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Honda Civic Sedan 2006

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Comments

  • fordfocusfordfocus Member Posts: 37
    oh, ok, thanks for the info.

    in response to sightings:
    I have only seen a silver EX sedan in motion. It was a dealer plate on test drive and it does look good from the back, a bit tall maybe, but interesting curves and creases. I wonder what the 'best' color for the Civic will be...ok, ok, depends on the person.
  • allfiredupallfiredup Member Posts: 736
    No, it wouldn't be that the engine bogged down, just to maintain 75-80 going up a significant incline on the highway would require a shift down to 4th.
  • 307web307web Member Posts: 1,033
    And people who have the even the slightest concern about fuel economy would drive 80MPH up a significant incline?
  • allfiredupallfiredup Member Posts: 736
    Yes, on the interstate sure. Driving 75-80 doesn't mean I don't want to get the best fuel economy I can at those speeds.
  • natenj1971natenj1971 Member Posts: 174
    I saw a black LX sedan pulling out of a gas station in Princeton NJ yesterday. The driver was atleast 70 years old - which made me smile since this models targer consumer is much younger. .
  • bcmalibu99lsbcmalibu99ls Member Posts: 625
    in Vancouver, BC yet. And Canadians buy a lot of Civics - I believe I've read it's Canada's best selling vehicle.

    So, who wants to tell us if the turn signal in a new Civic is orange or red? I like orange better, as it is much more visible, and can save you from being rear-ended.

    Also, if someone could post pictures of the interior, especially of folded back seats, it would be most appreciated! Thank you
  • mrunknownmrunknown Member Posts: 15
    It's red on the one I saw at the dealer. Lame. :(
  • nsa350nsa350 Member Posts: 3
  • nsa350nsa350 Member Posts: 3
    Just purchased and picked it up. A day later I am noticing a small tear and peel of the black sealant arount the driver's side door window. If you are familiar with the part that I am explaining, could you know offer some suggestions on how to mend this.
    The car is silver but around all the door windows it is outlined in that black sealant (not sure what to call it).
    Thanks.
  • threeflysthreeflys Member Posts: 2
    I have an '06 EX auto and was wondering something. When I'm in reverse
    or sometimes in drive and stop on an incline, the car will roll down
    the hill. Is this normal? I've never had an auto roll when in gear
    before. Otherwise, the car is SWEET!
    Thanks,
    Chris
  • bigal3bigal3 Member Posts: 107
    Is it the black strip which the edge of the glass window will slide into when the window is closed? It is a new car under warranty. For me, I will take it back to the dealer & make them fix it (free of charge, of course).
  • joeluc13joeluc13 Member Posts: 50
    That's normal. Honda's with ATs are like that.
  • bigal3bigal3 Member Posts: 107
    I thought the auto trans design for Honda uses "lock-up convertor" which will prevent the car from slipping backwards once it is put on "drive".....but I can be wrong.

    For the auto trans in my BMW3 & E320, those cars will stay & will not roll backwards on an incline even if I release the brakes or hand brakes.

    My new 2006 EX coupe is a 5 speed manual, I have to use hand-brake when I "stop & go" on an incline.
  • nsa350nsa350 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks bigal3... The tear is actually on the outside edge of the door...so if I was to open the door and run my fingers along the outside edge of the door itself I would eventually come to the tear and actually feel it. Its more of an eyesore than anything else. It seems to be more auto-body related and I was hoping there is some sort of tape or glue out there that can mend it. Do you still think the dealership will fix it free of charge?
  • mrunknownmrunknown Member Posts: 15
    Seriously? Partially engaging the clutch is not enough? This MT sounds worse and worse. I can't imagine the pain of having to engage the hand brake on an incline every time.
  • njdevil1njdevil1 Member Posts: 45
    we have a 2005 civic ex se that had a tear on the weather seal molding around the edge of the driver's side door that was replaced under warranty with no problem. the car had over 17,000 miles on it when it was done.
  • bigal3bigal3 Member Posts: 107
    Oh, you mean the rubber strip which seal the edge of the door when you close the door?

