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Land Rover LR3

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Comments

  • jbmjrjbmjr Member Posts: 8
    I am almost yearning for the return of our 2003 MB E320.... Almost....
  • grommetgrommet Member Posts: 445
    David... just continue browsing the forum here or elsewhere for more "info" (and some ranting, of course)... there should be enough. You can also use "search." Be aware, we're not a good statistical sample to evaluate overall vehicle reliablility. I'm almost at 1 year and have had no problems... however, I am obviously in the fuel tank recall range.

    Also do note that service departments don't "pre-fix" possible issues unless they are full vehicle recalls... nobody fixes things that are not known to be broken. Well, unless they are trying to scam the vehicle manufacturer. :P
  • sohna99sohna99 Member Posts: 50
    I have test driven 2006 LR3 V6 couple weeks ago and liked the vehicle alot but after reading these messages I'm hesitating to buy this vehicle. Will it be worth paying $50k when you know these kinda problems might happen to me too? I wonder what is the % of LR3 owners have these kind of problems.
    Any suggestion?
  • grendalflygrendalfly Member Posts: 21
    Knock on wood, but I have not had a single problem with my 05 HSE outsIde of the panel hazing which I took care of myself in about 20 minutes. My friend in CA also hasn't had a single issue. Remember that there are over 17-20K of these in the US. Do I believe that there are lemons out there. Yes. Do I believe that I am going to have problems with my truck? Yes, but I had more inital problems with my wifes Infiniti which at the time had a very high initial quality rating. I also believe that people who have problems are more likely to search out message boards and post thier complaints. All in all, outside of gas going from 2.15 to 3.25 per gallon I am happy with my purchase so far.
  • lr3tjxjlr3tjxj Member Posts: 5
    I have purchased an LR3 V6 SE three weeks and 1500 Miles ago. I ran my usual 500 mile break-in procedure(No speed over 70MPH, accel and decel smoothly, wash vehicle multiple times at the car wash to see if anything leaks or the electronics go batty, take it smooth for 1000 more miles, and change oil). I gave it to my wife for a week and the shift to second gear was slightly abrupt. I then drove the vehicle for three days with some verve and the shifting smoothed out. By the way the engine is smooth and quite responsive in sport mode. No real issues to speak of, and I do not force a gas top-off when fueling.

    ALR
  • sohna99sohna99 Member Posts: 50
    How much did you pay for your LR3 V6? Does it have 3rd seat? What options do you have? What dealer did you buy from?
  • lr3tjxjlr3tjxj Member Posts: 5
    About 46,500 out the door. I have the rear seats and LR floor mats covering all three rows and load space. The package included steering wheel mounted controls, dual climate, and 5 disc Harmon Kardon CD changer audio system which also happily accepts my Ipod through the aux jack just behind the center console. I purchased the LR3 at Land Rover Guilford in CT. The staff there is great to chat with.

    ALR
  • vtsailguyvtsailguy Member Posts: 10
    Does anyone have experience with a windshield replacement? I have a rock chip off to the left side out of view from the driving position. I lean toward repairing the chip so that my new vehicle does not need to be disassembled. But I am concerned that the life of the windshield defrost may be compromised. My dealer or a glass replacement company do not know if the crack (through the front pane only) will reduce the life of the defrost wires.
  • pjd1pjd1 Member Posts: 13
    Greetings, If you've owned Discos any place where they sand & salt the roads
    you're familiar with chipped windshields...I've had some windshields replaced
    because of cracking and other times I've just repaired the chip... If there's no cracking, I would opt just for chip repair, to insure the integrity of the windshield seal....
    I've never had the chip repair fail, or affect the windshield's heating performance.
    If you do chose to replace the windshield, make sure you talk to your dealer to find a LR experienced windshield repair shop.
  • british_roverbritish_rover Member Posts: 8,502
    There is no need for a break in period on modern engines they are machined so exactly that you don't need to change the oil after 500 to 1500 miles to remove "metal shavings." Now if you were to buy an aftermarket engine or have an engine rebuilt then you would probably need to follow whatever break in period the engine builder/manufacturer recomended.

    The tolerances are so tight on modern engines that except for the initial break procedure at the factory you don't need to do anything. Land Rover does not even give any break in procedure recomendations and the advice I have gotten from our shop foreman is that you should drive the vehicle the way you always intend to drive it from the get go. If you are going to drive it hard then drive it hard right away but I would recomend that the engine was properly warmed up.

