DODGE DAKOTA QUAD CAB

dustyk · November 2002

As I was washing my Dakota the other day, I noticed some leaves stuck in the fins of the air conditioning condenser. The condenser on Dakotas are quite low and a fair portion of it is exposed in the air stream openings below the grill. Since I had an issue with a rock hitting the hood and windshield on I-86 the other day, I couldn't help but wonder if anybody has experienced a damaged condenser (or radiator in it's absence) from road debris.

Does anybody know of a screen protector to fit in front of the condenser? Also, does anybody know where the factory mounts a transmission oil cooler on a Dakota? There sure doesn't seem to be much room for one.

Thanks in advance,
Dusty

glzr2 · November 2002

I have not bought a set as of yet, but they are on my wish list. I can't seem to find the link to the ones I like, but if you scan the Dakota accessories board, someone posted the product there. Or go to http://www.pickuptruckaccessories.com/Item.asp#items.

I will continue to look for the ones I want, and if I find them, I'll tell you where.

bpeebles · November 2002

(dustyk) There are MANY aftermarket grill-inserts available for the Dakota. I spent 5 minutes serching and came up with these links. Judging from all of the Dakoata catalogs I receive in the mail there must be 15 differend companies making grill-inserts.

link
link

link

gator72 · November 2002

FIRST: Thanks Bookitty and Mopar67 for your posts.

Since my last post, I've gotten exactly no where. The dealer flashed my computer yet again. But, the idle is still rough and the mileage has dropped to 11~12 mpg city and 13~14 hwy. (FYI: I've got a 4.7 L V8, auto tranny). Also, my transmission "pops" when shifting at low speeds. (It's so bad, I look in the mirror to see if I've been rear-ended).

The Service Manager supposedly spoke with the Zone Rep.; who supposedly said I should "learn to live with it" because there are no additional "flashes" AND they can't re-install the original "flash" settings. The Service Manager remarked that the Zone Rep had a poor attitude. But, he has no other advice for me.

At this point, I'll have to start the consumer complaint process and hopefully work my way to a "buy-back". If not, I'm prepared to sue under my State's Lemon Law. (FYI: I did not sign an arbitration agreement - otherwise, I'd be out of luck because it is so much more expensive than going to court. Dealers are real big on arbitration as a way to prevent lawsuits because they know the average consumer cannot pony-up the $2,500.00 arbitrator's fee just to start the process; (does not include his/her daily fees).

I don't want to do any of this. I really like my 2001 QC SLT+. It's the right size, right platform and looks great. I special ordered mine to get eveything I wanted (Plus Pkg., HD, etc.).

There's nothing else out there that I would want to drive: The Ram Quad is TOO big. The Tacoma Crewcab is TOO small and ... you get the picture.

** If anyone has any suggestions, please let me know. Otherwise, I'll keep you posted.

hasel · November 2002

joust installed grill inserts on my DAK from www.grill-tech.com, price is right and service is great had the inserts 3 days after i ordered them.

snakeoil · November 2002

I am thinking about replacing my 245's with 265's any advise on the benefits? Ride better? Handling better? This is a great truck . . no complaints except fot he gas mileage.

snakeoil · November 2002

Looking to replace my 245's with 265's. What are the advantages or disadvantages? Great truck by the way.

glzr2 · November 2002

Since I haven't received any responses to my posting on the "Dodge Dakota problems" board, and since this is the only board with activity, I will ask again;

Does anyone have any information on how to kill the auto door locks for the '02 quad cab? Whether it be a fuse or anything that I can pull to stop them from continuously unlocking! The dealer hasn't called back with a solution or to tell me the parts are in, and I'm getting sick of pulling the battery cable!!!

Please help!

obyone · November 2002

Ever thought of calling another dealer? Maybe they could help you over the phone...for a temporary fix.

glzr2 · November 2002

I thought I would try the experts 1st. I know a couple people on the Dakota boards have the service manuals. I talked to the dealer and only one of the switches came in, and they claim there isn't any way to kill the power to the door locks with out killing the entire "body control" unit? I couldn't tell if they were telling the truth since telling me to try something might make them liable.

It really is driving me crazy....

bcarter3 · November 2002

I have spent a couple of hours with the Service Manual trying to figure a way to deactivate the door locks. The problem is that there aren't any separate fuses for them. They are hard wired to and controlled by the Central Timer Module and deactivating that pretty much shuts down the vehicle. The CTM controls exterior and interior lights, battery protection, intermittent wipers, security system as well as the locks. About the only way to deactivate just the locks is to disconnect the ground(s) for the lock motors. That ground is located near the 'B' pillar close to where the drivers seat belt is mounted. The ground(s) for the locks is a black wire with a light green stripe. I don't have the QC so I don't know how much trouble it is to remove the sidewall. There may be an easier way, but if there is I can't figure it out.

Good luck, Dick

glzr2 · November 2002

Thanks for the response. I was worried that the fix was going to be complex. I am guessing that the reason for the locks to be hard wired into the system is for security.

When you say "close to where the drivers seat belt is mounted", your talking the anchor mount on the floor correct? And the "sidewall" is the interior "B" pillar panel?

Were is the cheapest place to buy the service manual?

thanks,
Gordon

bcarter3 · November 2002

Gordon, Yes to both. The wire from the seat belt should go to the same ground point as the door locks. I'm not sure how many wires are at this ground point but the one(s) you are looking for are black with a light green stripe.
There is an order blank in the back of your owners manual to order the Service Manual. The cost is about $100 delivered. I consider it to be a bargain for the information it provides. For quicker service call 1-800-890-4038
Dick

iowabigguy · November 2002

see my response in Dakota Problems, My guess is for what the problem is will be the Central Time Module. It determines wether or not to lock the doors at 15mph or not depending on programming. It has an enhanced accident response mode which unlocks all doors on airbag deployment and will re lock all doors if a door is opened at speeds above 15mph and then re closed. Really is a complicated little computer controlling all these functions. The dealer should be able to isolate the problem with their OBD2 scanner. Rick

dustyk · November 2002

May I assume that the engine ran well at one time and that this is a somewhat recent problem?

