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Chevy C/K Series Maintenance and Repair

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  • jetdog1985jetdog1985 Member Posts: 1
    :confuse: my truck is a 1998 3500 5.7 vortec and at a certian rpm range the truck sputers while driving. checked all plugs and wires all good and new i am lost and it will not kick a light on. i need help!!!!!
  • 04cobra104cobra1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a '91 Silverado and I want to put a 5.3L out of a '00 Silverado into it. My question is will the motor mounts match up or do they need fabricating?
  • brownbmbrownbm Member Posts: 1
    I have installed a K&N cold air intake to my chevy about a week ago, everything was fine, then I installed a throttle body spacer a couple of days ago, now when i put it in park and it is idleing it runs rough almost missing, what can I do? would it help to adjust the throttle cable?? it is a little loose where as before the spacer it was tight. the engine size is a 6.0,
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    Take the spacer out and put it back the way it was.
    What could possibly possess you to put a spacer in?
    What did you think it was gonna gain you?

    Today's vehicles get really irritated when you go mucking around with them. So much that the computer starts to have fits.

    The throttle cable has nothing to do with the idle. That is controlled by the computer. You have messed with the air intake and changed what the computer is reading.
  • blissfulblissful Member Posts: 84
    Have a high mileage '90 LB PU that is used lightly now. Just back from camping trip at Mt. Hood this last weekend. Parked in drive, then went to move it again within 30 minutes and could not get clutch to engage. Clutch pedal does go to floor, but if I try to move the shifter, it just grinds, no matter what gear. If I stop the engine, put the shifter in gear, then start it up, it lurches forward, even though clutch is depressed.
    There is a clutch cyl, and I cannot determine exactly what kind of linkage goes from pedal to clutch cyl. Can this be adjusted? There is still proper amt of fluid in reservoir.

    Previously, and intermittently, there has been a failure to start which MAY have been related (i.e. the engine won't turn over if the clutch is not fully depressed; sometimes, even if the clutch IS fully depressed, it won't start, but the "fix" seems to be to open the hood and slam it shut again, suggesting that SOMETHING, SOMEWHERE is loose, or just on the verge of not being quite right.)

    Suggestions as to cause of problem? Is this something I can repair myself, or does it require special tools, lots of strength, or lots of time?

    Thanks!
    :sick:
  • blissfulblissful Member Posts: 84
    Any ideas? Truck runs great, but whenever I drive, there is a cyclical-sounding squeaking that I hear on the left side. It does not appear to be related to the engine per se, and almost sounds as if it is a wheel bearing or something, but if it is, I'd think that the wheel would have collapsed long ago! Of course, I have only put about 2000 miles on the truck in 5 years- mostly it is used to haul stuff.

    Appreciate any thoughts/suggestions re: diagnosing and fixing this!
    :confuse:
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,790
    You are probably on the right track with this. Even with light use, the grease will continue to age and lose effectiveness. If it is only a squeak you hear and not a grinding sound, it may be that the bearings only need to be repacked. Before you take the wheels off, drive around a bit (assuming you fix the previous problem!) and drag your brakes to scour the disc surfaces. Once the wheels are off, clean up your disc brakes with some cleaner and see if that helps as well. If the truck is stored outside, you may be getting some corrosion on the disc surfaces.

    Even with those low miles, have you kept the joints (tie rods, control arm bushings, etc) lubed regularly?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,790
    Now, I am not real sure about this because I have not had many clutch problems (and none with vehicles even remotely as new as a '90). But, since it happened soon after a drive, perhaps your throwout bearing is seized up. If there is much play in the linkages, you may be able to push the clutch pedal down anyway, but the forks are not moving the bearing which, in turn, is not disengaging the transmission. If that is the problem, it will require the transmission be dropped to access and replace the clutch, etc. I would get more input on this one before proceeding with that, though. :blush:

    As for the no-start, check your battery cables, solenoid, and cable to the starter to make sure none are corroded or have slightly loose connections. This can easily result in a periodic and "random" no start.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • blissfulblissful Member Posts: 84
    Thank you for both of those helpful recommendations! I really appreciate your quick response! Hmmm- What causes throw out bearings to seize? Inadequate lubrication? age? heat?
    I have to say there wasn't a lot of shifting going on during the drive- mostly freeway/highway, although that may be neither here nor there. The truck does have about 270K miles on it, and while the engine has been rebuilt, I do not know about the tranny in its former life. Clutch has always felt solid, though- no hint of problem. Your assessment may be right on- the clutch feels as if there is a little less resistance than formerly, but nothing like blocked hydraulics, which would feel hard.