    I am still kind of split if this is the best procedure or not to do since although the engine does not really need a break in the brakes, transmission and differientals still need to be broken in some. No matter how well those things are machined they still need some drive time to bed and seat in all the way.

    So in my opinion I do not completly agree with our shop foreman. I think for the first 500 or so miles drive smoothly with varied RPM's to break in the transmission, differientals and brakes but then after that drive the vehicle normaly.
  • grendalflygrendalfly Member Posts: 21
    Why do you say that Land Rover doesn't give break in procedure recomendations when the manual says to keep it under 70mph and avoid hard breaking during the first 500 miles?
  • grommetgrommet Member Posts: 445
    You expect someone that works at a dealer to actually read documentation? :P
  • grendalflygrendalfly Member Posts: 21
    :):):)
  • corvettelanecorvettelane Member Posts: 2
    On September 1st, LR North America submitted a voluntary recall of all 2005 LR3's. The recall is for a know and experienced problem with the fumes of a refilling gas tank igniting and causing the car to catch on fire. They noticed the problem when someone, while refueling their car, with the engine running, and temperatures well above 90*F, the fumes ignited and the cars were destroyed. I currently have mine 05' in the shop for a timing chain issue(we'll get to that in a minute). I was well and happy with a fully loaded loaner they gave me when I received a phone call to immediately bring back my loaner because of this issue. According to the dealership, the NTSA has a rule that if the vehicle is under recall, any loaner that have not been fixed, must be quarantined. If you are driving an 05' loaner, and the NTSA finds out, the dealership is changed $5K in fines. I then was forced to drive an 04' Disco for a week while they rounded up another loaner for me. Now I am driving a 06' V6 stripped down. I didn't spend $55k to drive a $46K loaner with nothing in it. I have submitted a formal complaint to corporate for resolution.

    Now back to the other problem that started all of this. My wife and I just traded in our 03' Disco for the LR3. We purchase one of the demo cars that they were getting rid of. The vehicle had 9K in mileage when we bought it. Before we bought it, we heard a funny noise when the engine started. The sales guide said that we were holding the key in the start position for too long when turning it over. Kinda hard to do when you have one-touch starting installed. We didn't have much time to work it out as we wanted the car to take on a trip from Denver to Lake Tahoe the next week. They scheduled the appointment for a couple of days after we returned and said that they saw no real issue with taking the car 2500 miles in a week. We arrived back from our trip with no issues. We returned the car to have it looked at. The technician had no idea what the noise was. They said to return in a week while they talked to the factory about the problem. We had the car for 25 days when I dropped it off. I now have been without the vehicle for 22 days today. They said that it was the timing chain and the timing chain tensioner for the variable cam. I am now approaching that fact that my car has been in the shop for half the time I have owned it and I am not very happy about it. There is no doubt that we love this vehicle. Driving in town or in the rocky mountains outside Denver, it performs flawlessly, even when not running correctly. Has anyone else had the problem with the timing chain?
  • grommetgrommet Member Posts: 445
    "The recall is for a know[n] and experienced problem with the fumes of a refilling gas tank igniting and causing the car to catch on fire. They noticed the problem when someone, while refueling their car, with the engine running, and temperatures well above 90*F, the fumes ignited and the cars were destroyed."

    Where do you get this stuff? A tabloid? FOX news? Or a Land Rover dealer? (Which might be worse.) :P Do a search here regarding the recall. The official documents have the "real" details. Don't spread misinformation.

