VW Jetta TDI

mrknightsguy · January 2005

I think the best oil to buy for your car is Amsoil 5w-30 full synthetic CI-4 rated diesel oil. It meets all of VW standards and you need the ci-4 rating for soot control unlike gas engines diesels develope soot. 5w-40 is a 40 wieght and is to thick for a small engines like the tdi 1.9 liter and will not circulate properly especially in the winter time and may damage your engine. VW dealerships use 0w-40, 5w-30 or 5w-40 mobil 1 or castrol oils which all have 505.01 VW ratings but are not CI-4 rated for diesel engines. You can buy Amsoil at just about any NAPA auto parts store runs about 8.00 a quart. Stay away from truck oils like mobil1 5w-40 truck/suv formula, rotella 5w-40 thes oils are designed for trucks not for cars.

gagrice · January 2005

I think the best oil to buy for your car is Amsoil 5w-30 full synthetic CI-4 rated diesel oil.

I was under the impression that only the German Castrol and a company called Motul produced the 505.01 spec oil.

ruking1 · January 2005

First of all, I know for a fact that Mobil One 5w40 Truck & Suv aka Delvac One 5w40 is/are CI-4 rated.

While this might be off topic for the USA, the above "EURO" version/s is also VW 505.00 AND 505.01 compliant. Why it is not sold here in the USA is another discussion

When it comes to the VW TDI owner's manual/s (pre 2004 or PD PUMP Duse), shop data, web sites, the verbiage indicates that given CF-4, ACEA's (for diesel) etc ,(CI-4 is the higher standard over Cf-4) points to the fact is many viscosities CAN be used. So the key point being if it meets the CI-4 CF-4 and ACEA's: what viscosities doe they come in?? Some examples: 0-40, 15w40, 5w30, 5w40.

It does also point out that 5w40 is preferred, BUT 5w30 can be used if it is NOT available. So for example, my 2003 VW Jetta TDI owner's manual specifically states the TDI engine comes factory filled with an "ALL SEASON" 5w40 fill. (quotes and all caps my <sic> ) So indeed if one checks the 5w40 specs for the low temperature numbers, indeed it will work just fine in the winter temps. 0w40 can be used for those Maine "y acs" or Alaska types, but 5w40 will indeed work under the majority of circumstances and VW also indicates it is the prefered viscosity range.

The correct Amsoil products are indeed excellent products! I would not fault anyone in the least for using any one of the (3?) that is formulated for our diesels.

I personally use Delvac One 5w40 aka Mobil One 5w40 Truck & Suv. Mobil One T&S 5w40 is available OTC in many more places and costs between 4-5 dollars per quart.

..." was under the impression that only the German Castrol and a company called Motul produced the 505.01 spec oil."...

You are correct when it comes to availability in the USA. There are some other brands such as ELF, PC Duron, but be prepared for a more "needle in a haystack hunt"

sebring95 · January 2005

I'm not sure exactly what the difference is between what you're recommending, but I ran the Amsoil 5W-30 series 3000 diesel oil a couple years ago and it consistently had higher wear metals than when I run 5W-40 Mobile Delvac. I ran it for three changes (someone gave me a case) and after returning to Delvac my numbers dropped back to within the range before the Amsoil. It was still within spec, but I'm not so sure the 30W isn't a bit light for these engines. The first oil change on the Amsoil probably wasn't fair because I also installed an Amsoil oiled foam filter and quickly removed it after the first test because my silicon was very high indicating it wasn't filtering as well. My wear metals were very high on that particular test, although still within spec. One thing for sure, the synthetic diesel oils ALL seem to more than adequately do their jobs. It's just a level of which works better on certain cars at that point.

This most recent oil changed, I dumped in a gallon of Rotella synthetic since I buy it in bulk for my Cummins trucks. I'll run a test in 10k miles and see how it compares.

ruking1 · January 2005

I probably should not say this, for I do not have the web site link, but I read a NON VW study (link was in a thread on Bobistheoilguy) that demonstrated 5w40 is indeed the correct viscosity for our engines. A University of Michigan? (graduate school thesis?) showed and graphed (in a scientific experiemental study) in more detail than most folks will ever want to know, that given the operating parameters of our engines the 5w40 functions better. Wear, fuel mileage, by products, you name it!

tdi_tan · January 2005

think the best oil to buy for your car is Amsoil 5w-30 full synthetic CI-4 rated diesel oil. It meets all of VW standards and you need the ci-4 rating for soot control unlike gas engines diesels develope soot. 5w-40 is a 40 wieght and is to thick for a small engines like the tdi 1.9 liter and will not circulate properly especially in the winter time and may damage your engine.

