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Regards
Regards
No, It is because todays lubricants are FARRR better than even 10 years ago. The TDI requires special SYNTHETIC oil which has a high TBN (total base number) which reflects an oils' ability to handle acid build-up.
A number of vehicle manufacturers now specify 10K mile change intervals. Besides... when is the last time you heard of an engine WEARING out?
Anyone that changes oil at 3K miles is wasting $$ the envrionment and oil... only the folks that get paid to change the oil are benifeting.
Cheers
Regards
PS
I would buy the Jetta TDI for the mileage and space in the wagon...
I mean I've seen those Supercharged Regals just eat minivans, jettas, civics..even v6 Accords for lunch.
Regard
In addition to Jaguar and Volkswagen, other notable performances include Cadillac breaking into the top five for the first time ever, coming in second for best overall program in the Luxury class. In Non-Luxury, Mazda moved up to nearly tie Honda for second place.
http://www.intellichoice.com/preowned/pre-main
http://www.autoweek.com/article.cms?articleId=101305
Engine light comes on and provides a malfunction code of P0380, which is glow plug trouble.
The dealership is chasing there tails. The relay has been replaced and there is possible wiring short. They have replaced the relay 3 times and still I drive the car for 3 weeks or so and the same failure starts all over again. Do you know of other websites or technical people other than VW that I can get some help? Maybe other owners have had the same experience? Other than this failure the car has been good with no problems.
To test, you need a test light. You use the battery as the power source. If it lights up, it's considered good. If it doesn't, the glow plugs need replacement. This is how it's described in the service manual.
Watch out for the harness, sometimes, the connector does not get a good connection. You might need to vise grip it to get a tighter connection.
www.bentleypublishers.com prints the service manual.
the oil change intervals are as follows:
5,000 miles
10,000 miles
20,000 miles (every 10,000 miles thereafter)
What kind of special lubrication requirments does the TDI have?
VW505.01-- This special oil is to prevent cam wear which times the individual pump injectors
I asked a local auto maintenance mechanic about VW and he said they have very soft brakes and rotors. Have to replace pads and rotors every 20,000 miles.
The rear pads tend to be soft. Typically you get more brake dust on the rear wheels than the fronts. Around 2001-2002, VW switched suppliers (from ATE to TRW) and a more durable compound. It still dusts a lot though.
My 02 had TRW rear pads. At 40,000 miles when I changed them (anticipating a lot of wear), I actually had a decent amount left, probably good for at least another 20,000 to 40,000 miles. At 90,000 miles my fronts are still good.
When you change the pads, it is recommended to change the rotors also. The difference between a new rotor and a worn rotor is 2mm thickness. 2mm is not a lot of room for wear and the rotors will wear with the pads.
The proper way to test for bad glowplugs is to simply pull the connector off each one and measure the resistance from the top of each glowplug to ground (chassis). Any measurement that shows 'open' is a bad glowplug. There is no need to turn on the key to perform this test.
Replacement glowplugs can be procured at most auto-parts stores for about $18USD each. They just screw into the engine. (Do not forget to apply antiseeze to the threads!!)
Glow plugs, checking and replacing (all models)
1. Disconnect glow plug harness connector
2. Connect a suitable test light to battery positive and touch the other end to the disconnected terminal on the glow plug. See Fig 4. The low resistance of the glow plug will cause the test light to light up if the glow plug is good.
3. Replace defective glow plugs using a 10mm deep socket and suitable extension or use Volkswagen special tool 3220. Torque replacement glow plugs to specification.
Personally being trained in electronics, I use my DVM (Digital Volt Meter) for everything and do not even OWN what you are refering to as a "suitable test light".
The end result is the same... check the GPs for continuity and replace any that measure out as open circuit.
Also, If you have a MANUAL transmission, do not forget that there are 3 ADDITIONAL heaters to help warm up the engine. They are easilly seen sticking out of the coolant connector on the drivers-side of the engine.... each with a glowplug-like connector plugged into them. (In fact, these heaters may even be the same PN as the glowplugs... I have never researched it)
The Automatic tranny does not need these additional heaters because its inherant inneficency wastes some of the engines torque as heat which is "recycled" into the antifreeze and helps to warm up the engine on cold mornings.
SURPRISE: There are differences in the TDI engine based on what tranny is bolted to it. (The above-mentioned heaters and the injection pump are 2 of these differences)
coolant GP's: N 103 021 02
PD's are different
1. you still drive the diesel like a gasser
2. if you have a 5 speed manual driven fairly hard 2500- 3800 rpms you can expect between 42-47 mpg
3. if you have a automatic you can expect app 8 mpg less
4. you are on winterized fuel
5. if you operate a lot in winter conditions it might be good to use a diesel additive that keeps the fuel from gelling at lower temperatures.