    Hey, it is a brand new car & it is under factory warranty. The dealer should replace the rubber strip for you (free of charge) if there is any defects. Even if it is accidently damaged or torned under reasonable conditions, I think the dealer will still replace it for free.

    2 years ago, I accidently torn the rubber strip which seal the edge of the car trunk when I pull a heavy box from the trunk. The car was under warranty & the dealer replace it for free (the dealer got paid by the manufacturer for replacing parts under warranty).

    Worse come to worse, if you happened to buy the car from a nasty dealer & they refuse to replace it for free, you can just say no & drive the car away. You have nothing to lose anyway.
  • bigal3bigal3 Member Posts: 107
    When I have to stop & pause on a slope (incline), I always use my hand-brakes.

    I don't want to over-heat or wear out the clutch pre-maturely by partially engaging the clutch on a slope. Beside, you will also burn up more gas & your legs have to partially engaging the clutch as well as the accelerator for the whole length of time when you pause.

    When I use the hand-brake, I just pull the hand-brake once & it will lock itself in position. The engine can idle and my legs & hand can relax for the whole length of time when the car stop or pause.

    When it is time to go again, I just release the hand-brakes slowly. There is nothing to it.
  • micwebmicweb Member Posts: 1,617
    You said:

    Seriously? Partially engaging the clutch is not enough? This MT sounds worse and worse. I can't imagine the pain of having to engage the hand brake on an incline every time.

    We used to call that feathering the clutch, and it really wears out the clutch fast. Using the handbrake technique is much better.
  • joeluc13joeluc13 Member Posts: 50
    I think the old Toyotas have a lock-up convertor. Not sure about the new ones, but I remember my 92 Corolla doesn't move backward on uphills and forward on downhills. My 97 Civic, and all of my friends' Hondas behave the same way as your new Civic does so don't worry about it. Although this behavior can damage the transmission in some way, it's normal in a Honda. I guess that's why some cars are equipped with a lock-up convertor.
  • mrunknownmrunknown Member Posts: 15
    There's no need for gas, just bring up the clutch partially and stay on the brake. When you're ready to go, gas and clutch release. This is still bad for the clutch? Didn't really know that. I'm a new driver and that's how I was taught to do it.

    Either way I gather it doesn't work on the Civic anyway?
  • mrunknownmrunknown Member Posts: 15
    I imagine you must partially engage clutch & gas before releasing the handbrake? Else how do you prevent rollback?
  • allfiredupallfiredup Member Posts: 736
    Yes, you have to release the clutch and press the gas until you feel the car start to pull a little, then release the handbrake. Eventually, you'll learn how gradually release the clutch and gradually release the handbrake simultaneously. I learned on my '85 CRX. It is a skill that takes a bit to master, but you'll get many more miles out of your clutch. And with today's clutch prices, you want it to last every miles it can.
  • rl81rl81 Member Posts: 53
    Well there are two methods in "the book" on how to start the car in an incline:

    1. you hold the car in place with the handbrake, then when you want to start again, you'd slightly release the handbrake and at the same time release the clutch and the car will move forward without rolling backwards if you time it right.

    2. you have your right foot on the brake while you hold your car in place, the when you want to start the car again, you'll release the clutch a little bit so that it has some friction and move your right foot over to the accelerator before the car rolls back.

    Method 2 is harder to execute properly because you have to be way faster, but if you do it right, then you won't have any excessive wear on the clutch. I personally can do it without the handbrake and find method 2 more elegant, so that's what I mostly do. Executed correctly, both are fine...
  • ezpilzeezpilze Member Posts: 29
    Well, I hear alot of people telling you to use the handbrake for inclines. I live in SF so believe me, I know about inclines. The handbrake isn't a must, if you can get the timing right and practice a little foot work. Most race car drivers slant their foot so that the heel is on the brake while the other half of the foot is on the gas. If you can release the clutch at the right timing and control your foot properly you can go w/o incline. I still use the handbrake method cuz I havent perfected this method yet(I still hold the brake somewhat while gasing). The handbrake method is good, but be warned alot of people are saying "till you feel the car go" this works on light and moderately steep hills. Thats especially if you have a heavy car, but the civic shouldnt show much a problem here. The easier way is to watch your rpm will you release the clutch. Keep it at the 1000 mark, then release your e-brake, clutch, and gas it all at once like normal.
  • bigal3bigal3 Member Posts: 107
    If you are using hand-brake to stop/pause on a slope, your hand/feet coordination (to release hand-brake, engage clutch & gas pedal) timing comes quite naturally after you have prasticed for a number of times. You do not have to worry about prevent rollback.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    Yes, most Honda automatics are not going to hold you on any significant incline without your foot on the brake. It has to do with the stall speed in the torque converter, and the idle speed of the engine - the one is relatively high, the other relatively low.

