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Chevrolet Equinox Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • colt_herocolt_hero Member Posts: 107
    My advice:

    1.) Buy new
    2.) Buy the service manuals from the manufacturer
    3.) Buy the Haynes manual from your local parts store
    4.) Immediately start reading and learning about your new car so that when problems start happening in the 3rd or 4th year you can either repair it yourself or at least have an idea how to troubleshoot it before taking the car in to a "professional".

    An informed/knowledgeable owner is a happier owner.
  • colt_herocolt_hero Member Posts: 107
    Which brand of rotors did you install? I just put a set of Wagners (from Advance) on my '97 Taurus (@~185,000 miles). Think I paid about $75 for them. The originals from the factory were warped from DAY ONE, but I refused to replace them, thinking they'd grind themselves down over time. Well, they sort of did (or maybe I just got used to the rumble), but now with the new dics - smooth as glass. Amazing how such a simple fix can make the car feel like brand new again!

    Maybe your vehicle DOES have undersized rotors, or maybe your replacements were poor quality from China (I was shocked to see "Made in China" on my Wagners/Federal Mogul - something I was trying to avoid), or maybe someone air-gunned your lug nuts (over-tightening them)? Another reason could be the discs mounting unevenly on the hub (rust buildup behind?).

    The brake squeal is usually caused by the pad vibrating in its bore (in the caliper) - if it's a new pad. If it's an old pad, it could be the metal "hook" that is designed to cause a squeal to indicate the pad is worn (way down). Some people smear that pad goop on the backside during install to stop the squealing. I've never used it and have only very rarely heard any squealing from the pads on any of my vehicles. I think the cause of the squeal is variability in the making of the pad's metal body. I don't think they're all exactly the same size. Plus you've got the caliper bore possibly wearing over time, too...
  • bhollanderbhollander Member Posts: 3
    Took car in to have radio checked keeps going in and out and the door chimes do not work when you open doors. Well its not the fuses its the amplifier yes thats over 1000 to fix. How does this go bad? Car is 2005 equinox I have cars over 10 years old and this does not happen.
  • laserbluelaserblue Member Posts: 313
    Dear (bhollander), they had to change my entire unit and to make things worse, they always replace it with a "rebuilt".
    My radio was playing o.k. but the problem was the C.D.
    Unit # 1 (The original) I couldn't insert a C.D.
    Unit # 2 Same thing.
    Unit # 3 The unit couldn't read the C.D.
    Unit # 4 The C.D. got stucked inside the unit ( lost my C.D.)
    Unit # 5 I couldn't insert a C.D.
    Unit # 6 Was still working after 4 months but I traded the Equinox for a 2010 HHR.
    The HHR 2LT and it"s a jewel and fun to drive.

    P.S. you are not alone with the 2005's Radio/C.D. units.
  • ctetzlaffctetzlaff Member Posts: 1
    Edmunds has a great schedule but, when I was in ther service department, the advisor had a completely different schedule list and a kinda scary price list. Anyone knw where I can find the Mr Goodwrench scheduled maintenance listing?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited October 2010
    Edmunds gets the maintenance information from Chevy.

    The other stuff on the dealer or Goodyear's recommended list may be ok to do, but it's not what Chevy says needs to be done.

    Remember that most service writers work on commission and most will try to upsell you services that your car may not need.

    Instead of asking for a 30k service, you can just ask that the mechanics just do the specific items that Chevy recommends be done. If the price still seems outrageous, say so, and go elsewhere.

    Get ratings & reviews on car dealers & repair shops in your neighborhood
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    Everything you need to know about maintenance schedules are in the back of your owners manual. It is your best friend, read and use it.
  • ctopolinskictopolinski Member Posts: 2
    I may be able to give you a clue of another underlying problem you are having since I experienced the same thing. I thought my rim was bent, my tires were bad, my rotor was warped after having them turned. What the real root cause of the issue was a bad wheel bearing/hub assembly. It will grind and make a rubbing noise as the bearing were shot inside hub. You might want to jack up your car and try to see if there is any play in your wheel, there should be none.
  • ctopolinskictopolinski Member Posts: 2
    LOL!..i'm reading these post's wondering what are they talking about. Chris
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    Isn't it just a tad late to reply to a post of 3 years ago? :confuse:
  • robin33robin33 Member Posts: 3
  • laserbluelaserblue Member Posts: 313
    He must like the movie "Back to the future". Wow!
  • yakkyakk Member Posts: 2
    I would like to start off with, we leased a GM Certified used Vehicle from a GM Certified Dealership, with an EXTENDED GM service contract.

