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Land Rover LR3

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Comments

  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    if you bring you LR3 in for regular service will they check the tire pressure and adjust accordingly?

    They should do, but really this is something you should also do yourself. Tire pressures should be set when cold, and the most appropriate time for this is usually first thing in the morning before you set off for the day.
  • pfolkpfolk Member Posts: 70
    Well said. Also, anyone waiting the regular service interval of 7,500 to 15,000 miles to have this done at the dealership, is going way too long between checks. This should be a monthly check, and even more frequent than that if you put a lot of miles on your vehicle.
  • ssp1ssp1 Member Posts: 115
    So the next question is - are there people checking their tire pressure > = once a month and if so what kind of tire wear are they experiencing on the goodyears?

    It still sounds like the synchrones are the best bet for a combo, good ride and good off road.
  • bgsntthbgsntth Member Posts: 92
    Yet another update.

    Its taken over 3 weeks to get the replacement Goodyears. In the interim, my tires went from just above the wear bars to completely bald. I now firmly suspect that there is something very wrong with the truck, and that these were indeed the original tires. So full tread-depth to bald in 2500 miles. The dealer said they would check the alignment-again, suspension, and frame. I'll update after this has been performed.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Have they gone completely bald, i.e. virtually no tread anywhere, or are they just bald in one area?
  • bgsntthbgsntth Member Posts: 92
    They are completely bald (billard ball) until the very inner tread where there is still some distinguishable tread. For the record I set the pressures to 36/42 with a Longacre guage twice a month. They seem to be wearing as if the camber is positive and/or the toe is in-it seems.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    It's hard to imagine what kind of alignment problem could cause virtual complete tread wear with normal driving and correct tire pressures in 2.5k miles. Having one incorrect parameter, or even a combination, usually results in an asymmetrical wear pattern. Even if by chance a combination of factors caused this complete wear to happen on one tire, it stretches things a little to have it happen to all four.

    Although your ultimate remedy probably lies with the dealer, I would be suspicious that it may be the tires that are at least partially at fault. Maybe faulty construction, maybe the wrong spec for the vehicle.
  • mark156mark156 Member Posts: 1,915
    Not only is it hard to imagine a set of tires going bald in 2,500 miles,..... what sound must they be making to go bald that fast!???

    As I've mentioned before, with almost 15,000 miles on my 2006 LR3, my tires are wearing even but do make a little bit of noise. I rotated them at 9,000 miles and will do it again at 18,000 miles.

    Southpaw75... I like the dial-type climate controls, it's so easy to use. Since I keep my climate control on automatic, I rarely touch the dials.

    I also added the walnut dash to my LR3... Looks wonderful and I'm very pleased with it.

    Mark156 :)
    2010 Land Rover LR4, 2013 Honda CR-V, 2009 Bentley GTC, 1990 MB 500SL, 2001 MB S500, 2007 Lincoln TC, 1964 RR Silver Cloud III, 1995 MB E320 Cab., 2015 Prevost Liberty Coach
  • southpaw75southpaw75 Member Posts: 33
    Okay, my local dealer is bringing in a service loaner with over 6,000 miles on it from another dealer. What should I expect in the way of tire condition? What do I look for? In addition, as part of the deal to purchase, should I ask for and expect an alignment and rotation? Is it good to rotate every 9,000 miles like Mark 156 is doing?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Is it good to rotate every 9,000 miles like Mark 156 is doing?

    This is a generic answer, you can't rotate your tires too frequently, just like you can't check the pressures too frequently! Even on a correctly aligned vehicle each wheel wears it's tire a little differently to the others. The more often you rotate them the less will be the effect of that individual wear pattern. What is just as important, for obvious reasons, is to do it at the same mileage interval each time. I have no idea what LR recommend, but a good ballpark is every 6K. I do the rotation on my vehicles every 3K when I change the oil.

    I do the rotations myself, but if cost is a factor you might want to work out the extra mileage gained vs. the cost of rotation.
  • maradagmaradag Member Posts: 85
    LR3 vehicles have a recommended gas usage of premium or 93.

    Is this absolutely necessary? What if I were to used 89 instead? Would it affect the vehicle that much that I would notice it?

