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VW Jetta TDI

1848587899093

Comments

  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    there are great TDI/VW dealer service depts, and others that are not so great. The one nearest to me happens to be fantastic....

    Our local Drew VW is also very good. CA has a disadvantage on diesel technicians as we were late to the game. CARB had them blocked for several years, until the latest version. I took my 2005 Passat TDI to Drew for its service until I sold it. Cost less for that high priced oil change than my Sequoia with Dino oil change.

    The dealer in Oregon I bought the Passat from told me keeping good techs was expensive. He sold Buick and VW. And his best tech left and went to work for the Cadillac dealership. He could not match the $150k per year salary. That was in 2005. Not sure if the economy has caught up to that wage or not.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    edited December 2010
    The dealer mislead you.

    That Florida dealer told me that Chrysler would do diddly-squat before the District Manager even showed up. The dealer where I purchased the CRD has told me that the Florida dealer was rather SHADY.

    Going out later to look at a replacement but in the meantime, I am continuing my battle with Chrysler.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I think you hit the nail on the head with your post. The dealer where I purchased my CRD says the same thing. Had the Jeep failed here in MD, they would have started putting in a new engine for me at this point in time.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Still shopping for a replacement for my Jeep. Looked a t left over 2010 Jetta Sedan TDI. Nicer ride than the 2011 Sportwagen TDI but there was more engine noise intrusion at idle.

    I asked several questions of the tech concerning how the DPF regenerates. Turns out that they could not (VW diesel techs) could not answer this. But what I did learn is this, there is no extra injector/valve to dump fuel into the exhaust stream to cook the soot so the only other way to do this is to spray some fuel into the combustion chamber at the end of the exhaust portion of the cycle when the exhaust valves are open. Now this is not without its consequences. As I have read, not all of this fuel gets exhausted/pushed out of combustion chamber and some does remain and gets on the cylinder walls, thinning out the oil film on them. Also, some does get past the rings into the crankcase causing oil dilution and a reduction in lubricating power.

    The Einsteins (sorry Albert) at VW may or may not have taken this into consideration but some of the major U.S. diesel engine manufacturers including Cummins and Caterpillar have issued bulletins for their newer engines calling for more frequent oil changes because of fuel dilution of the crankcase oil.

    With this in mind, it would behoove the owners of the newer TDI (2009+) to consider more frequent oil changes say every 5000 miles versus the 10000 miles VW calls for.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    edited January 2011
    While that very well might be a very logical conclusion, there are a host of variables that make it more complicated. Suffice to say I would have no issues doing 20,000 to 25,000 miles OCI's.

    Part of the VW 507 specifications is to be able to go to 31,069 miles (aka 50,000 km).
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited January 2011
    Any concerns could easily be addressed by doing an oil analysis to either prove or disprove the possibility of fuel dilution. If your oil checks out just fine at 5K, do the next analysis at 7.5K and if that's good, then go to 10K without worries from that point on in the car's lifetime.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    edited January 2011
    Yes that is really one of the best ways. In fact (on another more VW specific cite) there were HUGE concerns, beginning with the 09 TDI. One of the conclusions after quite a few (break in) UOA's @ 10,000 miles OCI's (VWA makes a HUGE deal of factory fill going a FULL 10,000 miles (break in) interval, were UOA's were ALMOST cookie cutter in wear metal results ZERO fuel dilution (was Winter's concern) . The longer term conclusion was (given use of the correct VW507.00) 1. dont bother with any UOA's till 30,000 miles to 60,000 miles 2. and do those as BASELINES.

    Sidebar was 30,000 miles was recommended if one had engine warranty demand concerns as the BIG warranty is more like 3 years and or 36,000 miles.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I have to take issue with what is said here in that VW has had a problem setting standards for the motor oil. I have always found that VW oil standards are a constantly moving target that even VW cannot seem hit.

