VW Jetta TDI

bpeebles · October 2006

Switching to another brand of oil should be of no concern. (If you are certain it meets VW specs)

As for your question about unhooking the 2 hoses from the fuel-filter.... yes, you may get a splash of fuel from the hoses when you disconnect them. It is a good idea to have a shop-rag under them to catch any spillage. I would expect no more than a teaspoons worth.

I usually "work" the ends of the hoses off until they are *almost* free, then I am ready to deal with any spillage better when they do come off. Besides, just yanking on the hoses may break the plastic nipple off of the thermostatic return line. (the one with the mickey-mouse clip... you should see what I mean when you see the mouse-ears sticking out 8-)

Dont forget that diesel fuel is NOT as flamable as gasoline. It is more like spilling a little engine-oil.

bugworks · October 2006

I just bought an automatic 2001 vw jetta with very similar problems to the one you talk about in your message. Won't go into reverse until the rpms increase or I fiddle with the the shifter in and out of reverse. (That might just be coincidence.) Less frequently the transmission drops hard when I quickly pull out from a stop. Have you had any luck figuring out your problem? Any info would be great

csm · October 2006

I went to the VW dealer yesterday to order a fuel filter, and while there, asked him about what oil they sold for my '03 TDI, and he wanted to sell me Castrol's 5W30 or a BMW product. He said that they put 5w-30 in the '03 TDI's. The Castrol container listed approval for both gas and diesel engines, but it did not specifically say TDI. The Catrol Synthetic 5W40 product container specifically mentions VW TDI - but the dealership didn't use that. I repeatly brought that to the service mans attention, and his answer was that the 5W40 products were too heavy and clogged EGR's. Hummm....

csm · October 2006

I noticed that my new fuel filter came with a blue and a black o-ring. There are no instructions with it, and the service man didn't know. Is there anything that I need to be aware of with these two different colors?

Thanks!

gagrice · October 2006

I would be suspiicious the the service man. Many horror stories about VW dealers using the wrong oil. The reason so many TDI owners do their own oil changes. They plan to keep the vehicle a LOOOOONG time.

bpeebles · October 2006

You are correct to be asking about what that dealership told you. 5W30 is not correct for any TDI engine.

The main thing is to READ THE SPECIFICATIONS on the bottle. Dont expect to see "TDI" on the bottle... you have to look for the VW505.xx specification.

His statement about 5W40 clogging EGRs is bogus. Do you not find it odd that Volkswagen themselves have not made that statement? Be wary of other statements that dealership tells you.

The 2 little O-rings are intended to replace the existing O-rings on the thermostatic controller. (plugged into the top of fuel-filter) When you replace the fuel-filter, you SHOULD NOT remove the hoses from the thermostatic controller. Instead, just pull out the "micky mouse" clip (looks like little micky mouse ears) and then pull the thermostatic controller straight out of the top of the old fuel filter. You will see the 2 existing O-rings on the part you pulled out of the fuel-filter. Match the colors to the locations of the existing O-rings.

I also find it interesting that you say the service man "did not know what the O-rings were for"... but he seemed to know which oil was correct for your TDI. It is scary that some folks blindly let that dealership maintain their TDI engine :surprise:

csm · October 2006

Thanks Mr. Bpeebles... That info on the little O rings is just what I needed. You can believe that I have not taken that service mans advice, but nevertheless, I was shocked at his advise, because it goes against all the stuff I have been reading for the past year that that I have owned this TDI. I have noticed all the horror stories concerning dealerships etc, and now have experienced it first hand.

I have my diesel purge equipment all made up and ready to go!

I went to an auto parts place and did find Castrol 5w40 Sync. and it does list VW TDIs on the label. I did not feel comfortable with that though and have ordered Delvac 1 5W40 for my 505.00, which is what I have been using.