    One more time: http://199.79.180.163/prepos/files/Artemis/Public/Recalls/2005/V/RCDNN-05V376-1657.PDF
  • corvettelanecorvettelane Member Posts: 2
    I did hear this from the dealer. Supposedly they have had 2 cars in Colorado that did this. Again you are right, this might be BS from the dealer who has no idea what they are talking about. All I know is that the dealer has quarantined all 05's until they get the gas tanks before they sell any 05' vehicle, regardless of what the VIN is or manufactured date. They say this make take 6-8 weeks before they reach the mid-west as all of the first parts will go to the more populated areas of the country.
  • david10635david10635 Member Posts: 3
    Misinformation definately can be a harmful and damaging. However if I felt like I could rely 100% on what the dealer and manufactuer are telling me, it would be a perfect world, but when the "information" I hear first hand from the dealer and first hand from the manufacturer, overtly contradictory, its extremely frustrating and almost impossible to avoid the "urge" to seek input from "like" minded consumers experiencing the same thing. The sales rep at my dealer, didn't even know about a recall - or so he says. He knew NOTHING about a 90 degree temperature "element". Thats well and fine I suppose, but Land Rover DID tell me that "temperature" is an issue. My dealer rep to this very moment says he knew NOTHING about the recall. On the oher hand, however, Land Rover told me not to worry about it, as gasoline doesn't ignite easily......geshhhhh.....am I supposed to just sit by and allow my wife and children to become an exception?...a statistic? It takes time to unstrap a two year old out of car seat you know....God forbid someone trying to do it with the vehicle on fire. Is this the extreme? Yes probably so. Is this something I want to worry about while I am at work, day in and day out until the manufacturer can revise and fabricate a safe fuel tank for my LR3? Nope !Will I deal with it? I suppose I will for the moment. Today I turned in the Chrysler pimp mobile the dealership gave me yesterday and picked up the LR3...I will wait my turn for a "donor" fuel tank. Am I overjoyed about it....again....a big NOPE ! I just took the drive out tags off it Monday. How do I feel about it? Well...I don't think they "my dealer and LR" would knowing allow me their customer to be exposed to a life threatening issue. Like I said....I think its TOTAL [non-permissible content removed], but what is my recourse? I paid cash for the car - certainly have no leverage there.The descrepiancies between my dealer and LR alarm me. I have turned in a formal complaint to LR. So what else can I do. I can trade, but hate to take the financial beating. My choice at this time, is to designate my 04 Range Rover as the official "grocery getter", drive the LR3 myself and wait for the new and improved LR3 fuel tank. I would like to think the dealer didn't know about ANY of this August 11, 2005 when they sold me the vehicle - perhaps they didn't. Hey...on a good note.....the door panels aren't smudged with that white funk anymore! Better yet my fellow LR owners, the dealer didn't charge me for the over night stay. Happy motoring gentlemen ! What else is there say?
  • david10635david10635 Member Posts: 3
    Not only did "they' tell me to be mindful of the outside temperature, "they" also told me NOT to fill the tank up beyond half of a tank. Well.... we live in the "Gulf" states and believe me, when we find a gas station that EVEN has fuel, we fill 'er up to the top, as we HAVE to be mindful of the fuel crisis we are encountering down here because of Katrina. I suppose I will just have to chalk it all up to bad Karma
  • sohna99sohna99 Member Posts: 50
    Did you buy 2005 or 2006 LR3? I'm in a process to buy new 2006 LR3? Any suggestion will be helpful. What are the dates when the fuel tank problem occured? Ant tip will be appreciated.
  • kandgkandg Member Posts: 53
    The recall is for a know and experienced problem with the fumes of a refilling gas tank igniting and causing the car to catch on fire. They noticed the problem when someone, WHILE refueling their car, WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING, and temperatures well above 90*F, the fumes ignited and the cars were destroyed

    I think that says it all folks :confuse:

    to the LR3 owner who is on his 4th Rover, i believe the owner's manual explicitly states using higher octane fuel. Regarding your post, it appears that if your wife had been running regular octane fuel, then that would contribute to the problems of idle, starting, economy, performance. (Please research octane and how it relates to your engine's efficiency and performance) True some SAE's have stated with knock sensors, a motor can compensate but this is not always the case. The ECU is specifically mapped to using this octane level to achieve the ratings of HP and torque for this vehicle.

    This may sound like a rant..and it is. How many are actually reading their owner's manuals? Recently the posts have taken on the "if i paid x amount of $$$ then my expectations are ad nauseum ad infinitum" Every new vehicle will have 1st year teething problems. If it's still under warranty which i would presume that they are since the LR3 is only about 1 year old, then get it fixed. If it's a purge valve, fuel tank problem, there is obviously a fix available. If you go in with the aforementioned attitude then of course the sales/service will probably dismiss you. They are human after all.

