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Comments
back then, the pedal-offset on some audis was a little different than most cars sold in USA, probably contributing to the errors. but there is no doubt that it was driver error that caused all the "unintended acceleration".
But that, being off the subject, doesn't solve my problem with regards to rear wiper blade....
But VW is not the only one who tries to have their wiper blades "proprietary" ....if they all would make an universal joint/attachment so that one can use any aftermarket blade that would make it simple for most folks!
In any case. I do not see the big deal with rear-wipers anyway.... I guess I spent too many years driving a TRUCK which forces one to learn how to drive /back-up using only the outside mirrors. Once I masterd using mirrors, I now use them even in cars to reverse perfectly into a parking-spot.
If one is not backing up... what would the purpose be to enguage the rear-wiper anyway?? Properly-adjusted side-mirrors will give you all the info you need.
As for replacing the wipers once-a-year... I cannot afford that expense. Instead, I keep a good layer of "RAINX" on all the outside glass and mirrors. With RAINX, there is no need to even *HAVE* windshiled-wipers over 40 MPH. The non-polar coating of RAINX makes the water practicly fly off the glass. (If you have never used RAINX... then you should try it yourself it is almost like magic!)
As a bonus, here in Vermont, a good coating of RAINX keeps ice from sticking to glass too! I would guess if you live where bugs are prevalant, they would not stick too well either.
I stopped using RainX few years back, after the inventor who patented that product (a fellow from San Diego that I knew) sold his company to Blue Coral.
It's a fine product, when you drive at certain speed and true, ice doesn't stick to the window. But you have to apply it every 3 months or so (in certain climates) so regular wipers are far better. RainX is also hard to remove from windshield (similar to silicon). When RainX is applied, regular wipers don't work as they are suppose to work. It works best on airplane windshields and windows though - as originally intended and patented.
I believe Blue Coral (makers of RainX) has now a reformulated product of windshield wiper fluid that includes traces of original RainX.
Here some more from BMW forum elsewhere:
Quote:
My wipers worked fine until I applied rainx to the windshield. Now the drivers wiper blade "chatters" as it wipes. The passenger side is fine. Any advice on what to do to correct this? What can I use to remove the rainx coating?
I like how it works but can't stand the wiper blade chattering on the downward motion.
thanks
I had the same issue with Rain-X. I used Rain-X's own glass cleaner which did a pretty good job of removing the rain repellant. Then I used some Windex and have not had a problem since.
End quote.
Yet when I actually drove a 2003 jetta TDI variant, I let the rear wiper decay until it risked falling apart and wiper-arm scratching the rear glass!
I avoided driving backwards-in-the-correct-travel-direction on the interstate with that vehicle, so the rear wiper didn't matter so much.
Glad someone here has a good sense of humor...
In the meantime, I am anxiously awaiting a 15" $ 22 piece of rubber....
While at that, someone stole one of my small VW plastic hub cap from one of my wheels... I wonder how much will that set me back....but I see those on various websites so I won't have to bother the VW parts dept. again.
Having owned and worked on Porsches, I know that the German automakers do not blush when charging for parts. My favorite is a $4400 Porsche brake rotor. Now, really....
Factory wiper blades for Range Rovers are about 60 bucks a pair.
Well $22 hurts for a wiper blade but at least it's bearable.
I may have missed it, but was the just the insert or the entire blade? I know most blades are pretty pricey these days. I swapped out the blades on our Odyssey with several different types that didn't work all that well. Decided to go back to Honda blade and they were $30 each. The inserts are only about $7 so you really shouldn't ever need the blade unless you do something stupid like I did and toss them out....
For many higher end cars the wipers are all one piece anyway so there is no insert to replace. They use those all one unit parabolic wipers that don't have any arms to put pressure points on the windshield. When you lift the wiper off the glass it curves to form an arc that isn't a perfect parabola but is close.
But - it is not German made - the label is in Spanish and reads:
RAQUETA - 1PZA P/N 1K9-955-427 F. de Caducidad: Assembled in USA
So, with my limited knowledge of Spanish, it means material is from Mexico and it is assembled in USA.