    I guess I'm pretty much trying to decide whether to have it towed somewhere to get fixed, or if there is anything else I can do to deduce the true nature of the problem. I like to be pretty sure of the issue before presenting to the mechanic- forewarned is forearmed, as they say!

    Is it possible that whacking on the tranny case with a hammer might release the throwout bearing, now that it has cooled down? that would be by way of diagnosis, of course, not the permanent solution!

    Cheers!
    J
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,790
    Normally there is an access cover on the bottom of the transmission's bell housing. You might be able to shine a light in there and see the components to note if anything is obviously wrong. If the bearing is seized, you should definitely see it. Heat would cause the seizure, and the excess heat likely due to some sort of failure in the bearing such as wear. It would normally "warn" you first though. So, if there was no whining noises, rattly sounds, etc., coming from the vehicle that disappeared with a press of the clutch, it may not be the bearing. It could also be a bent shift fork or some other problem, though.

    The only time I had experience with this is when I helped a friend install a Chevy 305 in a '55 Willy's wagon. The truck still had the original transmission, and we used an adapter to mate the tranny to the engine. The company that machined the adapter was off just a tiny bit on the specs. As a result, the alignment was a bit off on the transmission shaft, even though it was close enough for government work. Well, just like gov't work, the bearing took extra heat due to the misalignment and eventually the aluminum bearing transferred material to the tranny shaft and froze up. Not good for his truck. It was not a happy evening when we tore it apart again and then put it together a second time. Happily, the adapter manufacturer provided the replacement part free of charge. They did not pay for our wasted hours, though, or for my ears after listening to my friend vent his frustration every 5-10 minutes. :D

    As for taking it to a mechanic, if you have a place close by, you should be able to get the truck started in 1st gear (I know my '69 Chevy will start in 1st or 2nd, no clutch needed!). You can lurch it out of the driveway in reverse just by using the starter, then limp your way to the shop. I suppose AAA would come in handy as well.

    Hopefully someone else will chime in with a suggestion as to the nature of your problem. Folks do respond here, but it tends to be sporadic as this particular topic is only sparsely visited. You can try other topics within the Chevy Pickups forum, though. Oddly, this is the only topic I frequent as almost none of the topics come close to my antique truck.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • blissfulblissful Member Posts: 84
    I'll have a look underneath again on the weekend. Fortunately, I backed it in to the driveway, and it will indeed start up in 2nd, so I could try crashboxing it down the road :shades:

    At least I feel I have a starting off point. I'm also thinking I'll head down to the local repository of auto manuals and see if I can get a visual on the clutch linkage so that I understand better where the other possibilities you mentioned lie.

    This truck has been so good that it WILL be fixed! Thanks again!!!

    J
  • flh69flh69 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1990 K2500 Chevy pickup. I installed a 4x4 Posi-Lock when the original locking device went bad several years ago. Just recently my light came on indicating the axles were locked but I did not have the Posi-Lock engaged. I checked the wires and can find nothing wrong. Is there a switch somewhere that may be malfunctioning? The Posi-Lock is working ok it’s just that the light stays on all of the time.
  • mworkmanmworkman Member Posts: 3
    Problem solved....dogear was broken off on the distributor cap and water was getting in the distributor. Had to change the distributor, oil,radiator fluids and gasket. wow...not cheap.
  • naturbnklrnaturbnklr Member Posts: 3
    Daily driver/work truck turned key no lights buzzers fan nothing. Horn and headlights fine. Checked Battery with digital diagnostic 100% 13.5V. Replaced ignition switch, neutral safety switch, have power to starter, solenoid pulls when jumpered, starter engages, engine turns (strong) where do I go from here
  • naturbnklrnaturbnklr Member Posts: 3
    Daily driver/work truck turned key no lights buzzers fan nothing. Horn and headlights fine. Checked Battery with digital diagnostic 100% 13.5V. Replaced ignition switch, neutral safety switch, have power to starter, solenoid pulls when jumpered, starter engages, engine turns (strong) where do I go from here
  • naturbnklrnaturbnklr Member Posts: 3
  • rob14521rob14521 Member Posts: 2
  • rob14521rob14521 Member Posts: 2
    Hello, my son just purchased a 1979 with 4wd. It did not come with an owners manual. My question is where or what postion should the 4wd shift be in for normal driving. what is the order for locking the hubs... Any help would be appreciated, I do not want him driving it in the wron gear. you can email me directly ar
    robertsonje@comcast.net

