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As long as you are using VW-approved oil and quality German-made filter...Here are several reasons to NOT do that;
*) It costs more money to change oil and filter more frequently.
*) It is wasting money to drain perfectly good oil out of the engine.
*) It has been documented that most of the "wear" occours during the 1st 3000 miles after an oil change. (Hence - you are causing MORE wear to your engine by changing more frenquently)
*) It has been documented that the VW-approved oils can actually go up to 20,000 OCI before oil-analsys show it is breaking down.
I have 61k on my 2009 Jetta TDI and had the same problem with the exhaust gas flapper valve. VW covered the repair (to my surprise).
I have been doing my own oil and fuel filter changes, but have had to pay $350 for the DSG service.
VW sent me a letter providing a warranty to 100k on the DSG, problem is I need to take the car past 120K.
If I invest in a timing belt at 120k and all the DSG service, what happens when the DSG implodes at 110K ?
I really like the car, but am thinking of dumping it while it's still worth something for a better high miler ( civic or corolla).
The savings in fuel make up for the expensive maintenance, however if I would have had to pay for the exhaust gas flapper it would have been by by TDI.
I drive all freeway here in Wisconsin as the car performs well in the snow and cold.
It is interesting to see another TDI in the same mileage range as mine.
Have you experienced or heard of any additional problems before 100k miles ?
This is slightly misleading.
The wear after an oil change primarily occurs at the very first start when there could be a brief delay in oil circulation, but we're talking like 1-2 seconds before the oil pump does its thing. However, it's not very significant in comparison to a normal cold start.
I agreed with your post in general, however, and would like to add that VW uses a cartridge type of filter with a large element which enables longer change intervals.
Synthetic oil can easily go far more than 3,000 miles, I agree, but in cars with a small spin-on filter you should change every 5,000 to 7,500 at least because the filter is shot. I am sure that VW's change interval is based on how long they expect the cartridge filter to last and I am quite confident that is far beyond 3,000 miles. When you are using a longer change interval, though, it is more important to check your dipstick and top-off if necessary. Every 3,000-4,000 miles is probably about right for that. (Checking every fuel stop is from an age when cars did consume a lot of oil. )
Actually, my reference to wear in the 1st 3,000 miles was in reference to folks who regularly send in their oil to be "analyzed" for wear-particals. It has been noted that on the TDI engine, the wear-partical readings tend to stay high for about 3,000 miles... then settle down to a very low level after that as long as the oil is not changed and the filter does not plug.
Changing the oil/filter has been shown to make the wear-particals spike up again for about 3,000 miles.
I have to agree about driving in the snow, the car does quite well. Not with the original tires, but put a decent set on and it is very decent. I have lost some heat on really cold days, but keeping it at speed helps a lot.
I have had two other issues with the car, one recent. My left rear door lock has been giving me some problems, the door doesn't always want to lock. This is quite annoying as I usually find myself somewhere in Queens/Brooklyn on a weekly basis and not exactly in the nicest of areas. I would prefer to have my car locked and alarmed. Fortunately right now I have my door locked, and as long as I don't unlock it I'm ok... I just open my passenger doors manually (keep left rear closed at all times) so that I don't accidentally unlock and then run into the issue again. I'm sure it is definitely out of warranty (at 56K currently) so I don't really feel like having the expense of repairing it.
My other issue oddly enough happened at 69 miles, my check engine light came on once I got home from the dealership. Drove for another day or two, and the coil light remained light as well. At 123 miles, the car had to be towed When I called VW 24 hr hotline, the woman asked me how many miles, and when I told her she said 123 thousand? I said no.... just 123. Turns out it was a loose fuel pump relay or something to that effect and the car has run fine since.
Being my first diesel I don't have any experience beyond 56K, so it will be interesting to see what happens from here. I have the same extended warranty on the DSG as well, hope it will last longer than that!
