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VW Jetta TDI

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Comments

  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    Are you going to get rid of the Bonneville regardless? If not, it may be hard to recoup the loss of trading vehicles. How many miles do you drive? That's the big question because if you're going to cut your fuel bill in half....if you're an average driver (15k miles per year) that will save about $900/year. That's not a lot considering the cost of getting into a new car.
  • dl7265dl7265 Member Posts: 1,381
    C@D got 10.3. If your into jack-rabbit starts this is not the car for you. But, at speed or highway passing there is oodles of torque. It's a different kind of fun.

    DL
  • vwinvavwinva Member Posts: 71
    I have an 02 TDI automatic. Driving 32K a year. Averaging 42MPG. And diesel in Va. is below regular. From what I have seen ULSD will price $.05-.10 more per gallon. Well worth it for me. I would suggest a diesel only if you are going to drive 20K/yr or more. And mostly highway. Around town a hybrid works better. Stop & go is where the regenerative braking pays off. My wife has a Civic hybrid, gets 50MPG under these conditions. Definitely go with a manual. Automatic costs your 4mpg.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I have one comment your statement "Definitely go with a manual. Automatic costs your 4mpg." This is not true about the DSG xmission.

    The new DSG xmission has been reported to be at least as good as a well-deiven manual xmission. Dont forget that the DSG xmission is really an "automatic-manual" transmission. It actually changes gears in about 0.8 seconds due to the dual clutches.

    The DSG xmission is NOT like any other automatic transmisision. It is based on the same design as F1 race car xmissions.

    It has been reported that the DSG xmission is perhaps the 1st REAL new transmission technology available to the public since the invention of the automatic transmission.
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    From what I have seen ULSD will price $.05-.10 more per gallon.

    In San Diego the ARCO/BP stations started selling ULSD more than a year ago. Their diesel is cheaper than their regular unleaded. Their diesel is generally the least expensive in our area. I don't think the ULSD will cost more, in CA diesel is taxed higher than gas. It costs less to refine diesel than gas. It is all politics these days.
  • vwinvavwinva Member Posts: 71
    Do you - or anyone else on this board - have actual MPG stats for the DXG? Not what is on the window, what someone is getting in actual usage.
  • vwinvavwinva Member Posts: 71
    Anyone heard anything further about this SUV? Will VW bring out a TDI version?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I dont have any real-world experinece with the DSG xmission. HOWEVER: In general VW TDIs get higher MPG than what is on the window sticker.

    The MPG will tend to climb for the first 20 -to- 30 thousand miles.... especially if attention is given to breaking in the engine for maximum compression. (thus maximim efficency)

    As with any automobile, your driving habits play a large part in your actual MPG. I have always been able to at least match the window-sticker on any vehicle I have owned.
  • cosmocosmo Member Posts: 203
    For the first 322 miles off the dealer's lot, I averaged 44.2 mpg. That was a mix of highway (45 mph to 70 mph) and city driving during the initial break-in. (According to the manual, you can get it up to 120 mph during break-in as long as you do not accelerate rapidly, but my wife wouldn't let me. :() I think it will probably exceed the sticker estimate even more by 2010 when it should be fully broken-in. ;)
  • ctdtdictdtdi Member Posts: 2
    My wife and I bought a 2006 Jetta TDI with the DSG transmission; it’s my wife’s car that I get to drive when I’m lucky.
    Don’t listen to anyone that says to only get the 5-speed manual unless they have had a lot of windshield time behind the DSG.(It’s a great transmission and I wouldn’t trade it for a 5-speed any day. It also is supposed to get as good or better fuel mileage than the manual.)
    I have a Camry and the Jetta gets around 11-13 mpg better in commuting to work than the Camry and has got 23.75 mpg better on the highway.
    Don’t believe the mileage computers in any car when figuring fuel mileage; they tend to be very generous.
    Our car has about 14,000 miles on it now and gets 37.5 to 42 mpg everyday driving and I have got 53.75 mpg on the highway. When this car gets fully broken-in I would bet I can get 60 mpg on the highway, but you have to drive for fuel mileage to achieve those numbers.
    When I got in a hurry one day I got 30 mpg, so your driving habits will determine if you get great or poor fuel mileage. I will admit I had a blast when I got the 30 mpg and the 53.75 was one boring drive.
    The Jetta is so fun to drive you wont regret buying one at all, my wife wishes she had got one a long time ago and wouldn’t trade it for anything. Her previous vehicle was a minivan that cost $50.00 a week in fuel before gas went up and now cost $35.00 every two weeks for the same drive. If you don’t like it I doubt you will have a hard time selling it, they hold their resale very well.
    I hope this help you in your decision!
  • music287music287 Member Posts: 116
    We're about to order a TDI. The difference in price between Package 1 and 2 is $1900! What am I missing here? Package 2 includes leather seats, dual-control climate and....what else? I'm thinking we can live with the leatherette seats.
    Any thoughts?

