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Comments
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As I mentioned earlier; as an auto mechanic for a couple of decades, that statement did not hold up. We frequently had to replace entire stick shift transmissions that were well beyond any kind of repair. We were almost always able to repair automatic transmissions. In my and my family's experience in both driving sticks and automatics in 40 plus cars, we never had to replace a single automatic but had to replace several sticks, plus the related hardware. The taxi companies where I live all have automatics, more than half are Mercedes, others are Ford and GM, and many of them have 300K miles on them. They would never consider a stick for many reasons anyway, but comparitive reliability is not a consideration.
During High School in the late 1950s I worked in a wrecking yard rebuilding manual transmissions. Lots of synchro gears were worn out. Most manual transmission problems are caused by poor drivers. Riding the clutch destroys the throw out bearing and requires replacement. I would agree a smooth driver will get good service from a manual transmission. They are a rare breed in the USA.
I would buy a vehicle with the new technology DSG transmission. I think there are several automakers using that technology now.
The Bugatti Veyron 1000 HP sports car uses the direct clutch transmission. It is a 7 speed. Most of the German cars are using one type or another. Eventually the Japanese will catch up. They are great copiers.
PS
I would not buy a MT because my wife has very severe arthritis that would painful for her to drive a stick. She did enjoy a MT in both her 911 and 914 Porsches.
At any rate, anyone who claims that automatic transmissions are anything other than inherently more trouble-prone than manual transmissions (I'm speaking of true manuals) fails mechanics 101.
That claim is so bereft of basic mechanical fundamental knowledge, I don't even know where to begin to disavow one of it, so I won't try.
But I allowed myself to get dragged off topic.
I did find one wagon TDI buyer in SoCal who says he got 45 mpg during the 38 mile drive from dealer to home [DSG equipped car]. So there's your first number, for whatever it's worth....
Heck, my TDI is just peaked out at around 85K miles. (And I measure and spreadsheet every drop of fuel thru it!)
Lets not forget that the TDI engine is rated for about 300,000 miles. (Taking the rated hours and asuming nominal driving speeds) Thus, it follows that it would take more miles to loosen it up.
Unfortunatly, a lot of folks are trading in their TDI just when the engine starts to "come to life".
This might be one of the neat advantages of the TDI ! Malmouza hints at it in a past post. The good news and the bad news: the VW TDI NEEDS to be maintained. 100,000 miles is the"refresher" interval @ which the TB/WP change tune. AT 109,000 miles I am working on my 2nd 100,000 miles interval. :shades: The Honda Civic needs one at 105,000 miles.
So far I have had 2 TSB's and just recently had to R/R the coolant sensor ($30 retail part)
link title
You can sometimes get parts (common) from vendors at GTG's. Most in a quiet moment can/will special order for you.
I have used BleachedBora, both on line and in person. He and his new wife are great folks to do business with. However in the interest of fairness, most other vendors on TDIClub.com are almost to the business: stand up !!
Here are some state by state repair gurus
link title
My wife, my adult kids (two daughters, one son) and I prefer the manual because it gives us better control of the vehicle. The differences in upfront cost, fuel economy, insurance, frequency of repair & maintenance are pluses, but were not major factors in our decision. The fact that very few people can borrow or will steal my car is something I like. I enjoy driving and exchanging/sharing driving experiences with other drivers and I find that the chat is more animated when it is shared with drivers of manual shifters.
I live in a big city, and driving in stop and go traffic is something I dislike, but the inconvenience most often is tolerable or short-term. If I find myself stuck for what would be longer than half an hour, I would just turn off the engine, or pull over, grab a bite to eat or something, and let the traffic cool down. Like everybody else, I hate bumper-to-bumper driving but not as much that I would prefer to drive an automatic because I do most of my driving on the highways anyway. To commute, I walk and ride the subway.
It is my opinion, and this is debatable, that driving with a manual also makes the driver more aware of the engine's operation and the factors affecting the movement of the vehicle, because he/she has to adapt to changing conditions which may require the shifting of gears, up or down.
Bottom line is, I am happy with my choice, Your experience may vary from mine. Driving should be fun and when it you feel it is a chore, it becomes boring. Go with what you enjoy. Happy motoring.
(I would expect over 52MPG)
Basically: EACH WHEEL can be individually sensed and braked. Couple this with G-force, yaw and steeringwheel-angle sensors. Now the computer can become involved with applying brakes or cutting throttle based on the sensor-inputs.
I beleive ESP also includes (ABS, EBD, HBA, ASR, EDL and EBA)
ABS - Antilock Braking System
EBD- Electronic Brakeforce Distribution
HBA - Hydraulic Brake Assist
ASR - Anti-Slip Regulation
EDL - Elecrtonic DIfferental Lock
EBA - Emergancy Brake Assist
This website helps explain.
NOTE: This also means that you better REPLACE that DOT4 brakefluid every 2-3 years to keep moisture out of the hydrolic system. (The brakefluid is also shared with the clutch)
I checked out the VW site you referred to, however, I'm positive that I saw stability control and traction control as options on the '09 TDI build sheet I saw circulating on the internet. Plus when I drove the Loyal Edition (demo) and took my foot off the gas pedal the EBD was so effective slowing down the car to the point where I had to re-apply the gas pedal again because the car had slowed down more than I was anticipating. Someone even commented online that this was the reason why they preferred the stick shift because it allows coasting but the DSR does not. Now with my '09 TDI-DSR sedan, when I take my foot off the gas pedal the car does not slow down to the point where I had to re-apply the gas pedal. With my car I have to apply a little brake and then the computer apparently senses it and then gears it down. So this just leaves me wondering about the ESP, stability, traction controls and EBD. Maybe the Loyal edition is just different from the TDI. Maybe someone who has test driven the Loyal edition and purchased the TDI can share their experience. Thanks.