    As for the lockup feature in the torque converter, of course Honda uses this, as does just about every other manufacturer these days, but the lockup feature doesn't activate until the car hits cruising speed, with the throttle lightly feathered, usually only the the top one, or sometimes two, gears. I have heard that MB's new seven-spd automatic has the lockup in the top 4 gears, but again, only at a steady throttle with a light accelerator application. In any case, this feature is completely out of the picture at idle on an incline.
  • kknowleskknowles Member Posts: 15
    On my 06 coupe 5-speed, I'm surprised and very happy to report my second tank avg. was right at 38 mpg. (380 miles, 9.98 gal at auto pump shutoff) First tank was 33.8.

    Some of this may be due to the first dealer tank being filled less, but I don't see how, because I stop at auto shutoff. The next couple of tanks will tell more.

    My commute is about 78 miles a day, w/ about 13 miles city.

    To test for the best poissible mpg, my driving was conservative -- most in-town shifts at 2500 rpm or lower, and an effort to use 5th gear at 40 mph or more.

    But this tank included my son driving for 5-6 miles and higher-rev starts and shifting, and me doing several shifts at 4,000-5,000 rpm for the first time. Acceleration is very comparable to my former V6 Eclipse, but I don't feel bad like I'm burning a ton of gas.

    I'm pretty sure the manual doesn't address break-in, but Honda Owner Link says: "Help assure your vehicle's future reliability and performance by paying extra attention to how you drive during the first 600 miles (1,000 kilometers). During this period: Avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration. Avoid hard braking. New brakes need to be broken in by moderate use for the first 200 miles (300 km)."

    Can you elaborate on the clutch being "unusual"?

    When I first test drove a sedan 5-speed, I found the clutch to be almost so light it was as if the pedal wasn't attached to anything. My kids' car is a 94 Sentra 5-speed, which lately has been requiring more clutch pressure. But I've adapted to the Honda very well and really like it.

    Regarding MT vs AT gearing, from Honda Owner Link:

    Transmissions
    5-Speed Manual Transmission Gear Ratios
    1st: 3.143
    2nd: 1.870
    3rd: 1.235
    4th: 0.949
    5th: 0.727
    Reverse: 3.308
    Final Drive: 4.290

    Compact 5-Speed Automatic Transmission Gear Ratios (available)
    1st: 2.666
    2nd: 1.534
    3rd: 1.022
    4th: 0.721
    5th: 0.525
    Reverse: 1.957
    Final Drive: 4.440
  • daveman1daveman1 Member Posts: 9
    Actually, I guess the CVT is not a 5-speed, but most Civics are not equipped with CVTs.

    Anyway, I've noticed many posts on which folks here have tried to specify their transmission type by saying, "I have a 5-speed." Huh? :confuse: Since both manual and automatic transmissions are 5-speeds, this is probably not the best way to describe the type of transmission you have - unless perhaps, you're referring to a previous-generation Civic. :-)
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,507
    normally that means they have a manual tranny. people with automatics just say the have the auto.

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    And to make it more complicated, some of the Civic sticks have 6 speeds.
  • rhahmrhahm Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I test drove a 2006 EX/AT yesterday.

    I noted the shifter was 1,2,D3?,D... and I could shift between D and D?3 without pressing the button on the shifter. Does D3 eliminate the overdrive? Could someone elaborate on the features of the automatic transmission?

    My previous compacts have been MT. They did not have a manual transmission model to test drive. Might be time for a change.