I wonder what the trade in /resale value will be at 100K in 2011? I'm sure it doesn't look good to have a car that is 2-3 years old with that mileage on it, but I heard diesels have a higher value than their gas counterparts. I think I'm going to risk keeping the car until it falls apart, which hopefully won't happen for quite some time.
I've never been a big fan of driving a manual, but after I've driven a few manual diesels overseas this past year, I'd definitely consider one for my next vehicle in the future.
As for Launch Control, I read in the manual that some Jettas have it, but I don't believe it applies to the TDI. I tried it one night, and followed the steps as my friend read it off to me. The engine revved to about 2.5K and then seemed to stall... Does anyone know which models have it?
I rarely use it, but when I do, its fun.
Depreciation doesn't include taxes, and taxes aren't a sunk cost. Depreciation and taxes are both components of the Total Cost of Vehicle Ownership, sure.
A sunk cost is a decision that's already been made and irrelevant for future decisions. Example:
Repairs made to a car are a sunk cost. The book value of a car assumes that it is running properly in good order. It hurts your pride (and wallet) to fix a car and then sell/trade it, but at the time you decide to do that the repairs actually are irrelevant. It would have been relevant to sell the vehicle *before* it required repair, though.
As for electric, I definitely will not be considering it any time soon. I'm driving over to NYC tomorrow for work (almost 330 mi), then back on Friday which has been almost a weekly ritual now. With a very limited range on electric, I'd be running on gas probably 90%+ of the time. I don't think the hotels would appreciate a 100' extension cord running out the window so I can recharge...
Diesel is way too convenient, I can fill up on the way out, and almost make it home before refueling again.
On a more down to earth point, I am amazed by the lack of 'superior engineering' on my 06' TDi's dip stick!
You can't tell if your oil level is full, too full or in the operating range without wiping, testing, peering and then repeating several more times trying to get an acurate measure of typical used black diesel oil on a tiny BLACK plastic rod.
I think another 30 seconds of R&D engineering common sense would have put that dip stick design in the junk bin and came up with something that made some sense.
A typical Mk 5 VW TDI oil level reading is a total mystery, To add more confusion to the proceedure, the 'book' says you need to drive the car and then wait 3 or 4 min before checking the oil. If you check the level after it's been sitting for a few days, it reads way over full..or too soon and it reads down to the "Ad" mark...seems the VW diesel engine allows a lot of oil to dain back down into the pan.
Where did that extra oil in the pan come from? Drained from the upper end, where all the Mk 5 damaged cams, lifters and bearing issues are created.
Sounds like I was lucky to sell it, with the problems that model has. I loved driving the little wagon. I hated getting in and out. That will be the last sedan I ever buy. I have all but given up on ever owning another diesel. Just too many obstacles and premiums to pay. Now they are being smogged in CA. If I drove a lot of miles it may be worth the hassles.
Letting turbochargers cool was a necessity in the past because of 3 main reasons:
1. They were not watercooled, oil-cooled only.
Today's OE turbochargers are all oil and watercooled. This helps keep the center section temperature down considerably.
2. They had sleeve bearings.
Today's turbos have sealed ball bearings which are much more durable. They spin a lot better too, which helps efficiency.
3. Significant improvements in oil technology, especially synthetics.
I strongly advocate the use of full synthetic oil in all cars, but it is especially helpful in turbocharged vehicles as it will help prolong the life of the turbocharger.
In summary, a modern turbo should last the life of the engine. I believe the TDI uses a Garrett variable vane turbo, which is very high tech. It will go well over 100k miles with no trouble on a stock engine.
The only cooling I would advocate is after a very hard drive, such as 30+ minutes during steep mountain driving. And even then, you are fine after 2 minutes of driving out of boost at lower speeds or idling. This is completely unnecessary for normal travel or commuting.
If, prior to reaching your destination you have a period of gentle running then the turbo will already have cooled sufficiently so this idling period is far less important.
Idling before switch-off is a good habit to get into to help ensure your turbo enjoys a long life. The effects of abuse won't show up for quite some time but they will come and bite you - or the next owner - one day.
