like i don't have as much low end power and it's just not running very good. I'm a college student and am pretty broke, but any help at all would be better than what i am now!!!
  • johndawkinsjohndawkins Member Posts: 2
    another thing is that when i was putting the headers in, i broke one of the smog tube that goes into the header/manifold so i just removed all that stuff but still have the pump on the truck. when i unplugged my O2 sensor to see if that might be the prob, all that happened was my check engine light came on but made no difference performance wise. I NEED HELP BIG TIME!!!!!!
  • sosbombsosbomb Member Posts: 1
    I have a 5.7 L 350 on a 98 C1500. I'm trying to locate the Cam Position Sensor. Can anyone tell me where this is? Thanks!
  • mitcht2005mitcht2005 Member Posts: 2
    i gotta 78 chevy k10 4x4, motor has been rebuilt to performance, its a 5.7 350 bored 30over, bigger cam, crank alluminum valves/ pistons, heads ported and polished, etc. well i recently replaced the head and exhuast gaskets with copper and used high temp rvt around the water jets like directed its been about 3 months ago everything was great then suddenly i started loosing coolant dont know where though , its not going out the exhuast , or into the oil or onto the ground but i can fill the radiator a half to a full gallon of coolant everytime after the truck runs for no more then an hour enough to heat it up good. i changed the thermostat and housing also changed the water pump and still the same thing and the radiator cap, the overflow jug stays in the same place on the cold level never changes never had this untill after to copper was used i also checked to see if the heads needed retorque and they were fine right at 65ftlbs the freeze plugs all look dry im running out of ideas. any thoughts would help greatly
  • greatshipgreatship Member Posts: 4
    u need to check min maybe ur min is get bad and that how leak to in oil either ur frezee plug been leak slow it how happen to many
  • mitcht2005mitcht2005 Member Posts: 2
    sorry man but i cant understand your message
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    the Cam position sensor is on the distributor on your engine.
    It is basically the electronics of your distributor.
    On the older electronic distributors, it would have been called the pickup module.
  • november1november1 Member Posts: 2
    i have a chevy truck kept losing anti-freeze or about 2 yrs it leaked slow i eventully found a hair line crack in radiator it would open up when rad got hot when it was cold wouldnt leak i had to take mine rad out it was in front hope this helps ya
  • november1november1 Member Posts: 2
    i have a chevy 1500 with throttle body injection my vapor canister keeps filling up with gas and floods the throttle body when i take gas cap off there is way to much suction replaced gas cap, checked return line,empty vap cannister and it still does it it idles good when i give it the gas it floods right out and lots of black smoke comes out of exhaust garage cant fig it out i'm at a lost
  • dmrobertsondmrobertson Member Posts: 5
    The driver side door on my 2000 year 2500 series pickup is sagging. The pins need to be replaced. I have done this on other doors but a spring is in the way on this vehicle and it looks like I may need to un-bolt the door to change the hindge pins. Any suggestions?
  • dmrobertsondmrobertson Member Posts: 5
    Mine did the same thing. I had to change the fuel pump. It is loctaed in the fuel tank. You can drain the fuel out of the tank and drop the tank to take the old pump out and replace it. See a Haynes manual to see how to do this or email me at dmrobertsn@aol.com
  • scurley1scurley1 Member Posts: 1
    1990 GMC K-2500, 350ci, Manual Trans, with about 170K miles. Electronic spark control (ESC) appears not to be working. After tune up, disconnected ESC per manual in order to adjust timing. It lots of movement of distributor to get to spec of TDC. Ran fine, but when re-connecting ESC and then trying to re-start, it backfires and won't run. I've replaced ESC, Knock Sensor, MAP sensor and all new tune up parts. Distributor seems intact. It'll idle fine when bypassing ESC. Also, if starting with bypassed, then connecting ESC while still running, it'll keep running, but timing will not advance. Anyone with any ideas?
  • mworkmanmworkman Member Posts: 3
    My truck will not start after a rain or during high humidity...it cranks and turns over but will not start.. I've changed the distributor/rotar (looked fine) after checking it for cracks..none found...any suggestions?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,788
    Hmmm... maybe an airflow sensor needs cleaning? If they get dirty, they can become sensitive to humidity.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • 2500hdgsxr002500hdgsxr00 Member Posts: 1
    As far as the hypertech goes they will take a .5 second off of 1/4mile times. The truck is definitely stronger than stock with the programmer. The lag you are feeling on take off is torque management. It can be deleted by certain programmers. The hypertech is not one of them so the lag is still there just not as noticeable. The diablo programmers do remove it and i wish i knew that when i bought my hypertech.
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