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Check here for videos about how to change oil and other TDI maintenance procedures.
HINT: Clean your "snowscreen" ASAP. (I find the snowscreen in my 3 VWs is filthy every 12 months.)
What kind of mileage are owners of the new Jetta TDI getting? I've heard from other folks that after it's broken in their seeing 50 mph highway or even slightly better. Has anyone here experienced that? :confuse:
I like it compared to my 04 Jeep Grand Cherokee that now sits in the garage because it was getting about 16 mpg all around driving and about 20 long haul freeway driving. But it does do a better job hauling and breaking through the snow drifts when necessary.
I checked it out, but it seems a bit pricey compared to what the links bpeebles posted showed (especially the steel factory one for the 01 Jetta).
I think I'll wait a little while to see if some other less expensive options develop once this model has been out awhile.
My 2003 TDI (well broken in) regularly gets over 50MPG and has touched 56MPG on long highway trips. If I were to get anything less than 550 miles on a tank of fuel... I would consider that somthing is seriously wrong with my car.
Of course, anyone looking for MPG will not be using an automatic xmission with a TDI (oxymoron!) The new DSG (automatic manual) xmission has been said to be an exception to this rule. It can get MPG as good as a manual xmission.
“These cars (Jetta’s) are in extreme high demand and in short supply. To add to this VW is not going to produce a model 2007 in a TDI from what we here in any line of car. So don't wait to long because dealers inventory are already getting thin on 2006 TDI's.”
Anyone heard a rumor that VW will not have diesels in their 2007 line-up? I’ll also ask at the VW forum.
I have heard from my dealership here in Canada that VW will not have any TDI's in the line up for 2007. This will be all makes not only the Jetta. They plan on making TDI's in time for 2008 which is going to have some modifications to the engine. Of course as always, there is alot of speculation on this issue. I dont think TDI's will become a thing of the past with VW, but may be delayed for a year.
The reason that I was told no TDI's for 07', is that because of the change in Diesel fuel across North America (Low Sulphur mainly) that the TDI engine to date will no longer need to be as "efficient" to run on the newer fuel. The TDI engine currently takes the exhaust and re-runs it through the cylinders to burn the fuel more efficiently, this system may no longer be needed with the low sulphur diesel. Therefore the TDI's currently will only be that much better with better quality diesel, all North America has to do is compare to Diesel in Europe and try to match it!
So Plan on having long wait times to buy your 06 TDI in the meantime.
Semi and full Synthetic - According to a service bulletin, Volkswagen recommends the use of synthetic oil in the TDI engine. Herein lies the dilemma, as if you take your Volkswagen to a dealer for service, they may try to use an oil which is not CG-4 rated and isn't really a full synthetic. There are a limited number of oils on the market in North America which satisfy the following criteria: CG-4 or CH-4 rating, full synthetic, viscosity 5w30 or 5w40. These oils are suitable for VW's full recommended oil change interval and the viscosity range is suitable for all climates in North America. Contrary to what dealers may tell you, neither Mobil 1 nor Castrol Syntec fulfill all of these requirements - and that information is right on the bottle.
The information in this section refers to API service classes which are North American standards. Different standards for engine oils are used in Europe and elsewhere. It should be noted that since this vehicle was developed in Europe, it is much easier to determine whether a European engine oil is suitable. Any synthetic oil meeting the specification VW 505.00 is suitable for use with this engine with the full recommended oil change interval. The VW 505.00 is the manufacturer's own specification, but in North America this specification is rarely seen, so we must rely on the API grades.
Oils which are suitable for the full recommended oil change interval in all climates include, but aren't limited to:
Mobil Delvac 1, 5w40 (full synthetic, a reformulated version of Mobil 1 which is intended for diesel engines)
Chevron Delo 400, 5w40 (full synthetic version)
Shell Rotella T (full synthetic version, not to be confused with Rotella SB synthetic blend or regular Rotella T non-synthetic)
Amsoil Series 3000, 5w30 (full synthetic, CH-4 rated)
Amsoil High Performance, 10w40 (full synthetic, CH-4 rated)
Redline, synthetic version (make sure you get the type meant for diesel engines, with the CG-4 or CH-4 rating)
Here is the most useful link to answer all your questions.
http://www.stanadyne.com/new/ppt/showfile.asp?id=501
Note: The Purple Label Lubricity Formula is the VW spec additive, and all 8oz is required for 15Gal or 60L. That is where you have heard that all 8 oz are needed.