    I'm fortunate to own and drive the vehicles i have and each one requires a different learning curve. I've also learned to turn a wrench and get my hands dirty in the pursuit of knowing as much as i can about my cars. If your gripe/rationale relates to money spent then perhaps you should consider a bicycle or drive something a bit more pedestrian. The LR3 is rather advanced and there's no doubt in my mind that any vehicle that utilizes so many electronic assists, will give a problem here or there esp. in first year..and maybe it's second and third :)
  • grendalflygrendalfly Member Posts: 21
    "The recall is for a know and experienced problem with the fumes of a refilling gas tank igniting and causing the car to catch on fire. They noticed the problem when someone, WHILE refueling their car, WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING, and temperatures well above 90*F, the fumes ignited and the cars were destroyed"

    "I think that says it all folks "

    This is not true as stated in previous threads and on The NHTSA.
    Please see the actual recall information and stop spreading errornous information.

    Make : LAND ROVER Model : LR3 Year : 2005
    Manufacturer : LAND ROVER
    NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 05V376000 Mfg's Report Date : AUG 26, 2005
    Component: FUEL SYSTEM, GASOLINE:STORAGE
    Potential Number Of Units Affected : 17263
    Summary:
    SOME SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES MAY HAVE FUEL TANKS THAT CONTAIN AN INTERNAL BREATHER PIPE THAT WAS NOT MADE TO SPECIFICATION. THIS COULD RESULT IN EXCESSIVE SWELLING AND CRACKING OF A GROMMET AND SUBSEQUENT DETACHMENT OF THE BREATHER PIPE FROM A CONNECTOR TUBE. WHEN THE FUEL LEVEL IN THE TANK IS ABOVE THE LEVEL OF THE DETACHED JOINT, FUEL MAY THEN ENTER THE BREATHER PIPE.
    Consequence:
    THE VEHICLE MAY EXHIBIT MIL ILLUMINATION, FUEL ODOR, DRIVABILITY CONCERNS SUCH AS HESITATION, MISFIRE, STALLING, ROUGH RUNNING, OR DIFFICULTY IN STARTING. IF THE AMOUNT OF FUEL FLOWING INTO THE BREATHER PIPE REACHES THE VAPOR CANISTER AND EXCEEDS ITS CAPACITY, THE EXCESS FUEL MAY BE DISCHARGED ONTO THE GROUND. FUEL LEAKAGE IN THE PRESENCE OF AN IGNITION SOURCE COULD RESULT IN A FIRE.
    Remedy:
    DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE FUEL TANKS. THE RECALL IS EXPECTED TO BEGIN ON OCTOBER 14, 2005. OWNERS SHOULD CONTACT LAND ROVER AT 1-800-637-6837.
    Notes:
    LAND ROVER RECALL NO. B016. CUSTOMERS CAN ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S VEHICLE SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), OR GO TO HTTP://WWW.SAFERCAR.GOV.

    This says it could start a fire. Does anyone see where is say 90 degrees ? Does anyone see where it says during refilling?

    Then again if it is on the internet in any form it must be true..... :D
  • paxtonpaxton Member Posts: 2
    It seems to many, it is dumb to be filling ones tank in high temperatures with the engine running, but there's more to this. Most of these problems started in Dubai and UAE, where temps above 90 are the norm. In addition, it would be rare for a native of either country(read rich) to fill one's own tank. That would be left to others, while the driver remained in the vehicle. Since air conditioning is a must, the engine would have to be running.

    Please don't assume that what appears abnormal to some, is necessarily wrong, or even crazy. Just when you think that says it all...
  • kandgkandg Member Posts: 53
    Please don't assume that what appears abnormal to some, is necessarily wrong, or even crazy.

    I don't perceive it as matters of protocol, procedure or custom. This just appears to be lack of good common sense. No matter what part of the world you're in.

    If i remember my basic physics properly...(it's been a while :blush: )

    Vapour and Flash fires from fumes require spark. Explosions (in this case gasoline fumes) are caused by the buildup of pressure due to expansion and the resultant rapid release conversion into kinetic energy by combustion initiated by ignition.
  • jbmjrjbmjr Member Posts: 8
    Final update - 8 days in dealer service. Swapped out front passenger seat for new front passenger seat either because they could not figure out problem or part was back ordered (I can't figure out from the service receipt). Supposedly fixed climate control - rear control is now working and heat does seem to be coming out, but the temp setting is clearly off (setting it at 70 or 68 degrees is just not as chilled as it was, but maybe it was just so off in the first place...).

    At any rate, that is it. I am off now, not to post until I see what appears to be the inevitable fuel tank/leak issues arising!
  • serranotserranot Member Posts: 113
    Just a lurker here. However, I had to comment on this poster's allegations regarding fuel octane.