That more less confirms the original MSRP label that was on my car, when purchased. In effect, all metal parts and metal components are made in Germany and all plastic parts are made in Mexico. What it translates to is that those Germans do not want to ruin their environment in EU (manufacturing plastic is not very "green") and have plastic parts made in Mexico or some less developed EU countries like Spain and Italy. Plastic VW wheel hub caps are made in Spain, for example.
Valeo is available everywhere on the web (like Tire Rack, etc).
I'm thrilled with the car's performance. I'm still trying to get the balance right for the defroster. (It seems to fog up pretty quickly on wet, cold mornings and is a little less responsive to the defroster than my '00 Passat is. (Yes, I have an '00 Passat 4 cyl gas turbo that I love, too. It has 170k on it, original clutch, runs like a champ.) My wife was getting nervous that it would choose to breakdown when we were on our annual pilgrimage to NW Ontario (800 mile from home) so we got the new wagon. On the highway it gets mpg of as much as 49 (if I stay at 65 mph) in the low-mid 40's when I drive my usual 7 mph over the posted speed limit and about 8mpg less if I put our roof rack and Yakima box on the top.
Enjoy!
From practicality point of view, I like Subaru the best (ground clearance, trunk/cargo space, winter driving, towing).
From mileage and "fun to drive" point of view I like VW the best (manual transmission, acceleration, cornering, suspension, panoramic glass roof).
From reliability point of view it's a toss between Camry and Civic (parts for Toyota are a bit cheaper than parts for Honda).
From maintenance/mechanical point of view (easy self-repairs) Subaru is the best.
Thanks
I understand that the DSG xmission can achive nearly perfect matchup to all driving conditions. It is the only auto xmission in the world that can compare to a well-shifted manual.
In other words, the DSG is the only "automatic" I would consider with a TDI.
Why consider a TDI if not for the MPG...and why compromize a TDI with an automatic xmission?
I took a test with DSG but I liked the manual better. You get a slightly better mileage with manual. But if you have to commute in a stop and go traffic every day, then DSG would be my choice. It's a matter of personal preference.
I urge all owners of Jetta sedans and Wagons to take out the spare tire from the well and see, if it is dry. If not, you have to locate the spot, where water leaks, and seal it. Not that many folks look there frequently, perhaps only when you need to change the flat. I would be interested if anyone out there on this Forum have had similar problem.
From your description of your leaky Jetta, it sounds just like what Ford did for years that ruined all the F 150 and up boxes. They too had 2 sheets of metal overlaping and the open seam is right above the rear tires. This allows all the road salt, sand, and other debris to get blasted into the open joint, drain down and accumulate in between the 2 sheets of metal that is sealed at the box lip.
The only way out for that toxic mix is right through the fender just above the rear wheels.
As I was doing repairs to mine, I spotted the problem and can not believe that Ford let that go for years. All they had to do was just what you (and I) did...seal that seam! It has eventually ruined every Ford truck box in Canada, and any boxes in the U.S. in wet States and where salt is used.
My point is, try and find the seam from underneath where the water hits it and seal it outside too so no water and salt can get through between the 2 sheets, stop and start munching metal at your inner repair.
Don't get me started on the Chysler cars from the 70's where some genious convinced the Brass that they could save $5.00 on each car (that's how much it cost me to put mine in) by not putting in the plastic inner front fender liners...as I recall they went bankrup then too from all the rusted out fenders they had to replace and then got a Govt . Bailout.
Mind you, in Florida, without driving in salt spray for 5 months of the year like we do, I'm sure you will have a new Subaru TDI wagon before your Jetta rusts out.
Yes, in FL, in Spring and Summer, we have a monsoon rain at least once a day. Granted, no salt - thanks God.
But typically, these cars and metal sheet seams are designed in such a way that "when water comes in - water drains out". Rear stop/brake/backing light cluster assemblies are one of such designs.
If I would not have found the leak, I was going to open of of the pre-drilled holes on the bottom of the spare tire well (that are currently plugged by plastic/rubber plugs) and in that way "water would come in and water would drain out". There is also such thing as one-way water plugs that allow the water drain but the outside water does not leak in (Saab has several of them in the engine bay).
When I visited assembly lines in Sweden (Saab + Volvo) and BMW near Munich, I saw them, how they seal these overlapping metal sheets - It is one of the few tasks that "humans" do, most of other work on assembly lines are robotics.