    I can say that the essence of GM customer service to follow you on a Certified Used lease or with their extended warranty sucks.

    Our Equinox has recently had issues with the shifter and shifter cable. Still inside of the 80k/ 5 year extended warranty we purchased GM refuses to fix this issue under said warranty. WHY?

    Apparently, a fuse cap was lodged in the linkage and caused this to happen.

    We have only had our vehicle serviced at Authorized and Certified GM service centers, so when the issue began, we brought our vehicle into one of them. The date they have for the warranty expiration is 2 years short of what we have on GM service contract, but we managed to get it in, 1 day before the date they have for warranty expiration.

    Here we go.

    The fuse cap as described by a mechanic is approx 8"x5" and is made of plastic. The shifter linkage is Metal. A former GM service manager explained to me:

    I would have better odds of winning the lottery then to have this cap find its way into where it could cause damage to the linkage. It would have to navigate its way past the air filter and wiring. Not something that is just likely to happen. He also explained that things happen and the reason for a warranty is just that. Following up this, he said, stuff falls off of space shuttles, it's just a fact of life.
    Secondly he added, when he spoke to the service center, they had explained that they took the cap out from this area, and placed it back onto the fuse box. He questioned that it fit so well. If a "PLASTIC" cap that damaged "METAL" linkage, in the winter months of Calgary (-30), it shouldn't fit back perfectly.

    He had explained that as a former GM Service Manager, the Shifter cable and Shifter if was defective, should be replaced under warranty as the likelihood of everything up to this point was near impossible.

    After calling an additional GM service center, the words from the Mechanic who responded to our call for an estimate on parts and service were, "Oh no, not another one of these".

    GM maintains that because this cap had to be physically removed, certainly would not have come off by itself, that any factory warranty would not cover it. With a check of recall history, 2005, the only recall on the Chev Equinox was for the shifter cable. **wink wink**

    http://www.autorecalls.us/aut-04/recalls/2005/chevrolet/equinox/47007.html

    We have been without our vehicle for 3 weeks, and it is only be repetitious calls into GM customer service that we would even get an answer on this. I had given up on the agent who was investigating our case as she never returned any of my phone calls. Finally going through the main switch board again, I had explained my frustration with the agent handling our situation, to the point she offered to help. Upon her explaining service to me, as if she was a certified mechanic, and us not coming to an agreement, she stated, "I am wasting my time on the phone with you", that because I was not in agreement, that the whole conversation was a waste of her time. When I clarified if it was in FACT GM Customer Service and if she was a customer service agent, and to verify that she had stated that talking to me was a waste of time, she quickly recanted her statement. When I asked to speak to her supervisor over her "Wasted Time", statement, she said that because it was not her case to deal with that she would not let me speak to her supervisor.

    Now it gets good.

    The primary agent just called me back. When I spoke to her previously, I had explained that I wanted a speedy resolve, and that because parts would need to be ordered, (as per the service center), a better understanding of the warranty coverage would be appreciated. She stated that she had called the service center but hadn't gotten a call back. I had a shower...I called the service center and asked if they had received a call from GM and Why they hadn't called my agent back. The service center explained that they had "just" talked to GM about our situation, and that we could expect a call back from them. This was at 1:30pm, Thursday December 23rd.

    We are 1 week later and it is only after my prompting that we received this call back.

    Lianne, extension 2377. We're sorry that we are not going to be able to cover this under warranty. I have talked to the dealership and have closed the case.

    Me. When did you talk to the dealership?

    Lianne. December 23rd.

    Me. Then why has it taken a week for me to hear back from you.

    Her. I talked to the service manager and went home, you are just on my call back list today.

    Me. Your shift according to your message is from 11:00 EST to 8:00EST, you talked to the dealership at 3:30 EST and went home?

    Her. I did not.

    After her getting all pissy with me because I called her a liar, I requested to speak with a Supervisor...She explained that I could, but the answer would still be the same on the warranty. I told her that I was at this point interested about her lying to me and that she lacks severely in customer service skill sets.

    Take your business elsewhere...If you are still interested in purchasing a GM product, at least save your money by not purchasing an extended warranty, you will need it come time to service anyways.

