Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

VW Jetta TDI

1666769717293

Comments

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    There is no question OPTIMA battery is superiour technology to LA (lead-acid) wet-cell. The Odyssey battery is even better than OPTIMA.

    These batteries claim 12-year lifespans or you can get the same amount of starting-power for 1/2 the weight..... some people NEED these features.

    HOWEVER: Unless you need the features offered by these advanced technologies, your $$ is better spent elsewhere.

    A standard LA (lead-acid) battery costs a lot less than the above-mentioned ones.. In fact, you could replace a standard LA battery several times for the same price of the fancy ones.
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    Yeah, agreed .... there are Odysseys but there are also Kinetiks, Trojans, WestCos and others, just to name a few.

    But I like the spiral/gel/AGM (Absorbent Gas Mat) technology that traps and re-cycles gas, to be the best for my application and climate location, not to mention the fact that these don't have to be mounted in upside position, do not cause corrosion, they are much lighter, etc.

    Yes, they are pricey but they are truly maintenance free and last much longer (as you have mentioned) than standard lead acid batteries. It's money worth spent for a long time worry free operation. I have had some of those in my previous vehicles as well as marine applications and found Optimas to be the best (last Optima I put was in my son's 05 Subaru Forester not long ago....).
  • m6userm6user Member Posts: 3,181
    I've never had a lead acid battery last less than 5 years. Since a good l/a cost less than $100 usually and I never know if I will keep a car more than 4-5 years (after I replace the battery) I think it would it is overkill to spend $200+.

    The batteries I buy are pretty much worry and maint free for the life of the battery. I don't think the average driver really needs one unless they live in Death Valley or Alaska possibly or they have some very special application. Like when is the last time I had to install a battery on it's side or upside down or worried that it may when 10lbs more than some other battery??? Never in over 40 vehicles owned.

    Sorry, I guess we are getting off topic somewhat. Although I guess batteries apply to all vehicles, this is probably not the thread for this discussion.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Batteries on diesel cars have to be stronger than regular car batteries. That's something to consider when you buy a replacement.
  • m6userm6user Member Posts: 3,181
    Didn't know that. Why? Are the OEM batteries on a Jetta TDI a lot different than the gasser versions?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I would think the engineers would make the TDI battery more powerful, yes. Diesels are a compression-start engine as you know, and ultra-high compression engines need more powerful starter motors, which in turn.....

    Also, there's a glow plug system to support, in addition to all the usual amenities of modern cars.

    I'd expect the alternator to be different as well. .
  • m6userm6user Member Posts: 3,181
    Tks. Makes sense. It would be interesting to find out if they actually do use a significantly higher grade/more powerfull battery or is it the same battery just tasked harder.
  • chuckycheesechuckycheese Member Posts: 13
    What is the capacity of manual transaxle for 2006 Jetta TDI? Also, what designation, i.e. SAE 80W-90, 75W-90, API GL-4? Thanks!
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    Well AGM technology, originally developed in Germany, will soon dominate the U.S. auto battery market. Right now, Johnson Controls Company makes and distributes almost all major brands sold in the U.S., including batteries sold by Sears, Walmart, Costco as well as most major aftermarket brands sold in various auto parts stores.
    Check this link, if you are interested to learn more. Lead-acid batteries will soon disappear!

    http://www.themanufacturer.com/us/profile/204/Johnson_Controls
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Consider yourself officially informed! The TDI battery is essentuially the most powerful LA battery that can fit in the battery-tray. The "gasser" volkswagens come thru with smaller, less-powerful batteries. (less lead = less weight = lower freight charges to ship the vehicles over the ocean.)

    NOTE: Most batteries are priced such that the COST is the same for a given "grade" battery. This means, people with "gasser" VWs can ask to have the TDI battery installed and the COST will not be any different than installing the origial-sized battery.
    I have done this on virtually every "gasser" VW I have owned since my 1979 VW Scirocco.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I agree with you... the ONLY time I have seen need for a fancy AGM (Odyssey) battery was in a vehicle modified for drag-racing. To reduce weight and gain space for the turbocharger-plumbing.

    I found it amazing that a battery smaller than my motorcycle-battery could start that engine.... but that is the magic of a $230 battery.

    Personally, I will stick with $80 LA batteries in my road-going vehicles. They last over 5 years even thru Vermont winters starting the engine at -15F.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    For VW/Audi xmissions, many people have "experimented" and found that the original G070 fluid is the VERY BEST in those xmissions.