The required weight of oil is 5w40. There is a TSB for the TDI's that specially says 5w40 synthetic. This TSB supercedes the 5w30 synthetic requirement.

PD's require VW505.01, and to date, it's only available on 5w40.

at 0°C, 5w40 behaves like a 5 weight oil, just like 5w30. More than sufficient for winter usage.

Mobil 1 and Castrol Syntec 5w30 do not meet the requirements -- having any or a combination of: VW505.00, ACEA B3/B4, API CF-4/CG-4 (CI-4 is oil for EGR systems). A caveat of this is, while Syntec 5w40 (and Mobil 1 0w40) meets VW505.00, it is CF rated.

Stay away from truck oils like mobil1 5w-40 truck/suv formula, rotella 5w-40 thes oils are designed for trucks not for cars.

Amsoil Series 3000 5w30 was originally developed for the heavy duty truck engines...in fact the full name is Series 3000 Synthetic 5W-30 Heavy Duty Diesel Oil It does not specify it meeting VW505.00. (Though it meets ACEA B3/B4. ACEC E-standards are heavy duty truck standard).

No offense, you are contradicting yourself:

1. Recommending Series 3000 5w30

2. Recommending oils that meet CI-4. API C-ratings are intended for heavy-duty truck engines, since there are very few light duty diesels available, it did not justify a separate specification rating.

If you want to stay away from truck oils...you could be inferring the other Amsoil 5w30 -- while it meets API CF, but not CI-4. However, it meets VW505.00

Mobil 1 Truck & SUV, Mobil Delvac 1, and Shell Rotella T-synthetic are all excellent oils that you can use, as long as it is not a PD-engine (2004+, requires VW505.01).

And what do I use? Amsoil 5w40 European Car formula.

squa99 · January 2005

I've been researching like mad on the 2005 VW Jetta TDI and the salesman I was using was worthless so I went to another dealer. He said that if you don't drive 18-20 thousand miles/yr, you shouldn't get a diesel. He also stated that the engine won't get up to operating temperature until you drive 18 miles and if it doesn't heat up all the way you'll get carbon build up w/in the engine. Do you guys agree with this?

ruking1 · January 2005

Short answers:1. YES and NO, 2. Longer freeway miles are better for diesel and gasser alike, 3. soot build up can and does happen with TDI's.(intake manifold). Since it CAN happen you can put it in the schedule or even unscheduled maintenance category

I think he is refering to the break even between VW's 2.0(cost less) and TDI (cost more). You can run the math, but it takes app 60,000 miles to BE. So the BE year question is affected effected by your yearly mileage.

If you look at the VW 1.8 T, the 1.8 T is only slightly more(100-200 @1.98)) , so in effect, break even is very minimal (3,232 miles.

So for example my wife used the Jetta TDI manual for a year on a 50 mile R/T commute, (total yearly mileage is app 26,000). In heavy stop and go traffic averaged with normal flow she got between 47-51 mpg. One day she announced that she was tired of shifting. I asked her if she had any objection to another diesel and the only thing she cared about was AUTOMATIC. The Jetta TDI automatic gets app 38 mpg. So I started to look for both new and used TDI's . Of course, the good news and the bad news is the phenon of the 2003 used ones costing more than what I paid new. Upshot, VW Jetta TDI 18,000 vs 12,500, a brand new Honda Civic 4 door VP automatic that gets between 34-40 mpg (she gets app 35 mpg on the exact same commute.)$5,500 dollars @1.98 per gal) buys a LOT of unleaded gas! (97,222 miles of it) This is not even to mention less monthly payments. Less taxation etc. (lease or buy)

gagrice · January 2005

a brand new Honda Civic 4 door VP automatic that gets between 34-40 mpg

Is the Civic as much fun to drive as the Jetta? Was the automatic all she was interested in?

Did you keep your TDI?

ruking1 · January 2005

Despite it being an automatic, it is fun to drive, but I do prefer the Jetta 5 speed manual, which I have kept. The Honda Civic has more of a nervous ride. Because it is a Honda and a gasser, it is a bit more rev happy! The automatic seems to upshift quickly and nervously, but smooth. One BIG equalizer in the performance department is the Civic weighs app 500#'s less.

