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VW Jetta TDI

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Comments

  • cosmocosmo Member Posts: 203
    I can't answer for the people outside. I don't hear it inside either of our TDI's.
  • dave48858dave48858 Member Posts: 1
    I'm new here too. so new I can't figure out how to make a new thread.

    No biggie, here's my situation . . .

    we bought a 2006 vw jetta tdi. fuel mileage is averaging 34-36 mpg. there is soot all over the rear end of the car. a 2004 gets 45-50 mpg with no soot. This isn't right, what's wrong with our car?
  • cosmocosmo Member Posts: 203
    You did not say whether your 34-36 mpg is for combined, city, or highway driving. You also did not mention if you have the 5-speed manual or the 6-speed DSG. But comparing a 2006 Jetta TDI with a 2004 Jetta TDI is an apples/oranges exercise. The 2006 is 9% heavier, has a 1.9 liter engine that puts out 14% more torque than the 1.9 liter engine in the 2004, and has exterior and interior dimensions more similar to a 2004 Passat than a 2004 Jetta. The 2004 was a nice little economy box, but the 2006 is a well rounded sedan. The EPA rated the 2006 Jetta TDI DSG as getting 7% less fuel mileage than a 2004 automatic and 14% less than a 2004 manual. With 18,000 miles on our 2006 DSG, we're getting 42-47 MPG in freeway driving (55-80 mph)and 36-40 mpg in city driving. That beats our 2004 Passat TDI with the 2.0 liter engine.

    The only time I notice soot on our cars is in the winter when the air is cold and humid. Of, course, that's when gassers' rear ends get covered with soot, too. You may try flooring it a few times to blow out any carbon build up in the intake manifold and turbo. Your exhaust smoke should be light gray, not black. You may also try one of the additives, such as Stanadyne Power Formula. Fuel quality may be an issue, but it should not be anymore. If your exhaust smoke is usually black, get your car checked out at the dealer.
  • dieselfitter1dieselfitter1 Member Posts: 42
    Your still under warranty! Get this checked out at the dealership immediately. I have a 2002 tdi and am getting 60mpg.(our gallon is 5/4 of a us gallon,so that works out to 50mpg us gallon. But anyway the back of your car shouldnt be sooty. Change fuel brands and see what happens.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    both our 06 TDIs get about 44mpg, that's with 95% highway or suburban driving. my 03 jetta wagon 5-spd got 48 mpg with the same sort of driving...
    all of my diesels have gotten soot on the rear bumper cover both before and after ULSD. it's less with ULSD though.
    03 jetta, 05 passat, 06 New Beetle DSG, 06 jetta 5-spd. it's harder to see on the darker colors of course. maybe your 2004 was a darker color? also have you been burning 500 ppm sulfur or the ULSD 15ppm?
    i "floor" my TDI 100% of the times I drive it on highways - i think this makes it smoke lots more.
    my 06 jetta (38k miles) is malfunctioning now. heavy knock on cold start and really difficult long-cranking hot-start. dealer will figure it out next week.
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Member Posts: 992
    I saw a white TDI for sale too. It must suck to have a white diesel car if you hate washing cars.

    I like washing cars but in s miami, we were under water restrictions for the longest time so everyone had a dirty car. I mean like black suvs that are mostly snow white...

    -Cj
  • plaaaaaneplaaaaane Member Posts: 32
    Am I able to take a 2003 Jetta TDI to California if I move there? It only has 93,000 and I hate to get ri of something that hasn't broken in completely yet.

    Well, the glove compartment door is broken in. Actually, just broken. It's going to cost $275. The armrest is broken again. 2nd time - probably $100. I'll get the check engine light outed. Its been a month and 1200 miles since my last visit to the dealer so it's time for it to come on again. I'll be danged if I pay to replace the front seats again.(The first time was under warranty.) Does anyone know what all those springs laying all over the floor under the seats do anyhow? Seats seem to be fine without them.

    But I don't want car payments. Can't really find anything else I'd like. Although my dealer let me drive a $55,000 BMW back to work (with sales guy along)and it was very nice. Perhaps they would do an even exchange... that way they could get rid of one of them. I sure can;t buy it.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Yes no problem! Once you get over the CA registration paperwork process, the car will be smog exempt. If it was a gasser, a smog is due at the 7 year mark and costs 55-65 and is due each 2nd year subsequently. At the 10 year mark a SMOG ONLY is due @ 80-100 dollars.

