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BMW M3 Maintenance and Repair

245

Comments

  • alibajalajaulaalibajalajaula Member Posts: 89
    I got a flat last week on the RR of my 06'ZCP and the BMW Roadside will indeed provide you with a free tow only to the closest BMW dealer. They will not assist with the mobility kit because since M3s have no spare, they can only flatbed you. In my case, even in the center of Houston, they said 1 hour to get to me. They called me half-and-hour later and restated 45 minutes.By then my afternoon was in jeopardy of being shot, :( so I just followed the instructions with the M Mobility Kit air compressor and goo can, filled the tire back and hauled [non-permissible content removed] to Discount Tire, where I had purchased as soon as I bought the car the Road Hazard warranty. They inspected the tire, found the screw, but refrained to repair it because it was too close to the edge.They went ahead and special ordered a 255/35ZR19 Michelin Pilot Sport (darn, this is the 3rd time the right/passenger rear tire goes on me -twice on my previous ZHP and now on my ZCP). In the meantime, I 've been driving with my M-Mobility kit repaired tire, holding good pressure (35 psi on rears), and I have even take it to 110 mph (just a couple of days yesterday) :) .That's making me wonder if I shouldn't go ahead and keep it as spare. But I think I'll just follow the course of events, and get my brand new tire, (I already bought the M goo cannister, which is expendable -gotta have it ready for the next time) and kiss the repaired one goodbye. Someone told me the fix-a-flat repaired tire has a limited life, until the goo degenerates and you can never be sure, according to Murphy's law it will be flat/no good the day you actually need it. Besides, they need to use that rim where the air pressure monitor is currently installed (whoa Nelly, guess I read the M3 tire pressure monitoring system measures reduce circumference speed to detect loss of pressure, no sensors, anybody knows?), plus, the 19" rear, wider tire may not fit on the front wheel well if it were to be used there. I used to have the compact 17" spare on my previous ZHP (18"), same as LeatherZ sells. I only used it once, the original BMW jack is a POS, unstable as hell, had to borrow a Mazda scissors jack. So, I'm not thrilled with the prospect of changing tires. Mobility kit? It worked for me, your back in business (saves a ton of time) and if I would have not had the road hazard warranty, I now think I would have kept my repaired tire, until proved wrong. Hate to keep killing our planet with more junk to the backfills...so any thoughts on keeping the repaired tire for spare yeah or nein? :confuse:
  • msalazarmsalazar Member Posts: 1
    I purchased my bmw new. I had my windows tinted and since that time I have had squeaky windows. If I lower my windows a little bit the noise goes away. The dealership tells me the noise is coming from the tint. Has anyone else encountered this problem if so please let me know. I am thinking about removing the tint to see if the noise goes away.
  • perunestperunest Member Posts: 42
    People who car place ads frequently aren't knowledgeable about cars and inadvertantly advertise incorrect items. This may in fact not be an M3 at all. I once responded to a dealer's add on Autotrader.com, which advertised a V6 3 series BMW. I congratulated them on havingthe only one ever made.
    Incidentally, BMW cars are Bimmers, not Beemers. Beemers are motorcycles. Most people get this wrong, but if you're into BMWs, you mightas well get it right. There is a BMW car magazine named Bimmer (not Beemer). Also, the bylaws of the BMWCCA clearly state that BMWs are Bimmers. Bavarian Autosports sells T-shirts that have pictures of a BMW motocycle and a BMW car on the front with the words Beemer and Bimmer under the respective pictures. Under that are the words "Any questions?".
  • jjohnjohnjjohnjohn Member Posts: 24
    I have a 2004 M3 SMG w/ only 13,000 miles. I don't drive it everyday. Does anyone know why my battery keeps draining so drastically when it is not driven for a few (4-5)days? I don't know of any other car that the battery drains so quickly. I had to get the car jumped multiple times to start. When I took it to the shop for a new battery. They say the battery is good?!?! How can the battery be 'good' if it keeps draining on its own? Thanks.
  • jmarounjmaroun Member Posts: 151
    jjohnjohn,

    Hmm, you've got an electrical problem.