    Thanks
  • bigal3bigal3 Member Posts: 107
    Based on your gear ratios for AT vs MT....when you are driving on the highway at the same speed using 5th gear (top gear), the gear ratios for MT will be 0.727 vs. AT at 0.525. respectively.

    Crusing at the same speed, the engine for MT will need to be buzzing at 38% higher RPM than AT. (i.e. if AT is 4000 RPM, MT will need to be turning at 5,520 RPM?)
  • mrunknownmrunknown Member Posts: 15
    Can you give a better idea of how bad this is? How much inefficient does this make the MT? Does this mean the MT uses 38% more fuel than the AT at that speed?
  • bigal3bigal3 Member Posts: 107
    From what I know, "D" is described as "Drive" auto mode which allow the automatic transmission to up-shift & down-shift by itself.

    On the other hand, "D3" is not overdrive. "D3" can be described as limiting the transmission to use the 3rd gear only. You are limiting the transmission to shift to 3rd gear. It supposed to help the driver to control the car under special conditions such as...tire spinning on the snow...or prevent the car from going too fast down a steep incline, etc.
  • allfiredupallfiredup Member Posts: 736
    Only the Si has a 6-speed manual, although I wish the EX had it also. It'd be a great way to increase performance and (possibly) economy in the EX using the same engine as the DX/LX.
  • rl81rl81 Member Posts: 53
    I acutally found out that the new Euro Civic with the 1.8l engine (same as in the US) has a six-speed manual. I am wondering if this is just a cost-saving method by Honda (the Euro Civic starts at 19.000 EURO) or they will introduce the 2006 (or later???) with a six-speed manual.

    Also don't forget that the iVTEC has it's highest efficiency for a pretty high band of RPM's...so I wouldn't make assumptions like that...the manual has a great gas mileage as well...
  • bigal3bigal3 Member Posts: 107
    It is a battle between economy vs performance.

    For the same car with the same engine, MT should get better gas milage on the highway than AT. Although a 38% higher gear ratio does not equate to 38% more fuel consumption, if Honda put a over-drive gear ratio in their MT (i.e. closer to that of AT), I am sure that the MT will be able to get noticeably better gas milage on the highway than AT.

    However, instead of pushing for better gas milage on the MT, Honda is tipping the balance towards high reviving performance using higher final gear ratio in their MT.
  • brupopbrupop Member Posts: 63
    Messages #1901 and #1912 by 02accrdv6ex gave us the following information:

    "There's been a lot of talk of Speed VS RPM for the '06 Civic so I thought I'd chime in with some calculations for the MANUAL versions. Since, with a MANUAL, there is a direct mechanical connection between the engine and the wheels (when the clutch is fully let out), RPM at a given speed can be easily calculated and is a function of: final drive ratio, top gear ratio, speed and tire diameter (which is based on tire size i.e 195/65-15, 205/55-16, etc). I will not bore with the formula; it is easy to either derive or search the net to find; there is no magic involved. The '06 Civic DX/LX/EX (both sedan and 2dr) have identical final drive and transmission ratios, the only difference is tire size. The SI has different final drive and transmission ratios as well as different tires. All the data for this was gotten right off the spec pages on the HONDANEWS.COM site.

    Anyway, here is how the data plays out (allowing for a tolerance of about +/- 100-200 RPM or so):

    '06 CIVIC DX (Sedan&2DR) 5SP:
    Final drive: 4.294, 5th gear ratio: .727, Tires: 195/65-15
    RPM60: 2529 RPM70: 2951 RPM75: 3162

    '06 CIVIC LX/EX (Sedan&2DR) 5SP:
    Final drive: 4.294, 5th gear ratio: .727, Tires: 205/55-16
    RPM60: 2539 RPM70: 2963 RPM75: 3174

    '06 CIVIC SI (2DR) 6SP:
    Final drive: 4.765, 6th gear ratio: .659, Tires: 215/45-17 (all season & Summer):
    RPM60: 2575 RPM70: 3005 RPM75: 3219

    And yes, though the SI has a 6SP and has a taller ratio in 6th than the others in 5th, it also has a shorter final drive which ultimately makes for even higher revs at speed than the 5 speeds do.