    Oil analysis is all fine and good but using 60K miles driven as a baseline reading is senseless. Beyond 60K miles is the issue and as injectors wear, they do not work as efficiently as when they were younger so they may not close as quickly or they could leak and since there is an extra spray of fuel during the exhaust cycle during DPF regeneration that means, depending on driving habits, faster injector wear/break down. Oil change intervals are an issue too. I feel that 5K is about as long as one should good on a crankcase full of oil be it gas or diesel and even if the oil is a synthetic.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    edited January 2011
    I would not disagree with your take about VW setting standards and then having their own representatives (i.e.,VWA dealers) not fulfilling them.

    Oil analysis is really the sum total, if you will of all those things you mentioned in effect MANIFESTING itself in the oil ! Ergo that is the real reason for the analysis. There is really NO question that all those things you mentioned and more are happening. Measurement and/or the analysis is really done to confirm (in effect) the RATE of engine degradation (slo mo of course) and whether or not your (developed for FLEET) maintenance schedules make (normally) economic sense. The other truth is even as lower OCI's (under 15,000 miles) yield much more aggressive wear metals and really induce a higher detergency state, statistically anything from 1,000 to 30,000 miles OCI's are just fine !!

    So if they are, it really begs the question why change AT 1,000 to say your 5,000 when 30,000 miles will do?? The operative reality is something like why change @ 30,000 miles when 1,000 to say your 5,000 miles OCI will do !!!
  • rrollntdirrollntdi Member Posts: 52
    This guy I work with had his '04 Jetta TDI chipped and said he gained 35 HP and boosted his mpg to 62 :surprise: . His turbo is always at 5 PSI and experiences no turbo lag when he needs it. If you've had your '09, or newer, TDI chipped, please let me know who provided the chip, how much it cost and what results you acheived.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You'd want to do a whole lotta research before you believed claims like that. It's really a question of investigating the engineering of the "chip" or "reflash" to see what it's actually doing to the engine. Also there are "power boxes" which are easier to deal with. I'm personally not fond of chips that are "interfere" and trick the ECU---these strike me as rudimentary and perhaps harmful.

    As for horsepower claims, unless they show you a dyno slip, they got nothin'.
  • rrollntdirrollntdi Member Posts: 52
    Mr_Shiftright, thank you for your reply. I'm skeptical of the claims that my coworker made and will question him further. I'm also not sure the reflash would be safe for the newer engines. They all claim to be, but who really knows when it comes to a real engine problem. Maybe others have ventured into this technology and can report.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I must disagree with part of what you say in your reply. OCI's are developed under ideal driving conditions with ideal fuel. Diesel fuel in the United States borders on swill and is high in aromatic compounds that produce more particulate matter. Also, the cetane rating is in the low to mid-40's. EU diesel is a higher quality fuel with far less aromatic compounds and a cetane rating of 51 or 52.

    The OCI's proposed by VW and other EU diesel makers are based on EU diesel fuel and not our domestic swill.

    I also take issue with your comments concerning detergency and I have a good example to give you. My wife drives a 1998 Chrysler with the 2.7L V-6. This engine along with several VW engines are known sludge producers. The timing chain tension is controlled by oil pressure and any iota of dirt in this tensioning system produces catastrophic results. I have been using a good high detergent synthetic oil in the engine for most of its life (Amsoil 10W-30) with an OCI of 3500 miles. I have done two oil analysis and no metal residue found in the spent oil. The oil pan gasket was replaced recently and the was absolutely no sludge, varnish, etc. found. Passages were examined with a fiberoptic device and found to be factory clean after 65K miles. The car sees city driving 90% of the time.

    The crankcase in any diesel is a very dirty environment compared to gassers. The VW diesel holds barely five quarts of oil which is simply not enough for such a long OCI. Mercedes Benz 3.0L V-6 diesel holds ten + quarts. It is one-third larger than the VW diesel and holds 100% more oil. That makes more sense to me.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    edited January 2011
    Based on the examples, I am not really sure on how to answer to weave a logical thread and nexus. I am also not sure on what you disagree with, even as I can understand some of the frustration of dealing with known (gasser) sludge producers. I am also unsure how to "handicap" the scenarios, as it were. Gasser with chronic oil cooking issues and I would assume consumption issues vs D2 with ZERO cooking issues and little consumption.