    If the battery is indeed not leaky, there may be a constant current drainage from your battery when your car is off due to a faulty switch or some unknown path to ground.
    If no leakage exists, it may be that your alternator is not fully charging up your battery.

    I'm not a mechanic but, I'd check all three of the following: check the battery first (you say you already did this), check the alternator/battery charge-up, and also check if significant leakage exists when car is off even if alternator found to be bad..may also have a short which will make your alternator work harder all the time.

    Funny, I thought that's what computer monitoring systems were for. All of these faults are detectable and should be relayed to you via computer. For 60k car..I would expect this.

    Taking it to a dealer is probably your best bet.

    my 2 cent

    Joseph
    San Diego
  • txcheeseheadtxcheesehead Member Posts: 6
    Hi everyone,
    I am looking to purchase a used '98 or '99 M3 convertible. Can anyone give me some advice on what scheduled maintenance should have been done or what mechanical (or other) issues to watch out for? The cars in my price range have from 90,000 to 129,000 miles on them. Is there a need to have the timing belt changed at a particular interval, or the water pump or other major maintenance interval near those miles?

    I'm enthusiastic about the car, but do not have any BMW ownership experience.

    Thanks in advance for any help you can provide!

    --Rob
  • frankmeisterfrankmeister Member Posts: 1
    My 98 M3 sedan has no variable intermittent wiper. It goes slow (every 10 secs), medium, and fast. BMW says that model/year did not have variable intermittent wipers. Hard to believe when my 85 Toyota had it. What say ye? Any thoughts. Thanks, Frank
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,288
    My 98 M3 sedan has no variable intermittent wiper. It goes slow (every 10 secs), medium, and fast. BMW says that model/year did not have variable intermittent wipers.

    They are correct.

    Hard to believe when my 85 Toyota had it. What say ye? Any thoughts.

    I've owned a couple of e36 3ers and I never gave the three speed wipers a second thought. From my perspective, the only thing that can ruin an E36 M3 is an automatic transmission ;) The E46 3ers do have variable intermittent wipers, so you could always trade up. OTOH, I'm sure you can find more than a few 1985 Toyota owners who would be eager to swap you even for your M3 :P

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • whitem3whitem3 Member Posts: 12
    I have a 95 M3 (white-the finest color). I have owned it for 9 of it's 12 years, and I am still excited every spring when I take it out of storage. It has not had much maintenance, other than oil changes. It was carefully checked by a good(but not BMW) mechanic, who found it to be still excellent at 83,000 miles. I just had the transmission fluid changed. What maintenance should it be getting beyond oil changes? Somebody mentioned coolant, and brake fluid.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,288
    Change the coolant(using BMW coolant ONLY) every three years.
    Change brake fluid every two years using a quality DOT4 such as ATE Super Blue Racing. Flush it every year if you track it.
    Manual gearbox and final drive should get changed at @60,000 mile intervals(every second Inspection II). I'd suggest a quality synthetic Dexron II ATF for the gearbox, and a good synthetic 75W-140 GL-5 gear oil for the final drive. I use Royal Purple, but Amsoil, Mobil 1, Redline, and Valvoline make suitable equivalents. Again, I'd halve the frequency if I used the car at HPDEs.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • whitem3whitem3 Member Posts: 12
    Thank you so much. How about plugs and belts? Would you replace the water pump at this point?
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,288
    How about plugs and belts?

    The plugs get changed at the Inspection II. If the belts have never been changed I'd do it now. Also check the belt idler and tensioner pulleys. If any of them are noisy or wobbly they need to be replaced.

    Would you replace the water pump at this point?

