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Comments
The only time I get system faults are on startup on a cold morning at Zero or below.
Just back from Florida and no problems.
Wonder where LR tested for colder climes?
Same here - it always happens around zero - Celcius, i.e. 32F. I think the computer has cold start problems. I bet it won't do this in summer - but that does not help much: especially in winter it has to be reliable.
Having said that: this seems to be a pattern, so I am sure they will find a fix.
Fully loaded, cooler box and all.
Asking 3k extra for DV and close to 2k extra for running boards!
MSRP of close to 60K
- 15.9 mpg
- 44.9 mph
- 264 miles
Odo:
- 265.5 miles
Filled up the tank with 17.41 gallons, so by measuring this way, I calculate 15.25mpg... so pretty close to trip computer.
I have some pics of where I was on the freeway, cruising 65mph, and the trip computer was reporting 20.0 mpg.
There you go.
OK, that sounds very plausible. And in that case a fix, either in software or in hardware (or in a combination thereof), is surely possible. I look forward to it.
But one thing I note is that both times in my case it has been in "cold, but not VERY cold weather". It is often minus 20 Celcius in Ontario. The error has not happened to me in those cold temperatures, but only around freezing, much warmer.
Thinking it over, I think condensation, but then the second start would not work. Your theory still sounds likely.
Odd: after my last trip to the dealer's I have seen this too! I think this is expected behaviour (it used to be way too bright at night). But yes, it appears a bit inconsistent.
Has your car been to the dealer's recently?
Michael
The trouble with this theory is that the voltage would likely be even lower on the second start-up, since you've already stressed the battery with the first.
Can you please send me the details on the setup screen. My info is on profile
TIA,
TD4
Has your wiper been fixed?
My new/replacement LR3 is doing this, never had a problem on the first one. Also, it seems that the rear lift-gate takes some force to close properly.
Thanks
Bill
It seem that there are two “bad” alternatives to connect it directly to the Battery.
1. Throw the firewall and all the way under the doors frame.
2. Below the car and try to find a way up throw the rear wing.
Does anyone have better idea or any other tips?
If you really need to have it operating without the engine running I'd consider a second battery (deep cycle) installed with an isolator.
Has your wiper been fixed?
My new/replacement LR3 is doing this, never had a problem on the first one. Also, it seems that the rear lift-gate takes some force to close properly.
I fixed it myself with some oil. As for the lift gate, it depends whether the car is open or closed. Use some force when the car is otherwise closed.
Wonder if you guys had tried out the wiper on the front windshield. Since I live in CA (sunny all the time) I only got to try that out recently. And I have found it is making quite a loud noice from the rubber rubbing the glass even when rain was heavy. Since my car is still in the shop for HDC and other fix, I have asked the dealer to look at the wiper as well.
Is this normal? please advise your comment.
I'm thinking of getting the mudflaps, side door molding and a cargo tray.
The only way to bypass the problem is to bypass the intermittent feature. The next time I go in for service I plan to have the dealer look at it. Its not a big problem but for this kind of $$$ they should work perfectly.
1) Audio system locked out and wouldn't work at all. Stopped and removed key & retired several times but still failed. NAV screen dead. Drove to the dealer immediately as I was nearby. Parked, discussed with tech. Put key in ignition. Everything worked again!!! Grrr....
2) Parked at night. Got in vehicle, key in & everything starts as usual (lights/wipers etc as it was raining). Turned ignition and there was a loud click and total power cut-off. Everything. After several retries I left it for a minute or so whereupon the damn thing started as if nothing had happened.
3) Car parked in garage unlocked. Got in an put key in ignition - everything powers up as expected. Turn ignition key - nothing, nada, zilch!!! The red led on the left that flashes for the alarm being armed is still flashing as if the key isn't in the ignition or the security system is active. I press the remote to unlock several times. Still doesn't work. I lock/unlock multiple times. Still doesn't work. I ponder which hammer to attack the LR3 with in rage and try again. It starts flawlessly as if nothing had happened.
I also have a coolant level warning that isn't. LR ordered a new expansion tank and sensor as apparently it isn't registering correctly.
So, I'm seeing a trend here ... I'm hoping all of my previous LR & RR prejudices are going to be proved wrong but I'm sensing that LR still have some of the quality/design issues that made me avoid them in the past in favor of BMW.
Now what's really annoying me at the moment is just how able this thing is ... this is from it's maiden 20 mile round-trip through deep virgin snow.
So far so good, almost at the magic 500 miles so I can start really driving it.
- Water getting into wiring looms etc - this is potentially a big issue as it is likely to hurt us all later (when warranty is over). I've had my wiring loom replaced and "super-insulated with grease". How long will that hold up??
- Computer/startup problems. Much less problematic as these can probably be solved mainly with software fixes. Also, you can avoid these issues: turn the key part of the way, until the lights come on; then wait a few seconds until starting. That appears to make a difference.
-Michael
Where is this wiring loom, why are the connectors so exposed to the weather???
Just picked up my car from the dealer this morning (HDC and misc fixes). Feeling happy and all, try not to think about the unpleasant experiences we had since it reached 500 miles mark.
I am pretty optimistic about the fix this time as the dealer had it for a week and did a lot of test drive and ran the EUC tests of the car.
Will update again.
Where is this wiring loom, why are the connectors so exposed to the weather???
Agreed - this is potentially a big issue. But all we need LR to do is to fix it, then retroactively apply that fix to existing trucks (rather than just apply grease). Stay tuned... I am sure it is within LR's abilities to fix this and prevent reoccurance, and I believe that they are honest and aboveboard. So I await a new wiring loom design.
I had my issue after torrential rain on the wa yback from Texas. Who else has driven through heavy, torrential, 8 hour long rain in th elast few months? Have you experienced issues with random suspension failures or anything else electronic since?
--Michael
There were a few hours heavy raining during the trip to and back from Orlando before the new year. On the report it said moiseture got into wire loom through drainage from roof. Technicians rearranged the drainage, changed wire and greased up the area.
A more moisture resistent design of wire loom is necessary for long term good.
The two major failures were either in or after significant rain. However, I've been through snow, deep water, mud etc but nothing happened after those trips. The good news is that the dealer is treating it as a safety issue - I emphasised that I use the LR3 to go off into the wilderness and not to just pick up lattes or the school run - if it fails, I'm stuck for a while.
Perhaps Lucas, the Prince of Darkness' ghost is still with us?
Thanks for the info I will try the product.
Intermittently Randomly Variable Rain Sensing Sometimes Too Often Automatic Windshield Wipers.
Dialing back the intermittent feature does no good. I think that is a mistake in the owners manual. I think the real reason it has a 'dial' is for markets w/o the sensor and you have to set the delay manually. Im going to experiment as the dealer can turn off the sensor and make the dial on the stalk set the delay. Somedays I like the sensor, some days I don't know what its thinking!
They do have good coverage and the blades look kewl.
I think a redesign of the car is necessary, so that water does not come in near the cables. I am not sure I am happy with a car that (as mine now does too) has a greased up wiring loom... that grease should only be a last resort, and not the primary water protection mechanism.
I have to believe that LR will come up with a better solution than grease and then I'll make sure to get retrofitted with it.
This car should really be considered a lemon. The Land rover should recall this cars and fix all the major problems especially those related to safety.
I think the price of this car does not reflect quality