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VW Jetta TDI

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Comments

  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    joqousa, it turned out that those 1980s audis accelerated for a good reason - the driver in each case pushed down on the accelerator instead of the brake.
    back then, the pedal-offset on some audis was a little different than most cars sold in USA, probably contributing to the errors. but there is no doubt that it was driver error that caused all the "unintended acceleration".
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    It may very well have been the case but the approach and the attitude that Audi took at that time cost them a lot - Audi is still recovering from that ill-advised approach blaming the driver initially even before they thoroughly investigated the reasons. I vividly remember that case - I had a few Audis at that time myslef.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If the victims had stated that they hit the brakes and the brakes were smoking but couldn't quite stop the car, I'd have believed the unintended acceleration theory (we hear this account today with certain modern cars today, and it's believable). But the Audi victims insisted that their car accelerated AND the brakes completely failed at the same time. This stretched my capacity to believe them.
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    I agree - I also believe it was driver's fault - but - that is not the point. The P.R. people (and Teutonic attitude) at Audi should have had a different approach than blame drivers right away.... the point is "customer is always right" attitude should have been applied. We all agree that this incident damaged Audis reputation for a long time, even up until today...
    But that, being off the subject, doesn't solve my problem with regards to rear wiper blade....
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I throw my rear blade away once a year, in September, just before rainy season.
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    Smart move ... AAA So. Calif and AAA South (FL) also recommend replacing all wiper baldes with each oil change...and that's what I do also but this time around, I ran into earlier described difficulty.
    But VW is not the only one who tries to have their wiper blades "proprietary" ....if they all would make an universal joint/attachment so that one can use any aftermarket blade that would make it simple for most folks!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Am I the only one that finds it interesting that the original subject "Where to get a rear wiper blade?" has turned into a "unintended acceleration" discussion tryung to blame the automaker ??

    In any case. I do not see the big deal with rear-wipers anyway.... I guess I spent too many years driving a TRUCK which forces one to learn how to drive /back-up using only the outside mirrors. Once I masterd using mirrors, I now use them even in cars to reverse perfectly into a parking-spot.

    If one is not backing up... what would the purpose be to enguage the rear-wiper anyway?? Properly-adjusted side-mirrors will give you all the info you need.

    As for replacing the wipers once-a-year... I cannot afford that expense. Instead, I keep a good layer of "RAINX" on all the outside glass and mirrors. With RAINX, there is no need to even *HAVE* windshiled-wipers over 40 MPH. The non-polar coating of RAINX makes the water practicly fly off the glass. (If you have never used RAINX... then you should try it yourself it is almost like magic!)

    As a bonus, here in Vermont, a good coating of RAINX keeps ice from sticking to glass too! I would guess if you live where bugs are prevalant, they would not stick too well either.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Geez, what do those VW wipers cost? I was thinking $6. I guess I am naive about that. :blush:
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    They cost $ 22 - I have just "special" ordered them from a local Dealer.

    I stopped using RainX few years back, after the inventor who patented that product (a fellow from San Diego that I knew) sold his company to Blue Coral.

    It's a fine product, when you drive at certain speed and true, ice doesn't stick to the window. But you have to apply it every 3 months or so (in certain climates) so regular wipers are far better. RainX is also hard to remove from windshield (similar to silicon). When RainX is applied, regular wipers don't work as they are suppose to work. It works best on airplane windshields and windows though - as originally intended and patented.
  • cosmocosmo Member Posts: 203
    There are some interesting raves and rants on Edmunds' RainX forum. Consumer Reports was not complimentary regarding the product. I tried it ONCE back in the early '90's.
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    Interesting - did not know about Consumer Reports findings. That basically confirms my experience with that product because CU normally thoroughly researches product (similar to Edmunds) before they release findings to the public.

    I believe Blue Coral (makers of RainX) has now a reformulated product of windshield wiper fluid that includes traces of original RainX.

