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When was your fuel filter last changed ? Sometimes diry diesel fuel will slowly clog up your fuel filter. After a while, the engine is starved for fuel, and shuts down. A simple fuel filter change will work, if it has not been changed....Really easy to do.....go to tdi problems
where do you live, and does it get really cold ? If your local temps drops below 40 deg, you may have gelling issues. This also causes problems in starting.
Check battery. Cold starting diesels uses a lot of power. You need a good battery.
glow plugs and intake manifolds could be issues, though in general, they are not.
We looked at but did not drive a 2004 Jetta as we ran out of time.
Dealer called this morning and said they would take a $1000 off the top with out even talking.
What it is: Certified VW used car Wheat and beige 2004 Jetta TDI, 42000 miles. Paint has two minor scuff marks, very small no body damage. Clear front end mask applied to paint. Rear plastic bumper has a puncture from the inside out and a slight scuff mark in the same area on the left side.
It has after market chrome rims so I’m assuming that it was owned by some in their twenties.
Asking $21999
Thought I might offer $20,000, give me $2000 for my 93 Explorer and replace the wheels with stock VW wheels.
I would like to see it the bottom line closer to $16,000 than $18,000, but then I’m cheap.
Thanks
BTW: There is no need to ever PAY for a "troubleshooting scan". Many autoparts stores will scan for the codes FREE OF CHARGE.
Of course, it is the SKILL to diagnose a problem using the results of a "troubleshooting scan" which costs.
My service report said the following: SPORATIC FAULT 01509999 0.30HRS PERFORM GFF FAULTS ARE SPORATIC TESTS SHOW COMPONENTS ARE O.K AT THIS TIME DTC P0183.
If anyone knows what the heck that fault code is that may be helpful.
Thanks
P0183 ==> Fuel Temperature Sensor "A" Circuit High
P0183 ==> Fuel temperature sender-G81 Interruption/Short to B+
If I recall correctly you have an 2006 TDI. The temparture of the fuel is "sensed" and that modifies the way the fuel injection signals.
You may just have a poor connection to the sensor. (I am not certain where the sensor is on the PD engine... The sensor on my TDI is inside the injector pump)
Also on a side note, made me laugh 2 older women in the service waiting room both had their TDI's in to get the interior heaters looked at because they were complaining that is was too cold in the cab. Both brand new cars. It has been -25C here last week, I tried explaining to them that having the heat maxed out and the fan on high on cold days will not help the interior warm up faster, instead turning the heat down and letting the engine warm up and run in a lower gear to get the rpms up is your only option. All i got was very suprised looks. :surprise:
As for the 2 women complaining about too little interier heat.... most folks do not realize that the interior heat comes from wasted heat from THE ENGINE. The sacrifice for high efficency is very little wasted heat.
That reminds me of a company that was "testing" an electric car here in Vermont a few years back. It was great in the summertime... but in subzero weather, it was waaayyyy too cold for anyone to sit in it for very long. They tried adding a propane heater to the electric car just to keep the occupants warm. In the end, they concluded that a battery-operated car is not feasable in cold climates.
Questions:
1)Should I wait to get the new TDI engine in '08 or is the '06 model perfectly fine (and will be for years to come)?
2)I am between a '07 Wolfsburg Jetta vs. '06 TDI Jetta. Price basically the same. Any advice? Thanks.
1. the lifespan of the new diesels are unknown because of the complexity of the exhaust system. noone knows if they are going to last, or if they are going to slowly wind down and have a normal 100,000 mile life expectancy which would serve no point if you are buying a diesel for it's longevity and fuel economy.
2. the diesel fuels are becoming cleaner. Diesel emissions are usually worse for people but better in the longrun for the environment than gasoline. There are new diesel fuels that are coming out that are actually cleaner than most standard gas, one of the best things sine taking lead out of gasoline 35 years ago. and the best thing about it is that it will work with all diesel engines, old and new. I believe that fuel is 97% ethanol free, or something like that. The other good thing is that (after time) you can run vegetable oil or used cooking grease in the car. This is what this 'bio' fuels are made from. bio-fuels consist of corn biproducts that are in liquid form. Normal gasoline bio-fuel still needs alot of oil in order to make it work in gasoline engines, diesels on the other hand need NO extra refinement and therefore saves the environment that much more.
