BMW M3 Maintenance and Repair

gmonkies · February 2008

Okay, I know I'm not an expert mechanic but I didn't realized I can be that bad of a nebie with my M3. I have obtain all the expensive parts to change my power steering lines, $565 dollars worth of 3 lines, reservior and washers. But I'm stuck on how do I get the jack stand underneath my car. They leave no room for weight bearing under the sideskirt to put a jackstand next to the jack. And unlike my hondas, I can't figure out if there is a weight bearing location in front of the radiator without tearing the bumper and all the plastics off. I know the lower control arms bolt to the frame so around that area can be a possible jack location to allow 4 points under the side skirt for jackstand placement. But the end of the lower control arm is covered by a metal plate which I don't think is thick enough to bear weight. I can't believe I'm stuck on the very first basic before a job starts. How do you guys do it???????

Also, as I was flying back to Ca the other night, I realize the Delta skymall catalog has an oil change machine for sale. It's a machine that sucks the oil out from the dip stick hole. They claims Mercedes dealer change oil the same way. Has anyone else seen it or used it? Does Mercedes really change oil that way with a machine? It sure would make life easier and cleaner. But can it really get rid of all the old oil and gunk as good as the traditional drain from the oil pan plug bolt?

roadburner · March 2008

How do you guys do it???????

Here is one method.

Has anyone else seen it or used it?

I use this extractor.

Does Mercedes really change oil that way with a machine?

Yes.

But can it really get rid of all the old oil and gunk as good as the traditional drain from the oil pan plug bolt?

It's worked well for me as well as other BMW owners I know. I don't use it all that much as I can reach the drain plug on my E36 3er, X3, and Wrangler without jacking them up. That said, it was a lifesaver on my wife's E39 5er.

gmonkies · March 2008

Thank you again for your advice.

roadburner · March 2008

I'm happy to help. Let me know if you have any more questions.

202 · March 2008

My window at times does not want to come up straight. I've fixed, adjusted and re-aligned but it comes back. The back end wants to lead the way. Bent parts? Bad motor? Worn sliders?

A little help here. Thanks.

straightshot1 · March 2008

Hey everybody! Great forum going on here. I have a 2002 e46 M3 with about 76k. Very rarely when i hit a bump the power dies, car shuts down and immediatly turns back on. It's such a rare occuance yet leaves me thinking about selling and saving for an upgrade. The previous owner had done the stereo wiring which is suspect. Also when i put in reverse the passanger sideview mirror moves facedown umungst other subtle glitch's. Electrical work on an M3 scares this novice mechanic. Any suggestions from you pro's out there?

kyfdx · March 2008

The mirror is supposed to do that... If you want it to stop, leave the power mirror selection button in the passenger position and that will disable it.

The big bump thing? Beats me, but it sounds like a loose battery cable..

straightshot1 · March 2008

haha thanks kyfdx...that would explain the ease of parallel parking!

gmonkies · May 2008

Does anyone knows how to reset the ecu for my 2001 m3 after my oil change?
I remember reading somewhere that I can manually reset without needing a device. But I can't find that post now. Any suggestions will e greatly appreciated.

BTW, does anyone know a website that I can find out bmw club event in southern california? Thanks!

roadburner · May 2008

Does anyone knows how to reset the ecu for my 2001 m3 after my oil change?
I remember reading somewhere that I can manually reset without needing a device. But I can't find that post now. Any suggestions will e greatly appreciated.

1. Key in 0 or off position.

2. Press and hold odometer button and turn key to 1 or acc. position.

3. Keep button pressed until any of the following words appear in display: "oil service" or "inspection", with "reset" or "re".

4. Press and hold button again until "reset" or "re" flash. If there is no "flash", minimum consumption value has not been met.

5. While display is flashing, press button briefly to reset service interval indicator. After display has shown new interval, the following will appear in display for approx. 2 seconds:"END SIA"

BTW, does anyone know a website that I can find out bmw club event in southern california? Thanks!

Perhaps the BMW CAR Club of America website?

gmonkies · May 2008

Thank You!!!

drummer02 · May 2008

I'm not sure if this topic has been posted yet but this seems like a pretty knowledgable audience.