    But really, would you stand behind a product when even the manufacturer wouldn't'?
  • colt_herocolt_hero Member Posts: 107
    Sad thing is - after all the time wasted, this problem is probably fairly easy to fix.
  • yakkyakk Member Posts: 2
    Yes, but now that the dealership/service center has, "Rendered the Vehicle Un-driveable", and now that I have tried to go through GM to address my concerns, the dealership is now wanting an authorization for this $1700 worth of service.

    Ya really have to love coincidence though...

    1. That even though my Extended Warranty clearly states that it will expire in the year 2012, according to GM, it Expired the day my vehicle was brought into the dealership. **wink wink**

    2. After Lianne had told me that the Service Center never called her back, she miraculously got in touch with them on the very day that I called her...**wink wink**

    3. That after taking a week to hear back from GM Customer Service, 2 weeks of my Equinox parked in for service, it was only my turn to have a phone call returned after calling in...**wink wink**

    4. That parts never fall off of vehicles and it was only the 2005 Equinox that there was a factory recall on the Shifter Cable...**wink wink**
  • bvmclainbvmclain Member Posts: 1
    I've been having a problem with my key getting stuck in the ignition and this morning after trying to take it out for over 15min I just left the key an had someone watch my car while I dropped off my son at the daycare. The power train light came on and also the check engine light so I drove it to the chevy dealership, I explained what happened and left the car, when I went back they said the ignition box needed to be replaced and that the warranty would not cover it! I think the problem is greater than that but they just look at me as if I'm dumb or something. Has anyone else had this problem?? Oh by the time the mechanic started inspecting my car the engine light and the power train light magically turned off and the computer didn't find a problem with the codes.
  • northerner19northerner19 Member Posts: 7
    It's funny that you posted this. I have a 2009 equinox and my key got stuck last week in the ignition. To make a long story short, my father is a mechanic and told me to spray some WD-40 into ignition and wiggle the key around inside. After a few wiggles, the key turned over. Could have been a built up of debris inside.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    er...I am really pleased you freed up the lock, but really, WD-40 should not be put into locks. Graphite lube is the best as it does not attract and retain debris, as WD-40 does.
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    In addition (taken from the world of antique clock repair) WD-40 in time tends to gum up, debris or not.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    True enough, but you know, sometimes you gotta use what you have, to get out of an emergency. Hopefully, no adverse effects will occur.
  • tracy9tracy9 Member Posts: 6
    edited March 2011
    Does anyone know how to remove the plastic covering at the back of the roof rack so I can install my own cross bars. I tried to pry on them a little but it seems like I will just crack them.
  • osrvosrv Member Posts: 2
    I drove my '10 Nox to the dealership, today. Same problem. Can't get the key out of the ignition lock.
    This happened one time in Aug '10. Not since then has the key stuck until Friday.
    The service writer at a local dealership indicated that the problem was caused by a defective ignition lock solenoid. I don't believe it. The problem feels like a cable sheath has come loose causing a simple adjustment to appear like major problem.
    I found that the key will come out if you QUICKLY rotate the key from Off to Lock. If you gently try to remove the key, it will lock up every time.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    osrv,
    Have your issues been resolved?
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • clebo1clebo1 Member Posts: 78
    My Issues with the Cac-Gm customer service has not been resolved, they keep teeeling me i do not contact them back I have over 15e-mails where could not get a hold of Raymund the specialist who was handling my claim,I offered to take my vehicle to a dealer qwhich i frequently used and have gm pay the charges to repair once and for all,i neeed someone at gm to authorize repaid for me totaling approx / $ 1500. can anyone do that as for the keys,you will have to have your lock changed as i did when it was noticed the key for the dooor and the ignition came from the factory and did not mact the door.so i had to pay almost $300.00 out of my pokcet for a locksmith!!! :mad:
  • mig66mig66 Member Posts: 3
    It has been a while since I have responded to my post. AfterI put on my second set of Wagner rotors with ceramic brake pads since the semi-metallic ones were not doing the trick, I drove around and realised the front driver side rotor was twice as hot as the left side rotor. Took it to the shop, Firestone, the next day and had the calipers replaced because of a ceased piston. So now I have new Wagner rotors, ceramic pads and new calipers on there thinking everything would be good now. No, brake squeal at 30mph and lower when stopping came back within the first month and the rotors have warp to them now at 76k miles. I took it in three days ago for a tire repair and rotation but had them check the brakes because of the squealing. I had them clean out the drum brakes and adjust the if need be so I could eliminate that as a cause for the squealing. after their first test drive they noticed the sqealing and put the anti-vibration goop on the back of the pads but said that may only be temporary. It was, within a day the brakes were squealing but not as bad. I checked Chevy's service bulletins and they have on for that exact problem for their cars and said it is just normal. I showed the guy at Firestone and he agreed that was the same problem I was having. I have tried brake pads with the goop and without the goop and in either case the brakes eventually start to squeal. So, my next step will be to replace the clips that hold the pads into the calipers since they have been messed with so much and they are cheap to replace. I re-torque my lug nuts after getting it back from Firestone just to make sure but they always air-gun them on there then torque them to the proper amount so I don't have to do much. after these rotors wear out i may try some EBC rotors and pads or just their pads with Wagner rotors. Don't know yet and don't really want to think about spending any more money on this problem even though I enjoy problem solving it.
  • anfranciscoanfrancisco Member Posts: 1
    Dear Doug,