3. The new inspection standards for diesels mean that any diesel vehicle pre-2007 needs no emissions check, they just check the lights, brakes, shocks, etc. (according to nj and ny emissions laws. Diesels cannot be sold in California yet) But the new diesels, with complexity of the exhaust will make the emissions test that much more rigorous, even harder than normal gasoline engine tests. If that fails you are basically screwed because to fix that exhaust will cost an arm and a leg.
4. Diesels get AMAZING fuel efficiency, normal 32-36 in city and a good 40-45 highway. I live in the most populated areas of new jersey and i get roughly 32 city and 43 highway, and that's with stopping every ten feet. My '06 jetta has only 13000 miles on it so the gas mileage can only go up. This saves the environment, even with dirty diesel fuel, and it also saves money on buying gas (although usually 20-30 cents more per gallon than regular unleaded) but also, some insurance companies give discounts for diesels.
5. diesels last forever. I had a few problems with mine. The clutch and transmission both went before 7000 miles and i had to get both replaced. i believe that was just a fluke because i have only read of one other person with that kind of problem. Since then i've had no problems. Diesels usually last a good 200-300 thousand miles without ever breaking down, and luckily they are less noisy than those old Mercedes and Buick diesels 20 years ago.
i recommend the diesels alot because of the fuel economy, cleaner fuels being released, and new peppiness added with the longevity of the engines. I love my '06 Jetta TDI and wouldn't trade it for anything, especially not the new diesels because of the complexity of them. It's faster than my '01 ford focus (not anywhere near as fast as my '87 toyota mr2), and cheaper in gas and insurance. That has evened out with the fact that there are no diesel mechanics around the corner. You HAVE to go to the dealership to get things done, and you must do it in a timely manner. A typical oil change costs about 80 dollars and they are a volkswagen trained service department so be prepared for lots of attitude and things not always done right the first time. Luckily, most dealerships have at least one German speaking person, and if you make an attempt to talk to them in German they usually work harder. (german culture... don't ask).
Good luck, and let us know what you do!
The 1.9 TDi engine has a fantastic reputation here in Europe and one of our local Taxi guys recently moved to new Skoda Octavia with the 2.0 TDi/DSG. His previous Octavia had the 1.9 TDi/105bhp/5-spd manual and had covered 400000+ miles in just over 4 years without anything other than routine servicing/consumables. He gave his old car to his wife as her daily-driver, 'cos it was worth zilch as a trade-in. Reported this previously in "Is This The Day Of The Diesel ?" topic. The 1.9 TDi, and now the 2.0 TDi, engines are loved by Taxi guys for their economy and bomb-proof mechanicals.........which is a good recommendation, I think. VW/Audi/Skoda/SEAT are now offering cars with the 2.0 TDi at 168 or 170 bhp, (depending on the brand), plus a mountain of torque.
The 1.9 TDi is not the world's quietest engine and "rattles" a bit on cold start. That smooths out on the move and I quite like the somewhat gruff engine note at warp-factor fun.
Apologies for rambling on about this but, as you will have gathered, I love these devices and am looking forward to seeing the '08 version of my car and hope it will have the 2.0 TDi/170bhp/6-spd DSG combination. If so - it's mine and I may never stop smiling.
Hope this helps a little.
Here's the link to the new estimates.
http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/calculatorSelectYear.jsp
In my case it would be 12 mpg.
1) NO HEAT IN THE WINTER.... If you live anywhere it gets below 10F, the heated seats are manditory.
2) If you live where it gets below 10F, consider a plug-in engine-heater on a timer if you expect to get any heat out of the engine within the 1st 20 miles of driving.
3) It takes well over 20,000 miles for TDI engine to "loosen up" and realize its full MPG potential. (I have measured 56 MPG with AC on!)
4) Expect to add Diesel-fuel-antigell in cold weather. (I add cetane-booster at EVERY fillup)
5) you MUST use the proper oil in the engine lest the camshaft will self-destruct. (quickie-lube places are not an option)
The weather here has been above freezing the last 2 weeks and the snow is melting fast. Took off the winter tires and rims today and put back on the all seasons. Spring is in the air. :shades: Cant wait for summer.
Thanks for the reply!
Some auto-parts places also will scan the codes for you free of charge. (like Autozone)
If you do get the codes, you can look them up HERE
Thanks for your help.