    Here some more from BMW forum elsewhere:

    Quote:

    My wipers worked fine until I applied rainx to the windshield. Now the drivers wiper blade "chatters" as it wipes. The passenger side is fine. Any advice on what to do to correct this? What can I use to remove the rainx coating?
    I like how it works but can't stand the wiper blade chattering on the downward motion.

    thanks

    I had the same issue with Rain-X. I used Rain-X's own glass cleaner which did a pretty good job of removing the rain repellant. Then I used some Windex and have not had a problem since.

    End quote.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    I recommend to keep one's vehicle rear wiper in good shape in case of unintended acceleration in reverse. That applies additionally for unintended reverse velocity.
    Yet when I actually drove a 2003 jetta TDI variant, I let the rear wiper decay until it risked falling apart and wiper-arm scratching the rear glass!
    I avoided driving backwards-in-the-correct-travel-direction on the interstate with that vehicle, so the rear wiper didn't matter so much.
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    That's funny, Elias!
    Glad someone here has a good sense of humor...

    In the meantime, I am anxiously awaiting a 15" $ 22 piece of rubber....

    While at that, someone stole one of my small VW plastic hub cap from one of my wheels... I wonder how much will that set me back....but I see those on various websites so I won't have to bother the VW parts dept. again.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Now this is GERMAN rubber and GERMAN plastic, so keep your socks on when you get the bill. :P

    Having owned and worked on Porsches, I know that the German automakers do not blush when charging for parts. My favorite is a $4400 Porsche brake rotor. Now, really....
  • british_roverbritish_rover Member Posts: 8,502
    Tell me that wasn't made of some plebeian steel or iron and it was made out of something more exotic.

    Factory wiper blades for Range Rovers are about 60 bucks a pair.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yeah, some hi-tech ceramic compound. But still, $10,000 to do front pads and rotors? Of course, there was also my $1400 Porsche 928 radiator.

    Well $22 hurts for a wiper blade but at least it's bearable.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    They gotta prep you with out of sight prices on the little things, so when you need the DSG serviced for $500 or the timing belt for $1,000 you won't blink.

    I may have missed it, but was the just the insert or the entire blade? I know most blades are pretty pricey these days. I swapped out the blades on our Odyssey with several different types that didn't work all that well. Decided to go back to Honda blade and they were $30 each. The inserts are only about $7 so you really shouldn't ever need the blade unless you do something stupid like I did and toss them out....
  • british_roverbritish_rover Member Posts: 8,502
    I never replace inserts on a car. The tips of my fingers are worth more then a few dollars for the whole blade.