It is funny but to replace the suspension components on a Honda Civic is actually more costly and more maintenance intense.

Yup, for her daily commute, she is as happy as a clam.

squa99 · January 2005

Thanks for the help--I was also looking at a mazda 3 and a toyota matrix after the comments from the dealer. I've owned a couple civics--they're great cars but I'm tired of them. I just really enjoyed the idea of a diesel--but w/ the additional maintenance...I just don't want to spend the extra money. Just how much additional maintenance would it be?

ruking1 · January 2005

Actually, over a 100,000 mile period we are talking a timing belt and (possible)water pump change between 95000 for the worrying type to 120,000 miles for the more on the edge folks.

10k period gigs include: a checklist of inspection items, oil and filter change, tire rotation,etc. 40k air filter change, diesel related items: fuel filter every 20k. With fuel filter, H2O release every 10k. So really there is even LESS maintenance.

The real quick and dirty is for the VW Jetta TDI to match the Honda Civic's numbers, you are pretty much locked into 300,000-500,000 miles. My goal is to keep this thing going past 500,000 miles to 1,000,000 miles if possible.

hanky · January 2005

I negotiated down to $200 below invoice on a 2005 Jetta GLS TDI Wagon. Is that a good price?

ruking1 · January 2005

Yes!

gagrice · January 2005

I negotiated down to $200 below invoice on a 2005 Jetta GLS TDI Wagon. Is that a good price?

Welcome to the forum. That price sounds real good to me. What city did you buy your Jetta TDI in?

ruking1 · January 2005

Make sure the documentation fees are as low as possible (20-40 dollars, better is FREE-ask them to waive the doc fee) Whoever will sit across from you, doing the paper work is going spend more time giving a massive full court press, selling you any and all upgrade services, than they will doing the necessary legal paperwork!! You don't really need to pay for this spiel!!!

vin · January 2005

I have a 2004 jetta wagon 5 speed at 22000 miles the low coolant lite came on. I went to the dealer who thought the head was leaking there was no coolant in the oil. wolfsburg told dealer to replace the head they thought it was a porous casting. they gave me the car back and it was still leaking . This time the dealer comes up with a letter from volkswagen telling them to check egr valve cooler. It was replaced and leak stopped. 3 months later same problem cooler is leaking. I know of 4 others with same problem are there any more?

bpeebles · January 2005

Very interesting! I have never heard of this problem in the past. (pre 2004)

I wonder if this "EGR cooler" was redesigned with the new "poumpe duse" engine that came out in the 2004s?

gagrice · January 2005

I wonder how many were diesel

In 2004, the Volkswagen Group delivered 5.079 million vehicles to customers worldwide. This is a good sales result given the weak situation on the worlds key automotive markets, said Dr. Bernd Pischetsrieder, Chairman of the Volkswagen Group Board of Management, on Sunday in Detroit/USA.

http://www.germancarfans.com/news.cfm/newsid/2050111.008/volkswag- en/1.html

chriskrouse · March 2005

i have a 98 jetta tdi manual. it seems to smoke more than it should. when i accelerate in 2nd gear there is a thick cloud behind me. it smokes more than it used to. i know that diesels smoke, but it seems worse than usual. also, in the cold when i start the engine the oil light blinks. i assume thats because the oil is cold, but i dont know.

pruzink · March 2005

It really is not normal for these cars to smoke at all. There are tons of posts on tdiclub.com on causes and solutions for typical problems associated with this, I would strongly suggest reading up on them to come up with a game plan to find out why. In addition to just plain wasting fuel, there are some potential causes that could end up destroying your engine. For instance, if it is the seals in your turbo-charger leaking engine oil into your intake air, if the car sat at idle for any length of time, enough oil could accumulate in your intercooler and sit there until your next acceleration and become a source of unmetered fuel causing the engine to run away and destroy itself (are you loosing any motor oil, do you get any unwarranted RPM increases after sitting at idle). Jettas also have a very high failure rate on the MAF sensors (I believe this generally leads to sluggish acceleration and can be tested by disconnecting the MAF to see if the car runs better without it). I would really spend some time at tdiclub.com reading up on the subject.
As far as the oil light coming on when the car is cold, that is not normal either. Is your oil level correct? I'm not sure if you have the same style filter that I have; but I know that with the A4 TDIs there are 2 ways the oil filter can mess up on a cold engine. One is there were some filters that were being sold that did not have the propper oil dam in the center (prevents the filter from draining back when the car is off). When you look down the center of the filter, it should not be an open hole from one end to the other, there should be a piece of plastic about 2/3 from the bottom. Reason 2 is the filter has an up side and a down side when you install it. Low oil pressure when starting the engine is something you really don't want either.

virtual_nova · March 2005

So I've read a few of the posts here, and I'm almost afraid to ask...but here goes. I have a TDI Jetta GLS with 122,000 miles on it. I've really loved the car...until a year ago. Thats when I decided to finally get the timing belt replaced as part of normal maininence.