    Please advise.
    Thanks.
    Mara
  • lr3maybelr3maybe Member Posts: 134
    I have the alpaca interior. On the side of the drivers seat it appears to have discolored slightly. Almost a blue or greyish tint in a line from front to back where the seat side flexes when you are sitting on it. It is no big deal, but I saw the same discoloration on another LR3.
    Does anyone else have this discoloration? I might ask the dealer to replace this seat cover. They are already going to replace the seat back covers because they don't fit tightly at the headrest supports.
  • pfolkpfolk Member Posts: 70
    It's not a flaw in the leather. Lighter leathers show dirt sooner. You really need to clean and feed these leathers every couple of months--2-3 times a year--to keep them looking good. I had the same thing happen in mine. A quick wipe off with Zymol leather cleaner and they looked as good as new again. You should also be putting leather conditioner on them periodically to keep them supple and looking good. The owner's manual (it's that book in the glove box you've been meaning to read :) ) tells you what you need to do. It also warns that the dirt will set and permanently discolor the leather if you don't keep it clean.

    There are several good products available. Lexol is also pretty good. I prefer Zymol products because they don't have any VOC's in them--all natural. So you can clean your seats without getting a buzz.
  • british_roverbritish_rover Member Posts: 8,502
    There aren't many out there as of yet. We have only sold a couple of them used so far. The average 2005 MY LR3 HSE that sold for mid $50k's new is going for mid to high $30k's CPO.

    Under 20,000 miles in good shape would be very close to $40k retail CPO.
  • mark156mark156 Member Posts: 1,915
    Hey British Rover... good to see you back... I guess you have given up in the "stories from the sales front lines".. we miss you over there!!!

    Bought a 2007 Honda CR-V to tow behind the new motorhome... picked it up today... nice little SUV!

    I'll never give up my Land Rover!!! So, don't worry! LOL!

    Mark :)
    2010 Land Rover LR4, 2013 Honda CR-V, 2009 Bentley GTC, 1990 MB 500SL, 2001 MB S500, 2007 Lincoln TC, 1964 RR Silver Cloud III, 1995 MB E320 Cab., 2015 Prevost Liberty Coach
  • british_roverbritish_rover Member Posts: 8,502
    I can't post at work anymore and don't spend much time on the computer at home so I won't be on much anymore.

    Good luck with the honda I can see that being one of the best dinghy type vehicles for a motorhome.
  • lr3maybelr3maybe Member Posts: 134
    Thanks for your comments pfolk.
    It really doesn't appear to be dirty. I use a Griotts Garage leather product that I really like. With a clean cloth, you can see it pick up a little dirt off the seats so I know it cleans, but on the side at the discoloration it didn't even touch it. This is not dirt I don't think. I keep my interior pretty clean. If it was ordinary dirt, then it would come off with the leather cleaner onto a white cloth, at least a little bit. But none of it comes off the seat, and no soil is visible on the cloth.
  • ssp1ssp1 Member Posts: 115
    I have the same issue and its only on the drivers side. I used the Connolly Leather Care Kit that i purchased at the dealer. It did reasonably well in cleaning it up but it appears hard to remove completely
  • morocco2morocco2 Member Posts: 43
    I have noticed the same problem within a month of taking delivery of my LR3. It is also located on the driver side at the exact same spot. In addition I seem to get the same grayish tint on my arm rest and pretty much the entire seat except the head rest. I have tried the Land Rover leather cleaner with poor results. I suspect that my recently purchased black leather jacket may have something to do with this :confuse:

    I will try different products to see if I can get this grayish tint off and refrain to wear my black leather jacket while I drive to see if that solves the issue.

    I do not think it is dirt because I clean my seat almost weekly.
  • lr3maybelr3maybe Member Posts: 134
    I got my truck stuck in the snow this weekend - for a while.
    I pulled into some deep snow to take a picture. It was aimed downhill and sloped to the right towards a snowbank.
    It slipped when I tried to back out so I tried to power it thru going forward. But I had to turn to the left upslope away from the snowbank. It went in another 20 feet and got stuck deeper.
    I dug it out a bit, and tried rock crawl mode because I thought it would lock the differentials. It was deep powdery snow on top of ice, I had trouble standing up on it.
    Rock Crawl didn't budge it an inch.
    I then tried the Sand mode. It shot out of the snow like a rocket. So what did I do wrong?
    I didn't try the Grass/Gravel/Snow mode because it never seemed to help in deep snow in the past.
    Afterwards, I realized I had forgotten all about the DSC button on the dash - I should have turned off DSC and then it would have let my wheels slip. That's also what was wrong with Rock Crawl - it wouldn't let the wheels slip. I didn't try the Mud and Ruts mode but I think that would have helped too.