    For many higher end cars the wipers are all one piece anyway so there is no insert to replace. They use those all one unit parabolic wipers that don't have any arms to put pressure points on the windshield. When you lift the wiper off the glass it curves to form an arc that isn't a perfect parabola but is close.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    I just let the service guys mess with it on the Honda. One of the only dealers I can stomach paying to do this stuff. It's been the only vehicle I haven't had luck with aftermarket blades, so they swap out the inserts for $7. Cheaper than blades at Wallyworld.
  • tdidawgtdidawg Member Posts: 8
    We own an 05 VW TDI wagon (purchased Nov 04) and will take delivery next month on an 10 TDI Sportwagen. What has been people's experience in breaking the latest version? What should I look for? Our experience with the 05 has been great.
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    Well, just picked up the rear wiper - talked VW into discount and paid $ 18.00
    But - it is not German made - the label is in Spanish and reads:
    RAQUETA - 1PZA P/N 1K9-955-427 F. de Caducidad: Assembled in USA
    So, with my limited knowledge of Spanish, it means material is from Mexico and it is assembled in USA.
    That more less confirms the original MSRP label that was on my car, when purchased. In effect, all metal parts and metal components are made in Germany and all plastic parts are made in Mexico. What it translates to is that those Germans do not want to ruin their environment in EU (manufacturing plastic is not very "green") and have plastic parts made in Mexico or some less developed EU countries like Spain and Italy. Plastic VW wheel hub caps are made in Spain, for example.
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    I replaced wipers on my 09 Honda Civic with Valeo (aftermarket) blades, same as on my 05 Subaru Forester. Valeo, in my opinion, are the best aftermarket wipers. Unfortunately, Valeo does not make rear wiper blades.
    Valeo is available everywhere on the web (like Tire Rack, etc).
  • tangledup625tangledup625 Member Posts: 5
    I'm not sure how many '10s you will come across, but I purchased a new '09 in July and it has been flawless. I have the six speed standard and have already put 6,500 miles on it, a 50/50 mix of town and highway driving. I honestly have nothing negative to comment on. It has all been good. I was surprised that the manual only required the first oil change at 10k miles, that they don't change the oil and filter at the 5k mark, when they suggest that you have the car's fluids etc. inspected (free of charge) by the dealer. I chose to have the oil and filter changed at about the 5k mark by an authorized VW mechanic, but not a dealer. (I was afraid that if I did it myself I would void the service warranty.)
    I'm thrilled with the car's performance. I'm still trying to get the balance right for the defroster. (It seems to fog up pretty quickly on wet, cold mornings and is a little less responsive to the defroster than my '00 Passat is. (Yes, I have an '00 Passat 4 cyl gas turbo that I love, too. It has 170k on it, original clutch, runs like a champ.) My wife was getting nervous that it would choose to breakdown when we were on our annual pilgrimage to NW Ontario (800 mile from home) so we got the new wagon. On the highway it gets mpg of as much as 49 (if I stay at 65 mph) in the low-mid 40's when I drive my usual 7 mph over the posted speed limit and about 8mpg less if I put our roof rack and Yakima box on the top.
    Enjoy! :)
  • tangledup625tangledup625 Member Posts: 5
    I know that this is an old post, but it caught my eye. My family has VWs and Toyotas. I like the VWs for their driving feel, but the Camrys that we have had have been unbelievable from the lack of maintenance and durability perspective. We had a 1988 Camry sedan that we drove for 12 years and 340k miles...ORIGINAL CLUTCH! It blew a gasket at 166k, (<$1000 repair) other than that, we spent nothing on it except a new battery and muffler about every 4 years and changed the oil every 3k. The wiring harness finally started to fail. Shorts on wet days led to lack of headlights etc, but the engine ran fine up until the day we gave it to the Salvation Army. (Having said all that..., I still would rather drive my 2000 Passat gas turbo wagon or my 2009 TDI Sportwagen!
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    Doing oil changes yourself does not void warranty - as long as you keep meticulous records, such as receipts for purchases of correct oil (Tdi requires special oil), oil filter, oil filter seal and plug. Tdiparts.com on the web sells "oil change" sets that include all that and you have a record and receipt.
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    My family has 2 x Toyotas (Camry), 1 x Honda Civic, 1 x Subaru Forester and 1 x 09 VWJetta Tdi Sportwagen.
    From practicality point of view, I like Subaru the best (ground clearance, trunk/cargo space, winter driving, towing).
    From mileage and "fun to drive" point of view I like VW the best (manual transmission, acceleration, cornering, suspension, panoramic glass roof).
    From reliability point of view it's a toss between Camry and Civic (parts for Toyota are a bit cheaper than parts for Honda).
    From maintenance/mechanical point of view (easy self-repairs) Subaru is the best.
  • sayitisntsewsayitisntsew Member Posts: 1
    Looking into trading in Audi for VW 2009 or 2010 Jetta Sport TDI Wagon......Anyone have any experience with the Triptronic (Automatic) transmission VERSUS manual transmission. I read in a forum on Motortrend that the torque of the TDI motor was to hard on the automatic transmission- but that wasn't from an actual 'owner' just a tester...Also because I have had so many issues with the Audi I would love to hear the yea's and nay's on the TDI.
    Thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Are you certain it is the "tiptronic" and not the "DSG" xmission?