I was getting my filters at Wal Mart, the Fram/Mann... but Fram has changed to a look alike copy, so I scarfed the five Fram - Mann - filters that they had left, from among the other new ones @ 12.77 each, and when I got home and ordered oil and diesel purge from World Impex, I discovered that Impex sold the orginal Mann for $7, so I got one, and am taking the inventory of Frams back to Wally World. But a heads up to anyone who is getting the Fram product - check the contents - it could be a newer less quality filter. It certainly isn't a Mann.

bpeebles · October 2006

You are quickly becoming a wise TDI owner. I also noted that the Fram oil filters at WallyMart have been "cheepened". They used to actually be "Mann" (from Germany)... but the latest stock say "Made in koera".

Besides, as you suggest, real "Mann" filters can be had fo $7 elsewhere. (plus shipping)

Dont forget to "prefill" your fuelfilter with fuel before trying to start the engine. Otherwise, you could put about 30,000 miles of wear on your starter trying to get the engine running.

Also, be cognizant of installing the oil-filter rightside up. This keeps the oil from draining back into the engine when turned off. The cap for the oil filter is PLASTIC (use strap-wrench or leather belt to remove)... only tighten it by hand till it stops. It is the O-ring that makes the seal... not the torque.

Let us know how your diesel-purge process works out.

dascorcor · October 2006

Hi Everyone,

I was hoping that someone could help me out with my Jetta. Just last weekend, the car started having the following problem: the car would accelerate and shift well through the second gear, but when it should shift to third gear, it would not shift and the tachometer would just keep climbing with no acceleration taking place (this is around 40-50 MPH) but if the tach were red lined for a while, it would all of the sudden shift. And also, while it was "stuck" in second, the tach would be very jumpy when you press the accelerator.

So I took it to the dealer. Now, I had had a similar problem before, and they replaced the Mass Air Flow meter and the car ran great. So the dealer gets back to me and says that the IAT sensor is bad ($400), and that I need a new transmission ($5000!). So I told the dealer no way and got my car back. My Dad took the diagnostic log (which said Manifold Temperature Sensor Circuit Fault along with two faults with the trans - Gear Monitoring and Torque Converter lock-up clutch) to his VW dealer, and the dealer looked up the code and it said that I needed a new MAF.

So does anyone here have any experience with this sort of problem? Could the MAF be causing my problem, or do I really need a new trans? I've read that the MAFs on these VWs can be flaky and need replacing multiple times.

Also, as a boneheaded question, I wanted to check the transmission fluid level, but for the life of me, I couldn't find the dipstick! I feel like a dipstick, but could someone tell me where it is located on my car? I removed the air filter box and the engine cover, but still couldn't find it.

Thanks for any help you can offer and I apologize for the long post.

sebring95 · October 2006

I don't know a lot about the tranny problem, but it sounds more like a sensor issue than anything. But I'd do some more research/diagnostics before replacing a transmission. If it turns out you do need a transmission, I'd look at having your rebuilt instead of using the dealers "remanufactured" program. The remanufactured program is fine, but very expensive. You'll have to check around for a reputable transmission shop (i would avoid Aamco at all cost) and speak to them. Try to find one that knows VW transmissions. I helped a friend locally get her rebuilt (a gasser) by a local shop I know. They had experience with VW trannys and knew exactly what was wrong. The did a full rebuild of her transmission for less than $2,000 out the door.

As for the dipstick...there is no dipstick. More and more transmissions do not have them. The only way to check/change the transmission fluid is with a VAGCOM where you can monitor than fluid temperature and visibly check through a plug that can be removed.

phoenixjetta · October 2006

I have a 2006 Jetta TDI with 5000 miles on it and it recently left me stranded because it wouldn't start. I had shut it off but then noticed the rear window was still down so I turned the key back to the on position to roll up the window and ... nothing. I then tried to start it ... nothing. The daytime running lights would come on and the dome lights but the electronic dash display was completely blank. I had to have roadside assistance tow it to the nearest dealer, where it sat for two days because it was a weekend. Now the dealer calls me and says the car starts fine and they can't come up with any reason for the problem. I am very frustrated, especially now that I've heard that these cars are known for electrical problems.

