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VW Jetta TDI

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Comments

  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    hi clydesdale. i understand timingbelt/waterpump are "must-repair-preventively" at about 100k. my 06 has over 80k miles and i think i'll have it done at 90k.
    (I understand it's supposed to be done officially at 80k... )
  • clydesdale57clydesdale57 Member Posts: 3
    Hi Elias, my 2005 wagon was built in Germany, while 2005 jetts were all mexican built. My engine was manufactured in poland, but I don't know if they are using the same motor in the 06's. In any case, it is a really expensive repair, which I don't remember them mentioning when I bought the car.
  • johnbrightjohnbright Member Posts: 7
    I really like the seats. I spend a lot of time on the highway and find them very comfortable. My wife has a Toyota Solara which has plusher seats and I find them comfortable as well. This is probably one of those highly individual things, like running shoes. I'm a big guy (210) but not fat and I don't mind the firmer Germanic seats even though I don't have much 'padding'... I like how easy it is to keep the inside of the car clean. I think the interior is very Teutonic -- kind of no nonsense and functional.
  • tangledup625tangledup625 Member Posts: 5
    I got my TDI Sportwagen in July and drove from Baltimore to NW Ontario (round trip about 1600 miles.) I went with my two sons. I am 6'4" as is my older son, the younger 5'8" son sat in the back. The seats are firm, but that is really what you want for long drives. I have put 9k miles on it. Seats are great. We drove back from Canada in one 13 1/2 hour drive. We stopped two times for food and diesel. I drove the entire time and was fine. For the record, I have periodic back problems and I have never driven that far in one sitting. I am a little disappointed in the lumbar support (my 00 passat's was better,) but I just folded a towel and periodically used it to build up the lumbar area. (Again, I have a bad back.) Seats are great!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    BE AFRAID Your engine is on borrowed time!!! You NEED to replace the Timing belt or sell the car. You must like "livin on the edge" - LOL

    I am serious here. You have gone welll beyond the designed-life of that TB. When it breaks, your engine becomes an instant boat-anchor. (pistons crash into valves and very expensive things break....think NEW ENGINE!)

    When the TB is replaced you SHOULD replace all moving parts that are in there. Those parts will NOT last as long as the 2nd belt. When those parts fail, the results are often the same as a broken TB. (because they ofteh break in such a disastorous way and snap the belt) It is farr cheaper to replace all those parts while it is apart than to take it apart again when the other parts decide to fail catastrophically.

    You do NOT need to have a VW dealer perform TB replacement. A dealer will NOT install a brass-impeller waterpump (they use the cheep plastic ones.)

    Honestly, I dont understand why you did not PLAN for this known preventive-maintenance item on your TDI. It is not as if this is suddenly a big surprise. What I did was research the known TDI gurus and located one within 45 minutes of my house. This guy replaces a TDI TB at least once a week.... so he has experience. I had called him and set up appointment BEFORE 100K miles. I now drive worry-free.
  • clydesdale57clydesdale57 Member Posts: 3
    Initially, I assummed the engine was such an old design, that it had a timing chain. Much to my chagrin, it has a belt! I have scheduled the car for friday AM, so let's pray that I make it! Thanks for the advice. BTW, is the OEM pump a plastic or brass design? Thanks again.
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    Well, same here although I don't have a bad back but I like a lumbar support - I always had one in each car that I ever owned. For a while I had a small lumbar pillow with memory foam but that pillow gets too hot on long drives. Now I have a metal mesh lumbar back support from AutoSport catalog that is covered with cloth that can be washed. It's the best solution so far as it breathes and your back doesn't sweat. The longest drives I ever made were few trips from Los Angeles to Okanagan, B.C. (Canada) non stop, taking my kids to summer ice hockey camps up there. Then I made frequent non-stop drives from Los Angeles to Boulder, CO where my son was studying. Firm seats are the best for such trips.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,147
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  • sdmgmsdmgm Member Posts: 1
    I have a first half 05 TDi Jetta that I just went to take on my vacation last friday. It has 160000 on it and I made it 79 miles and it dropped dead. I had it towed to the stealership (they wanted 500 bucks) and they just gave me the run down. $1989 for the timing belt, water pump idler etc etc etc. So if you can get it for 1200, take it! Or do it yourself. They told me they put 1400 in parts in it.
    Steve
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    Steve was that timing belt at 160k the first or second time it was swapped!?
  • shriftyshrifty Member Posts: 255
    I just found out today that I will be going on a 4 month "vacation" starting in mid-November and going until around mid-March, and will not be able to use my car (09 TDI). Does anyone have any suggestions on what I could/should do to prepare the car for sitting for so long? I am trying to find someone who can take the car and run it for the winter, but if not what is the best thing for me to do?
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    4 months isn't that long in the scheme of things. Many new cars sit on the lots that long before they sell. I would probably put a good quality diesel treatment in and be done with it. I believe Standayne might be good in this case, as I believe it specifically targets moisture and algae growth in diesel.
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    Diesel treatment is a must - also, when you add it, make sure your gas tank is full (same for gasoline engines) when you leave for an extended period. Full tank prevents possible moisture condensation inside the fuel tank.
    Have it run (start the engine) at least once per week (by someone, who will take care of your house, while you are gone) and run the A/C full blast that prevents various seals in A/C system from hardening and keeps them lubricated. Starting and running the engine once a week also keeps most engine moving parts lubricated.
    If you live in a cold climate and the car is not garaged, make sure you have both, radiator and windshield wiper fluids with fresh freeze-free additives. Radiator coolant can be mixed to the desired density and you can add anti-freeze agents into wiper fluid reservoir (sometimes just plain rubbing alcohol does the job).
    Don't apply the hand brake (leave the car in P or in a gear, if manual transmission).
  • longo2longo2 Member Posts: 347
    We are missing some vital info here on your TDI dropping dead @ 160,000 miles.