    I understand that the DSG xmission can achive nearly perfect matchup to all driving conditions. It is the only auto xmission in the world that can compare to a well-shifted manual.

    In other words, the DSG is the only "automatic" I would consider with a TDI.

    Why consider a TDI if not for the MPG...and why compromize a TDI with an automatic xmission?
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    I have a 6-speed manual on my 09 Jetta SportWagon and I love it.
    I took a test with DSG but I liked the manual better. You get a slightly better mileage with manual. But if you have to commute in a stop and go traffic every day, then DSG would be my choice. It's a matter of personal preference.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    I drove both '09 DSG and 6-speed manual cars. While I see the pros/cons of both I would have to buy the manual simply because of the maintenance on the DSG. The first service is required at 40k miles (conveniently beyond the "free" maint) and it's quite expensive (I've seen quotes from $300-$500+ at dealers). I also have to wonder how long that DSG will last and what the cost to replace would be. The previous automatics were about $4,000 if you had VW do the exchange so I don't even want to think what the DSG would cost to replace/rebuild. Considering most folks that buy TDI's drive above average miles and are trying to save money on fuel....it doesn't make sense in my mind to take on considerable extra maintenance cost and potential repairs down the road.
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    I also heard (from VW) that manual transmission (pads on clutch that normally wear out after certain time) is designed for 1 million + applications therefore you may not have to change clutch pads as long as you own the car; i.e. they will last beyond all other moving components. I remember changing pads on manual clutch way back, when I lived in Europe.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    Translate this to German, and we may have the VW Clutch Pad Designers' Planvnerhugen: http://www.matthewbarr.co.uk/sounds/1million.wav
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    I like your jokes, elias! Austin Powers rules!
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    Few weeks ago I noticed some water in the spare tire well. I took the spare tire out each time and there was appx 1/2" of water there. Finally, today, when I took the spare tire out I found the leak. The inside wall of rear bumper (inside the spare tire well facing backwards), where sheet metal layers overlap, I found a stream of water coming from the end of 2 metal sheets overlap, where the putty is applied on the seam, on the assembly line. The putty wasn't applied on all overlaps and that is where the leak was. I dried the spot with hair dryer and sealed the overlapping metal sheets with "quick steel" putty. Hopefully that will cure the problem.
    I urge all owners of Jetta sedans and Wagons to take out the spare tire from the well and see, if it is dry. If not, you have to locate the spot, where water leaks, and seal it. Not that many folks look there frequently, perhaps only when you need to change the flat. I would be interested if anyone out there on this Forum have had similar problem.
  • longo2longo2 Member Posts: 347
    Amazing!

    From your description of your leaky Jetta, it sounds just like what Ford did for years that ruined all the F 150 and up boxes. They too had 2 sheets of metal overlaping and the open seam is right above the rear tires. This allows all the road salt, sand, and other debris to get blasted into the open joint, drain down and accumulate in between the 2 sheets of metal that is sealed at the box lip.

    The only way out for that toxic mix is right through the fender just above the rear wheels.

    As I was doing repairs to mine, I spotted the problem and can not believe that Ford let that go for years. All they had to do was just what you (and I) did...seal that seam! It has eventually ruined every Ford truck box in Canada, and any boxes in the U.S. in wet States and where salt is used.

    My point is, try and find the seam from underneath where the water hits it and seal it outside too so no water and salt can get through between the 2 sheets, stop and start munching metal at your inner repair.

    Don't get me started on the Chysler cars from the 70's where some genious convinced the Brass that they could save $5.00 on each car (that's how much it cost me to put mine in) by not putting in the plastic inner front fender liners...as I recall they went bankrup then too from all the rusted out fenders they had to replace and then got a Govt . Bailout.