    Jay
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    I did EXACTLY that. At the time the difference were reflected in GL vs GLS. I did get the GL and have never been unhappy. I do have all that jazz in other cars, leather seats, dual-climate control and yada, yada. So at worst I do not fell deprived. However I got it only because it was the fully loaded optional "NON" option. :) So I guess I am saying I would NOT have gotten them, if there was a choice.

    The choice in seats might be a bit more practical in that it does affect/effect your long term short term comfort. However one can out fit the drivers (up to the whole car for that matter) with comfort/ protection devices such as sheepskin, cloth, wet suit material etc. In the worst case, if you do not put a comfort/protective covering, a worn seat might need to be recovered.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    I thought the Leatherette was fine. Most leather seats are only really leather on the top surfaces anyway. I normally pile on the options when buying, but if I decided on a new Jetta right now I'd take Package #1. You also lose 12-position power seat with memory, but that's not a biggie to me either. I don't find dual-climate control all that exciting in cars anyway.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I am not certain... but I thought HEATED SEATS was one of the perks with the upgrade.

    ANYONE that lives in colder climates better get the heated seats... the TDI engine will put out very little heat on a cold day. On my drive to work, the heated seats is the ONLY warmth I get from the Jetta. (this is WITH cover over the grill to keep the -15F air out of the engine)
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    Package numero uno has heated seats with the leatherette. Used to be, you could get heated seats with cloth on the older TDI's.
  • ctdtdictdtdi Member Posts: 2
    I believe the TDI has electric heat that comes on until the engine is warmed up to make –up for the lack of engine heat during start up. My car is the package one model with heated leatherette seats and I like these as much as the leather.
    You loose the mileage computer and dual climate control with package one.
    The heated seats are very nice to have.
  • sean9sean9 Member Posts: 82
    I usually get around 43mpg(70%highway,30%city) with the DXG, But I do drive my car fairly hard. However I only have about 9000miles on my car not fully broken in yet. I have gotten 50mpg on an all highway trip without speeding too much. I will let you know how much better it gets as time goes on.

    And just to let everyone know Diesel is about 30 cents a liter cheaper than gasoline here in Edmonton, Alberta. :)
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    my 03 jetta tdi had package 2 but i traded it for 05 passat tdi with package 1 plus sunroof/bunwarmers/ESP . i actually prefer leatherette & zero dead-animal parts and zero wood/woodgrain whatsoever in any car.
    i do miss having the power/memory seat but the volksy manual seat adjusters are as good as they get, much easier than the manual seats on a 1996 volvo 855..
  • cosmocosmo Member Posts: 203
    You are right about the electric heater. The manual temperature control dial controls the interior temperature just like the automatic climate control unit does. It can be set from 64 degrees to 80 degrees. With the system set to recirculate, the interior starts heating up within seconds. While driving my 2004 Passat TDI would be misery for the first five miles or so in the winter without the heated seats, the Jetta TDI should be even more comfortable than a gasser. (Kinda reminds me of the gas heater in the cabin of my '63 VW double cab pickup. You'd be sweating before driving a mile in zero degree weather.)