    If it is a (longer)spring that fell out, it is more than likely the lumbar support spring. The dealer quoted me 600 to fix. Cetainly it is cheaper to go to the auto salvage for a used replacement. If they fell out on both seats, if it bothers you, it is actually makes sense to get new cloth Recaro seats for app the same cost.
  • plaaaaaneplaaaaane Member Posts: 32
    Thank you, ruking! I guess I'll keep it & fix it up since the body & mechanical is perfect. It's only the plastic...
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    I have the GL, so the seats do not have the lumbar adjustment. Even after mine fell off, I could tell absolutely no difference! The only real shock was when the dealer told me $600 to fix. So I tagged the spring (just in case I forget what it was for) put it on a shelf and the (front passenger) seat works just fine.
  • smdtdismdtdi Member Posts: 31
    am going to attempt to replace these. Someone here had posted step by step, do it yourself instructions (with pictures)for doing this.

    My question regards the parts. I understand that the glowplugs had changed for this engine recently (presumably when the PD was introduced).

    I want to make sure that i'm buying the right parts.

    I found a place online called

    Auto Parts Warehouse

    which lists two different types of glowplugs for the 2005 Jetta TDI:

    OE Service Glowplugs (M10 x 1 x7) $26.99 each.

    Bosch Glowplugs )M10 x 1 x7) $27.99 each.

    The Bosch glowplugs listing states that they are suitable for the GL, and GLS TDI, Wagon (I have the wagon...not sure why that would make a difference).

    Any suggestions, or experiences replacing your own glowplugs? I have also heard that the glowplug harness should be replaced...is this necessary?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    There is hours of reading about glowplugs in Glow plugs 101

    You did not tell us what year your TDI is nor which engine you have so I cannot really give you any specific answers to your questions. In fact, you did not even tell us WHY you are going to replace glowplugs. Are you having some kind of problem you are attempting to resolve?

    Based on which engine you have and what year your TDI is, the answers to your questions may change and I do not want to mislead nor confuse you.

    I can tell you that on either engine, USE ANTISEEZE on the threads when reinstalling.

    Also, may I suggest you consider TDI Parts as a parts source.
  • smdtdismdtdi Member Posts: 31
    I am replacing them because the check engine light has been on. I diagnostic test at Autozone indicated glowplug heater #2 was the problem.

    Its a 2005 Jetta Wagon with the PD Engine (BEW engine code I believe). It has 55,000 miles. I have had glowplugs replaced at the dealer twice already, when it was under warranty.

    The dealer now wants $308 to replace all four glowplugs. I don't they know what they are doing.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    Well there's another possibility other than the glowplug itself being bad. The connection may be corrosed a bit which can signal the bad glowplug. Try pulling the connections of the glowplugs and cleaning the plug with some sandpaper or steelwool. Also clean the female end that goes to the glowplug. I get the same code about once a year and cleaning the contacts fixes this. I am running the original glowplugs in my '00 TDI with over 160k miles. The sensors on these seem to be VERY sensitive and a little corrosion on the contacts gives a slightly off reading and sets the code.

    Being that they've been replaced twice already.......it seems a little questionable that you've gotten that many faulty glowplugs. I'd try something else first for sure and my recommendation doesn't cost anything. Not sure where you live either, but if the car is starting in the cold, obviously the glowplugs are working.
  • j_jonesj_jones Member Posts: 9
    Just got this car in June. I live down in Tampa bay area in FL. So it's obvious it gets really hot. The a/c in this car just blow during the day when it is 90 deg or more. It blows cool but not cool to the extent that you enjoy it or feel comfortable. On the other hand, if you use d a/c in morning or evening, it blows cooler. Besides, the a/c vent have fact. defects...that they're too high and it's somewhat hard to adjust to a comfort style. if a short person drives this car in the sun, it's really bad that you have to roll down the window.

    My other question, my cigarette lighter both the driver and back-seat port stopped working few days ago. does anyone know where the fuser box is located? one will think usually on the dashboard driver side right? nope. Need to buy a new fuser n replace it. And I have also read in here that the mileage sucks. If I had known better, I will have gotten a A4 instead.