    Mind you, in Florida, without driving in salt spray for 5 months of the year like we do, I'm sure you will have a new Subaru TDI wagon before your Jetta rusts out.
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    Well the way I noticed (that something is strange) was that my windows kept fogging inside the car. Reminds me a few years back, when one of my kids did not have a diaper and on a long drive on I-5 I couldn't figure out, why my windows all of a sudden started fogging out. The kid peed on the seat (while asleep) and the moisture was the culprit.

    Yes, in FL, in Spring and Summer, we have a monsoon rain at least once a day. Granted, no salt - thanks God.

    But typically, these cars and metal sheet seams are designed in such a way that "when water comes in - water drains out". Rear stop/brake/backing light cluster assemblies are one of such designs.

    If I would not have found the leak, I was going to open of of the pre-drilled holes on the bottom of the spare tire well (that are currently plugged by plastic/rubber plugs) and in that way "water would come in and water would drain out". There is also such thing as one-way water plugs that allow the water drain but the outside water does not leak in (Saab has several of them in the engine bay).

    When I visited assembly lines in Sweden (Saab + Volvo) and BMW near Munich, I saw them, how they seal these overlapping metal sheets - It is one of the few tasks that "humans" do, most of other work on assembly lines are robotics.

    In VW case, those "unhappy" assembly line workers (heard they was a strike there not long ago) obviously didn't do a good job sealing those overlapping metal sheets with the putty before the car is dipped into a paint bath.

    Another problem is that those overlapping metal sheets may not be only underneath the car. VW has many draining passages throughout the body that one has to seal it inside. For example, sunroof/moon-roof drains through inside passages, windshield wiper wells have drainage inside the fenders, etc.etc. There are quite a few drainage passages inside the skeleton of the car. One can see those clearly, when you watch the electric spot welding of the body on car assembly lines.
  • longo2longo2 Member Posts: 347
    That is more potential rust issues than the entire VW factory peeing in each car as it rolls off the line!

    I think you have just introduced some scary information that will cause new Jetta owners some extra walks to the bathroom in the middle of the night.
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    I hope those, that you have mentioned, don't need diapers nor do they drive....
  • longo2longo2 Member Posts: 347
    While we fret about the cost of a VW rear wiper blade, I just noticed this item on VW Parts Outlet Center sale site...hope you Touareg V10'ers are strapped in........................

    ENGINE 07Z-100-011-M $35656

    $6600 81% 0ff Touareg V10TDI 04-05

    Over the counter engine price is $35,656 OMG! sounds like with 81% off tho, we should stock up.

    BTW when I checked Jogo's comment about his favorite wiper blades I ran across this deal..

    "With every Valeo ULTIMATE Wiper Blade you purchase from Tire Rack&#146;s in-stock inventory, you will receive one free! Offer valid while supplies last. Valeo ULTIMATE OE Wiper Blades not included in this offer." :shades:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I beleive this.... ESPECIALLY with a TDI. WIth all that torque - one does not even have to touch the throttle to enguage the clutch. Dont forget that HEAT destroys a clutch and at Idle, you cannot generate much heat.

    Said another way.... since your clutch is fully enguaged BEFORE you acclellerate, there is virtually zero clutch wear because it does not wear when fully-enguaged.

    Of course, a propery-driven manual will not wear out a clutch for over 200K miles even with a gasoline engine. (repeated personal experience!!)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    To help the rest of us -- What year vehicle are you talkiung about here?

    Do not forget that VW has the 12Year/unlimited Milage corrosion warantee. I can tell you from personal experience that VW DOES IN FACT honor it. (I got new front fenders due to the ol' foam-glue seperation issue)

    VWs are intended, engineerd, designed and developed for the long haul.... not 90K mile trade-in material.
  • shriftyshrifty Member Posts: 255
    I am quickly approaching the 40K service, currently around 38K. I think at my dealership I saw the number closer to $300, but I'll find out when I pay the bill. If I'm not mistaken, the transmission fluid is every 40K on this car? The 40K service seems to be one of the bigger services, obviously the timing belt is going to be more expensive when that time comes.
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    I am talking about 2009 ...