    I think you need to research octane yourself first before hurling stones at someone else's lack of knowledge. The octane of a fuel relates to its tendency to pre-ignite, and is used in higher performance engines that create combinations of heat and pressure in the cylinder that may lead to pre-ignition. It has absolutely nothing to do with starting,idling, or economy. If this new LR motor is like many newer ones, its knock sensor will retard the timing, throttle, or other engine parameters when it detects engine knock to prevent damage to the engine. This is going to be on the top end of performance, though, or when the engine is hot and under a heavy load. For the vast majority of people, they will never notice the few HP lost to lower octane. Despite all of the bull crap you read on these boards about how people gained 5 mpg by switching to premium, the real scientists have proven that higher octane stops pre-ignition, and that's all.

    The other issue I feel compelled to comment on, somewhat unrelated to this post, is the amount of effort by some LR owners, and other owners of vehicles with not-so-good reliability records, to dismiss those with problems as "trolls," uninformed, FUD spreaders, or other name calling. Individual owners do generally own one vehicle of a kind, which is not a statistical sample. Land Rover, as a brand, has been toward the bottom of statistical reliability. Justify your individual luck however you want, but statistically, one buying a Land Rover is rolling the dice, relatively speaking.

    That's fine with me, though. We all can buy whatever we want (or can afford) in America. If the positive aspects of the vehicle are more meaningful than the issues, then you will enjoy the car just like a Corvette owner. I, for one, bought a Land Cruiser because I could not stand the issues faced by many on this board. It also has issues, but reliability is typically not one of them.

    I suspect that I will be labeled as spreading FUD, but this is my $0.02. With some facts about octane.

    Regards,
    Tom
  • xander93xander93 Member Posts: 2
    An update to my previous post...After 30 days at the dealership and only 900 miles my '05 LR3 HSE was replaced by an '06 LR3 HSE with more features. I've had ther new vehicle for 2 weeks with no problems (yet). I HAVE THE '06 BLUETOOTH OPTION and it works like a dream. The vehicle detects my cellphone within 30 seconds of starting the ignition. The radio display flashes "bluetooth detected" and when my cellphone rings the radio goes to silent, the ring goes through the radio speakers, and the caller id number displays on the radio display. The phone on and off buttons are on the steering wheel. The best feature is the voice recognition integration which allows me to say "phone: dial name" the british lady says: "name please"...then i can say "mom cell phone" and it dials based on the number I have assigned in the phone directory. Everyone is completely impressed by this feature!! I also enjoy the fact that the forward parking assist has found it's way on to the '06. I love my '06 replacement vehicle!

    :):):)
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Just a lurker here.

    You are a lurker no longer - welcome aboard and thanks for your insight! :)

    tidester, host
  • grommetgrommet Member Posts: 445
    Curious: Do you miss the seat lumbar adjustment your '05 had? Well, maybe you didn't have it long enough to even notice it disappeared in '06. :)
  • kandgkandg Member Posts: 53
    It has absolutely nothing to do with starting,idling, or economy. If this new LR motor is like many newer ones, its knock sensor will retard the timing, throttle, or other engine parameters when it detects engine knock to prevent damage to the engine

    Thanks for the insight Serranot and here's my response.

    The octane rating of gasoline tells you how much the fuel can be compressed before it spontaneously ignites. When gas ignites by compression rather than because of the spark from the spark plug, it causes knocking in the engine. Knocking can damage an engine, so it is not something you want to have happening. Lower-octane gas (like "regular" 87-octane gasoline) can handle the least amount of compression before igniting.

    Perhaps i should have been more explicit but i do understand what the rating figure means and how it will affect the performance of a motor. I believe if you look for it, you'll find at least one engineer who will state that the fuel octane requirement listed in a hi-po motor in standard (re: non racing) consumer grade produced motors (such as a sports car etc) has the premium fuel requirement to optimize performance and economy of the engine. They will further state that the knock sensors should compensate when the motor, for lack of a better term, "recognizes" the lower octane. The sales literature usu. says nothing due to the assumption that the consumer will certainly follow the guideline regarding fuel grade.

    What both sources do NOT tell you is the compression ratio of your engine determines the octane rating of the gas you must use in the car. So it follows..higher compression, higher octane/per given engine weight etc.