    Oh well, please let me know of any suggestions you may have.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    jonesy you lost your way in the forums. this is a diesel jetta forum. but so what. my suggestions are to have the dealer evaluate whether the AC is performing up to spec or not. also consider a legal tint job to reduce the load on the AC. i doubt an A4 would get better mpg. if you want good mpg trade for a jetta TDI! fwiw, my jetta TDI AC works fine when i'm in FLA during spring training season at least...
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Member Posts: 992
    Has anyone gone? It doesn't come to Miami so I can't go. My dealer still says the The 08 Jetta TDI is to be released in the spring.

    I test drove a jetta SE(2008 version of 2.5) and it was nice!! But it had like this gap when accelerating between gear 2&3. The TDI's have DSG so i'm sure that gaps pretty much gone.

    Can anyone compare the 2.5 to an A5(JETTA 05.5+) TDI(or by a stroke of luck a 95accord v6)? I have a video on my carspace and after about 30mph, i could no longer hear a diesel engine...

    Id test drive on on my own but the nearest AM/DSG TDI is 75miles away vs 1.5 to the dealer... :sick: Feels like I missed the gravy train...
    -Cj
  • repoman1repoman1 Member Posts: 64
    I can't find a schedule for the tour.

    Does anyone know where the schedule for the Dieselution Tour is posted?
  • ecotrklvrecotrklvr Member Posts: 519
    link title
  • driverberndriverbern Member Posts: 23
    I have an '06 TDI that I purchased new in July. I use it for my sales job and cover the east coast - Maine to FL. Does anyone know the best tire pressure to run? The manual says 34psi front and back but I'm wondering if I can SAFELY run a higher pressure in order to maximize the mileage.
  • cosmocosmo Member Posts: 203
    You can increase the pressure to the max listed on the sidewall. However, I found the ride to get pretty harsh above 36psi. I would expect the center tread to wear a little faster at higher than recommended pressure. The suspension is tuned for 34psi, so you may also detect some change in handling. I had mine at 40psi for a month, and I really did not see any improvement in fuel economy, So, I went back to 34psi for a more comfortable ride.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    i think that ride & handling & grip will definitely suffer if you run the tires at max pressure. along those lines, i thnk that emergency-stop braking distances may increase if cold tire pressure is maxxed. especially on wet roads.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    I have been running 38-36 F and 38-34 rears (44 psi max side wall pressure) on oem tires GY LS-H's for 100,000 miles and they look good to go to at least 110,000 miles. The wear is dead even across the width. I had the alignment checked (was not adjusted due to spot on) during the new car warranty period (under 1 year/12,000 miles, don't remember the exact month and mileage). Given that history, I would start there and see if you like it.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    I sent both daughters to a (Sear Point Raceway, Sonoma CA dont know whom has the current naming rights) Highway Survival Course where they literally PUNISH (more like thrash) compact car tires; in addition to brake pads, rotors, alignments, etc, etc. Both times I asked what tire pressures were used. Both times it was INXS of 38 psi. (40-45 psi)
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    regular-unleaded king, at those highway-survival schools they might intentionally set up the cars so they skid more... maybe easier to do that by maxxing the tire pressure than by keeping the track wet all the time...
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Counter intuitively that is actually not the case as lower pressure has more heat build up and that of course increases the liklihood of premature tire failure, tire squirm etc, while increasing the wear. This is easy to see as the best dry weather traction is again counter intuitively (but commonly known) a racing slick. Just a hint of water on a racing slick is enough to make wet traction way way low. Almost all tire research indicates that in a given proper range, higher PSIs are almost always better than lower PSI's, sans special purpose applications: such as rock crawling, sand operation, etc. Lots of folks of course love the lower psi for that cushioned ride effect. And there is a significant majority who of course fail to even check them a min of once a month.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I agree with ruking.... I have been running about 38-40 PSI for over 80K miles (still within max safety rating on sidewalls)

    I really like the 56 MPG this tirepressure gives me. (lower rolling resistance)

    Although I expected to see the tires wearing in the center... this has never happened. The wear is very even across the width of the tread. The belted radials are almost impervious to bulging out.