AFAIK this idling procedure is strongly recommended, here in Europe, by all the manufacturers using turbos, whether gasser or diesel. VW, Audi, Skoda and SEAT certainly recommend it and everyone I know with a turbo engine uses it............and the vast majority of them drive diesels; Audi, VW, Vauxhall (GM), Ford, SAAB, BMW et al.
Just my two penn'orth.
ETA : I was writing my post whilst Colin was posting 4252. His is a better tech post but I think we're both singing from the same hymn sheet. Amen to the use of synthetics. The VW TDi's are fussy about lube but for reasons other than the turbo.
Allowing turbocharger to cool down before turning off engine should be standard procedure.
Note: This 'cooldown' can be as simple as driving gently for a mile or so. This is how most people drive anyway before arriving at their destination. The real concern would be pulling into a 'rest area' immedeatly after traveling 65+ MPH... this is when a specific cooldown should be performed.
I have a turbocharged Subaru... if I keep it under 'boost' for more than 12 seconds, I would be traveling over 90MPH. (I love the look on my wifes face when I pin her to the seat with raw accelleration)
The heat in the turbocharger is directly related to the amount of exhaust-gas flowing thru it. While traviling on hiway at 65+ MPH, there is a lot of hot exhaust rushing thru the turbocharger. The oil-flow over the bearingis the only thing keeping the bearings alive. If you pull into a restarea and immedeatly shut off the engine. A phenomanon known as "heat soak" occours. You have stopped the flow of cooling-oil over the bearings while the turbocharger housing is still VERY hot. This latent heat can literally cook the stagnant oil which is sitting in the bearing-housing. This is called 'oil coking'
On the other hand, if you get off that very same highway and drive a few miles to your destination... this allows enough oil to flow thru the turbocharger housing to carry the heat away. There is much less latent heat to 'soak' into the bearings.
All VWs (turbocharged or not) have an oil/water heat-exchanger. This allows the hot oil to 'dump' its latent heat into the antifreeze... which then carries the heat to the radiator so it can be eliminated.
VW uses OIL COOLED VNT (Variable Nozzle Turbocharger).... this type of turbocharger does not have a "wastegate" to route the hot exhaust gasses around the turbine. Instead, the VNT flows ALL the exhaust thru the turbine at all times. This is more efficent... but creates more heat too.
Hence - I ALWAYS idle my TDI for 2 minutes if I pull off highway into a restarea
Does this answer your question?
Also, this is something that I wouldn't want to worry about everytime I pull off the interstate to a rest area or to get a bite to eat. It seems like a small thing but kind of a pain. I like to pull in and jump out especially if I have to use the john. I know it's a small price to pay for great mpg but those small prices start to add up...higher fuel cost per gallon, longer warm up for interior heat, loss of heat in stop/go traffic, oily hands at fueling, synthetic oil mandatory, hunting for stations that carry diesel(many don't in metro areas), higher intitial cost for vehicle. These things do add up to an overall experience which may or may not be fully offset by the money saved on fuel depending on the person. Just my thoughts.
in these sorts of drives, ABSOLUTELY i would let the engine idle for maybe 30 seconds or a minute at most to help turbo cool down at a rest area after hundreds of miles of highspeed driving.
I don't bother with a cool-down delay for the turbo on east coast highways since the speeds are closer to 75 than 100.
ps - Those rest areas (outhouses) in the I-80 nevada desert are no prize.
at each increasing steady-speed point, once a certain road-hp level is required of the engine, the turbo will be boosting from that speed all the way up to top steady-state speed.
if that's not the case, please elaborate, and i'll make a note of it and will wake up Isaac Newton to let him know! :shades:
Very little power is required to maintain steady speeds on level roads which is why this type of cruising delivers high mileage even at high speeds. I can tell you after 100,00+ miles of watching the boost gauges on Saab Turbos that they only deliver boost above 3000RPM or so, way more than you'd cruise at.