In 73,000 miles, I think the only time the stability/traction controls so called "kicked in" (non intentional anyway) was on the Hoover Dam, CA/NV/AZ (post 9/11) when they put check points Alpha/Beta @ both access directions, due to the suspicion it was considered a likely terrorist target. It "kicked in" at considerably less than 5 mph on a slight downward drop off of the pavement !!?? :confuse:
My other take is that to increase awareness of the upper parameters/boundaries, one should periodically intentionally take it to the edge and beyond (controlled safe conditions of course). This seems highly unlikely for the majority of the systems users populations. :surprise:
What slowing the car down is the engine. The compression ratio is very high, and when you are coasting in gear - the engince breaks the car. I found that sometimes it is usefull to shift to neutral while you are coasting, you will go at least thee times as far, and the diesel mileage goes up.
Mico
In choosing between the auto and MT it may come to which one becomes available first, and I am told that is likely to be the auto.
Breaks the car?! Egad, who would sell an engine that breaks the car if you coast?
Engine braking is normal though...
In choosing between the auto and MT it may come to which one becomes available first, and I am told that is likely to be the auto.
You may want to ask your dealer for a breakdown of just the maintenance costs of the DSG. It's extremely expensive to maintain compared to a manual.
The high compression ratio of the diesel (CR 18:1) does not cause higher engine braking. A diesel does require more energy than a gasser (CR 10.5:1) to compress the air on each compression stroke, but this energy is recovered on the subsequent expansion stroke because all that high pressure air is now releasing its energy to the piston.
If this were the only difference between the diesel and the gas engines, then the two would have the same capacity for engine braking. But there is an additional difference--the diesel does not have a throttle in the air intake, whereas the gasser does. So when you let off the accelerator pedal in a gasser to coast in gear, the throttle closes, and this increases the vacuum in the intake manifold, causing a drag on the engine. The diesel has no throttle and so is a more efficient air pump, and hence has less engine braking.
Comparing a traditional manual tranny to the "automatic manual" DSG, I wonder what the downshift behavior of the DSG tranny is? If the DSG tranny stays in a higher gear while coasting, then it should be no more efficient on coasting than the manual. Overall the DSG is evidently listed by EPA as very slightly more efficient, maybe because the shifts are instantaneous. Also the average driver would probably not shift at the optimum points.
*A Jake brake works by opening the exhaust valve near TDC on the compression stroke, releasing the pressurized air into the exhaust pipe. So the energy in the compressed air is not recovered and this acts as a large drag on the engine. This makes a loud and irritating noise so the use of engine brakes is prohibited in a lot of places.
$25,850.00. We really like the car a lot, and I'm sure we will enjoy it for years to come. The whole experience was almost pleasant, including the simple satisfaction of handing them the keys to a 2002 Buick Century that had so many "check engine, Service Engine Soon, Trac Off malfunction " lights on the dash, that even some of those bulbs were starting to burn out. Even the LED odometer slowly faded out to nothing, so I had to tell the Dealer the estimated milage of around 110,000 miles. Never ever another GM product for me, never.
I have read this discussion thread regularly for about 2 months now, and I have to thank all of you for your well rounded knowlege on this car, both older ones, and about the new one sitting in my garage. It has been informative, entertaining, and fun to read all of your candid comments, and it helped me decide to go ahead with this purchase. I will send a photo or two, once I figure out how to do that.
Will report back with mileage, etc.
This is just plain wrong information! All modern fuel-injected engines actully CUT OFF FUEL INJECTION during overrun. You will ALWAYS get better MPG by leaving in gear during decelleration till the last possible moment.
As long as the engine speed is above the idle speed, there is 0 fuel injected. As soon as you push the clutch and let the engine idle, it starts to burn fuel to keep itself running.
Also, the reason a diesel engine has less "engine braking" is because there is no throttlePlate on a diesel engine which forces a gasoline engine to suck against it when it is closed.
The "secret" is to consensly seat the rings under pressure so they make a good seal BEFORE the cylinders begin to glaze. Use the pressure of the turbocharger to do this. (Bursts of full throttle accelleration followed by gentle driving to cool things off.)
You can easily coast a mile if you put the car in neutral at 65 mph, and for that mile you will be getting a coouple hundred mpg.
Rule of thumb for coasting at idle for a gasser - your mpg is about 3-4 times your speed. Diesels use less fuel at idle so this is even higher.
It uses "NO" gas
I know I’m being picky, BUT you might want to start using the word “diesel’ or “fuel” instead of gas because it is not gas. In ideal conversation it could cause confusion and maybe even disaster.
For the new diesel engines, there is no problem, they were designed for the new sulfur free Diesel, the lubrication is done by the engine own oil, and own cooling system. Anybody have anything about this subject? Tks.
From Fred's TDI FAQ http://tdiclub.com/TDIFAQ/TDiFAQ-3.html
Low sulfur - Lower sulfur content fuel is becoming more common as the limits of sulfur dioxide and other acid rain producing emissions tighten, and as it becomes necessary for manufacturers to use emission control components that do not tolerate sulfur in the exhaust from the engine.
There is a somewhat mistaken impression that sulfur in the fuel acts as a lubricant for injector pumps, and this impression stems from an older chemical process to remove sulfur which also removed other chemical compounds in the fuel that were completely unrelated to the sulfur but which turned out to be important to the lubricating properties of the fuel.
But you might want to read this link http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa5375/is_200602/ai_n21409063