    In my experience the lifespan of BMW six cylinder water pumps is 60000-100000 miles. It couldn't hurt to change it, it's a fairly simple procedure. Some vendors are selling a replacement pump which is supposedly much more efficient and durable, but the long-term data isn't in yet. It's expensive- around $195 as compared with $70-$80 for an OEM pump.
    I'd also think about replacing the radiator; the OEM units have a bad habit of failing at the most inconvenient times. If you plan on keeping the car I'd recommend installing Zionsville Autosport's Alloy Radiator with Hi-Po Kit.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • whitem3whitem3 Member Posts: 12
    Thank you so much-Roadburner. I will try not to ask too much more. I don't live close to a BMW dealer, so have not done the scheduled maintenance. What plugs do you recommend? Anything else you can think of? I do intend to hang on to this car for years yet.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,288
    I will try not to ask too much more

    Ask away, I'm happy to help.

    What plugs do you recommend?

    The BMW ETK(parts CD) calls for either a Bosch F7 LDCR or a NGK BKR 6 EK.

    Anything else you can think of?

    You might want to pick up the E36 Bentley service manual- on either paper or CD. You should also check out this E36 DIY page.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • whitem3whitem3 Member Posts: 12
    You have given me a wealth of valuable advice. I am struggling a little with replacing the radiator, but everything else sounds like reasonable insurance that my car will not suddenly have a disaster while traveling.
  • whitem3whitem3 Member Posts: 12
    95 M3-83,000 miles. Should the timing chains be replaced at some point? How about a 92 degree thermostat? When replacing the belts, should the pulleys and tensioners be replaced? Thank you very much-whitem3 (Steve)
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,288
    Should the timing chains be replaced at some point?

    Probably not for at least 150K more miles.
    When replacing the belts, should the pulleys and tensioners be replaced?

    It wouldn't hurt to replace the tensioner/idler pulleys; they usually begin to fail in the 100K-130K range. If one does let go it can be a real pain- ask me how I know...

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • bornoborno Member Posts: 77
    Have 01 M3cic w/49K, being doing oil changes myself, and had dealer change coolant and break fluid recently, what else should be done now, or in near future...thanks in advance!, breaks have minor occasional squeak, but no warning lights??

    PS. what an amazing car
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,288
    what else should be done now, or in near future

    Valve clearances should be checked at every Inspection I and II. I'd also change the fuel filter at every Inspection II.

    breaks have minor occasional squeak

    That's not too unusual. Try braking harder and see if the noise goes away.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • whitem3whitem3 Member Posts: 12
    I found a few more things to bother you about. I have spent enough for now-following almost all of your suggestions. BUT-down the road I was wondering about other issues like shocks, struts, u-joints, front wheel bearings. What else will be failing between 83,00 and 100,000 miles? AND-what exactly are you?-a mechanic, an enthusiast, a racer-what? You don't have to answer, of course. Thanks again-Steve
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,288
    I was wondering about other issues like shocks, struts, u-joints, front wheel bearings.

    Shocks, struts, and wheel bearings often last over 100,000 miles. U joints rarely fail on a stock M3, but I would inspect the driveshaft center bearing and guibo at every oil change. If you start hearing a thumping noise from the rear of the car it usually means that the rear shock mounts(RSMs) are toast. There are lots of replacement options but I prefer the Meyle HD RSM which can be found at UUC Motorwerks.

    AND-what exactly are you?-a mechanic, an enthusiast, a racer-what?

    I'm just an enthusiast/home mechanic who has owned and wrenched on BMWs since 1983.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • whitem3whitem3 Member Posts: 12
    Wow! You are just FULL of pearls-as long as I ask the right questions! What have I forgotten to ask? What do you drive now? Never even thought about RSMs!
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,288
    What have I forgotten to ask?

    Well, this is a helpful document.

    What do you drive now?