I can't recall whether the TDI Sportwagen I drove had a boost gauge but there was so much low RPM torque that I'd be surprised if the turbo was on boost except when you accelearate.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
I've driven turbo cars for 30 years and its in my driving routine to idle for a few seconds after starting before loading the engine, and for about 30 sec. when I shut down. I did with ancient MB turbodiesels and I did it with my bi-turbo gasser Audi too, though it had water-cooled turbos and syn oil, and even a after-run waterpump to cool hot turbos after the engine was turned off. Its just a prudent habit with worth-their-weight-in-gold turbos. Turbos have better technology now, but are also a lot more complex than old school simple turbos (on diesels) that would go forever without much worry if you watched out for coking; I put 450K miles on one in a Mercedes. I think a few seconds at idle before shutdown is a good investment.
100 mph is a moot speed here on the east coast, but was fun travelling fast like that in the desert. again, in the desert, at 100 mph, i sure did let the turbo cool down after cruising for many hours. and i have no doubt the turbo was working all those hours except maybe on some downhills. air resistance is incredible at high speeds; required "road horsepower" from the engine increases exponentially as speed goes up.
Once your car is up to speed, even 100 mph at 3500 rpm, your throttle position will be the determinant of how often the turbo is on... If you just need slight throttle pressure to maintain that speed, then the turbo will likely be taking a break..
Of course, at that speed, even slight uphills will cause you to mash the throttle to maintain speed... but, on perfectly level ground? I think little turbo action...
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Once your car is up to speed, even 100 mph at 3500 rpm, your throttle position will be the determinant of how often the turbo is on... If you just need slight throttle pressure to maintain that speed, then the turbo will likely be taking a break..
Of course, at that speed, even slight uphills will cause you to mash the throttle to maintain speed... but, on perfectly level ground? I think little turbo action..."
Just because your car has a turbo, you think you use it most of the time?
100 mph is near the top speed of a 2006 TDI, and I continue to understand that the turbo is working/boosting plenty at that speed.
Your final question is not so respectful, but the answer to it is "no".
best regards , and let's find a new subject to discuss!
I am ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that my TDI VNT turbocharger is not watercooled. It is fairly easy to "coake" the oil in an oilcooled turbocharger. This is one reason that VW specifies synthetic oil. (resistance to 'coaking')
Since you asked ...It is a Garrett model number "VNT15"
Note: Some newer TDIs use "VNT17"
Thanks for the lesson link.
I would imagine it would take at least $300 of labor to R-n-R (Remove and Replace)
It is FARRR easier to use the proper oil and think about the cool-down before shutting off engine.
Also, do not forget that more TDI turbochargers are replaced because they are UNDER used... they plug up with soot. Always - ALWAYS use some full-throttle accelleration at least one time between filliups.
After my wife drives the TDI for a week or so... I can get a puff of black smoke when I clean out the turbocharger with some aggressive accelleration. That is the soot being burned out of the turbocharger.
the O-rings on the 06 TPMS valve stems dry out. probably can happen to some other vehicles/brands too, but most definitely can occur to 06 VWs with TPMS. refurbish kit/work is >$200. Or normal/non-TPMS valve-stems could be installed for $80, and the light would flash forever unless perhaps it could be VAG-COMed off permanently. I went with the new O-rngs for the TPMS valvestems, but naturally I am having valve-stem buyer's remorse regarding them.
It's tiny, which I guess shouldn't surprise me given the horsepower output of the TDI. But it is oil and watercooled.
PS, maybe you should take it down a notch. I believe I replied to one message of yours a month or two ago and disagreed with one thing, and since then it appears you have made it your mission to reply hatefully to any message I post with some really sweet ALL CAPS emphasis. I have nothing against you, or anyone else in this forum. Chill out.
And a TDI doing 130.........I have no doubt it will go that fast, maybe faster.
Thanks.
Those nozzles are a little bigger with a "ring" around the end and don't fit into the TDI car filler neck...
(found this out the hard way once)