6. you still have something incorrect with the vehicle
You can do this check with a laptop computer with vag-com software while it is plugged into the connector under the dash.
When the injection pump was replaced, they SHOULD have set the timings properly. There are 2 components to the timing.... a physical adjustment and a 'electronic' one done by programming the onboard computer. If the physical setting is incorrect, trying to compensate via the computer can cause problems.
SUGGESTON: Do not forget to add Diesel fuel additive EVERY time you fill the tank. You will see better MPG, easier starting and save your expensive injection pump by supplying it with lubrication that is often lacking in winterized fuel. (Kerosene in the Diesel provides very little lubrication for your injection pump)
Automatic or Manual?
How are your driving habits?
How much pressure are in the tires?
Is the air filter clogged?
Do you have any roof racks or something causing extra drag?
Powerservice does have an additive for biodiesel, but they claim it supports up to B20
Apparently, a bad ECT sensor tells the computer that the engine is cold (even when it is not) so too much fuel is injected.
This can be easilly checked using the vag-com software in a laptop computer.
============
Have you cleaned the snowscreen?
http://www.cincitdi.com/richc/snowscreen.html
Not to rub it in but...my 2003 TDI regulary gets 52MPG.
of course, this is a 02 Golf manual
That is not true. If you run biodiesel that meets ASTM 6751 standard it is a violation of Federal law to try and void a warranty. Be sure and clean your fuel filter if you switch to biodiesel. It will clean up your system as it is a very good solvent. Buy your biodiesel from a reputable company and you will not have any problems.
5. WARRANTY ISSUES
There are a variety of statements about biodiesel use from engine/vehicle manufacturers, including some that make reference to warranty. Engine and vehicle manufacturers provide a material and workmanship warranty on their products. Such warranties do not cover damage caused by some external condition. Thus, if an engine that uses biodiesel experiences a failure unrelated to the biodiesel use, it must be covered by the OEM’s warranty. Federal law prohibits the voiding of a warranty just because biodiesel was used -- it has to be the cause of the failure. If an engine experiences a failure caused by biodiesel use (or any other external condition, such as bad diesel fuel), the damage will not be covered by the OEM’s warranty.
I don't run biodiesel because #2 is in almost all cases, when I have compared it is cheaper and I really don't have to go out of my way to buy it. I was however tickled just recently to see biodiesel (b100)being sold on the main drag in downtown Durango. CO.
So to add another data point, on #2 diesel I get between 44-51 mpg on 45 AND 40 cetane. I also add app .64 oz of Primrose 405 (2000-1 dilution rate) for every 10 gal of #2, except when I am traveling as I dont want to take a chance of spilling the additive and having my trunk smell like napalm 24/7.
While I have faith that this additive does its fuel lubricity gig, H20 emulsification, cetane boost etc. [non-permissible content removed] a practical matter, I can tell NO difference, between additive NO ADDITIVE. While I probably should not admit this, I do not drive with an eye to fuel efficiency. It is easy in this TDI to get 51 mpg ! All you have to do is keep it AT (or for even better fuel mileage) or UNDER 85 mph!!!
Most likely the timing it wacked. That will cause it to not start properly AND perform poorly.
If you have an automatic, 37mpg is probably about right running B100 (you didn't say what mix of biodiesel you're running).
Biodiesel should make the vehicle run more quietly, but that could be a timing issue. Might have been off all along and not the injection pump.
Using biodiesel may void your engine or fuel system warantee just like using NON G12 antifreeze may void your engine warantee.
VW has determined that the solvent properties and combustion residue from using biodiesel are harmful to their TDI engine. VW has the last word on what they will and will not cover. Since VW SPECIFICALLY STATES not to use biodiesel, then they are leagally allowed to not cover fuel-system related faulures due to its use.
There is obviously no such thing as voiding your ENTIRE vehicle warantee.... but specific items may not be covered under warantee if you have 'modified' or used somthing that VW specifically warns against. (such as using BD)
Dont get me wrong here, I have not heard of any BD related failures... but I have read VWs stance on the use if BD and the labrotary reports on what BD leaves behind on injectors and in the combustion chamber.
Here are some examples of the testing I am referring to:
http://ss.jircas.affrc.go.jp/engpage/jarq/33-2/Togashi/togashi2.h- - - tml
http://journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_TDI.html
My take is the "environmental" types (the N word is more discriptive) want to push hard in the direction of "lower" unleaded fuel use, but they are experiencing another one of their sacred cows being gored and that is higher fuel prices.