Basically, I'm in the market for a real car after spending way too many years with a Honda. The 4 cars I am currently interested in from most to least are: E46, E36, Audi S4, Audi A4. Since this is a BMW post, my main questions pertain to the 36 and 46, but if anyone has any insight into the Audis I'd be interested as well. Since I'm finishing up grad school, my main concern is RELIABLE speed. I've heard some bad things about the reliability of Audis...

Most likely, I'd like to purchase a black, manual coupe (36/46) for around $25,000 or less. I know I'm pushing it with the E46, but I have found some E46 coupes hovering around 60k miles. Right now there is an E36 with 35K for under $23,000 in my area. I know the differences in speed/power between the two models, but how about reliability and maintenance?

Since I don't know as much about M3s, what is a reasonable amount of mileage I should consider? My plan is to wait it out until until I find a deal, then have the car inspected by a BMW mechanic. Obviously, that mechanic will know what to look for, but I would like to have an idea also. What are some common problems with the two models that I should consider? I know I want to look at maintenance records (ie- how often brake fluid etc.) My last question...what is to be expected each year for maintenance? I understand that BMW parts are very expensive, as is service at a BMW dealership. Is it unsafe to use non-BMW parts? Does anyone use a non-BMW mechanic? I have a very good mechanic, but working on a Honda is like fixing a simple lawn mower!

Thanks a lot for any help. I'm sure topics like mine have been posted many times before, but I have a 14 credit graduate school summer ahead and not much time. If anyone has any comprehensive M3 websites to suggest that would be helpful too. Given my financial situation, which of the 4 cars would you buy?

gmonkies · May 2008

I'm no expert with my E46 M3 that I just got 4 months ago but I'm loving IT.
I had been modifying honda/acura for over 10 years. I've owned a total of 8 of them from OBDO and OBD1 and I'm still not done playing with the 4 that I still have :-)

But back to the M3. I got my 2001, 6 speed, with 74K for $18,100
I took it to the dealer for a complete check with compression test added to make sure engine is still strong before I purchased it. I've found out a couple of things that needs to be changed which is pretty much maintenance stuff when the car gets to ~ 80K All the stuff that needs to be changed cause me about ~$ 4,000 from the dealer. I'm slowly changing it myself with the help of advice from guys here and Save about $1000 so far. Thanks.Guys!!!

You can also check BMWforum.com is what I've been told

Where are you located BTW?

roadburner · May 2008

My last question...what is to be expected each year for maintenance? I understand that BMW parts are very expensive, as is service at a BMW dealership. Is it unsafe to use non-BMW parts? Does anyone use a non-BMW mechanic? I have a very good mechanic, but working on a Honda is like fixing a simple lawn mower!

I'd set aside $50-$75 per month for maintenance of an E36 M3(including tires). The cars are pretty simple to keep running. Oil changes are a dead easy DIY task-$50 for oil and filter. At @60K I'd replace the water pump and thermostat, and the radiator at 100K. Join BMW CCA and find a good independent BMW tech or a reasonable dealer. There are several around, if you know where to look. Me, I'm in the process of dumping a 2007 Mazdaspeed3- I'll replace it with either an E36 or E46 M3. Right now I'm leaning toward an E36 as it is relatively cheap and easy run as well as to add a few more horses(it will be my primary track toy). Plus, I love Dakar Yellow...

jman6 · May 2008

Do any of you know how difficult it would be to repace an AC Blower motor? the dealership is charging me over 700 dollars and was wondering how hard it would be to replace myself?

roadburner · June 2008

A decent DIY pictoral on E46 blower motor replacement can be found here. You should probably read the whole thread while you are at it. It's a fiddly and agravating job, but if you have decent tools and reasonable DIY skills you can save yourself a fair amount of money.

rpr · June 2008

I have a 98 M3 and need new tires. I have Yokohama AVS ES 100 245/40 ZR17 91W and am looking for something different. Good performance tires but I only got 12K miles out of them. Does anyone have a recommendation? I looking for a good performance tire with a little better wear.

roadburner · June 2008

I've had good luck with various iterations of the Kumho Ecsta. I can usually get 20K out of them.