It took a bit longer than planned, but when I took it home...it felt great. The next morning, however, it was a ragged beast! I didn't want to turn over, then when I gassed it, it shot out tons of white smoke. Anyway, I took it back...and later that day, I get a call... Its my Fuel Injection Pump. They don't want to charge me labor...but the part is $1200. I wait months (since I don't have the money), then I go in. I get it replaced...and then...I still have this problem where its a rougher start and when the engine is still not hot and I press the accelerator fully, smoke shoots out of my tail pipes. SO...I go back in.

They say...the timing belt ($650) was required to know it was the Pump ($1200)...and replacing the pump was required to know it was the whole electrical glow-plud assemply ($650). Obviously, I didn't go back to them. Another dealer looked at it, said there isn't anything wrong...but there is a little oil coming from the top of the engine. Minor...but should be changed eventually. BUT...now I have a check engine lite one (relating to the emissions I'm told)...and a intermident blinking glow plug light.

Was I screwed regarding the $1200 Pump? Was it the electical assembly the whole time? Did they just start replacing parts cause they didn't have a clue? I'm way pissed! Also...has anyone noticed that Jettas seem to put extra braking on the rear disks? I was also told that I need a new master cylinder because my front disks are original, but my rears going thru pads a bit to quick.

HELP!

bpeebles · March 2005

To answer your question succently, yes.

The glowplug harness is KNOWN for the connections to start to corrode and cause hard starting. (But replacing the TB did not cause it to suddenly go bad.)

The smoking after the TB change can be explained by the IQ (Injection Quality) being incorrectly adjusted.

They replaced the Injection Pump because they had no clue and it seemed the logical cause of the problem. (But replacing the TB did not cause it to suddenly go bad.)

There are very few TDI technitions that KNOW what they are doing. Most dealerships have somone with a "certificate" that they took some course and can recognize a TDI 2 out of 3 times... but that does not make them an expert at setting up the IQ or troubleshooting problems. (obviously caused by changing the TB)

Lets not forget that most mechanics are REWARDED by selling additional parts to customers. They often dont give a Cr@p if the part is bad or not.

I have always wonderd what would happen if their paycheck was REDUCED every time they diagnose incorrectly and dont fix a problem. I would bet problems would be diagnosed and repaired with much less error.

It is very hard to find a repair shop that is reliable. The turnover of techs is often high and there is greater chance to get a bonehead working on your car.

virtual_nova · March 2005

Thanks for confirming my suspicions. I figured the TB would not cause all those problems...but that was how they "got" me. That 1200 could have gone soooo much further. Hmmm....now I have to conduct a interview before anyone touches my car. lol

So now I'm in a quandary. I have a 2000 TDI (122,000 miles) and there are a few problems going on. The car (last I checked) was still worth 9 or 10K. I've put in 1900 because of the TB and the Injection Pump...about a year ago. BUT...there is the Glow plug assembly (harness) that needs to be fixed (est. $650), oil very slowly appearing from the top of the engine (est. $275), new tires (est. $300-$400), and finally that master cylinder problem (est. $450, IF the break place I went to was honest). The car tends to rattle quite a bit now, but I own it totally and I'm its only owner. Total, to get all those problems fixed (not including the front bumper skirt), I have about 1800 more to put into the car. And there is no guarantee that something else will not be "found" or go bad.

