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Comments
Jay
PS What's with the too large diameter diesel pump nozzles I've been encountering at some stations? Is this a sign of non-low sulfur fuel? My dealer told me that BP consistently offers high quality diesel. Any comments?
That's a new one on me. Did VW change the filler neck on the new TDI's? My '00 model has a good 2" wide opening and I've never met a pump nozzle that wouldn't fit. Diesel nozzles have always been larger than gas (or supposed to be) so that gassers mistakenly fill-up.
The diesel fuel itself is not any different than the other diesel pumps (same underground tank).. but you may find that the large-diameter pump nozzles will have a tendancy to "spit back" at you and generally make a mess. The TDI filler-neck cant handle the flow.
EVERY fillup station I have ever been at has a small-diameter diesel pump somwhere... you just have to look for it. (I guess that is one of the learning experiences of owning a TDI...we all have to go thru it at least once)
XM Radio is pretty terrific. Fit & finish on the car is superb. Just wish gas mileage would improve. Any suggestions out there?
Suggestions? I dunno, 37mpg for non-highway driving doesn't seem too bad. I'll be you'll be closer to 40mpg after break-in. Are you coasting in gear? If you coast in neutral you'll burn more fuel. Makes a difference in stop-n-go. Also how much idling you're doing. You get zero mpg at idle.
It is also known that it is a good idea to concensesly think about your engine as you break it in. It is very important to use driving habits which encourage the piston rings to seat during the first 10,000 miles or so. Folks who actually MEASURE the engine-compression have shown that getting the rings to seat will produce the best compression...which directly equates to better efficnecy.
On the other hand, driving habits which cause the cylinders to "glaze" may keep the rings from sealing properly..if at all. This would be an inefficent engine throughout its useful life.
There is no "silver bullett" to squeezing the best MPG out of your TDI... but a lot of little things can add up in a big way. Your driving-habits are the #1 contributor (or detractor) for MPG.
You did not mention which xmission you have on your TDI... Obviously, a manual xmission allows much more driver control over the power-transmission to the pavement.
If you DO have manual xmission, you should NOT be using the throttle at all when starting from a stop. Let the torque do the work. If you "drive the torque", you will find the best MPG numbers.
Wait a sec. Can you remove an insert from the fuel filler tube? Will this void the warranty? The local "super" gas station has the large diameter filler nozzle even though the pumps are obviously intended for cars, not trucks. (The BP, which I prefer, has a narrow nozzle which is no problem.)
Note on break in: the Fred's TDI website has specific recommendations for breaking in the TDI engine. You've got to load the turbo with full throttle once in a while, for example. Check it out. I really am getting ~50 mpg at 63 mph.
Jay
My TDI has the "insert" removed when I picked it up from the dealer.... so some folks may not even know their TDI had an "insert" if the dealership removed it before they took their TDI home.
and 05 passat TDI, and very much recommend that setup.
apparently we'll need a new term for what the new jetta TDIs may need regarding their fuel neck: fuel-filler-neck-insert-ectomy?
i hear the new Benz CDIs have had these inserts too for 05 and 06.
as for looking into the filler pipe of an 06 TDI, i've done it and i see no filler-insert: 06 NB TDI. that's an A4. the 06 jetta TDI is an A5 and the "jetta tdi special editions" reportedly have some differences compared to the earlier A5 jetta tdis has anyone seen a special-edition-tdi yet? the local dealer has gotten a few but they are sold the day after they arrive, despite the $3k MSRP increase, or whatever it is.
i'll look into a special-edition-tdi fuel-filler-neck as soon as i can and will report here what i see. also i'll ask the dealer to remove the filler-neck-inserts if they are there and if i am buying...
One comment - DO NOT USE CRUZE-CONTROL DURING YOUR LONG TRIP. Your engine is still wearing in and running at constant speeds for any length of time is NOT good for breaking in an engine. Instead, vary your speed every 1/2 hour or so and sprinkle in some bursts of full-throttle accelleration.
They are a bit differant from a standard tire, but the were developed in Iceland.
Please explain NOT using the throttle when starting from a stop! (It is a manual transmission.) Tried "driving the torque" but didn't get anywhere.
Also, live in the hot South where A/C is a must. Does that have much affect on MPG?
Sure does, especially in city driving or idling. I've measured my fuel injection quantity at idle with a VAGCOM and turning the A/C on increases fuel burn by a good 25%. Doesn't really effect it much on the highway, but around town it's obvious.
Well, The TDI engine has soooo much torque that there is rarely any need to touch the throttle while enguaging the clutch. Only AFTER the clutch is enguaged should you start to apply throttle.
In stop-n-go traffic where you are only moving a few carlengths each time... you should not ever need to touch the throttle. With the TDI, it is very easy to enguage the clutch and even shift into 2nd gear and let the idle speed of the engine pull you with traffic.
Not only is this a better way to drive a manual xmission...it will maximize the life of your clutch. (I have never- EVER had to replace a clutch on over 6 vehciles each with more than 120K miles)
The above technique takes some practice and patience... do not expect to "speed away" from a stop... but that is how you conserve fuel. Accelleration should be soooo smmmooottthh that a blindfolded passenger could hardly tell you have started moving.