    So I've tried to create a little chart with each terrain response mode and their functions.

    Basically what I have so far is:

    Grass/Gravel/Snow
    Slow Throttle Response
    Transmission Upshifs Early
    Starts in High 2nd or Low 3rd
    Locked Differentials
    Aggressive Traction Control Limits Wheel Slip
    Normal Suspension Height

    Mud and Ruts
    Transmission Upshifts Early, Low Range Recommended
    Partial Locked Differentials
    Raised Suspension Height

    Sand
    Fast Throttle Response
    Transmission Downshifts Early
    Reduced Traction Control Allows Wheel Slip

    Rock Crawl
    Slow Throttle Response
    Low Range Required, Starts in Low 1st
    Locked Differentials
    Aggressive Traction Control Limits Wheel Slip
    Raised Suspension

    I gathered the above info from the owners manual and a printout that I found somewhere. There are a couple things missing:
    In the Mud and Ruts mode, is the throttle response fast or slow? (I'd guess fast)
    In the Mud and Ruts mode, is the Traction Control limited or aggressive (I'd guess limited to let it slip)
    In the Sand mode, are the differentials locked, partially locked, or open? (no guess here)
    In the Sand mode, is the suspension raised or normal. (I can try this one to find out).

    If anyone has the answers, I'd like to know. I plan to print the little chart to keep it handy for the next time I get myself stuck. Though I don't think I'll forget the DSC button again.
  • ssp1ssp1 Member Posts: 115
    I was told to use mud/ruts when the ground is really soft. Snow mode is when there is snow on top of a firm base. Based on what you said I would have gone straight to mud ruts and tried it. I am a novice but Have used the terrian respnse wi sucess.
  • lr3maybelr3maybe Member Posts: 134
    I tried to get some info on the antifreeze used in the LR3.
    The owners manual specs Castrol SF LR N 2279.
    Some local Land Rover Dealers said they use the Land Rover product while other said they use Dexcool by Texaco/Havaline.
    According to Land Rover North America, my 2006 model came from the factory with Texaco XLC antifreeze. This has a 10 year life but they wouldn't recommend going that long. Also, according to them, the Dexcool is perfectly ok to use.
    I was considering periodically (annually) testing my antifreeze for pH to see when it began to wear out, but I think instead I'll just change it at 4 or 5 years and I think I'll use the Land Rover labelled antifreeze instead of the Dexcool. When I searched the internet for Dexcool, I found references to lots of problems when using it in General Motors vehicles. Even though it is ok'd by Land Rover I think I buy the other stuff. I haven't found the Castrol product anywhere.

    For me, I think I'
  • lr3maybelr3maybe Member Posts: 134
    I did have soft snow over a very hard base of ice. Snow mode would have not let the wheels slip and it would have reduced engine output so it wouldn't have helped. I have tried it unsuccessfully in the past in this kind of snow.
    I think the mud and ruts would have worked too. It amazes me how a different setting could make the difference between spending the afternoon hoping someone else would come by and yank me out, and just driving out like it wasn't even snowy.
  • ssp1ssp1 Member Posts: 115
    I am guessing in the snow mode your tires would generally have to be touching that firm surface versus having snow between the tire and the road. Which is more like a mud/ruts mode etc.
  • pfolkpfolk Member Posts: 70
    Your problem is obvious. You should have stayed on the road and had your wife/husband get out of the truck to take the picture!

    Why look for a complicated answer when a simple one is close at hand? I had a similar "problem" a few years back while showing my younger brother a small herd of javalina crossing the road ahead of us. He wanted to get a picture so I told him to get out and walk ahead of our RR for a better shot.

    Those little pigs don't see so well but they sure have a good sense of smell. I knew they would take off through the live oak as soon as they got a whiff of city slicker. They did that but one broke from the herd and started towards my brother before veering back into the brush. He wasn't that big--the pig, that is--but that momentary look of fear mixed with bewilderment from my younger brother was priceless. We laughed all the way back to Phoenix.
  • pfolkpfolk Member Posts: 70
    I wanted to thank, once again, the fellow owner who recommended the clear plastic film from Griot's Garage that one can apply to the somewhat exposed LR3 foglamps.