    I despise sun roofs because of the reduced head room and the potential for rattles. The only sun roof I ever liked was the tilt and remove sun roof on my Audi Coupe GT. So, I ruled out Package 1 and 2.

    When I went into the local dealer to buy a Jetta TDI Package 0, the lot lizard and lead lizard told me VW does not make them. 15 minutes on the Internet and one phone call was all I needed to locate two within 200 miles. If I decide to add satellite radio, there is always Crutchfield.
  • jmayrojmayro Member Posts: 2
    I've had my '06 Jetta TDI (leatherette,6 speed auto) for exactly one month now and ABSOLUTELY LOVE IT! The gas mileage figures from the above post is what I've experienced so far. I'd go with the leatherette; it's already hot down here in TX and it seems to breathe well. Good luck with it, I'm sure y'all will love it.

    Jeff
  • traumagastraumagas Member Posts: 64
    I am wanting a Wagon TDI Jetta or Passat Whats the deal on the Wagons Are they going to make them ?

    Thanks Jon
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    don't hold your breath. if you want a TDI wagon i think you'll have to find a used one or wait until 2008 model year at the earliest . i miss my 48 mpg 2003 jetta TDI wagon - but i don't miss its mediocre handling/ride.
    i sure do like VWs but my latest diesel fantasy is for GM to make a DIESEL MALIBU MAXX in 2008!
  • jkinzeljkinzel Member Posts: 735
    elias, A diesel in just about anything. The Impala or Ford Fusion or 500 would be nice, but nothing until 2008 model year, maybe. I just hope the 93 explorer can hold on until then.
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    I am wanting a Wagon TDI Jetta or Passat Whats the deal on the Wagons

    They are a rare breed. I could have sold a dozen of my 2005 Passat Wagon TDIs. The phone is still ringing two weeks after the ad expired. I also sold it for more than I paid for it new 13 months ago.

    VW is offering a Passat Wagon, no diesel yet.
  • wf98271wf98271 Member Posts: 3
    Better stereo w/sat radio. bigger ($1300)wheels ($1300) heated seats, etc.
  • wf98271wf98271 Member Posts: 3
    Definitely worth buying. My worst mileage was 35.9 (just after purchase). Normal local avg. 40-41 mpg. Best mileage on a 500mi.+ trip: Tacoma, WA. to Hope B.C., via Vancouver B.C., was 47.3. Didn't use the computer..can't trust it. Figured actual miles/gallons.
    This with the 6 speed auto DSG tranny.
  • ronald0731ronald0731 Member Posts: 2
    Has anyone tried using bio-diesel in late model Jetta tdi if so how did it run ? :)
    Just bought a new 2006 and love it only thing I do not like is the key. First tank of fuel I got 38.4 and that was most of the time on interstate do 75 to 80. :)
  • jiclarkjiclark Member Posts: 4
    I, too, would love more info from anyone about using biodiesel in recent model Jetta TDIs. I have an '05, and from what I've been able to gather, the warranty would be voided by using anything more than a 5% mix! I even found a press release from VW online that made it sound like some huge pat on the back was required because they were "allowing" this!! A mechanic told me no one would be able to tell the difference if I used higher, even 100%, but that doesn't seem right.

    Anyone have more info on this??

    Thanks,
    John
  • ronald0731ronald0731 Member Posts: 2
    I cook up a batch to put in my 82 Nissan Diesel and it runs fine on it.
    On the 2006 Jetta I just bought I understand it has a heated fuel filter which is great for the bio diesel.
    I have less that 1000 miles on car but thought that to start with 30% bio might work.. :confuse:
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    Had a leak in the radiator, i believe it started from impact with some roadkill awhile back. My daughter has been driving the car and took on a very largy [non-permissible content removed] late one night. Started very slightly leaking soon after and started becoming a problem last week. I decided to do the radiator myself, having some time on my hands for once.