    Well, 12 year unlimited mileage corrosion warranty - that's nice - OK then, tell me what they will do in a few years to honor that warranty - they will cut out the spare tire well with a torch and weld a new one? Fender can easily be replaced but what about part of the body, like a spare tire section that could rust off....if that part is cut off the car can actually collapse because the car has a uni-body (not frame) that many suspension components are attached to. Are you saying VW gives me a new car? I don't think so....

    I am sure there is a fine print somewhere there, what that 12 year/unlimited corrosion warranty actually covers....

    To hear water splashing in the spare tire well with every turn (I though originally that I have some drinking water, oil or wiper fluid moving in the trunk) isn't exactly what I want to hear, when I drive.
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    Repair of the leak should be done by the dealer. That way there is a defect record. Sounds like a breakdown at the factory level. Around here it would not be noticed. We have not had any rain since last February.
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    I agree - but, how do you diagnose or find the source of the leak? How many visits (and time wasted) would it take for them to find the leak? It's not just a matter of hooking up the computer and find a problem code...I am just curious, how would they go around and locate precisely the spot where the water comes in other than keeping the car for number of days. It's just not very practical solution; i.e. the dealer to find a leak.

    I have a neighbor here with new Beetle, he had a sun-roof leak, had the car numerous times at the dealer, who could not figure out the problem. Eventually, his headliner was soaked up with the water. Headliner was replaced under warranty. But then I told him about the drainage passages in the gutter around the sunroof and sure enough, the dealer pushed some compressed air through those openings and the water was again draining properly through inside cavities of the car body as one of the drainage passages was clogged up with debris.

    Here you go, the customer has to find the leak and tell the VW service what to do.

    Didn't want to go through that ordeal myself.
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    Didn't want to go through that ordeal myself.

    I can understand your point. I tried to get the GMC dealer to get the door on my 05 PU adjusted so it was not leaking air. After several tries he gave up. I sold the truck which was easier and took less time than trying to get it fixed. No wonder dealer satisfaction is so low in this country. Wish we had a little rain. :)
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    A skilled body shop will often offer better results (and lower cost) when solving problems with air leaks around doors and glass and also with many types of water leaks into interior or trunk areas.

    A suggestion as for an alternate resource to dealers that can't seem to repair non-mechanical issues.
  • jogousajogousa Member Posts: 402
    I agree - but what about the warranty issue? A skilled body shop can't cover that....
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    I've seen at least one case where GM dealer couldn't fix a problem on 3 tries and sent the car to a local/private shop. The problem was wrong/mismatched speedo-gears on each end of the speedo cable -1989 IROC-Z. There were an absurd number of combinations possible, given all the available speedo-head gears and transmission-end-of-speedo-cable gears.
    After 3 tries, the dealer sent my car out to a local speed shop which used a dynamometer to measure speed - and they cut a custom speedo gear so as to "certify" my speedometer.
    (the speed was reading about 1.75x too much when I took delivery!)

    water leaks can be tough to fix!
    For a 2006 VW beetle TDI water leak, it took the VW dealer 3 tries to fix it. But they did fix it.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You said ==> "I agree - but what about the warranty issue? A skilled body shop can't cover that.... "

    Excuse me!?!? My VW dealership DOES NOT HAVE a body-shop and actually TOLD me to get 3 estamates from local body-shops. Then, the dealership approved me to take my Jetta to skilled bodyshop. It was all paid-for by VW and still covered by warantee.

    It is scary how many people have apparently not read or do not understand how a warantee works.... then they offer advice based on this misunderstanding.

    BOTTOM LINE.. you do not have to have the dealership do the work. (they would like you to beleive that tho...)
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