    But as mentioned in previous append... the ride is pretty rough.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    bud peebles & ru lizard king, there is no free lunch. everything is a tradeoff.
    if you are getting less-rolling-resistance, it is *very* likely that you are also increasing the emergency-braking-distance. the two things are inversely related.
    admittedly the rolling-resistance relates more to the coeefficient of static friction, and without ABS the emergency/threshold-braking-distance relates to something "inbetween" the coefficient of sliding friction and coefficient of static friction.
    but maybe you see my point. and yes the contact-patch size is a factor too. the actual physics/math are pretty complex but it's very easy to design a controlled test where you can compare for yourself in a parking lot.
    pump up your tires to 25PSI, go 30 mph and stand on the brakes and measure braking distance. wait for tires/air-inside to cool, and then do the same test with tires at max-cold-pressure. i'll bet you a dollar that the results are exactly as i predict.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    ..."bud peebles & ru lizard king, there is no free lunch. everything is a tradeoff. "...

    Neither of us fell off the turnip truck, and unless you tell me otherwise, I will assume neither did you. :)

    To address what I would assume is an almost laboratory experiment based on the emergeny braking distance of so called rolling resistant rated tires, is something even the tire industry has yet to addressed. Indeed I can not point to ANY established protocols!!! A trusted source such as www.tire rack.com hasn't even mentioned this as a future project. First there are no tire industry standards for rolling resistance. Next there are no rating system, such as UTOQ. Even UTOQ ratings are acknowledged to be only applicable WITHIN a vendors tire line and NOT across vendors. So to SWAG across vendors requires a fore knowledged gained by a lot of first and second hand experience/s. Of course you need enough data for correlation testing and standard deviation, min and max etc. So while you might swag ahead of this situation, to come to any real conclusions is even ahead of the measurement metrics. Keep in mind that most of the 60-0 stopping distances are done (and dare I say certified?) on OEM vendored tires. Very few car magazines do anything close to evaluationg the other available brands/models that are not necessarily oem vendored. Indeed I know of almost no tire vendor that advertises; for example," stops 20 ft shorter on 60-0 trials than the oem!!" Shout out if you do know of any.

    Emergency braking is not only situational, but it is reaction based, such as in drag racing. So while 60-0 is a metric often referred to, I find very few instances where folks knowing play chicken with a steel/concrete/brick wall in a 60-zero situation. Indeed performance cars, which I would assume owners put "performance" tires, are more costly to insure due to more at fault accidents, to include rear ending a vehicle in front.

    For me, oem (least) rolling resistance data are useful for tread life and fuel mileage PERFORMANCE. On the TDI it is commonly known that deviation from OEM tires usually means decrease PERFORMANCE (in the mpg variable and in many cases offers far less tread life. In addition both have real life dollar consequences.
  • chuckycheesechuckycheese Member Posts: 13
    I have a 2006 Jetta TDI 5 spd w/31,000 miles. City mileage @38-40 MPG & HWY @45-47MPG). Have been using biodiesel (usually B10 as B5 not available locally)) since 5,000 miles on clock. Am having intermittent problem w/rough idle after engine is completely warmed up (at least 10 miles). Dealer claims biodiesel is the problem & suggested I stop using it, which I will do for a span. Problem still exists, but am willing to give it time to correct itself. Biodiesel was purchased only from dealers listed on national (by state) biodiesel website as complying w/ISO 9000(?) standards. Comments please.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Almost EVERYBODY that I know, that have used bio diesel (consistently) have at one time or another experienced a "bad batch". Much as I (personally) agree with the spirit and intent, and the ability to go to alternative fuesl and lower costs of the product, etc, the problem is the fuel still has to go through the complex and (expensive to fix) components, such as: fuel pump, injector systems, etc. Now the same might be true of normal #2 diesel, but I have yet to have ANY concerns in 100,000 miles or app 200 fill ups of normally 10-12 gals.

    To address your concerns, I would SWAG, one the cheapest fix (15-30 bux) is to change your fuel filter (after you are reasonably assured the bio diesell is through the system. In addition or indeed before, (I) use a product called Primrose 405C which is an (H20) emulsifier, cetane boost and lubricity agent.