Thanks,
Charles in Indiana
They are relativly easy to check and replace. (apply a thin layer of antiseze to threads of ALL of them weather you replace or not.)
HINT: the Glowplugs are numberd the OPPOSATE of the cylinders. Thus GP#4 is nearest to the timing belt (passengers side of engine)
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=480733
It says on 47-16 of Bentley’s That I have to bleed the clutch slave cylinder since I have a manual transmission. The pic at Fred’s TDI, it shows the screw in the engine compartment. Is this messy when it’s done? Any hints to this?
The Bentley manual also points out that I have to use some sort of tool to apparently keep the brake pedal depressed when bleeding the brakes. Any hints on this? I guess a big stick stuck between the pedal and the seat? The how to doesn’t address this.
My biggest concern is that on 47-15, the Bentley manual states that I have to “perform a zero compensation of the brake pressure sender 1 (G201) with a scan tool” - Whatever that is. The how to makes no mention of it, although I realize he was a '00 I think, and maybe not a maual - so it didn't apply. What am I up against with this issue?
I am going to use a pressure bleeder that I will make or buy. I priced out the homemade one and it came to almost $50. Buying one is only $63 shipped complete. So I am waffling on what to do there.
Anyway, any help on these comments would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=480733
My biggest concern is that on 47-15, the Bentley manual states that I have to “perform a zero compensation of the brake pressure sender 1 (G201) with a scan tool” - Whatever that is. The how to makes no mention of it, although I realize he was a '00 I think, and maybe not a manual - so it didn't apply. Is this an issue?
It also says on 47-16 of Bentley’s That I have to bleed the clutch slave cylinder since I have a manual transmission. The pic at Fred’s TDI how to, shows the screw in the engine compartment. Is this messy when it’s done? Any hints to this?
The Bentley manual also points out that I have to use some sort of tool to apparently keep the brake pedal depressed when bleeding the brakes. Any hints on this? I guess a big stick stuck between the pedal and the seat? The how to doesn’t address this.
I am going to use a pressure bleeder that I will make or buy. I priced out the homemade one and it came to almost $50. Buying one is only $63 shipped complete. So I am waffling on what to do there.
Anyway, any help on these comments would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
As for your quesiton about it being "messy" when a bleeder-nipple is opened - I assume you will be hooking a HOSE to each bleeder nipple before you open it up... in which case, it is not messy at all as long as you keep the other end of the hose in the catch-container.
DO NOT EVER LET BRAKEFLUID GET ON A PAINTED SURFACE!!! It is a very good paint-remover. It is a good idea to have bucket with soapy water and a rag nearby so you can wash off any accidental spilalge of brakefluid.
Personally, I have always used a vacuum bleeder which is simply a hand-vacuum pump with a jar. (started out as a breast-pump when my 1st child was born.. LOL)
As long as you have a bentleys, that is considerd the "bible" when it comes to VW repairs.
Well, after going deeper into the How to logs, I found one piece about doing the "zero" thing and it seems that it does not pertain to what I am going to do, and no one else mentions it either.
Thanks for the info, and the tips, and I will let you know the good news!
p. s. Motive bleeder has been shipped and is on the way.
Some other questions:
1)The owner's manual states oil changes every 10K miles. Is that correct?
2)What is the best way to clean off the black residue around the muffler?
3)Any additives that anyone would recommend to help prolong the life of my Jetta?
Thanks again
Yes, you MUST use the proper specified VW505.01 oil. The 1st 2 OCI (Oil Change Interval) is at 5,000 and 10,000 miles. Therafter, OCI is every 10,000 miles.
There have been several reports of ruined engines by folks that used the wrong oil ONE TIME. The failure does not occour immedeately, but several thousand miles later. Make CERTAIN that only oil approved for for your Pumpe Duse TDI engine is used.
2)What is the best way to clean off the black residue around the muffler? I dont get any residue...but I would try hot-water and your favorite carwash detergent.
3)Any additives that anyone would recommend to help prolong the life of my Jetta? Many folks use an additive at every fillup. I use the PowerService brand available at Wallmart. (Grey bottle in summer and White bottle in winter)
The best way is to avoid it all together. You should try some different fuels and see if that helps. Crappy diesel smokes more which is causing the residue. I try to run BP Diesel Supreme and get zero smoke even at cold start. In me experience, premium diesel make the TDI runs better, quieter, improved mpg, and no smoke. Win, win, win, win.