    My stance on the issue is simply, a lot of motorists will try to "save" a few pennies which i'm sure lately in the states is the norm, by filling up with regular grade fuel instead of premium.

    Now with that bit of information, from personal experience using various octane grades WILL affect the areas of performance and economy although for some not necessarily all areas as listed in my previous post. This isn't in all cars however, (my mx5 na miata obviously will have no advantage using a higher octane but my z32 300zx suffers (hesitation when starting and rough idle) when using lower octane. My e46 bimmers also suffer from using lower octane and have experienced on more than one occasion a very rough ignition using lower octane as an experiment. The problem immediately resolves after flushing the fuel or running it out completely (usu. after 2-3 tanks) and returning to required octane.

    Am i wrong in observing that "retarding timing, throttle and other engine parameters" will not affect the nominal performance aspect of a motor?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    We have a What about fuel types & gas mileage? discussion you should check out too.

    Steve, Host
  • serranotserranot Member Posts: 113
    I agree with your statement that, generally, a higher compression engine will require a higher octane to prevent pre-ignition.

    However, there is not a production vehicle made that won't idle well on 87 octane gas, assuming it is in a proper state of tune. The compression ratio listed for a vehicle, in this case 10.8 to 1, is the theoretical maximum. When you consider pumping losses and the fact that there is a big throttle plate in the way of the air of a gasoline engine running at idle, you are not going to have the air that's in there compressed anywhere near it's maximum theoretical ratio. If you think about it, a higher octane gas is more resistant to igniting than a lower octane. So I think "rough idle" has zero to do with octane and more to do with some other factor. If there is a petroleum engineer here on the boards, I would like to hear the theory of why higher octane gas would cause the engine to run better. I don't want to insult anybody, but I tend to believe that your autos are starting and idling poorly because of some other factor. I've owned everything from a modern Corvette to a Boxster S, all run a variety of grades, and idling characteristics were the same on any grade of gas.

    Engine knock sensors are like little microphones that hear the noise associated with detonation in order to affect engine parameters. They don't sample the fuel grade in the tank or anything like that. If your cars are detonating at idle, there is something wrong with them that transcends fuel grade. Unless there is detonation, the engine has no clue what's in the tank.

    Now then, I also support using what the manufacturer says to use for grade of fuel. If you are going to pay good money for the vehicle, then you should use the right gas for it and not cheap out.

    Sorry, mods, for getting off-topic. I'm done talking about this on this particular board.

    Regards,
    Tom
  • kandgkandg Member Posts: 53
    Just a chance for rebuttal:

    For the uninitiated, car engines nowadays contain knock sensors that detect detonation and automatically retard the spark to compensate. For engines that require higher octane levels as specified by the manufacturer, the delay means maximum gas expansion occurs when the piston is farther along in its downstroke and thus there's more room in the cylinder head. Logically, this reduces peak cylinder pressure, eliminating knock but also giving you less power and poorer mileage.

    We might have to agree to disagree on some points. :surprise: Also wanted to clarify that my initial post was centering on this last point regarding the LR owner whose wife apparently was using the non specified fuel in her vehicle which precipitated the whole discussion regarding octane ratings.
  • koeslerkoesler Member Posts: 57
    Well, it's been 4 months and 4000 miles since I got my 05 HSE and so far - NO PROBLEMS. It's been above 90 degrees the whole time, and I fill my tank with premium to almost overflowing each time, and I've not BLOWN-up, smelled gas, or anything..yet.

    Went off-roading yesterday to try out the rear diff lock function - and it all works great - what an amazing "delivery van". I also found out that my $54,000 vehicle is now worth $ 38,000 on trade-in...bummer - looking at new Corvette.. if I traded though, I would have to turn around and buy another LR, a DII, because that is what I really want. As nice as the LR3 is, it does nothing for me emotionally - like my previous Discoveries...
  • minilandminiland Member Posts: 1
    Grommet,

    I've seen 06 LR3 V6 premium package with seat lumbar adjustment. I have an early HSE 06 (build july 05) without the lumbar adjustment. Do you think that it is a mistake in the earlier model of the production. I can't imagine why Landrover will remove the lumbar adjustment in 06 model. Maybe to compensate for the bluetooth and the front parking distance addition!!

    Miniland
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Thanks for the update.

    It's not recommended to top up a gas tank after it clicks off since the vapor recovery system may not be able to handle the fumes. But if your check engine light isn't going off, maybe you're aren't that close to over filling it.