    If the timing belt broke I'm suprised it is only costing you $1900.00!

    When they break it causes a chain reaction that could bring the bill up nearer $4,000. (whole new top end of the engine, plus the new TBWP)

    When was the belt changed last, that's the question inquiring mind want to know?
  • shriftyshrifty Member Posts: 255
    Thanks to you and sebring for the advice, I should also have mentioned that I live in Western PA (decent amount of winter) and the car will be sitting outside. Also have the auto DSG.
  • m6userm6user Member Posts: 3,181
    I've had many "vacations" for 3-6months and I just have my wife drive the car every two to three weeks. I'm sure a month has went by between drives as we each tend to drive our own vehicles. Never any ill effects summer or winter. Now a diesel may need some fuel additive but I don't think you need to worry that much about air conditioning seals etc. Like someone else said, cars set on dealers lots for months sometimes with very little activity.
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    Just about every car's manual (in the glove box) recommends running A/C at least once every 2 weeks. Here is an example of such recommendation from one such publication:

    Tip 1: During winter many motorists forget about their auto air conditioning because it isn't necessary to use it during those cold months. But did you know that using the air conditioning on the windscreen will clear any internal fogging very efficiently, and having the heater on at the same time stops you getting cold as well.

    Tip 2: Using the auto air conditioner as noted above will also help to alleviate any need to re-gas the system. Why? Because an auto air conditioner compressor uses a seal on the drive shaft to keep the refrigerant from escaping. This seal works with the help of a thin film of oil, during winter the non use of the air conditioner allows the oil to dry up thus letting the refrigerant escape. The unknowing driver does not find out their system isn't functioning till summer arrives. Run your car air conditioner once every 2 weeks for a few minutes and you will have no problems or use it to defrost and defog your windscreen during winter.
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    I think most vehicles with climate control use the AC all the time. At least my last two vehicles showed the AC light on anytime I used climate control to keep a constant temp. It makes sense that running it would protect the seals.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I agree with most of what you have said.... EXCEPT the "run the engine once a week"

    This is a big NO NO during storage. Once an engine is prepared for storage, LEAVE IT. Just idling once a week is ASKING for condensation to build up in the crankcase. This can form acid which causes metal corrosion.

    If it *has* to be run, DRIVE it until HOT for at least 30 minutes. If you have the vehicle up on blocks (to protect the tires from flat-spots)... driving it may be a hassle.

    As a real-world example...
    People who drive short commutes will tell you that their exhaust pipes rust thru every couple years. This is because of the condensation/acid/corrosion issue I mention above. Folks that drive long commutes may never-EVER have to replace an exhaust system because the heat keeps things clean.