    Now your situation is complicated a bit by the fact they actually have a bio diesel product that does the same thing. So obvious you have two ways to go. Let us know which you chose and what happens.
  • shannynshannyn Member Posts: 4
    I absolutley love my jetta...Would not trade it for anything in the world..I have 83,000 miles on it, I travel alot back and forth to work and it is a 2005. My problem is since I got the car ( bought it brand new) I have had alot of little things go wrong..Mostly electrical..Sometimes the sunroof don't want to close...Headlights or tailights constantly going out..Now my a/c is messing up. I brought it to the shop (not VW, the charge way to much) and they said it was the Evaporator core that went out. It is going to cost be close to a thousand dollars. Has anyone had this problem? The mechanic that always works on my car specializes in foreign cars and works on VW's, Volvo's, BMW, etc..He said he has never had to replace a Evaporator core in this new of a vehicle, mostly on 90 models. My other thing, the car is great especially on mileage, but when you have to have someone work on it, it costs you a arm and a leg because no one wants to touch a diesel, as soon as I tell them it is a diesel, they say they don't work on them and when you find someone that will they charge a arm and a leg...Anyway, has anyone else had this problem? :confuse:
  • newdieselguynewdieselguy Member Posts: 1
    This morning my wife while on the way home from work pulled up to the unleaded gas pumps with our new/used 03 jetta TDI diesel and put 10 gals of gas in the car. I came and picked her up with a trailer and towed the jetta tdi home. I was able to siphen out about 6 gals. It is nearly impossible to get a hose in the tank or to release a fuel line under the car and apply air to the tank and drain off the remaining gas. I was told that there is a relay near the fuel filter that I can cross over and turn the key on and the fuel will begin pumping out of the tank. Any one know how to do this? Or any suggestions? Can I just fill it back up with diesel and be good?? :confuse: ">
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    It is a good thing it was not driven.

    Drain tank, replace fuel filter... you should be good to go.

    I have never done it on a TDI, but on my previous gasoline VWs, I could pull the fuel-pump relay and just "jumper" the correct pins to force the fuel-pump to run. (when testing injectors)

    I would expect you could pull hose from fuel-filter and put into gascan and then jumper the pins on the fuel-pump-relay.

    BEWARE: The fuel-pump draws a good deal of current and can easilly drain the battery while engine is not running.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    charles-du-fromage, my 06 tdi 5spd idles rough with dino diesel, especially when air temps are around 60 or 70 with no accessories. "they all do that." for mine , running window heater elements or bunwarmers or AC gratuitously, smooths out the idle, still gets 45 mpg.
  • chuckycheesechuckycheese Member Posts: 13
    My father-in-law has told me that while on a fishing trip in the hinterlands of Canada, he has mixed unleaded with kerosene & gotten to his destination. Vehicle had a Isuzu diesel so I don't know if this would be OK in the TDI. I would definitely change the fuel filter before starting engine.
  • chuckycheesechuckycheese Member Posts: 13
    Fuel filter was changed @ 1 month before I took vehicle in to dealer who determined that bio was at fault. At that time, filter was changed again. PLease advise as to availability of Primrose product(s). Have not heard of it before. Rough idle is becoming more pronounced, but it appears as if MPG has improved. Will keep you posted. Thnaks for advice & info.
  • sean9sean9 Member Posts: 82
    Well,
    I have officially put my 06' Jetta TDI for sale. Not by choice but reality. #2 Kid will be here soon and 2 cars seats and strollers and all that gear amounts up to very little comfort room in the Jetta. If I had the money I would keep it as a 3rd vehical. But I bought the new 08' Caravan. Dear God I never thought the day would come that I drive a VAN. Well the wife can drive and I will watch the dvd in the back. I have to say it was one hell of a car to own. But it has its drawbacks as a family cruiser. The cold weather and warm up period for starters. With only 45000Km and in mint condition I hope to get back 75% of what I paid for it. And what we pay up here in Canada for Vehicals is criminal compared to the states, especially with our dollar being so strong. I hope to get another TDI one day. If anyone is interested in the car and is in the Alberta area give me a shout. seanfrew@hotmail.com
  • shannynshannyn Member Posts: 4
    Hey don't worry I did the same thing...It was after katrina hit, and at that time you could not find gas/diesel anywhere's so i pulled into a BP...Well not thinking that BP's main color is green and usually a green handle means diesel I did not read it and just pumped and filled it up. Well I went in and paid for it, got in my car looked at the gas tank and realized I put gas in my car..I only had it cranked for 5 minutes but i turned my car off, called roadside assistance and they towed it 105 miles to the nearest VW dealership that did not get damaged in the storm..Needless to say, if i would have left it running any longer and drove, they said it would have ruined all my sensors, and caused alot of damage..Luckily, all they had to do was take my fuel line apart, drain it, flush it out, and put a new fuel line in for a total cost of around 700.00 at the VW dealership. I know it is alot of money but you might want to check and see what your options and how much it will cost and let a professional do it, just so if they mess up they have to fix it... :D
  • jeffg22jeffg22 Member Posts: 2
    anyone have idea about my tdi jetta , starts then stalls in 1 or 2 seconds? thank you!!
  • shannynshannyn Member Posts: 4
    I don't know how many miles you have on your car, but it might be you need a new fuel filter or maybe get them to check the glow plugs in your car, that will make it stall...Mine did that right when I crank it up and come to find out the glow plugs can make it do that if they need to be changed but luckily all mine needed was a new fuel filter. That makes a world of difference..Hope this helps..Let me know when you find out! :D
  • cosmocosmo Member Posts: 203
    Since you just joined the discussion, I'll assume that either your TDI is new or you are new to TDI's. During hot, warm, and even mild weather you can pretty much ignore the glow plug warming light. Now that the weather is turning cold in most parts of the country, make sure the glow plug warming light goes off before you try to start your Jetta. It only takes a few seconds.