Mr_Shiftright · June 2008

That's a fairly low-priced tire though isn't it?

roadburner · June 2008

Yes, but they usually do well in the Tire Rack comparison tests as well as on the street/track. Tire Rack even ranks the MX one category higher than the ES100 tire that the OP currently runs. In any case, I suspect that fewer than one in ten driving enthusiasts could tell the difference between the Kumho Ecsta MX and a tire such as the RE 050A on the street.

gmonkies · June 2008

when you decide on which tire you want, I might be able to ship it to you at a better price then tire rack depending on where you are located. I can definitely beat their price on tire / wheel package.

gmonkies · June 2008

my 01 m3 is 77K now, unless I didn't pay attention, my transimssion end did not make a "klunk" noise as frequent when I shift on normal driving. The car never got a chance to be on the track yet since I got it 4 months ago so it's hasn't been shift hard at all. The dealer inspection (before I bought it) picked up on my rear lower control arm bushing needing a replacement in a year but found nothing on tranny. Is that "klunk" noise common? or is the drvie shaft lost or something? what should I look for when I'm underneath the car to make sure everything is tight?
:confuse:

gmonkies · August 2008

i got a friend with a 2000 540i sport with electronic control suspension front and rear. I know this is a m3 forum but I'm hoping someone will have an answer.

he needs new shock and was wondering if he can save some money and use "Gabriel" suspension from autozone. Is alot cheaper than OE from dealer and is made for the 540 according to autozone. the only problem is that it is without the electronic control. if it will work, will the fitment be the same as OE without modification needed? or should he avoid possible headache and just pay the money for the OE? any insight will be appreciated.

Mr_Shiftright · August 2008

Permit me to smack my forehead.

No, please tell him/her not to do that. (see link I provided)

If I were him/her, I'd contact Bilstein and ask them what package they have to solve this problem.

I understand that replacing these shocks is very expensive, but that's a lot better than having a car that will be (IMO) significantly degraded with the wrong shocks on it.

Bilstein Corp

Hope this helps. It might be cheaper than the dealer, too.

gmonkies · August 2008

Yeh,

i did speak to Bilstein already because autozone gave Bilstein as another option. According to autozone, their system sho electronic control for the rear only and not the front which didn't make sense. I called Bilstein and gave them autozone's part # and Bilstein said neither the front nor the the rear part # can be used for electronic control and they have had problem trying to make something that will work so they told me to go use OE from dealer. My friend now use the 540 as a grocery getter and was hoping he can save money using aftermarket without putting the car at risk on highway driving in normal condition.

but you confirm my thought that he should just use OE. Thanks!

kyfdx · August 2008

I don't want to plug these guys, but if there is an after-market solution, they will know about it.. They might know of a specific product use that even the manufacturers don't know about..

But, I'm betting OEM is the only way, as well....

Mr_Shiftright · August 2008

I'm just trying to get my head around putting an entry-level shock absorber on such a high performance sedan. I would think the shocks would turn to mush if you drove the car in any kind of spirited fashion.

But I also understand that the OE solution from the dealer is murderously expensive.

gmonkies · August 2008

yeh
good thing for him i get 20% discount from the dealer through my shop but is still 1/3 more than bilstein and almost 3 times as much from gabriel as my cost from autozone

well, safety is definitely more important than a couple of hunder bucks for him and other drivers on the highway.

thank you all for your feedbacks to confirm my thought. is just like racing, sometime you want to try to get away with it to strecth the dollar when you can. but sometime is not worth losing a race or worse by getting cheap parts!!!! experienced that too many times :-P

Mr_Shiftright · August 2008

What DOES a dealer charge for 4 shocks w/ the self-level system in place?

I've heard some really scary numbers here. We are talking thousands of dollars, right?

roadburner · August 2008

I've heard some really scary numbers here. We are talking thousands of dollars, right?