In VW case, those "unhappy" assembly line workers (heard they was a strike there not long ago) obviously didn't do a good job sealing those overlapping metal sheets with the putty before the car is dipped into a paint bath.
Another problem is that those overlapping metal sheets may not be only underneath the car. VW has many draining passages throughout the body that one has to seal it inside. For example, sunroof/moon-roof drains through inside passages, windshield wiper wells have drainage inside the fenders, etc.etc. There are quite a few drainage passages inside the skeleton of the car. One can see those clearly, when you watch the electric spot welding of the body on car assembly lines.
I think you have just introduced some scary information that will cause new Jetta owners some extra walks to the bathroom in the middle of the night.
ENGINE 07Z-100-011-M $35656
$6600 81% 0ff Touareg V10TDI 04-05
Over the counter engine price is $35,656 OMG! sounds like with 81% off tho, we should stock up.
BTW when I checked Jogo's comment about his favorite wiper blades I ran across this deal..
"With every Valeo ULTIMATE Wiper Blade you purchase from Tire Rack’s in-stock inventory, you will receive one free! Offer valid while supplies last. Valeo ULTIMATE OE Wiper Blades not included in this offer." :shades:
Said another way.... since your clutch is fully enguaged BEFORE you acclellerate, there is virtually zero clutch wear because it does not wear when fully-enguaged.
Of course, a propery-driven manual will not wear out a clutch for over 200K miles even with a gasoline engine. (repeated personal experience!!)
Do not forget that VW has the 12Year/unlimited Milage corrosion warantee. I can tell you from personal experience that VW DOES IN FACT honor it. (I got new front fenders due to the ol' foam-glue seperation issue)
VWs are intended, engineerd, designed and developed for the long haul.... not 90K mile trade-in material.
Well, 12 year unlimited mileage corrosion warranty - that's nice - OK then, tell me what they will do in a few years to honor that warranty - they will cut out the spare tire well with a torch and weld a new one? Fender can easily be replaced but what about part of the body, like a spare tire section that could rust off....if that part is cut off the car can actually collapse because the car has a uni-body (not frame) that many suspension components are attached to. Are you saying VW gives me a new car? I don't think so....
I am sure there is a fine print somewhere there, what that 12 year/unlimited corrosion warranty actually covers....
To hear water splashing in the spare tire well with every turn (I though originally that I have some drinking water, oil or wiper fluid moving in the trunk) isn't exactly what I want to hear, when I drive.
I have a neighbor here with new Beetle, he had a sun-roof leak, had the car numerous times at the dealer, who could not figure out the problem. Eventually, his headliner was soaked up with the water. Headliner was replaced under warranty. But then I told him about the drainage passages in the gutter around the sunroof and sure enough, the dealer pushed some compressed air through those openings and the water was again draining properly through inside cavities of the car body as one of the drainage passages was clogged up with debris.
Here you go, the customer has to find the leak and tell the VW service what to do.
Didn't want to go through that ordeal myself.
I can understand your point. I tried to get the GMC dealer to get the door on my 05 PU adjusted so it was not leaking air. After several tries he gave up. I sold the truck which was easier and took less time than trying to get it fixed. No wonder dealer satisfaction is so low in this country. Wish we had a little rain.
A suggestion as for an alternate resource to dealers that can't seem to repair non-mechanical issues.
After 3 tries, the dealer sent my car out to a local speed shop which used a dynamometer to measure speed - and they cut a custom speedo gear so as to "certify" my speedometer.
(the speed was reading about 1.75x too much when I took delivery!)
water leaks can be tough to fix!
For a 2006 VW beetle TDI water leak, it took the VW dealer 3 tries to fix it. But they did fix it.
Excuse me!?!? My VW dealership DOES NOT HAVE a body-shop and actually TOLD me to get 3 estamates from local body-shops. Then, the dealership approved me to take my Jetta to skilled bodyshop. It was all paid-for by VW and still covered by warantee.
It is scary how many people have apparently not read or do not understand how a warantee works.... then they offer advice based on this misunderstanding.
BOTTOM LINE.. you do not have to have the dealership do the work. (they would like you to beleive that tho...)