    RedLine MT90 comes in a close 2nd.\

    As for capacity... I do not have the factory service manual in front of me but I seem to recall the capacity is 2L
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You could probably power your ignition system with 8/ 1.5V flashlight batteries---but of course not much else and only for a short time.

    But not glow plugs---they are a heavy draw, which is why they carry a what....80 amp fuse? 50 amps? Something like that. My Benz diesel needed 80 amp fusing.
  • tjburkejrtjburkejr Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2009 Jetta TDI with 6,700 miles. I have now had dashboard warning lights come on twice, the first for emissions and the second, now, for an airbag fault. I live in Colorado, where we just had a freak autumn snowstorm of about 20 inches. The airbag fault light came on around then. I thought the sensor might just have got wet. It was a lot of snow.

    When I took the vehicle to the dealer for the first emissions light incident, the tech said he couldn't reproduce the fault. He told me that the computer will find what it thinks is a fault, turn on a warning light, and then keeps on testing. If it can't reproduce the circumstance that caused the fault light to go on the first time, it turns itself out. Is this true?

    If so, I wonder if the airbag fault light is the same sort of thing.

    Any ideas on how to avoid killing a day with the car at the dealer for every time a fault light comes on and probably doesn't mean anything significant?
  • redvwredvw Member Posts: 40
    Read these complaint in which two 2009 Jetta's had unnecessary air bag inflation's.

    http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov

    1. ODI ID Number : 10286347
    2.ODI ID Number : 10275729
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    Well formulated bpeebles... except:

    "less lead = less weight = lower freight charges to ship the vehicles over the ocean"

    I hope that was a joke, right?

    Ro/Ro vessels that haul cars across the Pond are not paid by weight but per unit/car. Many manufacturers (like VW) have their own sub-contracted vessels and shipping costs are appx $ 150.00 per car, regardless of the weight.
  • farmertullfarmertull Member Posts: 14
    I would like to do this through Tirerack.com but they say I have to buy tire pressure monitor sensors. Is there a way to run without them ? I have a 2010 TDI Sportswagon.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    Yes it's fine to shun TPMS for the winter- I override it with a small piece of black electrical tape. Tire shops may be prohibited from proceeding like that.
    Theoretically you could make a typo and indicate to tirerack that your car was an 06 without TPMS and then they'd ship you TPMS-free tires/wheels for your "06 TDI" that would coincidentally fit your 09 too.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think it depends on the system being tested, but yes, generally if there is a "one time only" fault, the check engine light will reset. I'm not sure about other types of warning lights however.

    Quite frankly, if I own another German car, I'd buy a good scanning tool and take care of these warning light resets myself. They seem all too frequent.
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    That's a good idea - if I ever have a problem with warning lights that is what I will do - buy a good scanning tool....never had those problems with many other cars that I have owned in the past....but I guess, nowadays, when there is so much electronics in newer cars (and related charges for simple corrections by dealers) a good scanning tool is a must!
  • glintglint Member Posts: 1
    Hi
    U can find other battery at www.autopartsway.ca .
  • redvwredvw Member Posts: 40
    I received a call from the owner of Platinum V.W. today. He seemed very angry with me for making a complaint to V.W.'s customer service department. He did not seem interested in discussing my complaint, and told me the oil leak was my fault. I was also told that I loosened my own oil cap because I am a tinkerer. When I told him what I believed had happened to my car, I was called a lier. I asked the owner If we could let the factory representative settle this case. The owner told me not to service my car at his dealership. I then suggested we could settle this case with The Better Business Bureau, and I was warned not to do that. I asked why not let an impartial party settle this case? The owner told me I would be committing a fraud. :mad:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    There is no need to 'guess' how an OBDCII vehicle will behave with reguards to troublecode resetting. The federal government has defined the operation of the resetting of fault-codes. Based on severity, most CEL will reset after 50 "trips" with no fault.

    The federal government has also defined what a "trip" is.
    essentullay;
    1)engine start below a specific temparture
    2)run till temp goes above specific target

    It may be *weeks* before someone acheives 50 of these predefined "trips" which will affect a reset of the CEL.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    It amazes me that someone with that attitude could own an lemonade-stand let alone an autobmobile dealership.
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    What I would do is write them both, VW cust. svce dept and the dealership. What you want to have is a "paper trail" down the line, just in case there is really a problem. You should get a written response from both.