    Thanks
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    on regular driving, the 4wd should be in 2 hi with both front hub in the UNLOCK position.

    When using the 4wd, lock both hubs, shift to Neutral with the transmission gear select and shift to 4 hi or 4 low.
    Then engage the transmission.

    When shifting out of 4wd, shift the transmission to neutral, then shift the 4wd lever to 2 hi and then unlock the hubs. Back the vehicle up shortly to make sure the hubs disengage and then drive normally.
  • schierschier Member Posts: 1
    I was wondering if anyone had advice on how to fix electric locks and widows I can contol three of the windows from the driver side but the locks I have to do all by hand and my passengers can not contol anything. if anyone has any advice that would be great.
  • juggernaut2874juggernaut2874 Member Posts: 2
    I've "inherited" a 91 5.7L manual 1500 with 215,000 miles recently. The engine and most parts were covered in caked on grease and old oil. I cleaned it off, flushed the engine and changed the oil/filter, replaced the PCV valve, thermostat, and air filter. Noticed when I started it up that the oil pressure will be at 30psi at idle and then max out over 60psi when I step on the gas. I also will pop the PCV valve out of the valve cover doing this which is why, I think, the engine was covered in old oil. No oil leaks observed yet and not blowing any blue or white smoke out of the tailpipes.
    Anyone know what is causing the high oil pressure and excessive blow by gases?
  • wil24bwil24b Member Posts: 1
    my 86 chevy truck has duel tanks once opperated by mechanical pump. the new 454 block doesnt allow me to stay mechanical so need to go electric. what will i need to acomplish this task
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,790
    Is this a carbureted engine? My guess is the easiest way to go would be an in-line electric fuel pump and a regulator. But, depending on the application and/or pump, the pressure regulator may not be necessary. I think it would be in your best interest to talk with a professional mechanic or a performance shop, again, depending on your intended application.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • dalebarrondalebarron Member Posts: 1
    1999 chevy 4x4 locks up in park. any ideas?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,790
    Likely a problem with the shift interlock. That vehicle will have a requirement that you must press the brake pedal in order to shift out of park. If the switch/sensor is defective, the interlock will not release.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • luvnchevyluvnchevy Member Posts: 1
    I am contemplating a purchase of an older work truck and would like to know if anyone knows the engine life of the 1995 2500 cheyenne 5.7 liter engine. It is a rear wheel drive. Also I was wondering if I should be aware of any problems in the 100000 mile mark.
  • juggernaut2874juggernaut2874 Member Posts: 2
    Seems to have a cracked piston, bad rings, or a hole in the piston. I'll need to tear the engine down but it'll probably be easier to buy a rebuilt short block.
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    Well, as with any vehicle with lots of miles, there is a ton of things that can be a problem.
    Check the vehicle out pretty well. Pay special attention for leaks on the engine, color of the oils, the condition of the radiator, see what the coolant looks like and make sure that the differential yoke has no up and down movement.

    I have a 93 Silverado and have 270,000 miles on the original engine.
    I've had to replace the radiator, rear end, heater core and water pump.
    If the cooling system was taken care of, you may not have any problems with it.