    I have the same problem. What is the solution?

    Thanks,
    Anthony F.
  • pamt523pamt523 Member Posts: 5
    I too am having the key problem after putting car in park, turning key to off and try to remove. Probably 4 times out of 5 it locks up anywhere from a few seconds to 30 seconds. I notice when it does lock up I am able to push the button on the shifter and take it out of park even with the engine off. Seems like something is up with the shifter. Any ideas?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    pamt523,

    Were you planning on having the vehicle looked at by your dealership? Please keep me posted.

    Thank you,
    Caron, GM Customer Service
  • pamt523pamt523 Member Posts: 5
    Yes, I will probably have it looked at next week. Thank you for checking on me.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    pamt523,

    You're welcome! Please keep me posted when you do have a chance to have the vehicle looked at.

    Thank you,
    Caron, GM Customer Service
  • equinox8equinox8 Member Posts: 1
    My engine light JUST came on yesterday. I read the book, looked at my gas cap it was loose, tightened it. Added gas this morning, closed gas cap tight and engine light STILL on. I've had my car serviced regularly so I am wondering if this is a "ploy" to get you in the dealership because I just hit 37,111 miles (past my 36,000 warranty miles of course - go figure).
    Are there any reset buttons that perhaps my Oil Change place missed for this just before the 36,000 change?
    Is this a way for them to get you in and get a diagnose becasue it will cost me money?? My sposue is not mechanically inclined and I dont' need this astronomic car repair bill right now! My car is NOT making any noices, no smells etc...runs fine the way it always has.
  • meandmymaxxmeandmymaxx Member Posts: 134
    The computer may have to run through a certain number of ignition cycles with the fault fixed before it will turn off the light.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    You are correct on that. It takes so many cycles over a few days.
  • kris66cakris66ca Member Posts: 1
    I'm sure this has been posted somewhere on this website, but I thought I'd ask again as I'm new to this site.

    For the last few weeks the tailgate back hatch would only open occasionally. Now it won't open at all. I have been googling this problem and it seems it could be a number of things.

    Something inside the latch itself is disengaged.
    Something called an accentuator ( not sure what this is)
    Fuse
    Solenoid

    I saw somewhere saying there is an emergency release latch inside the cargo area under the carpeting. I looked and couldnt find anything of that nature. Maybe it's under the spare?

    I have not got a few hundred $ for the dealer to fix it. I really need someone to tell me what it could be...where to look. Please someone advise me on what to try. I have friends coming from overseas soon, and it would be extremely embarassing to not be able to open the back of my car for their luggage lol

    Please advise where and what this accentuator is and if it could be a fuse, where this is situated for me to look.