    1995 318ti Club Sport(original owner)
    2004 X3 2.5(wife's car)
    1999 Wrangler Sahara
    1996 Triumph Speed Triple(when I want to go REALLY fast)

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • whitem3whitem3 Member Posts: 12
    What's a Speed Triple? I spent the day on my BMW K1200 LTC.
  • whitem3whitem3 Member Posts: 12
    I looked it up-WOW! What a bike!!! Steve
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,288
    Thanks! There are a few pictures of mine on my CarSpace Page.
    I looked at several Beemers and just missed out buying a really nice K75S, but I'm glad I bought the S3. With Triumphs, depreciation is your friend... ;)

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • ian1stadian1stad Member Posts: 5
    I have a BMW M3 2003, how do you reset the check engine mileage doo hickey after an oil change... i saw the guy lean into my dashboard at BMW to reset it once when they forgot, but i couldn't see over his shoulder....do you know how
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,288
    do you know how

    1. Key in 0 or off position.

    2. Press and hold odometer button and turn key to 1 or acc. position.

    3. Keep button pressed until any of the following words appear in display: "oil service" or "inspection", with "reset" or "re".

    4. Press and hold button again until "reset" or "re" flash. If there is no "flash", minimum consumption value has not been met.

    5. While display is flashing, press button briefly to reset service interval indicator. After display has shown new interval, the following will appear in display for approx. 2 seconds:"END SIA"

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • pm4pm4 Member Posts: 1
    hey,

    you can buy a tool for this from www.bavauto.com for around $70 .
    I am new at this site . I have an 2003 m3 convertible. No problems to speak of...my fingers are crossed.

    good luck,
    phil
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,288
    you can buy a tool for this from www.bavauto.com for around $70 .

    As noted above, an SIA reset tool is NOT needed to reset the SIA on most BMWs from @11/00 forward. However, if you plan to work on your BMW, then I would advise purchasing the appropriate R5/FCX-II from Peake Research, which will allow you to read most BMW fault codes.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • ian1stadian1stad Member Posts: 5
    Roadrunner: thankyou !!!
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,288
    You're welcome; I'm always glad to help another ///M car enthusiast.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • whitem3whitem3 Member Posts: 12
    It's whitem3 bothering again. I have now done nearly everything that you suggest. I have not yet replaced the RSMs, but I think I will do that. I "tested" the rear shocks by pushing down vigorously on the rear corners. There was very little give, and it sprung right back. So...I have 2 questions.
    #1- If I replace the RSMs, should I replace the rear shocks at the same time? If so-with what?
    #2-what would be the top 3 performance enhancing changes I could make on my 95 M3? I am not looking for more speed, just even more pleasure driving. Thank you so very much. Steve
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,288
    #1- If I replace the RSMs, should I replace the rear shocks at the same time? If so-with what?

    Well, if the RSMs are quiet I'd probably and leave them alone. As for shocks I'd go with either Bilsteins or Konis.

    #2-what would be the top 3 performance enhancing changes I could make on my 95 M3? I am not looking for more speed, just even more pleasure driving.

    1. Attend several BMW CCA drivers schools- per year.
    2. A Conforti Euro Intake Kit
    3. UUC Sway Bars

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • lostit3lostit3 Member Posts: 2
    I have a question. I just bought a 2005 M3 convertible with very low miles, less than 5,000. I have two more years on the existing warranty. I'm looking at possibly getting an extended warranty. Would any of you recommend this? I thinking of owning for up to 7 years. What's a good policy? Good price?
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,288
    I'm looking at possibly getting an extended warranty. Would any of you recommend this?