    As for repairs on that truck, with exception of the automatic transmission, most repairs can be relatively inexpensive, compared to some newer vehicles.
  • gethorngethorn Member Posts: 1
    i just got this truck i was used as a plow truck it has eletric locks i dont now anything about this how do you lock it in i put in 4 hi or lo and get the back tires to spin on ice and the front never spin is there a switck yes this has the 6.2d auto trany no switch on the dash for 4x4 the old truck had manual locks i have no book i just put all the ball joints in this myself so i can do repair work
  • 86chevc1086chevc10 Member Posts: 1
    I drive an 86 C10. the engine brifly shuts off when the rpm are between 2500 and 3500. if you hammer it is fine and the same goes for low rpm's. i know for sure i need a water pump, that is on the way. could this be related? it was just purchased 4 weeks ago, new cap/rotor, plugs, pcv. could it perhaps be the fuel filter? any help would be appreciated
  • a_rob497a_rob497 Member Posts: 1
    hey, i have a 76 chevy shortbed stepside with a 350 in it. i was revving the engine up the other day i it started knocking, i was told it was prob the lifters. i replaced them and cleaned up the motor a bit but when i put it back together and started it the knocking was still there. any ideas? someone told me it could be because the rocker arms arent torqued right.
  • whitey73whitey73 Member Posts: 1
    I KEEP GETTING THE CODE 1345 . TIMEING HOW DO I SET THE TIMEING.ON 1997 CK 2500 ?
  • lorddrago1lorddrago1 Member Posts: 19
    K.O My Chevy C 2500 has 66psi fuel pressure, good compression, and spark on all plugs but still wont start??? :lemon:
  • tbin0314tbin0314 Member Posts: 1
    What transfer case is on an 81 K10. Is it all time 4 wheel drive or not?
  • califasramsfancalifasramsfan Member Posts: 31
    The horn quit working on my 05 Chevy D/A. I have checked the fuse located in the fuse box under the hood, next to the driver side battery. The 15 amp fuse was good as well as the horn relay mounted next to the fuse. Has anyone else had a similar problem? What is the fix and how much will it cost to repair?
    thanks,
    Califasramsfan. :shades:
  • tex64tex64 Member Posts: 1
    hey im have a problem i just did a tune up on my truck figuring it would stop the chuggin and it did for a lil while but now everytime i push the gas pedal down about lil more then 1/2 way its starts shaking and goin crazy and i cant figure out what it is. can anyone give me an idea of why its doin this?
  • allyhandra07allyhandra07 Member Posts: 1
    HELP!! My step dad has given me his 1995 chevy. but of course it came with a problem. The alarm system engages itself and the hazard lights on the truck flast constantly. when the alarm is engaged I cant turn the truck on or anything. I dont have the clicker thing to turn the alarm off and the constant hazard ligths are causing the battery to die. I have removed the fuse for all the lights in the truck but sure enough they keep on flashing. I was wondering if anyone has any idea on how to disarm the alarm or a wiring diagram for the truck.. any help is much appreciated... Thanks.. :cry:
  • wjr50wjr50 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Chevy C1500 W/T automatic. It starts fine when I first start it & it runs smoothly. When I put it in gear & move several feet, the first couple of times it shuts completely down...no lights, nothing..everything dead. I wait about a minute or 2 it will start right back up again, lights & all. After several times of completely shutting down & get it going again...I am then able to move it around in our drive way with no problem (forwards & reverse). I haven't notice it completely shutting down in reverse though come to think of it. Any suggestions? & I haven't driven it down the road since this started..kind of affraid to.
  • chevyman6667chevyman6667 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 k 2500 with 5.7 that will not start sounds like the timing is advanced win I try to start. would like to know if there if some electronic control that would go bad that would do this or if they are known to jump time. It has 146000 mile on truck
  • wg61260wg61260 Member Posts: 1
    i have a '92 silverado, 4.3 .I am getting a code of 22,33, 45...all these things are brand new . truck starts but will not accelerate with tps unplugged and map clamped off...with tps and map connected will not stay running
  • herlihyherlihy Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I am now wondering if you located the fuel guage problem I too have the same one.
    Thanks
    Jim_h_m_m@yahoo.com
  • herlihyherlihy Member Posts: 2
    I am trying to help out a pal with a 1988 chevy truck with duel tanks and trying to identify why the thanks switch but the guage stay at 1/4 tank in either position, before I looked at it the dash switch and transfer valve were changed, I can make the guage go to full in either position by grounding the sensor line at the tank the problem is grounding either will work no matter what position the switch is in. its the early fuel injection system so I done want to change the float assemblys unless Im sure and I have removed and tested the guage
    Thanks
    Jim
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