    Thanks soooooo much for replies.
  • earljoeearljoe Member Posts: 1
    we recently purchased a 2008 Equinox with 32000 miles - great car except for 1 problem. The headlights (both) seem to sweat and have moisture inside that won't go away! We have had as much as 2-3" of water in there. We had a local mechanic look at them and he says he has never seen anything like it. They are not "leaking" (he could not find any cracks or leaks) but appear to be condensating - BUT after we go through a car wash or a wet/rainy day, more water seems to appear in the headlights. Its beginning to cause corosion on the bottom of the headlights. Has anyone had this and do you have a solution short of replacing them? There are air holes with covers and they appear to be ok (according to the mechanic)
  • pamt523pamt523 Member Posts: 5
    Well, I have had my car to the dealer twice. First time, of course could not duplicate problem.....2nd time it locked up on them but they replaced a part on iginition, but the problem is still happening. I hear a click when I know I can remove key.....what could that be?
  • sumr616sumr616 Member Posts: 90
    I've read about this on another forum as well- the problem was that the latch was not lining up properly with the metal bracket, so it would get "stuck". Some had their dealer fix it, but others fixed it themselves. It sounded like it was relatively easy, maybe do a google search on it, just a little adjustment. Probably only takes about five minutes.
  • rugbymomrugbymom Member Posts: 1
    No warning, really blew - burned plates, parts everywhere. Chevy rebuilt it - question, should I keep the car? I've seen posts on Edmunds indicating this is a common problem. Is a rebuilt tranny the same as the old one (so the original design is bad) or do you think they have fixed whatever causes 2008 transmissions to fail? And suddenly by the way, no slippages, no warning.
  • kpoticherkpoticher Member Posts: 1
    i have had nothing but problems with this car. My major problem right now is the bucking or jerking that my vehicle is doing when I am driving. I thought i got bad gas at first but I have tried different gas since and it is still doing it. Another thing the dealership that i take my car too says they cant do anything about it because there is no dash lights coming on. My rear wiper blade is not worked in over three and half months and they say the part is on back order.I took it in for a noise coming from the front tires and it still is making the noise and they are billing me for it. i have so many other problems with this car that it makes me never want to buy another chevy again. When i first bought this vehicle i loved it cause it ran good and now one problem after another and the dealership doesn't want to help me out at all.
  • kathyonckathyonc Member Posts: 1
    The battery light has started coming on when accelerating hard/going up a hill and stays on until I release the pressure on the pedal. No apparent impact to performance. Have had no prior problems. Replaced the battery last year. Took it for service and they said the alternator was on its last legs so we swapped out the alternator last week.

    Just got back from a weekend trip and the light is still coming on when accelerating hard only now, it's kicking off the cruise control and A/C. The A/C comes back on once the acceleration evens out.

    I'll be taking it back in for service this week but am hoping someone has had a similar experience or thoughts about this so I can go in armed with some information...

    Thanks!
  • mariekoeppmariekoepp Member Posts: 1
    Had the same problem with mine, in the shop right now, have had a lean code for over a year that the dealership could not figure out. Finally got so bad that they could get a different code on it, turns out that there are 2 gas tanks in our equinox and the fuel pump and transfer pump was going out. Oh and extended warranties will not cover it since it is covered by the powertrain/powerwrap 100,000 mile warranty.
  • steelers6paksteelers6pak Member Posts: 19
    Bucking/jerking are not likely from bad gas (almost never the issue); more likely you have an issue with the plug wires and plugs going bad. I have the Torrent (essentially the Pontiac Equinox) and it is such a common problem that GM issued a service notification; but only extended it to certain VIN's. I've gotten nothing but the run around from GM; I believe they just refuse to admit the extent of the issue. If you want the details check out the Torrent Forum, the issue is discussed extensively there under Lurching on Easy Acceleration.

    If you want a shot at GM doing it and eating the cost go to a dealer; it's no guarantee, but based on my experience if you don't you have no shot.