    I once had a similar problem with Range Rover because I may be what they consider "tinkerer" as I do a lot of work on my cars myself, under warranty or not. Many items that you do yourself will not void warranty as long as you keep meticulous records. You can also get reimbursed, depending on manufacturer's policy, for parts, etc.

    You have many choices to find another dealership in the area where you live.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    I'm still considering a 2010 and besides the fact the nearest dealers all want sticker....I've already decided I will have nothing to do with their "free service". I did 90% of the work on my '00 TDI through 200k miles and the couple run-ins I had with a couple different dealer service departments....all sent my blood pressure up. VW and Toyota dealers are absolutely horrid in my area. The good news is I've so far never needed them on my Tundra. I absolutely love the 2010 Jetta TDI but it's not great enough to be bent over on the sale and any future trips to the dealer.
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    Unfortunately, there is no way around "free service" nor any discount if you chose to do it yourself. Actually, you should not mention it when negotiating the price. Dealers usually bill VW regions for this work and if you don't come there for "free" service it's a lost revenue for them.

    What they "want" is one thing but once you walk in and start negotiations (if you have time and patience) not that many dealers would leave you walking out without some kind of a deal! If you have more than one dealer in town, I would work one against another one hoping the same owner doesn't own both franchises.

    Ask them, when you walk in, how much they want to make on that car (rather than telling them what do you want to pay or them telling you what they want for the car). Once they give you a figure, do your homework on Edmunds website and you come up with the price that you want to pay. You should not pay more than 300 to 500 over the "invoice".
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    I've bought enough vehicles to know how to work the process (bought 20+ so far this year for my company.....). My nearest VW dealer is 45 minutes away in a major metro where I would prefer to buy and maybe have it serviced. They're a HUGE dealer (by VW standards....) but during a brief discussion they were quite clear they weren't budging from sticker. I'm not one to EVER sit for hours negotiating a car purchase. My time is more valuable than that and if they don't want to deal I just walk. They have never called me back. I have dealt in the past with a dealer about six hours away and they have offered me an invoice deal over the phone and will locate the vehicle exactly how I want it. My preference however would be to buy at the "local" dealer where it would be convenient to get warranty work performed. I know from past experience this nearest dealer is very snobby about repairing a car you didn't buy from them. Oh they'll fix it (maybe right, maybe not) but don't expect them to do it in a timely fashion. It's not really about the money for me, I just refuse to overpay for something. And if that's what it comes down to, I just don't buy.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    I would send a "confirming" letter to that person at the dealership with a copy to VW's Cutomer Care people. I would document each of the dealer's accusations and each of your replies. The bridge is already burned...you won't want to take your car there no matter how this all works out. And, yeah, I'd send a copy to the Better Business Bureau, as well, if for no other reason than to tweak the dealer.

    Every time I read how many cars VW wants to sell in the States in the near future it seems that I run across a story like yours that illustrates how muh of a challenge VW is facing.
  • colloquorcolloquor Member Posts: 482
    Unfortunately, there are more dealers like this than there should be. A good example is our local dealer, they refuse to use the factory specified ATF. Rather, they push a synthetic "equivalent" that really doesn't meet the factory spec. I don't know how they continue to get by with it, but they do.

    I've come to the firm conclusion that when it comes to vehicle maintenance, the vast majority of owners are totally uniformed sheep. Those who participate in these forums, however, are not.
  • tjburkejrtjburkejr Member Posts: 7
    Well, it's time to eat a little crow. I took the 2009 Jetta TDI into the dealer to look at the airbag fault light glowing. The tech called back mid-afternoon to tell me that an airbag sensor mounted in the front bumper had in fact failed. There were no replacements in the state, so he is sending to "the coast" (which one I don't know) for the part.