However, the Blue Label Performance Formula (Which is best for below freezing weather) 8 oz treats 30 Gal or 120 L. So you ONLY NEED 4 oz of this type to treat your car. Or 1/2 the bottle.
The Comparison chart on the link above is great to help you understand the difference in all the types Stanadyne provides, and note it is ok to mix any types of Stanadyne additives. VW dealerships will sell both the types I have mentioned so make sure you pick up the type you feel best for your driving conditions. :P
http://www.stanadyne.com/showfile.asp?id=1107
It cites Performance Formula.
You might have to access the site through the Stanadyne ad at www.tdiparts.com.
Check this link out http://www.stanadyne.com/new/ppt/showfile.asp?id=717
It states that VW has only approved the Lubricity Formula, NOT the Performance. I know it is a bit conflicting :confuse:
For your information Stanadyne indicates that increased dosage of their products is in no way harmful but unessesary. I personally go by the Stanadyne bottle itself. During the winter months I use the Performance Formula 1/2 bottle per fill (4 oz), and when we have extreme cold weeks -30 degrees C I will add a full bottle(8 oz) on rare occasions. I have not ever used their Winter Performance additive as of yet, mainly because I would have to special order the product in. Other than that I use the cheaper Lubricity Formula the rest of the year. Which is recommended by VW. And I only use the Stanadyne required amount. Alot of people feel that additives are over rated and not needed, my opinion is to try it for yourself and not to go too overboard with the amount of additive. Even every other fill up is better than none. I encourage you to read the Stanadyne website and talk with you VW service dealer. :shades:
Can I buy an aftermarket filter, or do I have to buy one from the dealer?
Here are just a few options... at least you can get an idea what the "going price" is. Dont forget, some dealerships actually have reasonable prices. I have found my dealship is actually somtimes LESS than the best online price I can find..And I dont have to pay shipping.
http://www.1stvwparts.com/
http://www.worldimpex.com/
http://www.germanautoparts.com/
http://www.vwpartscentral.com/vwparts/jsp/index.jsp
http://www.volksparts.com/
http://www.bestforeignparts.com/
http://www.rockauto.com/
Any suggestions would be great. Buuurrrr Canada is cold eh. :surprise:
I think it cost me about $5 US for enough pipe-insulation to do the entire grille 3x over. Since my Jetta is Platinum Grey, I selected grey-colored insulation which matches quite well.
The insulation is placed on EVERY OTHER grille slat and thusly will cover the entire grille. You can also choose to cover the lower slats too.
DO NOT COVER THE INTERCOOLER AIR INTAKE!
After I started the engine, I got out to check for leaks, and there was already about a gallon of diesel on my garage floor.
Fuel was coming out of the top of the control valve hole.
What am I doing wrong?
I can't seem to get this retaining clip to stay on.
BTW: That 3-nipple valve is actually a THERMOSTSAT valve. It re-circulates the fuel back thru the filter until is is warmed up. Only after the fuel is sufficently heated... it is sent back to the fuel tank. (The mechanical fuel pump tends to heat up the fuel when it it pressurized)
The reason we want the fuel flowing thru the filter to be heated is to reduce the chance of plugging the filter with paraffan. (keep the paraffan melted into liquid state)
I am on dial up and can't get the movie to run.
I was able to hold the control valve in place with a couple of curtain hooks. The original retainer clip is now lost. It sprung loose, and may have ended up in one of the headlight cavities.
Where can I get a replacement clip?
There seems to be a widespread belief by many that driving these diesel engines hard occasionally and systematically keeps the EGR valve clean. It seems to me that wide open throttle would create more fumes (oil and fuel) going through CCV into the intake where it can combine with particulates (carbon?) coming from the exhaust to form the crud that builds up in the intake of these engines. Does anyone have first-hand factual knowledge of whether this happens faster with easing driving or hard driving? City vs. highway? I don’t care about the EGR valve; I am more concerned about build-up in the intake.
Thanks, in advance.