    As to the crankcase in a diesel being a very dirty environment compared to gassers, again I am not sure what to say. The sump of the TDI which I have done up to 30,700 miles has a capacity of 4.5 qts/4.2 L. As you might know, it uses a media "cartridge type" filter. It (old filter and engine innards) remains "whistle clean". Evidently, you see fit to run 3,500 miles (synthetic) OCI's to accomplish the same goals on your gasser !! ?? So consequently..., I run D2 product oils 8.77 TIMES greater miles than you to achieve the "same" end. Defacto, I think YOU are saying you think yours (gasser) to be FAR dirtier than ...mine, D2 !! ?? I tend to run gassers 15,000 miles (994,000 miles) and of late 20,000 miles seems pretty good. So as you can see my actions treat GASSERS as the "dirtier" (than D2) if you will. Specifically that is a range of 25% to 54% (cleaner, longer, you know what I mean?) .

    While yes logically having a 10+ qt capacity might be nifty and have great utility and for many reasons It does perhaps present a host of interesting spin off consequences. So for example, the utility of higher sump capacity for the VW TDI would mean I could easily double the OCI. In my case, from 30,700 miles to 61,000/62,000 miles. While I know the filter is designed for 50,000 kms (converts to 31,069 miles) AND with I am sure a safety factor (unknown to me) I would probably swag, I would be compelled to change the filter @ 31,069 miles. Somehow a bypass (2 micron) filter system with 1 qt extra capacity (4.5 to 5.5 qts) might seem a neck and neck option.
  • oli1oli1 Member Posts: 33
    edited January 2011
    I noticed on my last service report, 5K, that they added Diesel Fuel Additive Stanadyne. I am getting my stuff ready to do a 15K oil and fuel filter change and I am wondering if I should be getting this additive for each fuel filter change? I am in Calif.
    I also noticed on my 5k invoice that besides the 5 quarts (I'm assuming they used around 5 qts) of oil they have 1 A3 - 32 synthetic oil. When I called the service depart. they said it was probably an error
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    edited January 2011
    I add about 6oz of Powerservice to my tank every time I fill up. Powerservice is available at any Wallmart.

    Grey bottle in summer, white bottle in winter.

    There are a lot of benefets to using a diesel-fuel additive. Unlike Gasoline additives, the ones for diesel actually do something. Some of the key benefets are
    1) improved MPG (due to additional Cetane)
    2) Reduced HighPressureFuelPump wear (due to lubricity)
    3) cleans fuel-injection system.
    4) Eliminate gelling in cold weather (may not be an issue for you in CA.)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I used to use a Redline additive when I had a diesel Benz, and it never even burped in 3 years of hard use.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    edited January 2011
    I would agree, but I have been conflicted about additive use (for app 173,000 miles) . The conflict is the so called real world results. I can truly tell no difference in mpg , even as I know intellectually what you are saying and more is true.

    So for one car, I use PS (gray bottle, WalMart 80 0z @ 17 per, 400 to 1 dilution) it advertises low saps, which I need in one.

    I also use Primrose 405C, 32 oz for $15, 3000 to one dilution on another TDI, not requiring low saps.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,188
    Geez... now, I know why I'm not getting a diesel...

    Just explaining this to my wife, wouldn't be worth it... ;)

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  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think bio-cides, anti-gels, and cetane boosters all have their time and place.
  • cosmocosmo Member Posts: 203
    I concur with bpeebles' response. However, I buy Stanadyne at a local diesel service center to avoid the culture shock inflicted whenever entering a Walmart. I add 3 ounces to each full fill-up primarily for the enhanced lubrication and cleaning of the fuel system. Both of my TDI's are PD's, and considering the quality of American diesel fuel, I figure the cost of 3 ounces of insurance a month per vehicle is worth it.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    LOL. For certain there can be an over load of TMI.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    edited January 2011
    Trust me, before you want to believe that I am making this up.