$831 each for the front and $542 each for the rear. $2746 for all four. My E24 M6 had the self-leveling rear shocks and it was a simple matter to switch over to regular Bilsteins if you didn't want to pay to fix whatever failed. I don't see why you couldn't simply replace the EDC shocks with Bilstein Sport or BMW M Sport dampers. As for bargain shocks, I have a friend who fitted Monroe shocks to his E39 wagon. He's a fairly hard-core enthusiast and he was pleased with the results(the Monroes are made in Europe, FWIW).

Mr_Shiftright · August 2008

Well that's what I thought, too, so I sent him over to Bilstein, but they seem to be quibbling about this conversion. I really don't know myself, never tried it, but I'm sure some detective work could solve this problem. SOMEONE out there has done this already, i'm sure, and can give feedback.

Well anyway, thanks for that. We seem to be drifting out of M3 territory, so maybe we should get back on topic, unless this also applies to M3 cars. ??

rroscher · October 2008

my top stops half way up...It will go back down but won't go all the way up. it's Sunday so I thought I might throw this out for a quick solution!

Thanks,

Rroscher

Mr_Shiftright · October 2008

Sounds like the hydraulic unit might be bad. I believe you can peak at it and look for leaks by removing the left side trim in the trunk. It's under the NAV computer and the radio receiver. If there's no leak I guess you have to bring it in and have it tested.

So can you gently urge it upwards with your hand? If it works with hand-assist, I'd say it's probably hydraulic. If it just jams up there, maybe there's a busted arm or bad bushing in the mechanicals.

rroscher · October 2008

Thanks! I tried a little more than gentle urge to no avail...It stops at the exact same spot every time, very strange...but it will go back down w/o any trouble. Could not find anything blocking it.

Mr_Shiftright · October 2008

Okay. Does the motor keep humming or does it abruptly stop?

rroscher · October 2008

Keeps humming...

Mr_Shiftright · October 2008

Okay I'm thinking loss of hydraulic pressure. Just a guess because we don't seem to have a jam (mechanical) and the motor is working (electrical) so by elimination....?

You might check for a hydraulic leak, as that could damage the upholstery or paint surfaces back there.

rroscher · October 2008

No leaks!

Mr_Shiftright · October 2008

gotta be the pump. Internal pressure loss?

rroscher · October 2008

No pressure loss...Cannot figure this one out!

Mr_Shiftright · October 2008

I don't know the specs for pressure but I'd imagine from the symptoms you describe that it's an internal leak in the hydraulic pump---since the top works part way and the electrical motor is working, hence top control module sending the right signals.

I believe there are trouble codes that can be read on this car to help with diagnosis on the top mechanism.

gmonkies · October 2008

HI

Just need to know what is the right tool to use for the drain plug. The last time/1st time I change the oil, i used a hex key to remove and tighten the drain plug. Since there was no way I can use the torque wrench, I hand tighen the drain plug (using new washer) with the hex key as tight as I can without stripping it. After a couple of months, I saw oil leak from the plug. I realized that the drain plug looks like it can be torqued with a torx set even though the hex key works.

Now is time for another oil change, I used the torx to remove it but it started to slip. To prevent any damamge with a stuck drain plug that will require to be tapped out, I decided to leave it alone until I figure out the right tool.

If it does use a torx, what size am I suupose to use? It was either T40 or T45 that had the best fit but still slips. Or am I suppose to get a hex key to remove and use a hex key end that can go on my torque wrench to tighten down properly for seal.

Thanks!

gmonkies · January 2009

does anyone have DIY direction and diagram/photo on the air pump/ valve and where it is located?

Bentley manual shows nothing that I can find on that and i can't seem to find anything detail on other forum, aside from the fact that peole claim is a easy easy diy.

The dealer quoted a price of $1000 for parts and labor

any help will be appreciated

Mr_Shiftright · January 2009

Gimme your specs again, year, model, engine, blah blah and the exact part you are replacing and I'll try to look up DIY info for you and post it here:

gmonkies · January 2009

actually, i google image for the air pump and found a link that shows diy for e 36

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=92029

i have a 01 m3, will so will the e36 be similar to e 46?

Mr_Shiftright · January 2009

Perhaps this is of interest?