    The dealer quoted me $1030 to replace the radiator. I called them for fun, I had no intention of using them because I like to see how crazy VW dealer are sometimes. Anyway, I ordered an OEM radiator and two gallons of VW G-12 coolant from www.worldimpex.com for $230. I also threw in a set of front brake pads and rotors which I've been needing. Total with shipping for all parts was $348.64.

    The dealer quoted 6 hours to replace the radiator. I had 4.5 hours in the job. Not bad considering I've never taken the front of the car off before and had to refer to the Bentley guide several times. I'm sure an experienced tech could do it much quicker so they're padding themselves pretty heavily. The brake pads/rotors took about an hour. The fronts are very easy to change. I've heard folks paying upwards of $500 for a front brakes at the dealer. So for an afternoons work and $350, I've got a new radiator and front brake pads/rotors.

    BTW, the car has 143k miles and this was the first time the front pads/rotors have been changed. The pads actually had a reasonable amount of life on them, but the rotors were starting to run-out and causing vibration during braking. The rears were changed around 80k miles.
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    I'm sure an experienced tech could do it much quicker

    That may be the problem. The dealer does not have a good mechanic. I am thinking of buying a 1990s Beetle TDI to fix up. All good info thanks, Gary
  • dingo9dingo9 Member Posts: 2
    I have been told that the bad cupping on one of my current and relatively new tires may be the result of a bad strut. Any advice on replacement struts and tires? I drive fast (everything is far apart here in New Mexico) so I am quite interested in good handling and control.

    Also, how hard is it to replace the struts? The dealer wants $125.00 labor per strut. I didn't bother to ask what the struts would cost.

    Thanks,

    dingo9
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    I did mine several years ago and they were a little difficult up front. The rears shocks are a snap, ten minute job. I used Bilsteins all around and have been very happy with them. Check out www.worldimpex.com for the parts. I'd recommend getting the Deluxe strut/shock hardware kit as well. You'll want all new bushings/bolts when doing this job.

    There is also at least one special tool needed for the fronts....but I don't remember exactly what. IIRC, the front passenger side was quite tricky due to the axle. Some folks take the axle off, but I was able to extend the suspension down enough to avoid that. If you're not real handy, you might want to have someone else do the fronts.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Yes, the rear shocks are literally a snap. The front struts you have to take a more systemic approach as rubber parts and bearing and bolts might need or should be replaced. You also will most probably need an alignment. :(

    Not to make this issue any more difficult than it has to be, but the oem Sachs struts and shocks are actually very well built and sophisticated products, despite vilification by a whole lot of folks. "Crap out" is really either a blown seal or strut/shock leakage. This is PROBABLY not the case!!?? I have actually seen shock dyno figures where the actual degradation % is actually less than the degradation % of supposed superior aftermarket products. Not that these products are BAD but that the SACHS oem products are that good !!!

    To make a long story short the real issues are the strut and shock oil crapping out with no way to R/R other than changing out the struts and shocks. Another is a blown seal and or leaking strut and shock.

    The other issues is the softer compliant ride vs the HARD rebound feeling. So indeed you might not NEED the components changed out so much as you might WANT it done.

    I have been in your great state (NM)several times with my TDI and I can assure you, as bad as you think your roads are, Northern CA roads are by FAR worse than yours. So with 74,000 miles and oem tires springs and struts and shocks I will be good to go with GY LS-H's (another vilified product) to a min of 100k and possibly 125k.
  • dingo9dingo9 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks to sebring95 and ruking1 for the insights. Yes if $$ grew on trees I'd harvest some and rush out and stiffen up my whole rig. However, the real obvious problem is when I had the tires rotated a couple of weeks ago they balanced up the cupped tire. Now the tire makes a terrible racket at highway speed.