    VW504 (gasser standards)/507 (D2 standards) have actually been OUT for a long time, ( since 2004) if Total's literature is to be belived. So far more time and mileage and a myraid of scenarios are literally "water under the European bridge". VW is really ubiquitious on European markets. It is not like in the US where they hold what, 2.5% of the markets share?

    Both Total and Fuchs list their VW specification oils as meeting the standards up to 50,000 kms (converts to 31,069 mles). http://www.lubadmin.com/upload/produit/FichePDF/lang_1/5833.pdf

    http://www.fuchsoil.co.za/Products/TDS/Fuchs%20-%20Titan%20GT1%20Longlife%20III%- - - 20SAE%205W-30%20(VW%20504.00%20&%20507.00;%20ACEA%20A3;B4;C3)%20-%2031Mar08.pdf

    What might be noteworthy about the two is both go back and forth being the oem factory fill. In addition both are excellent high quality oils. They are as most can imagine not well known in the US market, say like Mobil One.
  • redvwredvw Member Posts: 40
    I Have a 2009 TDI with 26,000 miles. The rear brake pads are down to 3 mm, and
    the front are at 4 mm. I am looking to replace them with Hawk HPS, or possibly
    Hawk Performance Ceramic. I am also considering Centric Premium rotors. Any
    suggestions in the replacement of these parts would be appreciated. I am not
    considering the OEM pad because they seem to wear very quickly. I am not
    interested in better performance then stock pads, but longer life and at least
    equal performance as the OEM pads provided.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    edited January 2011
    It is pretty apparent you and the conditions driven are hard on the brake pads and rotors. The numbers (on front and rear pads) indicate that braking is done "correctly", albeit aggressively in that you brake in such a way as to put the majority of the weight and braking action to the fronts. The fronts (rotors and pads) as you know are bigger and what you might doubt is designed to handle most of the braking and weight transfer. You are probably also aware that the VW's have had rear bias (certainly on the 09) and for many MY's before that.

    So the interesting news is that the oem brakes and rotors are actually designed for longer life. You will/ would of course point back to me and probably reemphasize; did you NOT hear 26,000 miles????

    So here is the logic. First off, Hawk pads are excellent products in the areas for which they compete. They are however very aggressive. Part of the reason for the ceramic offering is to give a so called lower dust offering. So if you brake in the style and the ways that you have with the oem pads and rotors(with no adjustments) my swag is you will get even FASTER wear. ( the minor caveat here is you start off with the same measure of pad material)This will be to the pads AND the rotors (inferior, as VW uses pretty high quality oem rotors, and pads for that matter. OEM, ATE or TRW would be better rotor choices) The ceramic would probably yield slightly longer wear as it is indeed HARDER (than the HPS for example)
  • colin_lcolin_l Member Posts: 591
    I've used Hawk HPS pads on my current and previous vehicle and have been very pleased with the relatively low dust, no noise and great cold braking strength and my very infrequent fast-road usage also is great.

    I agree with ruking that 26,000 miles to wear out the stock pads is pretty, um, aggressive. I typically get at least 50,000 miles out of a set of pads. :shades:
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    edited January 2011
    To add 2 anecdotal scenarios. 03 TDI/09 TDI oem rotors and pads. In addition to like new condition @ the courtesy inspection combined with the 10,000 miles interval done @ ...12,300 miles on the 09 TDI, the technician literally had no measurement difference from "so called new" on either the rotors nor the pads. Counter intuitively, I still run the engine "spiritedly" and will till 30-60k miles where I anticipate both max compression and for the mpg to improve. I did however bed in the brake pads and rotors from 08 miles (new). @ 20,000 miles, I do not have enough data to even swag how long the oem pads and rotors should last. However on an 03 TDI @ 153,000 miles, it is less than half the wear. So a good swag would be 280,000 miles on the oem rotors and pads.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    edited January 2011
    German-steel, Zimmerman rotors are very good. Akebono pads are also advisable.