    This film is thick and pliable but easy to cut and crystal clear. After removing the trim ring around the foglamp the entire lamp is exposed. You only need to cut a 10cm circular piece of film, heat it with a hair dryer to make it flexible, stick it on the face of the lamp, and then squeegee out the air bubbles. After you pop the trim ring back in place, you won't eve know it's there.

    Obviously, I'm not tailgating dump trucks to see if this stuff works but I'm sure I have an extra margin of protection the next time a rock hits one of those fog lamps. Since a replacement lamp runs US$150+ in my neck of the woods, that's money well spent.
  • lr3maybelr3maybe Member Posts: 134
    My wife would have been happy to get out and take the picture, but the point of the picture was to photo the LR3 in the deeper snow. So I did this on purpose. Of course, once we were stuck even deeper, she wanted another photo but couldn't open her door - so I had to take it. I only mentioned this tale to educate other people about the use of the DSC switch on the dash which I had forgotten about, and the best choice of terrain response modes that may not be the one you think it is.
    At any rate I learned a little more about my truck.
  • lr3maybelr3maybe Member Posts: 134
    That was me. You are welcome. Griot's is a great company. They might not have the lowest prices, but they have the highest quality products and great customer service. I had bought clear headlight shields from them, didn't use them for about 4 years, then found that they had separated from the adhesive backing while in storage. Griot's replaced them without a question. I also like their interior care products and they have a nice product for maintaining the black plastic bumpers and fender flares. I have no relationship with them except for being a customer. www.griotsgarage.com
  • british_roverbritish_rover Member Posts: 8,502
    I bought some limited edition driving shoes from them a few years ago. Some of the most comfortable driving shoes I have ever owned.
  • pfolkpfolk Member Posts: 70
    Would those be wellies? How stylish!
  • british_roverbritish_rover Member Posts: 8,502
    They were made in Italy but I can't remember the name. They were a limited production run just for gringots.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Any idea if the fog shields will help prevent hazing or yellowing? Maybe that's not an issue with Land Rover headlamps anyway.

    In any event, good tip about Griots - I gave them a little plug in the Healing Hazy Headlamps Guide.
  • british_roverbritish_rover Member Posts: 8,502
    Never really noticed any hazing on Land Rover head lamps at all. Even the late 80's early 90's Classic Range Rovers normaly have fairly clear headlamps.
  • bgsntthbgsntth Member Posts: 92
    Last update.

    At my insistence, the dealer checked the alignment again, and NOW found that the "toe" was indeed way out of specification. Imagine driving down the road with the tires being pigeon-toed.

    I now doubt that they originally checked the alignment or road-tested the truck to verify my complaints regarding the erratic steering. The truck drives great now, but this is not how I wanted to begin my relationship with Land Rover. Yes, letters have been written.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    It's interesting that the toe setting was out of adjustment, but an incorrect toe will not cause the tires to go completely bald in 2500 miles.

    What it will do is cause excessive wear on the inside or outside edges of the tread, maybe an inch or three.
  • mark156mark156 Member Posts: 1,915
    Mac... if a man has no hair on the top but some on the sides he is still called bald. :P
    2010 Land Rover LR4, 2013 Honda CR-V, 2009 Bentley GTC, 1990 MB 500SL, 2001 MB S500, 2007 Lincoln TC, 1964 RR Silver Cloud III, 1995 MB E320 Cab., 2015 Prevost Liberty Coach
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    no hair on the top but some on the sides he is still called bald.

    Some prefer to call that "thinning!" :shades:

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Not when it's the other way round though. ;)
  • lr3maybelr3maybe Member Posts: 134
    On a 2006 LR3 (USA model)
    I removed both front seats to swap seat bottom coverings because the was a small damaged area on the left side of the drivers seat. (I swapped the leather cover and foam but not the metal pan and sensors).