    The only extended warranty I'd consider would be the one offered by BMW, which essentially mirrors the CPO warranty. FWIW, I've also been looking at E46 M3s, and if I buy one I'm just going to roll the dice and forgo any additional warranty. The E46 M3 has proven to be quite reliable and I feel comfortable with assuming that risk.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • ian1stadian1stad Member Posts: 5
    Karen: I bought my wife a 2003 M3 4years ago and just recently had to deal with the whole extended warranty scenario. I tried to buy the BMW extended warranty but as i bought the M3 from a dealership other than BMW they wouldn't sell it to me, they wanted to sell me their extended warranty which as i was sitting in the F&I guys office, I looked up while he was doing his sales pitch and saw a "MERCURY INSURANCE MEDALLION" on his bookshelf...that set bells off in my head. So, I thanked him for his help, by the way he tried to sell me the BMW Maintenance plan for about $1600.00 which is the 2 year oil change maintenance plan BUT as my wife drives maybe 8500 miles a year and the M3 only requires oil change service every 15,000 miles it didn't seem like a very good deal to me, but back to the extended warranty. I called my MERCURY insurance broker and bought the same warranty from Mercury at like 1/2 the price it would have cost me in the dealership...as we all know they mark those items up the wazooo as thats how they make their profit!! Mercury offers to plans..definetly get the DELUXE GOLD PACKAGE...it was 7 years or i think 70 or 80 thousand miles..can't remember exactly BUT AND THIS IS IMPORTANT...the 7 years starts from the M3's INSERVICE PRODUCTION DATE so you have to extremely careful and call the VIN number in and check when that date is....because sometimes you maybe buying a 2005 M3 but the production date could be like November 2004 AND THATS when the extended warranties start. Hope this has been alittle helpful.
    best regards,
    Ian
    (PS Watch "CRIMINAL MINDS" Wednesday Nights at 9pm on CBS....thankyou.)
  • m3momm3mom Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 M3 convertible 6 speed manual transmission. only 11k miles. Last June I drove it for a while when the low gas light was on. After I filled the tank, about 15 min.later while driving on the highway at about 75mph, the service engine light came on and even though I had the gas pedal to the floor the car wouldn't go over 30mph and the engine was very rough sounding. This lasted for a few minutes then everything went back to normal. Since then, no problems until a few days ago when gas gauge showed a little less than 1/4 tank (low gas light NOT on) again driving at about 75 mph. This time car wouldn't go over 30mph and it never went back to normal. I got off the highway and had the car towed to the dealer and so far they've told me they can't re-create the problem and don't know what's wrong. They suggested they would put $10 in the tank and drive it on the highway. I told them to NOT put any more gas in and drive it like I did at 75mph. They are still trying to diagnose the problem. Does anyone have any idea what this problem could be?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well gee...symptoms only occur when fuel level is low...you'd think the dealer would check fuel rail pressure and fuel pressure regulator, etc. and the fuel pump itself. Let me get Homer Simpson to go over there and smack 'em one in the forehead....
  • bornoborno Member Posts: 77
    I bought 01 M3cic, 6sp.,27K privately. Car was two years old, when I got it, have had it for four years. Last year had small sensor problem, cost $300, or so. Recently, my top motor died, cost $1400. I was hoping to have won the extended insurance game, but now looks like I'll break even, as long as nothing goes wrong next season. However the car is FANTASTIC, and dependable. Wouldn't worry too much either way, just enjoy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • ian1stadian1stad Member Posts: 5
    Interesting story (I guess, maybe not) my wife's 2003 M3 convertible went thru a pair of michelins that we had just bought for the rear...could not figure out why a brand new set of tires would wear in less than 4months...my mechanic (Not BMW just a local shop) had the car alligned a number of times..finally he had another M3 with the same problem..one of his coworkers looked deep in the rear and found that the guys bushings were bad...he fortunately had it covered under warranty...when they put my wife's car up she had the same problem ....i took the car back to BMW...and 700 dollars later the Rear bushings were replaced (fortunately i have that Mercury Extended Warranty i talked about a few postings back) so i'm now happy i had purchased the warranty. We'll see if it pays off down the road.!! Watch 'CRIMINAL MINDS" Wednesday nights at 9pm on CBS, we're #1 in our timeslot!!!
  • whitem3whitem3 Member Posts: 12
    I have a 95 M3-85000 miles. In the pasdt few years it has started to beep occasionally. Usually it only happens once, out of the blue, whilke I am driving. It is a series of three beeps in rapid succession. Nothing else happens, everything runs fine, and I just go on my merry way. What is the significance of the beep?
    Also, when the radiator and the rear shock mounts look pristine, how many of you E36 owners have replaced them anyway?
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,288
    What is the significance of the beep?