    This is all interesting, but I'm getting a little tired of dragging what is still a new car back to the dealer for nits and gnats. A rear passenger side window kit, a new screen over the pollen filter (original was badly warped), a recall to reflash the DSG transmission's computer chip, and now a bad airbag sensor. These are all small things, to be sure, but my Honda-owning friends are starting to rib me a little.
  • farmertullfarmertull Member Posts: 14
    Where, exactly, do you cover with electrical tape?
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    TPMS - tire pressure monitoring sensor - is usually mounted on the wheel/rim close or next to the tire valve stem.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    farmertull, i put the black electrical tape on the instrument panel plastic 'window' so it occludes the flashing/solid TPMS indicator, to my eyes. I do the same for the DRL indicator in both my cars. Also I block an annoying MPH/KPH light on my other car's panel similarly.
    ps - I've noticed that the mechanics who do the state inspection each year remove the tape.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Dont let your Honda-owning buddies rib you too much...

    ANY new vehicle can have these kinds of nit-pickey items that need to be addressed. The bigger issue is HOW YOUR DEALSERSHIP APPROACHES THE PROBLEMS.

    Honda-dealers are well-trained to make the customers feel like a king. They often bend over backwards to please the customers.... even if it is obviously not really a problem with the car.

    Other car-makers have not invested as much as Honda has in dealership-training to keep the customers happy. There have been a number of Hondas in my family over the years. I found the number of nit-picky problems was not less than any other vehicle...

    HOWEVER here are a some things the Honda dealer did without question
    *) Key locked in car out in the boonies (was fishing with my dad)
    **) Honda dealership cut a key and hand-delivered it to us where we found a telephone to call from....then they drove us to the car which was many miles out a dirt road.

    *) Tires were found to be wearing slightly faster on inside edge.
    **)Honda dealer not only performed an alignment (not normally covered by warantee) but they also replaced all 4 tires at no charge to me.

    *) Daughters gas gauge on her 9-year old Honda was acting up. I asked Honda dealership if I could look at the Wiring diagram for a couple minutes
    **) Honda dealership told me to TAKE THE BOOK for the weekend and copy the pages I needed.

    Bottom line: No other vehicle-make I have ever owned had a dealer-network that treated me like I spell-out above. ONLY HONDA Dealers have treated me like that. You can see how a Honda-owner could easilly overlook nit-picky problems with their new Honda if they were treated like this.

    However, I prefer Volkswagen automobiles over Honda. I also drive past 2 local VW dealershiips and go nearly 100 miles to a VW dealership that treats me right.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    Agree on the dealers. I've had great experience at many brands, most recently with our Honda dealer on our Odyssey. We were quite intimate the first couple years as we've NOT had they expected Honda experience, but all problems were handled quite well. Actually, the only dealers I've had truly horrible experience is Toyota and VW. I have to drive an hour to a Toyota dealer I can stomach. Really haven't found a VW dealer I like.
  • shriftyshrifty Member Posts: 255
    So far I can honestly say I have had positive experiences at my VW dealership with the first 3 services, and one warranty issue on day 2 of ownership (Doh!). The service has been quick and done well, and they have the correct oil for the 09 TDI. I go to Sendell Motors in Greensburg PA.
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    My 3 visits to VW dealership are overall positive. The warranty clutch pedal rubber cover replacement and initial service check was prompt and quick.

    Yesterday's visit to their parts dept. was a surprise: they do not have rear wiper blade for 09 Jetta Wagon in stock! One would assume such a common item should always be in stock. Unfortunately, I could not find that item anywhere on the web - I was searching for that item over a week now and all I can see are front wipers. The only site where they have them is on e-Bay in U.K.!

    My next visit will be at 10,000 miles but since I have changed my oil and filter at 7,500 (and re-set the service interval check light on my dash board) I will only have them do the rest of the 10 K inspection; i.e. tire rotation and moving components check.

    I plan to do my oil/filter changes myself at 7,500 intervals rather than 10,000 even though it may cost me extra because these are covered by VW at no cost. In my 40-some years experience with oil changes in this country I yet have to find one dealer (or quick lube) that would do this right - and that would include brands like Lexus, Mercedes, BMW, Range Rover - to name a few. I always find some clips missing on the undercover or some other small items that were not done to my satisfaction. Last oil change on my Saab 9-3 the dealer did not even bother to put the undercover back!

    Our 2 visits to a local Honda dealership were not satisfactory.

    First, we wanted to have a mid-section plastic undercover replaced because some clips were missing and the cover fell down and broke in half. Service manager (with a negative approach) told me that Honda doesn't cover road hazards although this was caused clearly by fasteners not being properly installed at the assembly. Later, after they submitted the claim to Honda, the replacement was declined by Honda.