    I highly recommend you consider IDParts. They carry brake "kits" which are reasonably priced and you can customize the components as you desire. I have been ordering oil, brakes, glowplugs and virtually all other parts for VWs from IDParts for years.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    edited January 2011
    Absolutely no argument there. Another is Bora Parts

    The individual choices and combinations are almost short of TMI !
  • jimlockeyjimlockey Member Posts: 265
    I have a jetta Sportwagon TDI with 30,000 miles and have 85 percent of my brakes remaining. I had a 05 Passat TDI with 85,000 that I traded in on my Jetta that still had the original brakes.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    edited January 2011
    My 06 jetta TDI has 115K, brakes are 100% factory, never required any service/parts.
    At each recent service I ask the dealer and they say the pads are not worn out yet. But close!

    Ceramic brakes bring a whole set of tradeoffs which I understand are inappropriate for a street car. I advise against them even when they are an $10000 option from the factory.
  • driverberndriverbern Member Posts: 23
    My 2006 (purchased new in July of '07) has 159,000 mi on it and I'm still on the original brakes. It's a manual trans and I do mostly highway driving but it seems unusual to only get 26,000 miles on yours.
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    I think there was someone driving that car that rides the brakes. I don't know of any modern car that you need to replace brake pads at 26k miles. Or he could be dealing with a crooked dealer.
  • vinchenz61vinchenz61 Member Posts: 12
    Just past 32k miles breaks are at 50% with NYC driving
  • redvwredvw Member Posts: 40
    How do the HPS pads compare with factory pads in regards to the life of the pad, stopping power, and the feel of the brakes?
  • redvwredvw Member Posts: 40
    I looked at IDparts.com. They sell an A5 Front brake kit with Hudson rotors and low-dust ceramic pads by Hudson. One can upgrade the rotors to Zimmerman, and the pads with TRW. The rear kit also has Hudson rotors with Mintex red box pads. The upgrade for this kit is Zimmerman rotors and low-dust ceramic pads by Hudson.

    Do you have any thoughts on which combination would be best? Are these part better suited for a TDI then Hawk brake pads with Centirc Rotors?
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Yes. You might wish to either leave a msg or ask to speak with Peter. He can give you a run down of the (his) product line. Be sure to mention the oem pads lasting app 26,000 miles.

    Let us know what you finally decide or your top 5 picks each in rotors and brake pads.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I was helping some friends shop for a Jetta TDI wagon---we got a 2011 for $27000 out the door (all taxes, license, etc). I thought this was a pretty good deal, especially since they're paying 9.25% sales tax where I live.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    edited January 2011
    I have read in passing that of the 2010 JSW sold, most were TDI's (more than 75% of the JSW inventory). I am guessing of those 75% were DSG's (aka 6 speed "automatics") aka dual clutch pack shifted drive by wire by computer.

    I do not believe the 2010 total VW sales figures are out yet.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    They're getting a standard shift. It's what they are used to, and all things considered, probably better for them, since they tend to keep cars a long time. I don't think there's really enough data out yet on long term durability of the DSGs. As we know, there have been recalls and extended warranties on older ones.
  • redvwredvw Member Posts: 40
    I purchased Hudson rotors, and Hudson Power Stop pads from IdParts.com.
    I will post my review after I have a chance to observe how they work. I am not planning to have them installed for about one week.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    edited January 2011
    If you have done pads and rotors changes before, it is fairly straight forward. Just make sure you have access (rent, borrow, etc.) or buy the (rear calipers) so called "wind back" tool. If you are using a vendor, they should already know and do this anyway.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    edited January 2011
    True enough. So far, so good @ 21,000 miles on the DSG. It is of course WAY too early to tell. My 09 (VIN specific) got the coveted 10 years and/or 100,000 miles DSG (only) warranty. Curiously (again VIN specific) it was on no recall lists of which there have been two. 1. reflash 2. temperature sensor. I am pretty much looking forward to the life time of the vehicle for DSG durability and reliability. Miles will tell.