As for additives to help "prolong the life" of your TDi; how long do you want it to last ? As I have reported elsewhere on Edmunds, our local taxi guy has recently given his wife his old Skoda Octavia 1.9TDi, (it's a Golf in a different body etc), and she is now using it as her daily driver. He bought a new one. The point of my ramble is that his old Octavia was just over 4 years old and had over 400k miles on it - with no breakdowns - just routine servicing and normal replacement of things like tyres. He did not & does not use any additives. So, how much over 400k miles do you want it to go for ? In my opinion, and that of others here in Europe, additives for fuel and engine oil are wasted money............provided you buy good fuel and the correct lube, (absolutely a must). The fuel system is designed to cope with ULSD, which we've had in Europe for some years. However, we don't see your very low temps over here so adding some anti-gelling agent to the fuel as appropriate may well be necessary but check what the fuel producer says about his fuel's low temp performance. Same with block heaters. Never even seen one advertised here, although I could imagine their usefulness in the northern Nordic area perhaps.
Anyway, that's the word from a UK TDi owner, (Skoda Fabia vRS, (based on the VW Polo), 1.9, 130bhp, 6-spd manual), who loves these engines. My car will likely be changed later this year and I'm finding it very difficult to get away from TDi even though the Honda 2.2 diesels are very good I'm not a big fan of the Accord or new Civic. So, likely new car will be a Skoda Octavia vRS with the 2.0 TDi - 170bhp/258lbft/6spd manual in either 5-door hatch or estate, (wagon ?), guise. Would love the DSG to go with it, but not offered at present.
Enjoy your TDi for many years to come. It was a good decision IMHO
alltorque what type of stainless tip on your exhaust are you using?
Thanks
Diesel First Aid is an excellent additive for winter weather, I have used it for 5 years, living in Vermont and never had a problem.
Best of luck to you with your new car
The reason that the "Classics" guys tend to short oil-change intervals is simply that the materials, tolerances, fuels, lubes and filters were all inferior to those available today. Fuels were "dirtier" and tolerances allowed much more fuel and combustion residue to be blown back into the oil sump - plus oil formulations that could only tolerate a relatively small amount of such detritus. When was the last time you ever heard of anyone needing to "de-coke" an engine ? Doesn't happen and that is courtesy of the advances made in those areas. This is not hearsay; I used to work in the Lubes Division of the biggest of the oil majors and have seen the evidence. The internals of modern engines running on modern fuels, (and especially ULSD), and lubes remain very clean throughout their long life.
Lube oils are formulated to meet the requirements of the engine manufacturers, (and those specs are tight), and putting in "Additives" may actually be detrimental. If you take a VW 505.01 spec oil and add something to it, it is no longer a VW 505.01 spec oil. Of course, if you want to change oil at 3,000 mile intervals please carry on - buy the right brand and you're helping toward my pension............so thank you in advance.
In response to sean9, (post 1301), the stainless tip on my Skoda exhaust is the factory fit unit : oval section with two outlets. This tip is not used on any other VW sub-brand and, even at Skoda, is only used on the Fabia and Octavia vRS models. Guess it's a marketing thing to distinguish these "sportier" variants. A picture would save a thousand words.
For the sake of the greater audience, you might want to SWAG some numbers to your above quote!
Correct specified oil is de rigor. Getting it "correct" for the VW is important if not critical.
My normal OCI for a 2003 Jetta TDI with 5w40 Mobil One Truck & SUV aka Delvac One 5w40, is at 20-25k. (calculated to take it to 25,000 after the warranty was over, but to be at 10,000 miles at warranty expiration!?) The engine has consumed 1/4 to 1/2 quart (8-16 oz) per 20-22k miles. So I tend to top up near the end of the OCI.
I just recently changed the air filter after 50,000 miles. Even at that it looked good to go to a min of 60,000 if not 80k miles. The oem recommendation of course is 40k. I routinely run this through the Mojave Desert. The dirty side was indeed sandy. I ran a hot soapy water terry cloth squeezed over the clean side (parts) and there was NO visible dirt.
So additionally, I was indeed pleasantly surprized when I changed the cabin filter at 91,000 miles. Yes it was dirty, but not overly so. The clean side was in fact still clean, and to make doubly sure I ran a hot soapy water terry cloth squeezed over the clean side and there was NO visible dirt.