Should I trade it in and start making payments for a new/used TDI? I really don't have the money to keep forking out cash for something that is a "diminishing return". Any advice? I'd like to stick with a TDI, but...

sebring95 · March 2005

$650 for a glow plug wiring harness??? They do occassionally go bad, but they're cheap as dirt.

http://www.worldimpex.com/item_detail.html?sku=122585

That's $28 for the harness and a monkey could swap it out in 1/2 hour. In addition, many times just the contacts are corroded a bit and do not require replacement. Take some sandpaper or scotchbright to the glowplug and harness connectors and see what happens. I've cleaned mine twice and that fixed the "problem". I've seen numerous problems with TDI's after dealers get their hands on them for a timing belt change. They just don't seem to understand the proper way to time these engines. It's not rocket science, but there is an exact method that must be used, otherwise many times the car will not cold-start properly. Then they start throwing parts at it left and right.

I know a guy that actually bought a TDI from a dealer because they couldn't get it to run. It was on their used lot but wouldn't start after having the timing belt changed. He got it dirt-cheap and then had it fixed in a matter of minutes just by setting the timing properly.

virtual_nova · March 2005

Ok...it sounds like keeping my TDI is a option?? But if there are virtually no techs that know what they are doing...(or should I say, they know EXACTLY what they are doing)...how is a TDI a good choice? It seems to me that going with a normal gasser would tend to be easier in terms of finding a qualified tech.

Hmmm...it sounds like I really need to become the tech myself or the timing will be wrong and I'll get sold on parts I don't need (for prices that are total BS!...Thanks for the headsup Sebring95! I can't belive they quoted me $650 for the glow-plug assembly when it costs $30!). Any other comments are much apprciated.

There must be other people that love these cars that have found somone they can trust. Or atleast some that knows the engine...any pointers?

Speaking of loving these cars...does anyone like the look of the new 2006 Jetta?? It looks like every other car on the street...heck...not even as good.

sebring95 · March 2005

IMHO, these cars shouldn't be driven by the average public. And I mainly say that because the vast majority of VW dealers are either:

A) Incompetent at repairing TDI's,

Crooks,
C) Both A & B,
D) Outside the statistical norm

If you'd like to email me (in my profile above) I can turn you on to some links of better mechanics at better prices. Or how-to links if you'd like to trying becoming your own mechanic. I've yet to encounter a repair/maintenance item I was unable to tackle on my own. I'm probably above-average in terms of mechanical abilities and tool inventory, but there's still a lot of things that can be done with just a couple tools.

Not big on the '06 Jetta myself either. Not big on the new Audi's either, my '02 A6 may be my last.

gagrice · March 2005

I can't believe they quoted me $650 for the glow-plug assembly when it costs $30!).

It's not just VW dealers. My wife's Lexus LS400's gas gauge quit. The Lexus dealer quoted $1200 to repair it. After a year of searching I found a very competent independent Lexus shop. They charged us $246 including the parts. Lexus dealer repair may be the biggest rip-off around.

hooper1 · March 2005

Hello all, I recently changed my fuel filter and now car wont stay on. It starts when I fill the filter with fuel then cuts off.Someone told me that there is air in the system.Can someone out there please help.

usmcwithtdi · March 2005

I'm new to this entire thing so please forgive my lack of experience and knowledge. I just bought a 2002 TDI GLS with 127,000 miles for 10k. It's a great car. The timing belt was even changed at 111,000 miles. I was wondering what the most reliable places to buy Jetta accessories off the internet are? Also, my brake light on the dash comes on intermittently and beeps. It does not stay on and does not do this every time. Also, every now and then my electrical system resets. I would appreciate any input. Thanks

bpeebles · March 2005

It sounds as if you have an air leak in the INTAKE side of the fuel plumbing. (It is sucking air)

You may wish to verify that all of the O-rings you installed are seated properly. (It does not hurt to coat O-rings with silicone before installing)

Also, make sure that the thermostat "tee" is installed properly. It is supposed to recirculate the fuel thru the filter until things warm up... then the warmed fuel is divirted back to the fuel tank to warm it up.

bpeebles · March 2005

It sounds to me as if perhaps your EMERGANCY BRAKE LEVER may not be staying down all the time. (or its switch is flaky)

The brake light on the dash will come on accompinied with audable beep when the EMERGANCY BRAKE LEVER is lifted and the vehicle is in motion. (Try it for yourself if you do not beleive me)

usmcwithtdi · March 2005

Thanks, I think that it's swithc. Any idea on what may be occuring with the electrical system and a reliable place to buy Jetta parts, I'm looking to do a lot of the maintenence myself.

bpeebles · March 2005

Here are a few websites where VW parts are available.

http://www.worldimpex.com/
http://www.1stvwparts.com/
http://www.vw-auto-parts.com/
http://www.volksparts.com/index.htm

mmikesmith · April 2005

I just recently got a 04 jetta tdi wagon with 32k miles. The first time that I tested the mpg I got nearly 50 with mostly hwy driving avg 60mph. Then I put a bike rack with 3 bikes on top and headed out on a trip using interstate hwys avg 75mph. I was quite shocked when my mpg dropped to 32 (Tested 3 times). Does this fit with others owners experiences?
thanks
mike Smith
Moab, Ut

bpeebles · April 2005

If by other "experiences" you mean the laws of physics.... sure it fits just fine.