GROUP 12
Engine Electrical Systems

Bulletin Number
12 04 00

Woodcliff Lake, NJ
July 2000
Service Engineering

SUBJECT:
Secondary Air System Faults

MODEL:
All models with M52 and S52 engine
All models with M44 engine produced as of 1/97
All models with M62 engine produced as of 9/98
All models with M73 engine

SITUATION:
Customer complains that the "Check Engine" lamp is illuminated and the following fault is set in the Engine Control Module (ECM/DME):

M52, S52 Engine:
Fault code 245 (F5 hex) - Secondary air injection, bank 1
Fault Code 246 (F6 hex) - Secondary air injection, bank 2

M62 Engine
Fault code 80 - Secondary air injection, bank 1
Fault Code 81 - Secondary air injection, bank 2

M44 & M73 Engine

Fault Code 80 - Secondary air injection system
CAUSE:
Failure within the secondary air injection system.

PROCEDURE:

The following diagnostic tips / steps should be followed if the above customer complaint is received:
1. For E36 vehicles equipped with M52 engine prod. 10/95 - 2/96 also refer to S.I. 12 04 96 regarding Recall Campaign No. 96E-A01.

2. Refer to the OBD II training manual for illustrations and explanation of system operation.

3. Perform test modules/component activation of secondary air system located in the "Service Functions" section using DIS/MoDiC.

4. Check operation of secondary air pump using instructions provided in DIS/MoDiC.

5. If pump is not operating correctly check air pump relay. For vehicles with M52 engine a modified relay was introduced into production P/N 12 63 1 742 690.

6. If the relay is operating correctly and the electrical connections/wiring to the pump are OK, check the condition of the pump.

7. If the air pump is seized it must be replaced.

Important note :If the pump is seized as a result of moisture (water in pump), an improperly operating non-return valve is the cause. The non-return valve may stick open and allow exhaust gases to condense within the air pump housing leading to a failure of the pump.

Non-return valve sealing / leakage check:

The non-return valve must be checked as follows any time a seized secondary air pump has been replaced due to moisture.

Disconnect the air pump feed line/hose at the non-return valve (line from the secondary air pump to the non-return valve).

Visually inspect the non-return valve fitting internally for carbon type contamination. (Twisting the corner of a clean shop rag into the valve fitting as shown will assist with this check.)

If no carbon type deposits are found on the rag, this indicates that the non-return valve is sealing correctly and does not need to be replaced.

If carbon type deposits are found on the rag, the non-return valve is not sealing correctly and must be replaced.
Note :A non-return valve which is not sealing correctly will cause damage to the secondary air pump as described above.

8. Check also for cracked vacuum lines going to the non-return valve.

-- For vehicles with M44 engine the vacuum line P/N 11 73 7 501 180 going to the non-return valve has been improved since 11/98.

-- For E46 323i/iA and 328i/iA vehicles produced 4/98 - 7/98 see S.I. number 12 04 98 regarding the vacuum hose to the secondary air non-return valve service action.

gmonkies · January 2009

there's no doubt bmw is an amazing performance machine combine with comfort in a reasonable price. But I'm starting to wonder if the complain from others that is not as relaible with multiple electrical/mechanical issue is really true

Thanks for the info

if you ever finds any DIY diagram or photos of the air pump or relay, I would appreciated.

jd1971 · January 2009

found this old thread as I am looking at purchasing m3. what is the problem with titles from NH? just curious as I am in new england

Mr_Shiftright · January 2009

Oh some states in the past developed a bad reputation for being very loose with their title requirements, allowing out-of-staters to "launder" salvage titles for real ones.

I really don't know if these loopholes have been corrected or not. I'm just so used to being on alert with titles from New Hampshire and Alabama that I remain on high alert when I come across one.

Didn't mean to alarm you! Best thing for you might be something like

Auto Check

nickyc1974 · January 2009

I am thinking about buying a 2005 BMW M3 fully loaded with navigation with 48,100 miles. I was wondering if there are any known reported repair problems with this vehicle? The 2008 Consumer Reports Buying Guide saids it is a used vevicle that should be avoided. It reports transmission, electrical, power and suspension problems, but most of my internet research for the most part does not state anything like this.

BMW M3 Maintenance and Repair

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