NO NO NO NO -- I cannot say it enough times. Please do not perpetuate the old 3,000 mile OCI. Only people that get PAYED to change oil will tell you this.
The technology of motoroil has improved since the dark ages and can EASIILY go a lot more than 3,000 miles. You are wasting your $$ and the envrionment by draining oil that has more life in it.
From the perspective of the VW TDI engine... the 10,000 mile OCI has been PROVEN over millions of miles. There are some people that send oil-samples to be tested every 2,000 miles. This testing has shown that the VW-specd. oil can easiily go over 15,000 miles without breaking down.
IN FACT: This testing has shown that an engine wears MORE during the 1st couple 1000 miles after an oilchange. You would actually be creating MORE wear by changing more frequently.
Used to have a neighbour who did this every day and wondered why his exhaust system rotted away on a regular basis. This was back in the days of leaded/high-suphur fuels. Same guy had an Austin Maxi, (rather like an overgrown Mini, (original, not BMW 1-Series thing). Engine oil also lubed the gearbox and OCI was 6,000 miles. He used to change every 3,000 miles because "You oil guys are in league with the car manufacturers and only say it's a 6,000 mile OCI so that they can sell me a new engine every couple of years". And this guy was doing a PhD in something un-pronounceable, (he didn't get it, though).
Ain't folk wonderful ?
Love this Forum; so much more civilised than some others. Thank you all and have a great Easter.
NEW YORK — U.S. fans of the Volkswagen Jetta SportWagen now have a clue about when the vehicle is bound for their local dealership. The automaker on Wednesday set the timetable for the U.S. launch of the car, starting in August with the 2.5-liter Jetta SportWagen that uses the 170-horsepower 2.5-liter five-cylinder engine.
The launch of the base model will be followed with the 2.0T Jetta SportWagen that gets the 200-hp four-cylinder engine in the fall. In early 2008, the Jetta SportWagen will be available with a 2.0-liter clean diesel engine.
Prices have not yet been announced.
The SportWagen's standard features include air-conditioning, anti-theft vehicle alarm, cruise control, CD player, traction control, antilock brakes and eight-way adjustable front seats. A panoramic sunroof is optional.
What this means to you: Now you have a schedule in hand for when the sprightly SportWagen can end up in your driveway.
I would soo buy a jetta if it came with a panoramic roof. Couldn't they just make it optional on the jetta sedan!!
Also expect a 6CYL diesel for the Touareg SUV's refresh.
-Cj
I've heard how the jetta 2.5 has a raspy tone and has a quiet sound level when at speed. How is the TDI.
-Considering a Jetta 2.5/TDI or an Acura Tsx for next purchase and a Tom-tom.
-Cj
That is when the torque really shines.
Most 4 cylinder gasser engines need to be downshifted to attempt a pass.... not so with the TDI.
The TDI engine can pass with EASE by just applying some throttle. No need to downshift and the passing-power is right there.
Dont take my word for it, testDrive if you can get your hands on one.
Have you ever heard the old addage of "people buy horsepower... but DRIVE torque"? Any driving that requires a CHANGE IN SPEED is improved with torque....NOT horsewpower
PS: Your perception of torque -vs- horsepower may be misled... Are you aware that Horsepower numbers are DERIVED from torque and RPM? (In other words, HP and torque are not mutually-exclusive.)
And don't forget how easily you can add go-juice to the diesel. IMHO these motors are just adequate with stock power, but with a little tuning they can be quite fun to drive. I run fairly "swiftly" and still get mid-40's. My son has a RSX type S that I drive occasionally and I get a whopping 24mpg average driving it in my typical style. Granted it's a lot faster, but I don't get on it that hard. And that thing requires 2-3 gear down shifts to pull hills where my TDI will idle up them in 5th.
These cars are underpowered and have barely adequate torque.
The torque is a "saving grace", especially noticeable for passing uphill on highways. But even with the decent amount of torque, there is just no way to consider a jetta TDI as a "rocket". These cars are SLUGS. Awesome slugs though!
Acura TSX is a way different sort of ride to cross-shop - probably testdriving each vehicle will help you to decide.
Fwiw, the 04/05 Passat TDI is WAY stronger than any the jetta TDIs and is less of a slug.
247 ftlb for the Passat TDI!
So I think you do it a real injustice to call the TDI a slug, and some of those so called "rockets" rockets.