Three bicycles (and the rack itself) are very unaerodynamic. Heck, just driving with a window down will reduce the MPG. If you SLOW DOWN, then the aerodynamic drag will be much reduced. (it is logrithmic in nature)

I hope this drop in MPG does not surprise you in any way.

whigggy · April 2005

Hi guys, I have a 2002 90hp TDI wagon, and I am sick of paying my dealer tons of $$$ to replace glow plugs. I have the engine light on with the code for cylinder 4's glow plug going out (this after I replaced it at 50000, I am at 63200 now). So, I took of the plastic engine cover, could see the inline 4, and where the plugs go, but I need assistance in actually doing the surgery. Any tips of links that could help out? Thanks, I appreciate all your input.

Whiggy

glenspey1 · April 2005

Got my 2004 Jetta TDI in June of '04. Love everything about it except for one thing. And it's a BIG thing. Black,greasy soot all over the garage floor. And I mean alot of it! VW service says it's normal but other owners I've talked to have no problems and I haven't seen it posted as a problem or FAQ in any forums.

Does anyone else see this as a problem or does my car have the problem? :confuse:

pusterracing · April 2005

I have an '04 GLS TDI (purchased 04/04) and recently purchased an 05 Passat GLS TDI and I don't have that problem at all. I do, however, back them out of the garage on the mornings I let them warm up, but even so, they sit in the same place on the driveway and I haven't had any problems. Does the station where you get your diesel pump alot of it? That could be part of it, old or poor quality fuel. Heck, my F350 Powerstroke diesel doesn't even leave any marks on the drive.

-PR-

03 Ford F350 SuperCrew KingRanch 6.0L Powerstroke
04 VW Jetta GLS TDI
05 VW Passat GLS TDI

glenspey1 · April 2005

Thanks for the fast response! I live in Florida so don't even have to let it warm up. Just start and go. It's running in the garage just long enough to let the clutch out and back out, and what a mess. I've tried different stations around the area and nothing seems to make a difference. VW tells me it's normal and there's nothing they can do about it and every owner I talk to says they have no soot whatsoever. The VW regional service rep is looking at it tomorrow and he'll probably tell me the same thing.

Thanks for your input.

toddf1 · April 2005

My girlfriend has a 1997 TDI turbo/fuel injected Volkswagen Jetta. A few months ago it started becoming quite sluggish, especially noticable going up any type of grade. It is usually a very peppy car and has just over 200,000 km which from what I have heard is not much for these engines. It starts easily and idles great. My mechanic buddy had me change the air filter, and add a fuel cleaner into the tank on fills but didn't do anything. We then changed the fuel filter and it was considerably better (not 100% the way it was) but very noticable difference. After a couple of weeks the car has become sluggish again. He thought it may have something to do with fuel pressure or the pump itself.

Any ideas?

can · April 2005

I also have a 2004 Jetta TDI and I recently drove 1300 miles to florida and parked in a freshly painted gray garage and saw no signs of anything on the floor except A/C condensation.
This is my second TDI and I never seen black particles left behind,I hope this helps

bpeebles · April 2005

Lets hope it is NOT the fuel pump. (A diesel fuel pump is VERY expensive even a rebuilt one may be near $800)

There are several things I would check
*) Snowscreen plugged up (easy to clean)
*) intake plenum plugged up (somwhat harder to clean)
*) bad MAF (about $100 - $200 part)
*) VNT vanes carboned up (may be able to free them up by wiggling the lever)

VNT = Varible Nozzle Trubocharger

travisvw · April 2005

I bought a 2002 JETTA TDI Feb of 2004 with 28,000. It now has 74,000 miles. I was driving on the freeway when I heard an unusually loud knocking sound coming from the engine. It also acted as if it lost power. I immediately pulled off the road and had it towed to the dealership. The service shop is telling me I need a new engine because of a lack of compression. I guess my question is do Jetta tdi's engines only last 75,000 miles?

bpeebles · April 2005

The TDI engine has been known to go at least 300,000 miles. Diesel engines in general should last TWICE as long as a gasser.