    I don't want to pay for anything, but perhaps I should start with a wheel alignment? Is it possible that a misaligned setup would cup only one tire? I thought maybe a thrown wheel weight, but in addition to the cupping my observation is that the tires are all wearing rather fast.

    The car is too good not to be safe - so I need to get to address the real problem. I can wait for new tires, etc., if an alignment is the best short term 1st step, and I can drive and be sure it is safe. Ideas?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Most good shops will check for "play" in all the suspension joints BEFORE doing an alignment. If there is any issue, they will alert you to the problem INSTEAD of doing an alignment that will not "take".

    More dubious shops will do the alignment ANYWAY and charge you and send you on your way. A big waste of $$ since any "play" in the suspension throws the alignment out of whack.

    In my state (Vermont) there is a manditory VSI (Vermont State Inspecttion) whereas every safety item on the car is carefully inspected. (right down to the headlight aiming)
    I am always glad to have some suspension components flagged as loose and have them replaced. Paying for tires is MUCH more expensive than a $30 ball-joint.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Sure, The bottom line is with advanced cupping there is not much you can do to even it out. So indeed it might be a serious of little things or one or two main things. Let me explain. Worse case is you may have to replace all or some of the tires. and/or alignment and balancing. So first eliminate suspension component issues.

    I do a 5 tire rotation (CROSS ROTATION) at 10,000 miles intervals. I also made sure the dealer delivered the car with correct alignment. Also within the new car adjustment period also had the alignment checked again after some miles of wear in. The wear is about dead even across the width of the tread.

    So clue me in,

    1. is the wear on the right side? (front passenger to be specific?) technical data hints at the right side wearing faster than the left(bearings,rotors, pads tires) it does NOT pop out at you on the technical data.

    2. have you been doing the OEM recommended 4 tire rotations front to rear rear to fronts then the technical data indicates the front right wears faster than the left side. And so over time you have put only two tires on the right passenger side rather than the 5 tires if you do a cross rotation. If this is not clear or I am being vaque let me know.

    3. what intervals have you been using?

    The other issue is the 60/40 weight bias to the front. In operation this can be transient to a more normal 80/20. So the fronts tend to wear more. This is why one should rotate on intervals.
  • jmayrojmayro Member Posts: 2
    Having bought an '06 Jetta TDI last month, I've been trying to catch up to speed with all the discussions about biodiesel and other fuel alternatives. Given the warranty issues,I've pretty much decided to drive it on regular #2 diesel until the warranty is up (100K will probably come quicker than 4 years). What I'm wondering is is there anything I could be doing now (fuel additives, practices, etc..) that will aide in the transititon when it comes? Any thoughts would be most appreciated.
  • teresabutler89teresabutler89 Member Posts: 34
    Hi, Noticed you also bought a 2006 Jetta TDI.

    We just bought one in April , has 3500 miles on it. It is already in the VW repair shop.

    The engine coolant fan would not shut off. My husband had to unhook the battery to get it to shut off.

    Dealer called yesterday to say that a module went bad and that they were over nighting two new engine coolant fans to get it back on the road.

    I was wondering if anyone else has already started having problems with their TDI JEtta's?

    I noticed a JEtta listed on ebay, not a TDI though but a Jetta 2006 that was already a buy back in the state of MASS. They guy selling it claims that it had a electrical short and the repair shop re-programmed the computer and they swear up and downt that they have checked and re-checked it and the car is fine.

    I am getting a little worried , already about our car considering that it was already had a break down within the first month of ownership. We live in IL and the lemon law here is not to good. Has to break down within 12,000 miles or 12 months and has to break down four times for the same darn thing, before it is declared a lemon.

    We have the automactic triptronic transmission.

    I sometimes think it is not shifting like it should.