    Steve, Host
  • koeslerkoesler Member Posts: 57
    Thank you, Steve..Yes, I know what I'm supposed to do - but I've done my fill-ups "my way" for 38 years, on 34 different vehicles, and never experienced any problems. I usually "burp" my tanks and fill until I can actually see fuel in the filler neck..probably a bad idea !

    I did my first oil change last night at 3750 miles - what a major PAIN. The LR oil filter at the dealer was to cost me $ 26.95 but I raised so much hell the parts manager decided to let me have it for $ 16.77 to get my loud mouth out the door. You also have to buy a new oilpan drain plug for 4 bucks - they now have an integrated rubber oil seal built in - what was wrong with a 10 cent washer ?

    The skid plates are heavy and near impossibel to remove and reinstall while flat on your back in the dirt..be sure the vehicle is fully raised also or it's even more difficult.

    The oil shoots out towards the front about 3 feet, so be careful there , and it's 8 quarts. The filter is also near impossible to get to because of the oil cooler lines - another major fubar..Next time I'll pay whatever the cost and let the dealer do it so I don't have to sweat for 2 hours..good thing is that all "scheduled" services are free - but I never go more than 3750 miles on any oil, even the fully synthetic I use in my Toyota Truck.

    Happy rovering to you all - and good luck to those of you having problems..
  • grommetgrommet Member Posts: 445
    Are you sure it was a '06? There were late year '05 V6 SE/Premiums. It'ver very odd they removed the lumbar support adjustment. I didn't drive the vehicle, but I did sit in it and the feel is different to what I'm used to now... and I'm sure it will cause comfort issues with some people. Stupid. Maybe they don't care they'll lose a sale or two.

    As is typical for Land Rover, they get the owner's guide wrong, too... the North America '06 guide documents "electric" lumbar controls, like the Range Rove Sport has. Too bad none of the LR3s have them. :mad:

    Having PTI/Bluetooth forced on you and getting Front PDC (HSE only) is no compensation in '06, since they charge you for those features. :P
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Heh, I've been known to shake the car and burp my tank now and then. ;)

    I got my license in '67 so it looks like both of us are "of an age." I drove some family rides until '73, and have only had ~12 cars since '73 (and two of those I rarely drove). I started doing my own oil changes on my '74 CJ-5; it was simple since it was easy to crawl under and the skid plates weren't in the way.

    $27 for an oil filter is nuts! Actually $16.77 is a bit out there. I've been on 5 or 7,500 mile oil change intervals since the early 90's and paying that much for filters would really cramp my frugal nature.

    I suppose a Futomo valve could help the shooting oil issue if you don't off-road a lot, but it wouldn't help the filter issue.

    Enjoy the ride!

    Steve, Host
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Just as a point of interest, Wix (generally regarded as a quality manufacturer and OE supplier) list an oil filter for the LR3 here, and Rock Auto sell it for $5.51 here.

    Warranty coverage can't be denied for the use of non-OE parts unless they can be proved to be the cause of the problem. Likewise, you can do your own servicing without worry on the same basis.
  • koeslerkoesler Member Posts: 57
    Thanks a lot "mac24" - that looks like the right filter. Dealer told me it costs so much because it's a "Jaguar engine"...they also told me I could not get it at the "auto-parts store"..yeah, right.

    I'm taking the LR3 in Tuesday to get that horrible steering wheel noise fixed - it sound like opening an old door in a spook house..other than that, it's still perfect. I did notice however that the steering feels "loose" and makes severe clunking noises when you go over very rough, rocky ground off-road. And when the HDC kicks in, it sounds like you are inside of a rock crusher. But it all works...

    Yep, "Host", we are getting to be very mature dogs..keep up the great site !!
  • british_roverbritish_rover Member Posts: 8,502
    I know that when the new 6.0 Powerstroke diesel came out for Ford you could not get the oil filter anywhere. Ford dealers were charging 50 plus dollars for a single filter. It was several months before the filters hit the aftermarket and the price dropped to like 15 or so dollars shop cost. We sold the filters for 20 something dollars.