    As for additional comments on storage.... DONT FORGET TO CHARGE THE BATTERY. It is best to hook it up to a battery-maintainer which will monitor the battery and recharge as needed. (Schumacher battery maintainer at walmart around $20.)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I agree...just add some fuel conditioner, install a battery-maintainer, and forget about the car after that until you return.
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    Well, does this apply to diesel exhaust as well? I am not so sure as I don't see any condensation from the exhaust when I start my Tdi as oppose to starting a gasoline car and the condensation resulting from gas exhaust going through a catalytic converter. Anybody out there who had an issue with corrosion of their diesel exhaust pipes?
    In the aviation application (R-22 helicopter, for example) that is exactly what is recommended when the ship is not being used in winter. Start and run it once per week for a few minutes.
  • british_roverbritish_rover Member Posts: 8,502
    A turbine engine is very different from a regular reciprocating internal combustion engine assuming a R-22 uses a jet turbine motor.

    A diesel engine is going to act the same way as far as condensation building up in the crank case.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'd also worry about fuel dilution if you start up an engine and run it briefly and repeatedly. Not quite sure how fuel dilution relates to various diesel injection systems vis a vis gas engines but I would think any cold start fuel/air mixture would be rich.
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    Well, that makes sense - did not think about the condensation up in the crank case although I have read somewhere that some people spray inside the crank case with some special mixture just for this purpose to avoid the possible rust build up.
    Good advice though...never had that problem and in my opinion it's always better to drive it at least once a week for a while if there is someone to do it. Main issue would be a battery drain because many newer cars have all kinds of things (e.g. alarm ) running and possibly draining the battery when the car is just parked and not used.

    By the way, R-22 doesn't have a turbine motor (none of the Robinsons do) it just a plain 6 cylinder aviation engine.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You said ==> "condensation resulting from gas exhaust going through a catalytic converter"

    I cannot let such innaccuraces go by.... the H2O (water droplets) seen from exhaust is mostly a by-product of combustion. A cold catalytic converter cannot perform its job so it does not come into play until engine is fully warmed up. At that point... all H2O is in the form of steam.

    Reminder: Combustion is the combining of anything with Oxygen... (in this case Hydrogen) resulting in H2O.

    When your engine combustion-chamber runs too hot... even the Nitrogen in air combusts with the Oxygen... this is called NOx (nitrates of oxygen). The reason engines have a EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) system is specifically to reduce NOx

    Even a simple CANDLE produces H2O... just hold a butterknife over the flame for a few seconds and you will see H2O condensation on it.

    A catalytic converter is mainly intended for Oxidation of carbon monoxide to carbon dioxide. (2CO + O2 → 2CO2) also Oxidation of unburnt hydrocarbons to carbon dioxide and water (CxH2x+2 + 2xO2 → xCO2 + 2xH2O)

    Besides... the VW TDI has a catalyst in the exhaust just like a gasser engine.... so your assertion is incorrect from the get-go 8-)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    So how much H20 do you get from one gallon of gasoline?
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    5 milliliters less than one gallon water from combustion of one gallon gasoline.
  • shriftyshrifty Member Posts: 255
    Thanks again to all with their valuable input! At the moment, I'm not sure if I will have someone that is able to run the car during the winter or not, but at least now I have a much better idea of what needs to be done.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well let's say if you do or you don't, no big deal either way.
  • simeonwsimeonw Member Posts: 3
    Do the 2009 and 2010 Jetta TDI have Cruise control as a standard feature. Since I like stick shift I find on the highway cruise control adds greatly to your mpg.
  • rcarr7rcarr7 Member Posts: 19
    Yes, both MY's have cruise control as a standard feature.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    My chart shows that CC is standard for 2010, yes.
  • simeonwsimeonw Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the responses. When I get my Jetta I'll be looking forward to great mpg. Many years ago I had a diesel Rabbit but with no garage I had some hard times getting started on winter mornings. My brother has a Beatle diesel and no starting problems. Thanks again for the info.
  • jambo_29jambo_29 Member Posts: 3
    My TDI will not start. Battery is good, but nothing happens when I turn the key. All the lights come on and the radio works fine. Any suggestions?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Get out the ol' voltmeter and start troubleshooting.
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    Look up "Relay 109 TDI" in Google search and research the information. I'm not sure if 2004 TDI is affected by the relay 109 problems, however, it is well worth your time to make sure this is not the problem you are having. Could possibly save you $$$
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Is this an automatic?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Mr_Shiftright has a very good point.... an automatic xmission will NOT crank the engine if the gearshift-switch is not in the PARK position. (or switch is broken)