    As for the GM reps that troll these forums......useless; IMO just here to act as if GM cares.
  • radboilerradboiler Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 Equinox. The current milage is 94,000 miles. At or around 30,000 the warning light came on stating "Service Traction Control" and also, "Service Stabilitrac"? The car would "buck and Jump" when trying to pull out from a dead stop. The car had about half the power as usual. After 3 trips to the dealer they replaced the transmission. A few short months later the car did the exact same thing?? Took it back to the dealer and they replaced the valve body inside the tranny. The car was fine for about 3 months then the same problem occured again. Back to the dealership again!!! They then replaced the computer that controlls the transmission. Again the car was fine for about 2 days??? By this time I am FURIOUS!!!!! I took the car back and argued with the service manager and they fixed the car again??? He said that the tech that worked on the car "Forgot to program the new computer"???? After about a year in the shop and total of all the bills around $5000.00 dollars the car seemed "fixed"??? Luckily it was still under warranty!
    Now a couple years and 50,000 miles the problem has come back!!!!! What is the problem with this POS? The car is out of warranty and I don"t have $5k to fix the problem again! What can I do to fix it myself??? I was a mechanic for 15 years and feel like I can fix about anything but, I can't find any information on the "Stabilitrac/Traction Control system/ All of the service manuals that I have looked at say that the Stabilitrac and Traction Controll system is a propriatary (spelling?) dealer only system and wont disclose any information on it or how to diagnoss problems with it..... Please help!!! I am at my wits end. I can't even trade it off because of the tranny problems. If I do I will take a major loss because of mechanical issues.
    Please, Please, Please Help!!!!
  • pamt523pamt523 Member Posts: 5
    I have posted this about my key being stuck in the ignition - of course this doesn't happen all the time - I can turn the engine off, but the key won't turn past the accessory mode. Then I have to wait - sometimes a few seconds up to a minute (feels longer when it's 95 degrees out and be driven insane by the door open bell) and I have to wait for it to decide to release. I hear a little noise in the steering column - then I know I can continue to turn the key to off. Does anyone possible know the answer to this? I have had my car to the dealer twice and trying to work up the stamina to take it in for trip number three. The dealer doesn't have a clue, does anyone out there know? Is there a manual release that I can reach thru the hole in the steering column? Thanks for listening.
  • dragon671dragon671 Member Posts: 1
    Hello everyone I have an issue with my Equinox. It currently has 71,000 miles on it. My gas cap was broken and I purchased a new one and had the check engine light cleared. It's came back on and I've had the purge solied replaced. The error codes are showing its a large and small environmental leak. I've tried to research this but I'm not having any luck. I've called my dealer and they have no idea how to fix this. I've mentioned the EGR and that part is $285 and who knows how much labor to fix. My local garage isn't sure either because he's not worked much on the Equinoxs. We're trying to find out what the valve is that is on top of the canister that's close to the fuel tank. I can't really afford $285 plus ungodly labor right now. Any suggestions? I still owe 3 years on the thing and can't trade it in right now.
  • jmegsjmegs Member Posts: 1
    jnd1022 - did you ever resolve the issue?

    I have a 2006 Equinox LT, front wheel drive with 72,000 miles, and noticed it vibrates quite a bit at 70 mph, but even more at 80 mph plus.

    I added 4 new tires, thinking the vibrating was caused by older tires. The new tires did not help very much.

    I am wondering if it is a tie rod or an axle. Anyone have an idea?
  • jslebodjslebod Member Posts: 1
    Hey, my 05 is leaking like you stated--my question is. should I check the pipe on the drivers side or the passenger side? My problem sounds very familiar to yours, any feedback is greatly appreciated.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    jslebod,
    I apologize for your frustrations. Have you spoke with your dealer regarding your concerns? Please feel free to email me directly.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • mdawnsmdawns Member Posts: 1
    We are the 2nd owners of our '06 Equinox AWD. Purchased it in Aug 2011 with 61K miles and have put not quite 4k on it. On December 23, 2011 we noticed it driving funny, it felt like it wasn't wanting to shift into overdrive. So we took it to our local transmission repair shop, they had the car until after Christmas (5 days total) and said it was most likely a Chevy computer issue that they can not diagnose; so we took it to a local Chevy service shop. The put it on the computer and said it was the purge solenoid and fixed that and sent the car home. That might have needed fixed but it did not solve the shifting problem. We finally got it back to them and told them they didn't fix it in the first place and we needed them to look at the problem we are noticing. They drove it for about 50 miles and had the computer attached; noticed it went through all of the gears but the computer told them the casing around the rear drive shaft was broken. We got a quote of $1,500 to repair.

    We have had this car for 4 months, and are stuck having to put a huge amount of money into getting it fixed when it's a part that would have originally been covered under the original drivetrain warranty. Is it possible for Chevy to offer any assistance? We still have 35k miles before we hit 100K - the drive shaft should not have gone bad already!

    Anyone else experience similar problems?
  • sprichard1sprichard1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 Equinox also, and it is in the garage now having the same problem and it only has 80 thousand miles, I actually took it to get a oil change and the staff said that my carrier baring was going bad and made me an appointment to get it fixed, they did not fix it, I drove it in the garage with no noises or problems and ended up having it towed home, I contacted the owner of the garage and he had it towed to another garage, well now they are saying that the carrier baring, 2 U joints and the driveshaft is bad. I don't know what to think. The current mechanic said that the driveshaft shouldn't have been removed because there not made to take apart, I don't whether the first garage tore it up taking it out or if it was messed up to begin with. I hadn't had any problems w/it untill that day. I am curious if any others out there are having similiar problems.
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