    I am sure the same thing happend with the LR3. I know the original filters for the AJV8 Jag motor have been avaliable on the aftermarket for a while but I am pretty sure the Jag filter is not the same as the filter used on the LR3.
  • webbuzzwebbuzz Member Posts: 36
    I had a similar noise from my steering wheel. The dealer replaced the SRS Coupler Assembly and the noise is gone.
  • mark156mark156 Member Posts: 1,915
    Koesler, you and Steve are a little ahead of me as I got my license in 1974. I used to change my oil myself years ago but it's too much of a hassle.

    One thing I don't understand....why would you change synthetic oil before it's time? If you like changing oil so often, why not just put regular oil in and save the cost of the synthetic. Seems like the synthetic oil is being wasted here.

    Here in California, the gas nozzles are made where over-flow gas will be drained back in the under ground tank so that it's not spilled on the ground. The meter still runs for gas that you have put back to be re-sold. Just because you have done things for 38 years one way, doesn't mean it's right. :P

    Mark :D
    2010 Land Rover LR4, 2013 Honda CR-V, 2009 Bentley GTC, 1990 MB 500SL, 2001 MB S500, 2007 Lincoln TC, 1964 RR Silver Cloud III, 1995 MB E320 Cab., 2015 Prevost Liberty Coach
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Hmmm, I may have to ask around for some neighbors who use synthetic and change every 3,000 miles. I could change their oil and recycle it into my rides.

    The other problem when you don't change it yourself is knowing what oil the dealer or lube place actually put in. Most dealers buy bulk oil by the 55 gallon barrel and many of them reportedly use 10W30 for every vehicle, no matter what the manufacturer recommends. Enough people may be on to that issue now though.

    Guess I should post the oil wars links for those wanting some weekend reading:

    Engine Oil - A slippery subject Part 2

    Synthetic motor oil

    Steve, Host
  • hassler1hassler1 Member Posts: 6
    I have an LR3 and the exact problem! It was also in the shop for 2 weeks and after we picked it up it died 100 yards away from the dealer. They said it was all set and rebooted the computer and we took it. It has diied again and more recently LR3(Christine) refuses to start or turn over, has been towed twice to he dealer, the key fobs, stoopped working twicee and we could not get in the car, the sun roof would not close whin it got wet, the rear wiper stopped working, the seat belt came off in our hands, and more recently the up and down of the car stopped working as well as the front shocks. The dealer and land rover North america says the car is fine. I have not even had this car 1 year and I have had more problems than all my cars ever owned together!
    Oh I gorgot, it still dies and when it wants to on the highway, they said it was a faulty fuel pump, now I am told it is a faulty ground.
    Anyone else have these problems???
    This model should be recalled!!!!!

    They definitely have a problem with this model and for some reason refuse to admit it, and all owners have to wait on hold for customer service to do nothing!
    :lemon:
  • jimjamjimjam Member Posts: 5
    Does anyone know if it's at all possible to retro fit the LR3 navigation system? I have an 05 HSE with a big hole where it should (or I'd like it to) be - though it has most of the other upgrades. Do LR use standard wiring looms & if so could the wiring for it already be there? I've asked LR but the response isn't consistent, I'd really rather not have to fit a 3rd party solution unless it fits in seemlessly.
  • koeslerkoesler Member Posts: 57
    The reason I change my synthetic oil at 3750 miles in my Toyota Tacoma 4x4 is because my 1990 Toyota 4x4 Truck, which had it's oil & filter changed every 3000 miles with Castrol 10W-40, was so full of sludge at 150,000 miles that the engine had 0 psi oil pressure. It cost me $1000 to have the engine stripped down and all the sludge cleaned out. So now I'm using synthetic on the new truck and I change every 3750 miles. I will pull the oilpan at 100K to see what is happening inside.

    I use regular 5W-30 Castrol in the LR3, again with a 3750 mile change interval. Oil is cheap...comparatively speaking...
  • british_roverbritish_rover Member Posts: 8,502
    HSE LR3's are supposed to be standard with Navigation so you either have an SE model or you need to go talk to your dealership and see what is up.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    The late '90's Siennas are prone to sludge/gel too. Toyota really stuck their foot in it when they initially blamed owners for the problem.

    You don't have to wait to pull the pan though to see how your oil and engine are doing; you can get your oil analyzed for around ten bucks.

    Steve, Host
  • grommetgrommet Member Posts: 445
    And, ignoring that, you really can't retrofit a factory Navigation system into a non-Navigation vehicle. There is a reason it's a factory option. It's not supported and (as with most attempts like this) would be cost prohibitive in numerous ways.
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