    Probably a setting on the onboard computer. The speed or ice alarm would be my guess.

    Also, when the radiator and the rear shock mounts look pristine, how many of you E36 owners have replaced them anyway?

    I'd definitely replace the radiator within the next six months or 6K miles. In an E36 of your vintage the radiator can fail without warning at any time. It's a fairly inexpensive procedure that you can do yourself. If you plan to keep and/or track the car I'd consider fitting the Zionsville Autosport all metal radiator. It's not cheap, but it cures the radiator problem permanently.
    When the rear shock mounts start to go you'll hear them. Replace them with the Meyle HD RSMs from UUC Motorwerks.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • whitem3whitem3 Member Posts: 12
    Thanks again friend. I have followed most of your previous advice. I guess I will do the radiator soon. RSMs-I don't know.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,288
    RSMs-I don't know.

    Unlike a radiator, the RSMs will give you an audible warning, so you can certainly wait until you hear them.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • nixter5nixter5 Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased an '02 BMW M3 w/ 52k miles on it a week ago. Does anyone know what I should be checking on in terms of preventive maintenance? Is there a part that needs to be replaced normally at this point? Sorry, I'm new to this mean machine.

    Thanks!
  • ian1stadian1stad Member Posts: 5
    2003 M3 convertible...last december i was getting a clutch type stutter in 1st gear as i lightly hit the gas..took it to the dealership and here's what they did..."Clutch Pressure Plate faulty. Self-Adjustment. Clutch operation bad in first gear. Remove SMG Transmission to inspect. Disc material surface was ok but found pressure plate self-adjustment all the way out. shows signs of chattering on plate surface. Flywheel found ok. Remove and replace clutch assembly and reassemble -BLE SMG Trasmission." That was just 11 months ago...same problem again!! Thank god it's covered under their 2 year parts warranty, they didn't have to go to my aftermarket warranty from Mercury. Why is this happening again??? Also everytime i go to that dealership he's trying to tell me i'm due for a Brake fluid Flush???? How often should i do that??? I always feel that's basically the dealership trying to "HOSE" me.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,288
    Does anyone know what I should be checking on in terms of preventive maintenance? Is there a part that needs to be replaced normally at this point? Sorry, I'm new to this mean machine.

    Do you have access to the car's service records? That would help determine what service the car needs. In any event, I would change the oil at 7.5K intervals using Castrol 10W-60 and a BMW filter. Brake fluid needs to be changed at least every two years using a quality DOT 4 fluid, such as BMW, Castrol LMA, or ATE Super Blue Racing. If your car sees the track(and it should), change it every 6 months. Coolant should be changed every two years using BMW Coolant ONLY. I'd follow the Service Interval Indicator for all other service. Your owner's manual contains information on the SI system.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,288
    Why is this happening again???

    I know that the self adjusting pressure plate has caused problems in the MT cars. Most people swap it for a conventional pressure plate, which has a better "feel" and is more reliable. I don't know if that's possible with your car. I'd check with the guys at UUC Motorwerks and see what they recommend.

    Also everytime i go to that dealership he's trying to tell me i'm due for a Brake fluid Flush???? How often should i do that???

    Street driven cars cars can have the fluid flushed every two years(DOT 4 fluid ONLY). Cars that see track use should change the fluid every 6 months.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • gotmgotm Member Posts: 1
    Hello everyone I am an new owner of e46 M3 2003 6spd with 45K miles, bought it preowned from private but still carried the CPO certified from BMW until end of next year. I love the car, the look but not the shifting clunking noise. My car recently rev pretty high between gears. Majority on 1st and 2nd Its feel like a car with turbo lack meaning rev high but car move not as fast as it should be. I don't feel the push to the seat anymore. I also hear clunking noise when I am about to shift. I could literally feel the metal hitting each other on the drivetrain to the rear differential. Anyone in here have that problems? How do I fix it and what causing it to be like that. I already schedule for service next week and I will let you all know what they got to say. Any feed back greatly appreciated. :confuse: thank you
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