Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Oh and I did not pay $25K for my 2012 Jetta TDI DSG, TDI Monster Mats, CarGo sytem, Lip Spoiler, and Exhaust Tips.
Instant econ showed 50 mpg, pretty much flat in my part of IL, and cruise was on.
Also we were talking about average MPG over a year's time, mixed city/hwy.
UPSHOT: TDI getting 26% better fuel mileage. Rug costing $358 more per year. Over 10 years one should expect to use 970 gals MORE fuel
So with fuel @ $3.79 D2, Rug @ $3.77 2012 Passat TDI 40.2 mpg: gasser @ 31.9 mpg (US High Average driver @ 15,000 miles = 373 gals *3.79= $1,414, 470 gals * 3.77= $1,772 , 97 gals more per year RUG. (www.fueleconomy.gov)
So that things are more AVERAGED than not, I also use 100,000 miles. 100,000 miles is really what ANY car is capable of doing.
To think it is one of the most profitable auto companies and it only has 2.5 to 2.8% of the US markets. It will certainly be interesting to see what will happen to both diesels and the auto markets.
break in
OBTW, where do find the best prices for filters, oil, fuel, and cabin?
http://tires.about.com/od/Tire_Reviews/a/Low-Rolling-Resistance-Showdown-Ecopia-- Vs-Entyre.htm
one factor in low-rolling-resistance tires is that the possibility that they also provide lower-friction-coefficients while braking - increasing braking distance in emergency stop. there's no fooling mother nature.
Another way to boost mpg more than 11mpg, try drafting a cooperative bigrig, feet off the bumper- you'll really feel the mpg savings and how it pulls your car (or motorcycle). Just as a test, I'm saying. :shades:
It happens when the car is going down a slope and the engine is not using fuel but then when the grade goes back up and motor now needs fuel, it does a violent shake rattle and roll for a second or 2 then it's OK until the next same combination of CC, and road conditions.
The only thing I have found that prevents all this drama is changing the fuel brand. I drive about 500 miles a day for 3 days in a row, so each tank is run down to less than 1/4 and then I start looking for a fill up again and hoping for a no-shudder run.
I have tried truck stop fill ups and all the major brands...(Shell was the last one that the TDI had big problems with) Then I will have great luck with some no-name brand from some divey place in the middle of nowhere.
(I have always had great performance from Chevron GAS in my Honda Odyssey, but the Chevron diesel is another story...poor power, bad mpgs and lots of shudders.)
So far I have not met anyone behind the counters selling diesel who has ever even heard of Cetane ratings..(I do ask) much less what their pumps might have.
Seems some forum posters are having these issues with the new models of VW TDI's but so far nobody with a 06 except me, has mentioned it. One uninterested VW service writer said "it probably needs to come into the shop and have the cam shaft and valve followers changed" A story he probably uses to make his service dept another $2000.00 that day.
Not saying the car at 110,000 miles doesn't need the top end looked at, but it will run fine on certain diesel and run like crap after the next fill up from a different location. Covering 2000 miles in 3 days puts me at 4 different stations in 3 different States.
http://opti-lube.com/index.php/xpd-diesel-fuel-improver-product.html
You also may want to check your fuel filter.
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a5/fuel-filter-VW-Jetta-TDI-2005-2006.htm
While on a brief trip the other day, I noticed the "battery" warning light had popped on. Thought it might be the serp' belt or alternator so stopped and had a look under the hood.
Somehow the pulley had completely come off the alternator but the belt was still running on the bare shaft! I guess the belt wasn't getting enough grip to spin the alt' enough and the warning light came on.
Local VW dealership had to order a new pulley and it will be here in a week.
The Jetta TDI alt' pulley not a solid pulley, but a clutch design, a rather complicated item..designed to grab and pull under load one way, but will free wheel the other way....
(Also a very pricy item that requires a special set of tools to take off and install...unless it flies off all on it's own like mine did!)
This guy goes through it much better and says..."it's a wear item that should be changed with each serp' belt R&R"...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hrFcPqZuO3A
If you think the pulley is expensive.... for a long while, the pulley was NOT A REPLACEABLE ITEM and you had to replace the entire alternator when the pulley failed. In the last several years, the pulley became a separate item.
This happened to my TDI around 140K miles. I replaced pulley AND the the failed tensionor.... good to go for another 140K miles.
The reason for the pulley issues is because on the TDI engine the alternator pulley has a SPRAGUE CLUTCH. This one-way clutch allows the alternator to 'overrun' when the engine is decellerating.
DO NOT put a solidly-installed (non SPRAGUE) pulley on TDI engine.
That I didn't know!
From what I have now learned about it from checking this forum and others,
seems it's a "wear item" along with the serp' belt and tensioner that VW doesn't mention.
I now wonder, if for some strange reason...this worn out pulley acting up is the cause of my "shuddering" issues between 2000 and 2400 RPM. If it is causing a sudden alternator load on the engine when starting to pull up a grade on CC, then a different qualities of fuel, might..might, be able to create the shuddering effect.
It's a long shot, but so far the alternator clutch pulley is the only suspect I have.