bpeebles · October 2006

To roll up (or down) all windows, simply put the key in the drivers door and turn it. You can use this tecnique to close the sunroof too. Also, I beleive the electric windows (and sunroof) will operate until you open a door after shutting down the system. (without the key in ignition)

You may wish to read the owners manual cover-to-cover so you become familear with all of the gadgets, features and operational quirks of a European automobile.

-------------------

As for your alleged electrical problems.... You may have inadvertantly done somthing else that made it appear there was a problem. (Like not putting automatic xmission into "park" if that is the kind of xmission you have)

There are some other conditions that may cause the symptomes you describe. Unless you can pinpoint the sequence of events that led up to the situation... there is not much help we can offer.

beeneverywher · October 2006

I have a 2006 jetta, we just got under 2 months ago I have 9700 miles on it and everything is going good so far. I hope your car works well for you I had know idea there were electrical problems.

Jim

www.beeneverywhere.com

davidh6 · October 2006

am considering buying a Jetta TDI and prefer to drive manual/stick shift ....any advice given the narrow RPM range ?

bpeebles · October 2006

You need to drive a TDI and your concerns over a "narrow RPM range" should abate.

The TDI engine pulls from IDLE like a tractor... there is no need to even touch the throttle to pull away from a stop. You will find that most of your driving will be under 3000 RPM because of the wonderful torque that is available in that RPM range. In other words.... RPM is not required to get accelleration with TDI engine. The torque-peak on my TDI is about 1800 RPM. This is also the most econimal RPM to be driving at. (read...best MPG at 1800 RPM - which is about 55MPH)

If you are switching from a high-reving engine like Honda... you will need to retrain your driving habits. The Hondas I have owned needed to "wound up" above 2000 RPM just to get moving from a stop. (or they would stall out) This is totally opposate from TDI engine.

music287 · October 2006

I've got a 2006 TDI manual Jetta with about 5K miles. What I've noticed is that I don't/can't skip gears as I did on all my former gas manuals. I agree that the best mileage, i.e. high 50's!, is at 55 mph @ ~1800 rpm. I "settle" for ~53 mpg at 63 mph! Also, my wife, who is recovering from a left knee replacement says the clutch is very light and easy on her leg. I also notice that the shifter "snicks" into gears quite satisfactorily. Finally, the turbo, which needs to be "exercised" regularly, kicks in at ~1800 rpm. That thing provides any and all the acceleration a fellow could want.
This car is a winner!

Jay

davidh6 · October 2006

thanks . You misunderstand me ...I'm not concerned about the RPM point , I was simply wondering if I would be better off with manual or auto and was looking for advice . My preference is for manual but with the DSG maybe I'm "stuck in the mud " and should really consider the automatic ? Thanks in advance

ruking1 · October 2006

I have a 2003 with a 5 speed manual transmission. I would choose it again. The next in line would be the DSG, followed by auto transmission.

elias · October 2006

if you are ever considering "stickshift or automatic", then GET THE STICKSHIFT! compared to the DSG, the 5-spd
it's got one less gear but lots more than one more fun. i drive a 5-spd TDI and a 6-speed pontiac GTO.
comparing to the GTO the TDI's shift-throw & clutch-action are superior. but GTO clutch "take-up" is smoother moving away from a stop, even with the extra 250 ftlbs & 300 hp. also i understand the GTO clutch can take way more of a beating before it glazes/melts.
another family member has a beetle DSG TDI - I've driven it and strongly prefer the 5-spd stickshift.

sebring95 · October 2006

Preference really. From what I've seen the DSG has similar performance/economy as the five-speed which was always the big benefit of the manual. If you're just getting old and lazy (i'm getting close....) it's just a control thing really. If you LOVE manual transmissions....then you probably wouldn't be asking this question? Automatics are definetely getting better....