    Does anyone else on here have this tranmission? Do you notice anything not right about it's shifting?

    I love the gas mileage on this car and it is very classy looking, alot of people have already mistaked it for a BMW.

    Please adise, should I be worried that we have :lemon: here?

    thanks teresa
  • teresabutler89teresabutler89 Member Posts: 34
    Hi, Noticed you also bought a 2006 Jetta TDI.

    We just bought one in April , has 3500 miles on it. It is already in the VW repair shop.

    The engine coolant fan would not shut off. My husband had to unhook the battery to get it to shut off.

    Dealer called yesterday to say that a module went bad and that they were over nighting two new engine coolant fans to get it back on the road.

    I was wondering if anyone else has already started having problems with their TDI JEtta's?

    I noticed a JEtta listed on ebay, not a TDI though but a Jetta 2006 that was already a buy back in the state of MASS. They guy selling it claims that it had a electrical short and the repair shop re-programmed the computer and they swear up and downt that they have checked and re-checked it and the car is fine.

    I am getting a little worried , already about our car considering that it was already had a break down within the first month of ownership. We live in IL and the lemon law here is not to good. Has to break down within 12,000 miles or 12 months and has to break down four times for the same darn thing, before it is declared a lemon.

    We have the automactic triptronic transmission.

    I sometimes think it is not shifting like it should.

    Does anyone else on here have this tranmission? Do you notice anything not right about it's shifting?

    I love the gas mileage on this car and it is very classy looking, alot of people have already mistaked it for a BMW.

    Please adise, should I be worried that we have :lemon: here?

    thanks teresa
  • teresabutler89teresabutler89 Member Posts: 34
    HI, We haved used bio-diesel in our new 2006 jetta several times and did not notice too much difference, but maybe less MPG. WIth regular diesel we get around 42 mpg , with the bio I figured we were getting around 38-39.

    OUr dealer told us that they should get better Mpg around 5000 miles on the engine, when it starts to get broke in.

    But , just a thing to watch though, we have already had our 2006 TDI jetta break down on us. The engine coolant fan would not shut off. My husband had to unhook the battery to keep the fan from running, pulling the fuse would not shut it off.

    I was curious has anyone on here tried making their fuel?

    I found a site that claims you can make your own fuel from used cooking oils and a additive. :)
  • gvanicagvanica Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Passat Wagon V6 4Motion. I like the handling of the Passat but I don't like the 16-20 MPG. I am thinking to trade it in for a 2006 Jetta TDI. I test drove the Jetta but it seemed noisier (road noise at highway speeds) and less stable than the Passat at over 65-70 mph.
    Also fit & finish quality seems a notch down from the Passat.
    Any advice ?

    Thanks, geo.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Yes look at the PASSAT Wagon TDI!! The MPG is no where near the Jetta. However the hp and torque are much better.
  • teresabutler89teresabutler89 Member Posts: 34
    Hi, what did they ever figure out was wrong with your 2006 Jetta?

    I have recentely seen a 2006 Jetta from Mass. on ebay , were the dealer was stating it was a customer buy back, because it was down for more than 10 days. The selling dealer states that there was a electrical short in the car and that the cars computer had to be re-programmed and they consumer had the right due to the Mass. lemon law to make the selling dealer buy the car back. SO the selling dealer is now selling the lemon on ebay, listing it as having a clean title. This car is now as I type this on ebay for sale.

    We too also have a 2006 Jetta TDI , just made our first payment in the repair shop already. Repair dep. states module went out in one fan which caused the 2nd engine coolant fan to stay running. Had to unhook battery to shut fan off. Called roadside assistance and they towed it to dealer in Springfield to be repaired.