A for being a "wear item", this is simply a point of view. Eventually ALL machines will wear out. Using this logic... Your entire vehicle is a "wear item" too.
Another example- The Timing Belt has a specific replacement interval in miles. However...at the same time EVERY moving component that touches the TB is susceptible to wear and should be replaced at the same time the TB is replaced. These other components are not specifically mentioned in the TB replacement interval... but if you do not replace them, you are ASKING for failure before the next scheduled TB replacement. (Pullies, tensioner, bearings,waterpump, seals....etc.)
In other words -- the waterpump will NOT last as long as 2 Timing-Belts.... so it makes sense to replace the waterpump when the engine is torn apart to replace the Timing Belt. ( Because the TB needs to be removed to replace the waterpump) Most of the cost of TB replacement is LABOR...not parts. Would you want to pay for the same labor AGAIN before the next TB replacement? (along with the associated inconvenience of unexpected downtime)
Fo rthat matter - What kind of "pressure sensor" costs $200?
It sounds to me you need to consider changing your MECHANIC.... not your vehicle.
Oh- I agree with you about the cost of maintaining the DSG xmission... this is one reason I always drive a manual xmission. In over a million miles of driving, I have never EVER had any xmission problems. (all the way back to 1979 VW Scirocco)
It seems silly to pay MORE for a fancy xmission and also have to pay MORE to maintain it.
Last change of fluid/filter cost $270.00 at the dealership, not cheap by any means, but a much better deal than a new DSG.
I think VW originally thought the DSG option could be sold to customers by claiming it was a 'lifetime fluid' set up. Same mistake of a lot of other new cars being sold these days with automatics.
One thing I know for sure, no a/t is "lifetime"...they produce iron filings, brass cuttings, melted plastic, rubber, aluminum shards, and fiberous clutch debris that when all combined is a circulating liquid sandpaper going through the tranny.
Then there is the natural breakdown of the fluid itself....through heat and pressure, it's like a baby, and needs to be changed often and for the same reason.
However, A simple change to the EGR settings thru the onboard computer can greatly limit this clogging. Also, with TDI, one *must* use FULL THROTTLE ACCELERATION at least one time per tankful to keep the carbon-buildup cleaned out.
If you think having the IM cleaned out is expensive, try replacing a carbon-clogged turbocharger (over $1500 just for the part!!) It is far cheaper to blow the carbon out of the turbocharger with the throttle-pedal once in a while.
My TDI is over 150,000 miles and no clogging.... This is testament that I am doing something right.
AS a result of all the grief that comes with the Honda's I am paranoid about any transmission that has fluids and filters so on this service with the VW I just, do it. To make things interesting for the DIY'er out there, the VW fluid change is particulaly complicated. The Honda just gets a drain and fill every second motor oil change, takes about 10 min.
The VW fluid change on the other hand is a total PIA.
any DSG fluid service mileage mentioned in your book, then by all means just call the nearest VW service and ask them what the interval is.
Then shop around (if you can) and get some price quotes for the service. I did this once on a road trip we were taking and the VW Dealer in Las Vegas wanted $595.00!
I got it done at Southtowne VW in Sandy, Utah, for $270.00 , had a coupon, still, that's about an hours shop time plus the filter and fluid, so I didn't think that was too bad, plus they did a recall fix on the drivers seat wiring while it was in for the a/t change.
Saved me a lot of time, plus they gave me a new VW Jetta Sportswagon to drive for a few hours.
(loved that car, if they would have had a TDI in the new "Wheat Beige" and the light colored interior on the lot, we would have traded our 06' on the spot and driven away in the 12')
Last June I was told I needed to replace the Particulate Filter at a cost of $3500.00 without labor. The "warranty had been expired for three days. They told me the service light had been on for 500 miles, which was not true. After I complained VW paid for the parts not the labor. THey did the work, but again did not service the car. VW service said I should drive my car on the highway to blow out particulates?
In July 2012 I went to Jiffy Lube to have the car serviced as I was going on a trip and VW dealer kept saying my car did not need servicing. The Lube garage placed Pennzoil 5W40 Plat Synth Euro in the car, what they said VW recommended.
Several weeks ago the service light came on again and the engine failed while my son was driving. Again, I am told we need to replace the particulate filter , 3500.00 for the filter and then add labor and replace some other things due to the seal on the fuel injection failing and diesel leaked on a belt which also needs replacing.
When we told VW service the exact oil ( above) that had been used they said yes that was right and the warranty would cover it. THen they made a phone call and came back saying the the density of the oil was wrong and that the warranty would not cover it. Needed to be 5W30 not 40.
Has anyone else had trouble with the PARTICULATE Filters?
I have also had the problem of a very loud fan noise for several years...when I asked the dealership service they have twice said they did not notice anything.
As a lay person, I say VW could do a better job educating new owners on Diesel engines.
That way every other owner in your area might give them a WIDE berth!
http://www.edmunds.com/dealer-reviews/
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
Share your vehicle reviews
I even get better MPG than the newer TDIs. With only 140,000 miles, it still has many years of life left.
(Esta mated 2003 TDI engine life is 300,000 miles based on the same engine used in ocean-going vessels)