sean9 · October 2006

I agree with alot of people in this forum choosing the manual transmission over the auto. However my jetta has the auto dsg transmission basically because my wife drives the car more than me and needless to say a manual is not in her vocabulary. However the new auto tran is awesome the sports mode is great for city driving and shifts basically how i would a manual anyways. So as most people are saying it is personal preference, my advice go test drive both you will be amazed with both the tranys !.

csm · October 2006

I am preparing to do this diesel purge on my '03 A4 Jetta TDI, and I have something that I am not clear about. When I unhook my "fuel out from filter" line, as well as my "fuel return to filter" line, both will leave the opening on my fuel filter itself. I don't have to worry about the fuel from the tank continuing to be pumped to the fuel filter while I have it disconnected? I can't understand in my thinking how I can leave these two openings on the filter. I looked at another example of purge directions, and it said to only connect a hose to the two open ends on the fuel filter if the car had a "lift pump." That was on '04's and later I believe it said.
I know this has to be a simple thing, but I am not just understanding it properly I think. Can you lay my fears to rest and get my thinking straightened out? Thanks!

bpeebles · October 2006

The 'modified' instructions for the diesel-purge process suggests that you place a short lenght of hose across the 2 nipples on the fuel filter. This will seal off any possibility of leakage.

The newer (pumpe duse) TDI engines have a lift pump in the fuel tank that would pump fuel out of the exposed nipples if this short length of hose is not installed.

The short length of hose will simply re-route the fuel from the lift-pump back to the tank.... exactly what happens when your engine is running anyway. The fuel is CONSTANTLY passed thru the filter and fed back to the tank in a big loop.

highender · October 2006

hi bpeebles:

can you explain what " engine running away " is ?

bpeebles · October 2006

The term "engine running away" usually means that the engine RPMs go uncontrollably high to the point of the engine overrevving and catastrophically flying to pieces.

In the context of a diesel engine, since there is no throttle valve on a diesel engine, any crankcase oil which leaks into in the intake manifold can fuel the engine and cause runaway. After all, a diesel engine RUNS on oil. One situation that can cause this on TDI engine is if the oil-seals on the turbocharger leak enough oil into the intake to fuel the engine.

The VW TDI engine has several "safetys" to prevent runaway. The main safety is a butterfly valve in the intake tract that slams shut when you turn off the ignition key. (This is also sometimes called the anti-shudder valve.) In the event of TDI engine runaway, turning off the ignition key should kill the engine even if there is oil leaking into the intake manifold because this valve will stop all airflow into the engine.

Remember - a diesel engine has no ignition system so there is no such thing as cutting off the power to the spark plugs to kill the engine.

csm · October 2006

This is a "Thank you" Mr. Bpeebles. I did the diesel purge, a fuel filter change, and an oil/filter change this afternoon, and the car is running great. It took me about 2 1/2 hours, for everything and that was because I was just taking my time and working through the purge and the fuel filter change for the first time.

I believe that the diesel purge really made a difference. It was running great before but seems to be noticeably smoother now, and and has more pick up. I will be looking for the MPG increase.

The car had 68,000 miles and I bought it with 50,000 and any kind of purge had not been done to my knowledge before so I am thinking that this was a good thing to do at this time.

At any rate, I thank you for the assist in advise in the matter!

loboo14 · October 2006

Hello all, I have a 2006 TDI with 32000 miles on it (god, I love driving it!!), anyway, two days ago it started to give me some push back trying to shift into 3rd and 4th, 1st, 2nd and 5th are fine, but the other two gears feel like they are "closed" or like I don't have the clutch engaged. First I thought, transmission fluid, but alas, not being much of a mechanic, I couldn't even find the fluid container.

This is my first VW, maybe they don't have them :surprise: Any suggestions?