    Can't say I am to happy with the selling dealer on how they handled our first needed repair. We were supposed to be given a loaner car to drive, and our car was supposed to have been picked up at our house by the dealer and loaner dropped off, did not happen, Had to call road side assistance. Several calls to service manager , keep getting he's in a meeting, his on the phone right now. Finally get a call back from service manager to find out that they want me to find a way to Sprinfield a hour away for me to pick up a rental car, never mind the fact that I have two four year old one who is in a wheel chair to pick up a rental car and I do not even have a car to drive.

    Then they wanted me to ride with my kids in a car with a total stranger, someone they were going to have pick me up from springfield to take me all the way to springfield to get the rental car.

    I could not figure out why they would just not have someone drive me a car to use and have someone follow them to pick them up.

    Had they sent someone down after my car and driven the loaner car like they stated they would the issue would have been resolved, but they claim out of a mega dealership that owns almost more than half the dealerships in Springfield that they did not have 1 loaner car for me to drive.

    So you are not alone in your first horrible experience with VW, this is also our first VW and if anything else happens here closely following this break down , will make it our last.

    Let us know what they found out about your car. j

    I would not be surprised if the whole lot of the VW 2006's are not plaqued with major problems and VW loses their butts due to consumer buy backs. Just hope they happen with the lemon law limits for your state though.

    We were stupid enough to sign on the loan paper a waiver taking our rights away from us to take the dealer to court over anything about our car, ""well never sign something like this again."

    IL' lemon laws pretty much stink. You have to have 4 repairs within 12 months or 12,000 miles and they all have to be for the same repair. I find this very unfair, because to me a lemon is a car that has four things wrong with it and they could be 4 different things , especially within the first 12,000 miles of ownership. :lemon:
  • teresabutler89teresabutler89 Member Posts: 34
    diesel_soot

    When did you purchase your 06 TDI jetta?

    We bought ours in april and it to is in the shop.

    I came home from a trip to Peoria and had been outside doing some gardening when a hour later I went into the garage and noticed the engine coolant fan was still running. My husband tried pulling the fuse, would not shut off, had to dis connect the battery to stop it.

    Our first payment and its already in the shop.

    Service dept. says a module went bad and they are over nighting two new fans.

    I have read on ebay , a dealer selling a 2006 buy back due to electrical short, they claim computer was re-programmed and was fixed.

    So it is starting to look like you might want to keep our eye and ears open to what your car does or doesn't do.

    Good luck I hope your car turn out to be a good. :)
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    As stated in the message right over the post box, please do not post your email address. We don't want you exposed to those who would use it maliciously for one thing. For another, we are an online community and would prefer that conversations take place here on the boards. That way the comments are available to benefit all.

    Thanks!
  • teresabutler89teresabutler89 Member Posts: 34
    SOrry I guess I need better glasses did not see the small print. ;)
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    :)
  • lmcclmcc Member Posts: 3
    I'm pretty scared...I have to have my 2002 Jetta TDI (5-speed manual trans) towed tomorrow. I am out of town and I was driving along and heard a loud "clunk" in the area of the right front of the vehicle. I thought I had hit something on the road, it sounded kind of like that. I pulled over and checked out the right front and undercarriage of the car, nothing visible, so I tried taking off. I had no power. I had to rev the engine way up even to take off in first gear. I could run in second gear, albeit slowly to get back to my parents house, but in 3rd their wasn't enough power to keep it moving. My regular mechanic is about a hundred miles away, and I sure don't want to pay to tow it that far, but I'm worried about what might have happened, and that a dealer won't try replacing things that don't need to be replaced. Any ideas on what I might be dealing with? I've got 123,000 miles, timing belt replaced twice on schedule, regular oil changes, no problems so far except EGR valve once. Help! (Of course its Memorial Day weekend)
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    That could be a lot of things really. Will the car move if left in neutral (coast/push it easily)? Make sure to release the parking brake. That will tell you if something is physically holding the vehicle back or if it's a something in the engine/transmission. I don't think a failed turbo would cut so much power that the vehicle would barely move. Let us know what you find...
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