    Everything seems ok but am unsure about the Passenger Airbag Warning Light. This light on the dash to just above and right of the radio is lit when no one is in the passenger seat - it says Passenger Airbag Off or something to that effect. If I sit in the passenger seat and buckle up, the light goes off as expected (airbag is activated). But I don't recall if this light used to stay lit on the dash all the time when no one was in the passenger seat. Could some one tell me what their's does please?
    Thanks
  • morocco2morocco2 Member Posts: 43
    Mine works exactly as you stated but it remains off if nobody is in the passenger seat. It will only come on if an object of person occupying the seat is below a certain weight. The weight sensor de-activates the passenger airbag to avoid injury to smaller passengers.

    At least this is how I understand it after having read the owners manual :shades:
  • lr3maybelr3maybe Member Posts: 134
    Thanks for the reply.
    But your light is not lit when no passenger is in the seat right? I don't recall seeing it lit all the time but it is now.
    It seemed like the only time it used to light was when I put a backpack on the seat.
  • british_roverbritish_rover Member Posts: 8,502
    Yeah it is supposed to only light up if something to light(hehe pun) is in the passenger seat or if someone leans to far forward. It shouldn't stay on all the time.
  • morocco2morocco2 Member Posts: 43
    You are correct the light is off when the seat is not occupied and will only come on briefly when the vehicle is started unless I place an object on the seat or one of my smaller children happens to be in the front seat.
  • lr3maybelr3maybe Member Posts: 134
    Thanks both of you. I think I must have bothered it pulling all the connectors. I'll check them over the weekend.
    It does seem to light on start up, then flicker off and come back on, probably when the computer checks to see if the seat is occupied. It isn't right. Not a big deal but I'd like it to work correctly.
  • pfolkpfolk Member Posts: 70
    If you can remove the stain with a leather cleaner, it's dirt. If you can't, it's patina, the mark of a well-used Landy.

    Make up a story to explain it and enjoy driving your truck. They drive better when they're dirty anyway.
  • gillzgillz Member Posts: 15
    The cooler box has a feature that despite the vehicle being switched off, the cooler runs on battery for a brief period of time. I am finding that the time the cooler box runs in this mode is far too short (maybe 2 min).

    Is there a programming function that the dealer svc dept can tweak that will permit the cooler box to run for say 10 minutes or so. Would make the unit much more functional and am sure not drain the battery too much..

    By the way....just returned from a 1500mi tour in my '07my LR3 round Yosemite, Lake Tahoe, northern Calif. Went over mountain passes without worry and the LR performed impeccably. Very secure and comfortable vehicle and when we got home, my wife commented that despite a 600mi final leg of the trip, the fatigue was less than driving in any other car we own...incl BMW 7 series!

    Thanks.
  • british_roverbritish_rover Member Posts: 8,502
    Almost anything can be adjusted using T4 or ISDN so maybe but you would have to call them and see.
  • lr3maybelr3maybe Member Posts: 134
    OK, the passenger seat airbag light fixed itself and has now been operating correctly for a week or more. It must have take the computer a few starts to sort itself out.
  • macc24macc24 Member Posts: 20
    Does anyone know where the event data recorder a.k.a. "black box" is located in the LR3? Will the car still work with it removed?
  • lr3maybelr3maybe Member Posts: 134
    I have a certificate that will save you $2000 or $1500 I will sell. Make your email address public and reply and I will email to you. I can send you a scan of the certificate and the cover letter if you would like to see it.

    There is a place on the certificate where I can sign and transfer it to a friend.

    Exact wording on the certificate is as follows:

    Save $2000 on a new 2007 Range Rover HSE*
    Save $1500 on a new 2007 Range Rover Sport HSE**
    Save $1500 on a new 2007 LR3 V8 HSE, SE, or V6 SE

    *Offer valid on purchase or lease of a new, previously untitled 2007 Range Rover HSE (excludes Supercharged model) from 4/16/07 to 6/30/07. **Offer valid on purchase or lease of a new, previously untitled 2007 Range Rover Sport HSE (excludes Supercharged model) from 4/16/07 to 6/30/07. Offer valid on purchase or lease of a new, previously untitled 2007 LR3 V8 HSE, SE or V6 SE from 4/16/07 to 6/30/07. Present this certificate to Retailer and take delivery from Retailer stock by 6/30/07. These offers may not be combined with any other private purchase offer. Limit one redemption per household. These offers exclude demonstration vehicles and service loaners. For current lease customers, these offers may not be combined with the Early Lease Termination offer. See Retailer for complete details.
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