While some will pine for "energy" independence, I think the truth is more like they really dont want lower fuel prices,less emissions, energy independence or in the last analysis, lower fuel usage. But I do think they are intoxicated with the specter of regulatory control.
If the dealership and did not properly set up the basic timing on the new new injection pump.... but instead compensated by adjusting the electronic setting, then it will not run as best as it can.
I have had a VAG connected to my TDI once (to adjust the EGR) and my injection timing was constantly on the 'high side' across the entire graph. (still within spec.) This is considerd the best setting for quick starts and overall better performance.
Back in the 1970s the feds mandated fuel economy and the automakers claimed it could not be done. (While Honda just did it!)
I would LOVE to see some more intelligent mandates from the feds that lead to less energy dependance. Perhaps incentives for driving a Diesel and running biodiesel in it ;-) This needs to be accompined with incentives to the biodiesel makers and the the distribution folks.
but alas... this is federal government we are talking about here and I am about to wake up from this dream world ;-)
Both good articles. The plugging of the injectors is serious. I would have to give some serious thought to subjecting a new vehicle to that chance of failure. Most of my research is based on what they are doing in Hawaii with B100. They do not have the cold to contend with. Hopefully more research will be done in cold climates to resolve some of those issues. I can also see why VW and MB are negative toward biodiesel. Thanks for the links..
Let me put some numbers to the dilemma. For mom and pop to refine (crude) petro chemicals to make unleaded fuel can probably be considered impossible. Not to mention the loss of regulatory control by the FED.
For mom and pop to do "diesel oil" is far more "do able" You can plant soy beans, etc. You can even process used cooking oil,(which by almost any yardstick is an environmental pollutant!?) which according to some sites can cost a total of 45 cents per gal!!! so for me to go 44-47 mpg??!! What is not to like when currently a gal on the corner store is 2.19!!??? 5 x MORE!!!??? Needless to say neither the refiners nor the regulatory agencies nor the petro chemical food chain REALLY wants this to happen!!!?? In fact they do EVERYTHING in their power to make even non profit co ops (nickel and dime operations) conform like a multi billion dollar corporation. !!!???
The President did sign the biodiesel incentive bill the end of 2004. It is supposed to help in the production end of the process. Making biodiesel affordable, while creating jobs in a new industry.
http://www.biodiesel.org/news/taxincentive/
That has to scare the heck out of the politicians. No way to tax them and they are burning up the highway. Here is a B100 dragster first to run in the 7 second range.
http://www.greencarcongress.com/biodiesel/index.html
So say some mom and pop decides to spend the 1800 dollars needed for a biodiesel processor and do vital services such as collect used oil from restaurants, etc. So like processing alcohol (I think 200 gal is considered recreational or hobbiest). At 45 mpg x200 gal = 9,000 miles. This is really not only a element of independence, but the pollution stream is less!!?? I am guessing the FED doesnt want that to go untaxed!!!
Keep in mind, ASTM specifications are voluntary specifications. There is no overarching official that controls the quality of biodiesel.
However, to throw in a monkey wrench, the Engine Manufacturers Association supports soy biodiesel, up to B5 only.
I wish I could say I am that much into saving the environment. Although 200 gallons is not that much in 5 gallon buckets. I rarely put 9000 miles a year on all 3 cars total. Get me an old 300SD smogger and beat Sam out of the taxes we know he is going to waste anyway. And I am keeping the cooking oil out of the landfill.
http://www.berkeleybiodiesel.org/
Not all WVO is suitable for the biodiesel process. If the WVO is too "worn", you cannot use it to make biodiesel.
I wondered where it all goes here on the mainland. The guy who started Pacific Biodiesel on Maui is the landfill manager. He came up with the idea of using it because they were dumping 40,000 gallons a month in the landfill. He first processed it to run the generators and then started selling it as biodiesel. It is an interesting story.
http://www.biodiesel.com/
Yes the 2003 Jetta has been flawless and the Wagon not only is more coveted, gets better fuel mileage and both actually can sell for more used that it was bought for new.
www.bio-beetle.com (a friend of mine rented one for his honeymoon)
I know they get one in at the dealership in Hawaii and the price for a year old one is what you would pay MSRP for a new one. I have watched them on eBay and the wagons are scarce. A VW dealer in PA has a 2005 with leather that is tempting. The dealer in Las Vegas seems to have a quite a few most of the time. He stocks more TDI than gas in the Passat & Jetta wagons. Smart dealer.