    On the 03 TDI, on this renewal registration cycle I was required to do a smog test. So on a 153,000 miles TDI it took the (smog only test station owner/technician) all of 15 seconds to declare this good to go.

    This was a tad odd as before it was hooked up he kept saying that all diesels "smoked". Needless to say this does not inspire a positive attitude. No worries, but it does give one pause. I got a tad annoyed in that what should have been a (way after computer hook up) 15 second (max) smoke test, for some reason turned into what felt like 5 mins !! He kept getting the thing to red line, etc. I was annoyed because even on gasser SUV's they rev it to like 2400 rpm. So,... I asked him if there were any concerns/issues and he sheepishly said no and promptly moved on to the next portions of the test.
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    According to my nephew that rebuilds over the road diesel engines and racing diesel engines, the CA smog check for diesels is purely subjective. Best advice, know the smog check guy. They have NO definitive smog check for diesel engines. It is just another CA money grab.

    I ran across this link with a contact at the state if anyone is interested. It pretty much verifies what my nephew told me. They look sniff and hold their hand for the money.

    smog check scam
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    edited January 2011
    Without a doubt. They do hook it up (by way of the R 232 cable?), but for the smoke test, he said he was looking for a prescribed time allowed in recovery.

    I actually feel the EXACT same way about the gasser smog only tests. While off topic, a 17 year old gasser SUV passed with 185,000 miles with essentially ZERO harmful emissions (not even measurable!!!!!!) . I was way passed a 30,000 miles tune up. I also run 20,000 miles OCI's.
  • ggeeooggeeoo Member Posts: 94
    Hi Friends:

    My wife so far has clipped the Mini Mirror,The Saab Mirror and now the Jetta Mirror on the Garage
    Door Jam. The repair was the easiest so far. I visited U tube and got an overview first.

    After careful inspection the CAP that is the ABS plastic cover was not cracked that is the most expensive b/c you need to PAINT it to match your car color the dealer said. I suspect that may not be true b/c it does not look painted. This part the CAP cost 240.75 + 100.00 to paint=340.75. The Mirror was 39.95 and the turn signal indicator 64.75 both these needed to
    be replaced. The indicator is screwed on in four places you need a "T10x80" screw driver I got
    one at a electronics store for another project that was lucky. The Indicator wire plug needs to
    be unplugged the re- plugged when reassembly it is white and easy. The indicator has a "foot" clip that you press with your thumb to remove assembly it is located about 6 mm from the plug.

    The Mirror snaps in place with notches engaging on a bass drum like mounting. The wires that
    attach to the mirror are female spade type use a needle nose to remove the wire and replace.
    The CAP simply snaps into place and your done the whole job took 30 minutes.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    It is almost jaw dropping what some of these parts retail for.
  • shriftyshrifty Member Posts: 255
    So far I have 70K on my 09 DSG, taking it in Saturday for the service. Seems to be ok at this point... but as you have said, it is too early to say for sure how well it will hold up with little data.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    edited February 2011
    Despite a host of vilification/s the (dual mass) stock clutch on the 03 TDI 5 speed sets a VERY high, but normal bar. If anyone knows how to drive a manual transmission, 400,000 to 500,000 miles is a REASONABLE life expectation. Indeed that is my own expectation @ 153,000 miles (347,000 more miles) The other side of that: you can definitely (if you set your mind to it) toast a clutch in a matter of hours. The DSG is a dual clutch pack "AUTOMATIC" WET lubrication. As such the emphasis is on "convenience". So yes, I am also curious what the range of miles DSG 's will last.
  • belaircarguybelaircarguy Member Posts: 107
    I have a 2007 Jetta, and believe it or not, my passenger side door mirror was stolen! In any event, if you know how to replace it, you can purchase the entire mirror (cover, lens, etc) at ADVANCED AUTO PARTS. It was not on their website, but I went to the store and they found it in a catalog. It was about 1/2 price of what the dealer wanted.

    Good luck.

    Bel Air Car Guy
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