I love the TDI, the dealership I could do without....

Thanks for any and all help

dragnbaron · October 2006

you know, i had the same kinnda problem within 4k miles. After a while it started to really get difficult to shift and driving down 287 in rush hour in nj my clutch stuck in 5th. Apparently the pressure plate on the clutch popped off and it bent some of the stuff inside. I got it replaced but then the transmission had to be replaced. After that all was fgine and dandy, but i've only heard that happen in early mileage 06's.

highender · November 2006

thanks for the detailed esplanation,,

jefe7 · November 2006

Greetings! First time Jetta owners, have 06-07 Jetta TDI. Good news is ULSC fuel now at local pumps . . . We want to burn Bio-diesel and B15 and B20 is available locally. The question(s) we have is whether Bio-diesel is "good" for motor and if it will add lubricity to the ULSC fuel? Dealer says B5 o.k. only. Should we use additives? (I always used BioBor antifungal for marine applications). Finally, at 1500 miles, motor is noticeably noisier. We have not worked motor hard, trying to comply with manual that suggests reduced speed only. Any direction on these issues GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!

ruking1 · November 2006

I would stay with ULSD to establish a base line and starve off any consistency of fuel issues: especially during the warranty period. In theory, the new ULSD has lubricity additives. Hence the VW no additive recommendation.

I personally use Primrose 405C, which is a combination of cetane booster, H20 emulsifier,lubricity agent, detergency, rust preventative. You will most likely need a winter additive if conditions warrant, for fuel gel prevention.

If you do decide to use bio diesel, be advise to look into specific bio diesel fuel and winter additives.

Upshot: Now that you have done your mild 1500 miles "reduce speed" break in; go slightly aggressive to aggressive. Do NOT baby the engine.

You are trying to so called "balance" a number of items; some of them are diametrically opposed.

One of the big ones is systems longevity: i.e., of the turbo, engine and transmission. You will not get full compression till app 50,000 to 60,000 miles. So you are trying to establish good habits in operation.

As a long term goal; there is really no reason for example why with proper care and operation; your diesel should not be able to go 500,000 to 1,000,000 miles. This of course is way beyond what most folks will go.

For the over all discussion (all you ever wanted to know about break in and even beyond) you might want to do a "break in" search or some such combination of words on www.tdi.com.

Best of luck and congradulations!!

sean9 · November 2006

Does anyone know if the front grill from the GTI can be put on the 06 Jetta TDI? Unfortunately someone crashed into my brand new car :mad: and insurance is paying for a new front grill. Just curious if I could put the GTI grill on as it looks much nicer? I am thinking fog lights may be an issue?? ... anyways off to the body shop tomorrow ,,, :sick:

sean9 · November 2006

Ok, I know I have asked this question before. But is there anything I can do to get the temp up on my 06 Jetta TDI? It is about -13deg F here with the wind chill -40!! And nedless to say the only thing that keeps me warm driving is the heated seats. VW doesnt seem to make a winter front for the car to reduce some of the cold air on the rad, is there anything else I can do?? :confuse: And with about 2-3feet of snow already this year thank god for my new winter tires and rims......

sebring95 · November 2006

I'd say make your own cover. I don't see those kinds of temps, and hopefully never do

cosmo · November 2006

I know this will only help a little, but if you wait until the temp gauge actually begins to move up before you turn your heater on, the engine will warm up faster. The heater core acts like a radiator, and that's not a good thing when you want the engine to heat up quickly. That's why the thermostat blocks coolant flow through the radiator until the engine is at operating temperature. I have a 2004 Passat TDI, and once the engine reaches operating temperature, the heater handles zero degrees F outside temps just fine. Now a question: I also have a 2006 Jetta TDI Package 0 with an electric auxiliary heater that is standard equipment. It begins warming the interior immediately, no matter what the engine temp if the outside air is <80 deg F. Since you have heated seats, you must have Package 1 or Package 2, and you must not have an auxillary heater. Did Package 1 and Package 2 versions not come with standard auxillary heaters?

bpeebles · November 2006

As you have found out... the TDI engine will NEVER EVER warm up when the outside temp is below -10F and you have the heater fanspeed at full-blast.