I cannot explain it any clearer than that.
top TDI geeks have verified that the TDI oil change intervals are quite conservative - the oil usually lasts much longer than 10k miles. many high-end cars do not recommend the first oil change until 15k or more miles!
kitty9, yes the AC has significant effect on mpg, but nowhere near 25%. 10% max. on my 2003 the mpg would drop from about 48 mpg to 45 mpg with AC in use - on the highway too.
jchallenger, certainly bring the car back to the dealership, or maybe better yet, a second dealership. if they cannot repro the problem i recommend asking to trade vehicles with the service manager for a day or two, whatever it takes so that person will drive your car for an extended time so as to investigate the problem.
additionally there are data-recorder devices that can be plugged into OBD port, logging all the ECM data including AC information such as compressor duty cycle.
also your car may have an "AC cutout switch" that is malfunctioning - not sure if the TDIs have these - but it is a switch that disengages the compressor at full throttle so as to get more torque to the wheels.
HOWEVER... if you are unfortunate enough to encounter an OIL related failure... VW is well within their rights to refuse to cover the ENGINE. It is VERY unlikely that you will encounter OIL related failure. (Unless you do not use the proper oil specified by VW for your TDI engine!!)
kitty9 uses the TDI mainly in the city. 10% is probably high for highway driving, but when just idling the A/C raises fuel quantity by nearly 25%. I've had the VAGCOM hooked up and measured it. On the highway, it barely changes the fuel burn by turning A/C on. The engine is more efficient at higher rpms so the A/C doesn't drag on it as much.
sebring95, thanks for the great points. my 05 goat mpg meter switches into "gallons per hour" mode at idle - and just like your vag-com showed on your VW, the goat fuel meter shows a significant increase in gallons/per hour after i switch on the AC. i think it goes from about .75 to .9 gallons per hour. i'm not sure if the idle speed increases however, probably it just uses more fuel to maintain the same rpm. (stickshift).
peebs, good points re the warranty & oil!
I just noticed driving in the rain today that the wiper on the drivers side occasionally will go too far, actually slightly past the edge of the windshield and hit the support bar in the upper left corner (looking out the windshield). Why would this happen, shouldn't the wiper motors be set so that there would be no possibility of the wiper going past the windshield? It doesn't go far enough to catch on it, but enough to make a noticeable noise when driving with the wipers on, so annoying. Is there anything I can do to fix this problem without getting the dealership involved.?? Any help would be great.
Thanks
Thanks
My gut level response (from your analysis) is it is a matter of managing expectations.
First off, there are NO (temperature) technical specifications for either the front and/or the rear or the front in comparison to the rear and vice versa. You can draw some types of hypothesis from this temperature difference (100 degrees higher in the rear than front)They of course may or may NOT be problematic. (as an aside, I dont even know what the temperatures are of my combinations or whether or not my rears are 100 degrees hotter or not)
2. dealers (smart ones anyway) usually want to take care of their customers. So when they have a issue, concern, gripe in the worst case, they will "throw parts" at it under "goodwill" in lieu of a "spot on" diagnoses." Of course most folks are familar with dealers occasionally misdiagnosing problems. Indeed the corrective measures did NOT solve the operating condition you observed.
So the KEY question/s: on the old pads, rotors, and calipers did they show any signs of abnormal wear? My guess is probably not.
Next, since we drive a front wheel drive and engine combo, all the weight is (normally) handled by the fronts. So in design VW put in proportioning valving to retransfer the stopping power to the rears. This would tend to heat up the rears faster and hotter than the fronts. However in models past, this caused the rear pads, rotors, etc. to wear that much faster than the fronts. In some cases showed abnormal wear conditions. This was corrected and rear pads (depending on conditions and how driven of course) can last 100-120k.
Best of luck and let us know how it comes out!
As for your glowplug issues, this is very common if the connector-tips on the glowplugs are allowed to corrode.
Best-case, you would just need to replace the failed glowplugs.
Worst-case, you would need to replace the "glowplug harness"
Also, I still have a P0118 Error Code: Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input. Anyone have an idea about what I can do to remedy this (or shold I even bother with it?)
Thanks
YES! You should "bother" with it. If the onboard computer thinks that the engine is not running at the proper temperture, it will alter the injection and timings. This - inturn - will impact your MPG. Some people have reported a SIGNIFICANT reduction in MPG while this sensor is sending faulty signals.
I would bet that you are NOT getting over 50MPG right now.
You're right about the mpg, the last 6 tanks (2862 miles)have averaged 48.923 mpg, so I'm not over 50. But that's about typical for what I've had on the car since I bought it.
Any idea about where the drain holes exit the car?
Thanks
and it solved the problem of the check engine light
being on all the time, with a code of glow plug number 1.
The harness is about $60. Installation is ....easy, if you
move a bunch of parts. I cut the old harness, and spliced in the new one - no engine codes so far.
..pat ('06 TDI Jetta)
my '06 Jetta TDI, and will post details.
Right now, it works on the bench, and I have drilled
some holes, after fit-checking with a lot of cardboard
cut-outs. Primary use will be gps nav, wireless internet
for traffic conditions, some OBD engine monitoring,
and maybe mp3 playing. Detials shortly.
..pat
That same website has all the info you need pertaining to your "coolant temp sensor" and the various colors. (including step-by-step instructions on how to change it)
Do some searching on the web with a good search engine such as www.dogpile.com or www.alltheweb.com
Here is the link to How to Clean Sunroof Drains
Here is a link how to replacecoolant temp sensor
Another link to replacing a temp sensor in TDI engine
Here is link to somone
giving away a new temp sensor
EXTREEMLY IMPORTANT - Do not add any antifreeze besides "G12" to a VW. Do not beleive any antifreeze bottle that claims to be compatable.... it is NOT.