    This was a $ 13 item (that I bought later over the internet) The dealer wanted to charge me $ 70 plus labor to install. I had a micro fiche print out with exact part number and wholesale prices. The service manager was shocked with comments: "...where did you get this...?" Obviously, they don't like "informed" customers.

    Second, we made a B1 service appointment over the internet. When we showed up at designated time, the service dept. was closed due to "inventory". Someone forgot to disable the appointment link on the internet. Granted, they later called and performed the service at no charge but our time was wasted.

    We hear negative stories from our friends about this dealership. It seems that the problem is, if you live in a town that only has one dealer for a particular brand, that there is no competition and people really have no other choice. One could drive 40 to 50 miles to another Honda dealer but that is not convenient for people that have to work.
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    Nowhere to be found! Called several dealers, speacial ordered through a local VW dealer's parts dept - but to no avail. They cannot tell if and when they will have them.
    One would think VW would carry such an oprdinary item - but no cigar!
  • shriftyshrifty Member Posts: 255
    You would think you'd be able to get replacement parts rather easily on a new car, even if it isn't in stock! Have you checked to see if an older model has a compatible rear wiper?
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    I have been checking and looking for this item for 2 weeks now. Rear wiper blade for 09 Wagon is a new design - so called "aero wiper" and has special hook/attachment that I could not find on any previous models.

    Also, the rubber part/blade cannot be removed (cannot slide out) from the frame of the blade as it is permanently sealed.

    I have called VW customer center and they told me it's a new car and they may not have all replacements available. Also, I tried to send them an email but after entering my VIN number on their website I get error that such VIN does not exist.

    Asked VW cust. center that question as well and I was advised that newer cars are not yet in their database ???!!! So anyone with "newer" VW - be on a lookout!
  • shriftyshrifty Member Posts: 255
    I may be confusing the Sedan with the Wagon, but the 09s went on sale around August of 08 (bought mine in Sept) so they are currently over a year old. To me this seems a bit odd that the parts aren't available for cars that have been on the market for more than a year. Is this typical?
  • shriftyshrifty Member Posts: 255
    I guess another question to ask, what happened to your current wiper that it wore out so fast?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I agree with the last question... a REAR wiper usually lasts about 3 years because it is used very rarely. Whilst at speed, the REAR glass hardly even gets wet in the rain.

    Perhaps you used the wiper while there was grit on the glass... that will wear a wiper AND scratch the glass too! Grit on the glass is best removed using other means besides rubber wiper.
  • cosmocosmo Member Posts: 203
    Station wagon's, SUV's, vans and fastbacks have rear wipers BECAUSE road spray accumulates on the rear window/hatch due to draft at speed and hinders visibility. This is not a problem on sedans because of draft dynamics. I, for one, am not going to park every mile, get out, and remove the road spray "by other means" in pouring rain. VW was smart enough to equip wagons with rear wipers so I don't have to. My Passat wagon is 5 1/2 years old, and amazingly, I don't have scratched glass. However, I do go through two rear wipers a year just so I have a full view of what is behind me in rain and snow.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Gotta agree with you, Cosmo. The rear window is always wet with road spray, even if it's not raining. If the road is wet, the rear window is also wet while the car is in motion.

    I got through a rear wiper a year, and the last couple of months only provide marginal wiping ability.
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    From my past experience, rear wipers last for appx 1 year in almost year-round sunny conditions (had that problem with many other rear wipers on various models). As a matter of fact, it is common that you should change rear and front wipers with each oil change (the "old" change; i.e. every 3000 to 5000 miles).

    They are still there but they do not wipe rear window clean and they squeek.
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    In my climate, rear (and front) wipers do not last 3 years - if you squeeze 1 year out of them consider yourself lucky!

    Each and every morning (in humid FL climate) you have to use both, front and rear wipers. Glass is ALWAYS wet!

    Your remarks remind me of an attitude that Audi had several years ago when their cars accelerated without any reason....always blame the driver, right?

    That cost Audi a lot and they almost had to pull out of the US market...

    Therefore, no - I did not use them when there was grit on glass....
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    I would think that another question isn't what happened to the wiper but rather where do you find replacement, when VW does not have them... anybody out there with an answer?
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    Another issue is that rear wiper automatically turns on, when you use front wipers and you shift into rear gear when staring the car ... on all 2009 Jetta Wagons... just F.Y.I.
Sign In or Register to comment.