Windchill has ZERO effect on inanimate objects so you can ignore it....windchilll was invented to help warm-blooded mammals understand the speed that heat will leave their skin.(If you are driving at 65MPH and stick you arm out the window...the windshill factor is more like -80)

Turning off the heater does allow the engine to warm up faster... but the engine temp will come right back down as the fanspeed is increased. (you pull more heat out of the engine) so...this idea is not very benificial.

There is only so much heat available....and you need to "balance" it by using just enough fanspeed to warm the interiour without pulling all the heat out of the engine.

There are several things you can do to improve the situation.... but the efficency of the engine is the real culprit.

*) Use pre-slit 1/2inch pipe insulation cut to lenghts on every-other grill-slat. (I am not sure if this trick works on the 2006 grille)
*)DO NOT cover the intercooler intake.
*)Reduce fanspeed to reduce how much heat you are pulling from the engine.
*)You may be able to use "recirculate" mode to keep the heat inside the car... but beware that can cause fogging of the glass.
*)Consider installing an engine heater like TDI-heater
*) Thank your favorate Deity that you have heated seats!

sean9 · November 2006

Thanks for the suggestions. I do have package 2 with my car and it does have the aux heater, as well as the TDI heater mr bpeebles has mentioned. When it is close to -40 the TDI seems so warm up ok in city driving as long as you balance the heater like you have mentioned. However it is the highway that really cools the car right down. I will have to try the pipe insulation and see how it goes. When it is this cold you have to plug the TDI heater in otherwise the car will not start. The cold snap here in Canada is supposed to dissapate on Thursday!! Thank goodness BUUUURRRR I guess this is one minor down side of driving the diesels in this climate, I still wouldnt trade it in for anything

tu754z · November 2006

Quick question.

Just bought a 2002 Jetta TDI Auto (sorry bad leg made me give up stick) with 82K from a VW dealer for 13K do you think that is a good deal? The car is a clean 1 owner with all the VW service stamps in the book for all service except the 80K. Clean carfax only thing I can see that they touched up was some bumper dings. Tires 60% brakes 50% all seems to work and runs very well. I knew that the car needed the 80K service and that includes the timing belt. They agreed to do the 80K service including the timing belt and water pump pulleys and all included in the 13K price. I have been looking for a while and this seems like the best car that I could find in great shape having what I would call normal wear. Came with guaranteed state inspection and 30-day 1000-mile warranty. KBB and Edmonds vary so I am not sure that I got a good deal what do you think did I get a good deal.

Thanks in advance.

BTW they want $1400 for a 2 year 24K warrenty that covers quite a lot. Engine, trans, driveline, electronics, turbo, glow plugs, cooling fan, a/c, quite a long list is it worth it.

robtdi · November 2006

driving at constant speed 65/70, upon acceleration, up hill or to pass,the engine seems to skip or hesitate. if i back off the fuel it resides but i slow down. almost feels like turbo it kicking in and out. it will only happen at higher speeds. going to dealer, need to tell them what is wrong and what to do

tanadking · December 2006

I purchased a used 06 with 30K miles. I've been very pleased with the car. However, one day I noticed very hard shifting in the low gears - almost if someone was bumping the rear of the car. Later that day and from then on, no problems, until today. Driving at about 35mph the car just went in neutral and the PRNDS began blinking on the display. I stopped, went back into Park then proceeded. The transmission worked, but the blinking continued. I'm calling the dealer tomorrow, but has anyone heard of such?

dl7265 · December 2006

Sorry if this is late But, a GLI will bolt up. GTI no.