    If it still stalls on you, the fuel filter or bad fuel would be suspect.

    Then there is always the good old Vagcom diagnostic.

    Good luck.
  • chuckycheesechuckycheese Member Posts: 13
    Please advise what the Vagcom diagnostic is. I've not heard of it. I have a message (#1540?) regarding a rough idle which the dealer diagnosed as a batch of bad biodiesel. Fuel filter was changed, fuel drained from tank, & I was advised not to use bio, which I haven't since repair was done (@ 500 miles ago). Engine acts as if one or more injectors is not functioning correctly, but dealer did not test them (as far as I know). Your comments please.
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    Biodiesel is a very good solvent. If there was anything built up in the lines it will loosen it and can plug up injectors. With the wide variety of diesel sold in the USA, it is hard to tell what has been run in your TDI. Changing the fuel filter is a must Vagcom is a diagnostic tool that you can attach to your TDI to see what kind of problems you have. Biodiesel from a reputable source is good clean fuel. Again with the variety available the auto makers are hesitant to approve of it as fuel.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Your question : "Please advise what the Vagcom diagnostic is."

    Answer: VagCom website
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Here's the link: hurley5, "Volkswagen Jetta 2005 and earlier" #12704, 13 Nov 2007 3:15 pm.
  • jettahunterjettahunter Member Posts: 1
    Man, probably you gave a gift (700.00) to VW dealer. The only thing to do when you pump gas instead diesel is just to pump out the gas and pump diesel into. To do this, you only need a hose (4 or 5 feet), and tank to preserve a gas, and that's it (these tools you will find in any gas station. Nothing to pass, the rest of gas on the tank (you never will pump out 100%) it will cause nothing to your engine or sensor or whatever if you fill it up with diesel. Mechanics from VW dealership are very happy to find person like you, they can say bla, bla, bla, and bla, bla........
  • sun69devsun69dev Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 Jetta TDI and recently have been running across a lot of problems. I recently had to replace my motor mounts and now it is leaking oil. It is leaking oil and pooling up in the front bumper by the passenger side wheel well.

    I took it in and they are telling me that I have to replace my intercooler and some work needs to be done to my turbo chrger because oil is getting into the hose that blows air into my turbocharger. All told it will $1600 ($370 for the intercooler and $600 for the turbo charger).

    Does this seem logical or could something else be causing this to happen?

    Any advice would be really helpful as I don't want to shell out $1600 replacing parts that don't need to be replaced.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    It is not unheard of for an intercooler oil-seal to fail. When this happens, the pressurized oil in the turbocharger bearing can leak into the intake air. The pressure and flow of the air out of the turbocharger can blow the oil into the intercooler where the oil collects.

    Bottom line - It sounds as if your turbocharger oil-seal has failed. I do not beleive you need a new intercooler. (just wash it out with dish-detergent and hot water.)

    $600 for a new-complete turbocharger is a reasonable price. Are you certain this is a NEW and COMPLETE turbocharger? (not just a center-bearing or some other subset of a complete unit)

    Check out this website for complete turbocharger service (rebuild/kit whatever you need.)

    Look at the bright side of things.... if that oil had reached the engine, it would have gone into runaway - accellerrationg uncontrollably. (Diesel engines use oil as fuel!)
  • newmexiconewmexico Member Posts: 1
    I have recently started experiencing loss of power and speed, particularly on hills. The car also experiences some "chugging" when this is happening. Is this due to the injectors being dirty? If so, what is the best way to clean them?
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