Your engine obviously had some kind of unusual failure. I wonder if the timing belt was not replaced at the proper intervals? If the timing belt skipps a tooth, the valves can contact the pistons making for an instatnt boat-anchor.

Another possibility is that the proper synthetic oil was not used in the engine.

Do you have any other details about what the problem is? "Lack of compression" does not automaticly mean you need a new engine. A good mechanic can use a remote-camera and snake it into the engine to 'look around" and make a more detailed diagnosis.

travisvw · April 2005

Synthetic oil was used at the recommended intervals and the timing belt is not recommended to be changed until 80,000 miles, however, the mechanic has ruled that out. Volkswagon is requiring the dealer to disassemble the engine for diagnostic purposes. The mechanic said that he was 90% sure that a new engine is needed, but he had not made a determination as to what exactly caused the compression loss. It has run problem free up until now. Its a mystery. I am hoping that VW, despite the fact that the engine is 14,000 out of warrantee, will back up their product if this is some sort of manufacturer defect.

toddf1 · April 2005

Thanks for the suggestions Bruce. I will look into these one by one. I have a diesel mechanic buddy who has helped me when he has time. I am leaning towards something being plugged because of how much better it ran after changing the fuel filter. Yet after a couple of weeks it has become sluggish again, frustrating.
He mentioned having the fuel pressure checked but wasn't sure quite how to do this on the vehicles.

I'll let you know how I make out.

cheers,

Todd

christian2 · April 2005

HI MY NAME IS CHRISTIAN I AM AN INDEPENDENT VW TECH IN NEW-BRUNSWICK CANADA I WORK ON TDI EVERY DAY SO YOUR PROBLEM MIGHT BE YOUR INTAKE MANIFOLD IS PROBABLY CLOGGED FORM THE EGR GOING IN TO YOUR INTAKE MANIFOLD YOU HAVE TO REMOUVE THE HOSE IN FRONT OF THE EGR LEADING TO THE INTAKE MANIFOLD AND REMOVE THE EGR TO HAVE A LOOK IF IT SEEMS CLOGGED IF YES YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE INTAKE MANIFOLD AND CLEANED IT PROBABLEBLY AND ALSO THE INTAKE PORTS IN THE HEAD I HAVE HEAD OF ONE OF MY CUSTOMER WHO HAD IT CLEANED IN AN ULTRASONIC BATH IF AVAILABLE IT SEEMS TO HAVE IT CLEANED LIKE NEW IF THIS IS NOT YOUR PROBLEM THEN CHECK YOUR CATALYTIC CONVERTOR IT MIGHT BE CLOGGED ALSO THE AIR FLOW METER COULD BE AT FAULT BUT THE ENGINE CODE AHU DOSEN'T SUFFER AS MUCH AS THE TDI ENGINE CODE ALH FROM 19991/2 UP TO 2003 SO GOOD LUCK

christian2 · April 2005

HI MY NAME IS CHRISTIAN AND I SERVICE VW FOR A LIVING I LIVE IN CANADA WHERE THERE IS A LOT OF TDI THE QUESTION OF OIL IS YOU HAVE TO USE SYNTHETIC 5W40 VW NORM 502.00, 505.00 FOR TDI UP TO 2003 AND VW NORM 500.00, 505.00.505.01 FOR PD TDI OR PUMPA DUSA I USE ELF MOTOR OIL IT IS EUROPEAN IT IS APPROVED BY VW THE TYPE YOU ARE LOOKING FOR IS ELF EXELLIUM LDX 5W40 FOR UP TO 2003 AND ELF EXCELLIUM DID 5W40 FOR PD DIESELS I'M A DISTRIBUTOR FOR ELF I SELL THE LDX FOR 7.50 CAN A LITER AND IN BULK 6.50 CAN A LITER AND FOR DID FOR PD DIESELS IS A DOLLAR MORE IF YOU WANT MORE INFO ON THE PRODUCTS GO TO WWW.ELFMOTO.COM AND USE AND EUROPEAN TYPE OIL FILTER IS RECOMMENDED LIKE MANN BOSCH HENGEST KNETCH ETC OR VW FILTER GOOD LUCK

christian2 · April 2005

VW Jetta TDI

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