    For that matter, a manual xmission will not crank the engine if clutch-switch is not satisfied.(or switch is broken)
  • askfl7askfl7 Member Posts: 2
    I replaced the latch on the center armrest but was told that there is not spring to hold the latch shut. Makes no sense. Does anyone have any information, a picture or some help for me.
    Thank you
  • jambo_29jambo_29 Member Posts: 3
    It is a manual. I am getting power to the selenoid but the starter is not chattering just a single click. Since I am getting power to the starter I dont think it is an ignition switch or relay. I pulled the starter and will take it to get tested tomorrow.
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    You've said - battery is good. Just because lights come on that may not mean you have enough juice going to the starter. Have you actually tested the battery?
    If the battery is weak that is what happens - it just clicks once and that's it. Try to jump start the car with cables.
  • rcarr7rcarr7 Member Posts: 19
    Actually that is EXACTLY what happened when I needed new batteries ! So if it does jump start (with cables) that is the most likely scenario. R/R old oem battery with another new oem battery. (tops 3 mins) . I bought and deployed a battery trickle charger (Battery Tender Plus if you are interested) and it did last a couple months longer. :sick:

    The oem provided battery lasted all of app 33 mo ? Coming from SUV's whose oem batteries last 8 to10 years, that does not make me happy. However I am told 4 years is normal (tops) for (ANY) a battery to last.
  • jambo_29jambo_29 Member Posts: 3
    I tried jumping the car, I had the battery tested at an automotive shop. I was getting power the starer so I don't think it is a relay 109 problem. I pulled the starter and had it tested and the "machine" said it passed, but it did not spin at all. I am going to put a new starter in tomorrow and see if that does it.
  • rcarr7rcarr7 Member Posts: 19
    That is the real end of "systematic trouble shooting", to eliminate the likely suspects and/or get it down to the most likely. Since the starter did not turn over the motor with the extra help, the next logical step is the starter. (actually two component parts that actually do most of the wear in the starter)
  • redvwredvw Member Posts: 40
    I had my 09 TDI towed into a V.W. Dealer today for a Major Oil Leak. The details are as follows: I parked my TDI in my driveway this morning after a local drive. No mechanical problems were observed. In the afternoon I went for another drive. I barely got out of my driveway when the cars oil light started blinking, and the MFD said STOP the vehicle-low oil. I pulled back in my driveway and noticed several liters of oil on on the ground under my car.
    I had my vehicle towed to the dealer by a flatbed tow truck. The service manager called me into the shop and showed me that the oil filters housing cap had been screwed loose, and placed on-top of the housing upside down. The cap had a small piece missing just before the threads begin. Since the car had 1 1/2 quarts of oil still in the oil pan the service manager did not feel that any engine damage occurred.
    I explained to the manager that I had been home all day, that my car was locked, alarmed, and parked in my driveway. The manager insisted that someone did this damage to my vehicle. He could not explain how someone was able to get in the vehicle without the key, and without causing any damage or leaving any tool marks, or setting off the car alarm.
    I had my vehicles 10K service done at this dealership 800 miles ago. During that service the wrong oil was used, and the vehicle was severely overfilled with oil. These problems were caught by myself, and corrected before leaving the dealership.
    Is it possible that the dealer caused a third problem during my 10k service, such as not properly tightening the oil filter's cap, or was my vehicle vandalized by a Mission Impossible impersonator? Is it probable that engine damage occurred to the vehicle? If what the dealer said is true this vehicle has a severe security flaw!
    I notified V.W. customer service of this event. I was told that it would be escalated to a field representative. :sick:
  • sellaturcicasellaturcica Member Posts: 145
    Yes, this has been a past problem with VWs that I had hoped we had all overcome. It seems there is a race of intergalactic travelers, the Coilonions who have an inveterate fondness for the taste of VW parts- they stop at nothing to get at VWs....

    It was thought that the Coilonions had returned home in the mid '00s, but they seem to have reared their ugly heads again. There is, of course, a small chance that the service tech at your VW dealer could have mis-threaded the oil filter cover, but this caper has the stench of the Coilonions written all over it. Tremble in fear. ;)
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    Who was the dealer? What City and/or State so that we can all be aware?
  • redvwredvw Member Posts: 40
    Platinum V.W. Hicksville, NY
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    Normally, I always replace OEM battery with Optima battery. Non-liquid battery's technology is far superior to anything else although the price ($ 160.00 on average) is probably the reason why most manufacturers don't put it originally to start with.
    Optima rules!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    The circumstantial evidence is strong for a dealer screw-up but proving it won't be easy given the amount of time involved since the service. If I were an imaginary judge I'd have to see pictures of this cap and how it works.

    The dealer may be right that no engine damage has occurred but I'd carefully document everything that has transpired since the service---just in case.
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