    Here is part 2, the AUTOMATICs. Same thing as before, same calculations but plugged in the transmission & final drive ratios for the AUTOMATIC on the DX/LX/EX (SI n/a w/ AUTO). Remember that an AUTO has a fluid coupling unless you are cruising and the torque-converter is in full-lock mode. For our sake here, the calculations assume you are cruising and the torque-converter is in full-lock, therefore acting like a manual at that point. With that in mind:

    Anyway, here is how the data plays out (allowing for a tolerance of about +/- 100-200 RPM or so). I have included the results from the MANUAL version below the results for the AUTO for comparison:

    '06 CIVIC DX (Sedan&2DR) 5SP Auto:
    Final drive: 4.437, 5th gear ratio: .525, Tires: 195/65-15
    RPM60: 1887 RPM70: 2202 RPM75: 2359 (Auto)

    RPM60: 2529 RPM70: 2951 RPM75: 3162 Manual)

    '06 CIVIC LX/EX (Sedan&2DR) 5SP Auto:
    Final drive: 4.437, 5th gear ratio: .525, Tires: 205/55-16
    RPM60: 1895 RPM70: 2211 RPM75: 2369 (Auto)

    RPM60: 2539 RPM70: 2963 RPM75: 3174 (Manual)

    For anyone who owns/has driven these, are these at least in the ballpark?
    The RPMs for the AUTO are close, but a little lower, than my '02 V6 EX Coupe (which is a 4sp auto). "

    This was such a wealth of detailed information I thought it well worth repeating. Thanks 02accrdv6ex
  • riverrat2riverrat2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 LX Sedan and have noticed the driver's door is harder to close than I think it should be. With a "normal" amount of effort many times it will not completely latch. I test drove a different sedan and a coupe and noticed the same thing, but it was so minor I didn't even mention it to the salesperson. Maybe it's my imagination. Has anyone else noticed this?
  • inkyofokinkyofok Member Posts: 62
    MPG tank one was 39.5 tank two was 39.9. Now my driving is unusual in a 24 mile commute along the Arkansas River (flat) all expressway 60-65 mph--very little in the way of city driving. The automatic accelerates nicely and works the 1.8 liters well -- the day of the manual is over for most cars.
    The mpg and short gearing in TSX, Civic just makes no sense. I would gladly pay $100 more for a six speed with an actual OD with 5th gear the high rpm, hey I am cool cruising gear.

    This car is very solid and upscale for the money. I repeat that from last time.
    I originally had a manual in mind but the rpm figures are horrid. I now see the same idiocy in the new Lexus IS 250 manual-much lower than the automatic.

    I digress, the civic is cool. Compared to my once 98 civic manual the new one is a bargain and much more classy ride.

    I read temple vtecs little engine test and noticed the knocking they refer to in this engine. I have filled up with premium to conduct a seat of the pants mpg test and feel test. Gas went down to $2.42 premium so hey why not try it out.

    Still disappointed in cornering abilility on uneven pavement, it gets upset much easier than I expected.
  • rl81rl81 Member Posts: 53
    This was great info brupop! Here's another consideration: the new iVTEC is speed-controlled as well as RPM controlled. So the engine will set itself to it's most economic setting when you are cruising on the highway. Also don't forget that you don't have to shift back from fifth gear necessarily. An automatic that is that low will have to shift back when you accelerate to pass another car. Knowing me, it would shift back a lot. I just like the control of the manual way better.
  • davidg3davidg3 Member Posts: 16
    I drive about 26,000 miles a year and intend to Lease. I was given a price of $450 per month (nothing down but the usual) for 36 months on a 2006 SI. Reasonable?

    Here is how I figured it. $450 a month is $16,200 for the 3 years. The MSRP is about 22,500 with destination. Make it $23,000 for benefit of the doubt. $16,200 is 70% of the value of the automobile. A 2002 SI with 80,000 in good condition would sell from the dealer at (blue book) $11,500. Assuming the new SI wouldn't sell for less in 3 years, that would value the new car close to $27,700. a $4700 mark up. I said no thank you. I am waiting to see if there is a response. What do others think?