elias · December 2006

i think the dsg has a 30k or 40k service required.
also i have heard of folks with problems with their dsg but our 06 beetle dsg has no prob so far, 19k miles.
in other news, 06 5-spd is already pushing 50 mpg at 5k miles. i've got a leadfoot and got 48 mpg with 03 5-spd but had not expected so much with the 06. woo hoo!

raymondl1166 · December 2006

Hi there we have a 2006 tdi jetta and read your posted message and tried it with the pipe insulation in the grill,not only does it look fairly good but my wife thinks the car is warmer?(her car) and by turning down the fan speed which i've being trying to tell her forever it get's a better heat.I think i will get that tdi heater also but i have questions about the hose's after awhile will they break down and have to be replaced?Up here in northern canada we need all the heat we can get.
Thanks for your suggestion
RAY

bpeebles · December 2006

It is great to hear that the pipe-insulation on the grille worked out for you. I have seen several other TDIs around here with the same "treatment" in the past week or so.

Again - if you get a warm day, just pull off the insulation and toss in the trunk. My rule-of-thumb is if I have to turn the heater off ... it is time to remove some insulation.

For many years, folks have been using some kind of heater to pre-heat the antifreeze on all kinds of engines. I have never heard of any problems with the hoses due to the heater. Lets not forget that the ENGINE HEAT is far more intense than any electric heater you could add to your engine.

The TDI heater is well-proven and should not cause any problems with your hoses. In fact, the hoses it comes with have "protective sheaths" on them where they may tend to rub against somthing. (look at the pictures on the website) It is a VERY well-engineered kit that installs with minimal hassle.

My TDIheater sure helps get some heat on that frosty windshield on cold mornings. (I NEVER EVER use an ice-scraper due to scratching of the glass)

PS: Dont forget to consider ordering a "plug protector" and "Heavy Duty Outdoor Timer" from the TDIheater website too.

WIthout a "plug protector" - you will find that Ice buildup on the plug will be a problem. (and the metal corrodes after a few years)

Without a timer - Your electric bills can get outreagous if you leave the thing plugged into power longer than 2-3 hours before starting the engine. The timer will pay for itself in one winter.

sebring95 · December 2006

My TDI heater has been on for several years and no problems. The hoses are all OEM quality and should last as long as any any other hoese. I only use it a few months a year, but completely worth the coin. Just make sure you install properly and use the VW coolant to top-off after the install.

beeneverywher · December 2006

we are driving our 06 jetta tdi to alaska in jan, although I have made the drive 5 time, never in the winter with THIS car. does anyone have any advise for me concerning the 2006 tdi. thanks Jim www.beeneverywhere.com

bpeebles · December 2006

The main issue when traveling from warm climate to cold climate in TDI is to ADD ANTIGELL TO THE FUEL.

The colder parts of the country sell "cold weather diesel" (cut with kerosene). With the great effency of the TDI, it is very possible to fill up with NON cold weather fuel and drive into -10F temps.

harrye · December 2006

Hello,
I have just been informed that i need a new engine for my 2000 jetta TDI. the pre-diagnosis was that there was most likely a problem with my turbo to manifold plumbing. Now it is the entire engine. i was wondering if somebody out there knows of a good (really good) diesel mechanic who i can turn to for another opinion on my vehicle and who can do the work on it. I'm looking for somebody who is both proficient with diesels, namely volks jetta's, and who is fair about pricing. i'm located a bit north of seattle near mount vernon. thank you, harry emerson

dl7265 · December 2006

40K service to the tune of about $400 :mad: . They do not tell you about that though,,,

beeneverywher · December 2006

yeah that is a bummer i live in alaska and the 40,000 mile cost over $700 but it is still cheaper than my 1 ton was. the 15,000 mile on that, was over $500. this is still a great little car. we are driving back to alaska in the morning from san jose with this little tdi we love the mileage. www.beeneverywhere.com

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