The other day my wife and I did a test drive of a VW Jetta TDI and I loved it. Today she mentioned that the smell of diesel fuel, ever so slight as it was to her, kind of made her sick. I never smelled a thing, but maybe after 30+ years of working on tugs I would not notice a faint diesel smell.
Thanks
I hope this helps you.
I just checked, and it was under the dash, all the way over to the left end where the dash meets the left kick panel.
Many folks chose to use a conductive-gell coating on the flow=plug harness connectors. This both protects from corrosion and provide a better connection.
BTW: next time, all you have to do is check the resistance of the glowplugs after pulling the connectors. It is MUCH easier than removing them - just to check if they are burned out.
Besides, your TDI also has an INTERCOOLER and the on-board computer already has a sensor for the intake-air-temp and compensates accordingly.
The VERY BEST power boost for a TDI is to upgrade the INJECTORS.
Perhaps you would do well to gain some more knowledge about how a turbocharger/intercooler work toghther on a diesel engine before you go bolting on more stuff. Do some more research on the web.
The only other real issue is the snow "prophylactic" qualities of the snorkel, snorkel screen. I have left mine on and clean the screen each 5,000 miles.
A big if, but if you do not want/need or are ok with the higher RISK of hydro lock to your engine, just simple removal of the snorkel does the trick (the same risk for hydro lock exists with any cold air modification). This will make the bottom of the stock air box the defacto default gathering place for "sucked" in debris. This is of course at ZERO cost.
Together with the chip, an upgrade with the Italian injectors will probably make the car drive MUCH differently than you are used to. If you have a manual and like to "get on it" be prepared for the likely hood of less mpg, less longevity of the clutch. (due to clamping or lack there of issues) A stage 2 clutch upgrade might be in the cards, again if you tend to "get on it"
If you have the automatic, it tends to better handle the extra hp and torque.
So in closing if you decide to get a CAI, it will be mainly for looks (useless and costly and really not for "better" performance. If I were making the upgrade, I'd put the money (which will be app 1/2) into the Italian injectors.
If you do a search on www.tdiclub.com it can give you a far more technical explanation. However the upshot is cetane ratings for D2 function like octane ratings for RUG to PUG. Past a certain point (50-60 cetane) it is overkill.
Also, as mentioned above, with upgraded injectors the TDI engine will generate soo much torque, that you can easilly destroy the clutch just by applying too much throttle. The stock clutch is just strong enough to handle the stock power that the TDi generates.
As with any path of making more power... the costs can become endless. As you upgrade one thing-- the next thing in the path becomes a weak-point.
Some folks have reported that the VR6 clutch has been able to handle the extreme torque that a TDI can generate with upgraded injectors.
Recent U.S. legislation will compel all new diesel passenger cars and I believe trucks as well sold post Jan 1st, 2007 to meet current gasoline engine emission standards.
(To meet those standards, these diesel engines need to burn Ultar Low Sulphur Diesel, which is being distributed throughout North America this year).
I could be wrong here, but maybe VW is using the year off selling TDIs in North America to retool its diesel manufacturing plants and ramp up production of these much cleaner engines which 2008 VW TDIs will sport.
Cheers.
Told Yes - must change out belt and schedule maintenance for that service $1,200.
Is this true??? (Represents 1 year of fuel savings!!)
Most of the automobile engines sold today have timing belts that need to be replaced. This is not the unusual part about your question... the big deal is the cost you were quoted. There are less-expensive ways to have a proper timingbelt change performed.
Keep in mind that VW uses "stretch bolts" for all critical fasteners. This means that they mst be replaced once they are removed. Also, the waterpump, tensionor and other components should be replaced along with the timing belt while the engine is apart.
Beware of anyone that tells you that they can do a timingbelt change and NOT replace these components. You will be asking for BIG TROUBLE. (Some folks have said that their engine almost fell out from under the car because the mounting bolts were REUSED during a timingbelt change.)
Also, if the waterpump and tensionor pully are reused... they are almost sure to fail before the next scheduled timingbelt change.... so you will be paying AGAIN for all the labor to take the engine apart.
Where do I find the DPS and how do I test it on a TDI?
Thanx
Cost in 85 for service was $1,100 for the Volvo - so price quoted, while sounding high, did not come as surprise.