    David
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Is the effort to close the door easier when another door or a window is open? If so it's probably just air pressure making the door hard to close. This is typical on modern cars with tight door seals. I noticed the same thing on my two Elantras, which have triple door seals (maybe the Civic has those too?). It was odd at first, compared to my old car with regular door seals, but I got used to it quickly and I do appreciate the sound deadening effect the tight door seals have.
  • allfiredupallfiredup Member Posts: 736
    For someone who drives 26,000 miles a year, leasing seems like a bad idea. Leasing makes much more sense for under 15k a year drivers. You're going to pay huge amounts of mileage penalties.

    Why not just buy it? The monthly payment on $22,000 at around 7% interest for 60 months would only be about $435. At the three year mark (length of the lease) you'd be able to sell the car with around 80k miles for a significant amount more than you owe.

    Just for comparison sake, an '03 Civic Si with 80k miles would currently be worth about $10,500 which is 55% of original price. Using those numbers, at the three year mark, your Si would be worth about $12,100 and your loan payoff would be $9,700. You'd make money instead of owing at the end of a lease.

    Just some food for thought. Hope it helps.
  • joeluc13joeluc13 Member Posts: 50
    I guess it's because of the lighter design. I noticed it on my RSX as well. The door doesn't close unless you put some extra effort doing it. My 97 Civic's doors are kinda heavy and I could just l could give it a light push and it would close quickly. I guess the doors on the new Hondas/Acuras are now lighter, or it could be that they have better door rubber gaskets that seal better but makes you put in more force just to close it. I could be wrong but it's what I've noticed so far.
  • jetdrivenjetdriven Member Posts: 18
    As an owner of a 2001 civic ex I went in and test drove a 2006 civic EX automatic sedan. Althought the styling is much nicer, and the interior is significantly larger the car seems to drive the same (nervous when pushed moderately and undertired).

    Also, even though the car has more horsepower it doesnt feel any faster than my 01 or even a 1998 lx civic. half throttle or flooring it below 4,000 RPM makes little difference. Also, the wide spacing of the gears in the automatic leaves the car gasping right after it shifts.

    Factor in the 20,000 sticker and the fact my friend just bought an 04 EX accord v-6 sedan for 22,900 I decided to pass on the deal. Dealers here in Phoenix are contracting buyers at 21,500 on these new civics and getting it.
  • sr45sr45 Member Posts: 144
    All this information about fluid coupling, torque-converter is in full-lock mode, etc, etc is useless to me and the vast majority of drivers...... :confuse:

    All I/We want to know is, if the car looks good inside and out, its comfortable, has good gas mileage, has enough power to pass another vehicle, and is reliability, PERIOD.... ;)
  • andysandiegoandysandiego Member Posts: 54
    This is really a message for the moderator:

    Would you please start a separate forum for the 2006 Civic Si, and include the coupe?

    There is so much interest in the new Civic sedan that no one wants to talk about the fabulous new Si ~~~ Also I believe a poor man's sporty car can be made with the new coupe.

    For years I drove an old (1967) Porsche 912, putting down about 85 horsepower at the rear wheels and kept up quite well with much newer more powerful Porsches on mountain roads. I had upgraded my suspension and tires, but my point is that power isn't everything beyond straight line performance, and I think it would be fun to put some Falken Azenis tires on a new 5-speed LX Civic coupe, and GO. The new coupe is 3 inches lower than the sedan so it should look sportier.
    :P
  • mrunknownmrunknown Member Posts: 15
    Hi, my dealer is trying to sell me the Karr Security EX-I upgrade for factory security systems. They tell me they're paying $405 for it and selling it to me for $350, all included (installation, taxes). Does anyone know anything about this? Apparently it makes the car near impossible to hot-wire and it comes with a 3 year new car replacement guarantee.

    Is this a good deal?

    Current Features
    of Your Factory System:

    Keyless Entry
    Panic Remote
    Flashing Parking Lights
    LED Indicator
    Dome Light Illumination
    Electric Entry Points Protected

    Features Added Upon Upgrade

    Electronic shock sensor
    Factory alarm trigger on shock violation
    $2,000 1 yr. deductible reimbursement guarantee.
    3 yr. New car replacement guarantee.

    (from here)

    Thanks.
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