Sometime back I rode in a '01 Dakota with the 4.7 engine and neither did I detect an idle problem, but the owner never commented on having any type of engine performance issue, including fuel consumption. That was at 22,000 miles or so.

After re-reading your post I'm begining to think the problem is something very basic and that the service personnel are unable to detect the cause. Sometimes the computer cannot be totally relied on to supply a fault code. I know of one case (a Toyota) where the computer had failed in such a way that it was masking a sensor failure, so it can happen.

Your service department may be giving valiant attempts but still overlooking something obvious. If it ran well at one time I don't see how a computer flash is going to resolve this issue, unless the computer has lost an algorithm.

Best of luck!

Dusty

henne · November 2002

I understand your problem. I have had many problems with my truckS, Notice the Capital S. My 4.7 has the rough idle also, with the flashes, but I have found that if I run Chevron it idles much better. The problem seems to be carbon buildup in the combustion chamber. I clean my fuel system regularly and that with the Techron in the Chevron gas keeps this idle issue more livable. I dont like it, but D/C doesnt want to do anything about it (At least its better than the poor GM guys with the piston slap LOL...)

Your transmission also sounds familiar as I have seen what your describing many times. What I have done and many of my friends with D/C trannys is by 20k or so miles the tranny will start to bump/shutter. I flushed my tranny with Amsoil Synth ATF and after a couple of thousand miles, drop the pan and change the filter and top off with Amsoil.

There is a warning out by the Filter Association (not sure of the proper name) that if you flush a tranny with a good ATF fluid, it can knock the crud loose and clog up the filter (Detergents I guess). They recommend running a short time after flush and then drop the pan and change the filter like I did.

There could also be another problem with your tranny and engine, but this is my experience, personal and through the grape vine.

Good luck,

Robert

jebsdaddy · November 2002

I have a 2001 Dodge Dakota with the 4.7L/5spd/3.92

Does anyone have any experience using one of the performance chips like the ones that Jet sells.

Does it really make much difference in performance?

What brands other than Jet are applicable?

Down side?

Is this where everyone hangs out now??

Thanks in advance, Robert

dustyk · November 2002

A fellow at work was telling me about some automobile TV program he watched that was warning against aftermarket air, oil, transmission filters that do not filter as completely as the OEM manufacturer's one's. It's odd, but my auto tech recently made a comment to another customer about a transmission filter being "lousy" that -- supposedly -- was the cause or contributed to his transmission failure.

Our Toyota dealer has a poster in the service waiting area also proclaiming that some aftermarket filters are not as effective. Obviously, the point being to buy the "original equipment" (ie: Toyota) filter, but has anyone heard anything about this? Is there a problem in the industry with aftermarket filters?

Thanks in advance,
Dusty

dustyk · November 2002

I found this at: http://www.chevron.com/prodserv/nafl/auto/content/atf.shtm#atf34

"ATF+3® /ATF+4®

DaimlerChrysler has had their own ATF specifications for many years, but as of 1997, Chrysler owners' manuals no longer list DEXRON as an acceptable replacement. ATF+3 is a readily available mineral oil-based ATF that is suitable in any application calling for ATF PLUS® , ATF+2® , or a Type 7176® fluid. Vehicles manufactured after 1999 require ATF+4® , a synthetic-based ATF only available through DaimlerChrysler."

I have talked to one transmission shop that told me that Chrysler ATF+4 was used by them in Ford truck transmissions to cure torque converter shudder. Interestingly, a fellow worker told me the other day that his 2000 F150 had such a problem and that his Ford dealer installed Chrysler ATF!!!

The above seems to say that ATF+4 is a synthetic material, but I suspect that it also contains some sort of friction modifier. It also implies that ATF+4 is only available through Chrysler.

Dusty

bpeebles · November 2002

As most of you that have followed this forum for years knows, I am running REDLINE lubes in both axles, xfer case and manual tranny. I have only rave reports about the much-improved shifting (especially in cold wether)

REDLINE offers 5 different types of synthetic ATFs available. For the chrysler-approved lube, please review the RED LINE website and then search for their Synthetic C+ ATF

PS: This may sound like a sales-pitch.... but again... Those of you that are familiar with me know that I am just an educated, technical person that has researched the available lubes and settled on REDLINE.

mopar67 · November 2002

Dusty, the only filter(s) I would stay away from in the aftermarket are Fram, Pennzoil, Quaker State, and the el cheapo sold at walmart under their private label.
Myself, I use NAPA/WIX filters. Extensive research on the oil filter study site plus my own disassembly of various oil filters has led me to this conclusion. While I cannot offer filter efficiency ratings and flow rates, I do know that WIX is one of the better filters out there.
I used a FRAM once on the Dakota and I was perturbed at the slight lifter noise on cold startup. Next change, I used a WIX filter. Stayed with same oil (at the time I was using Havoline) and presto, the lifter clatter at cold startup went away. Same thing on the Zuki....although there was an OEM filter on there and its constuction was nothing to brag about.

When I think back, I used Frams quite a bit in my early years and all my vehicles had a bit of lifter clatter on startup.

Pop QUIZ time! Why, on my Dodge Dart, 1975 model year with a slant six, did I have lifter clatter no matter what oil or filter I used?
Hint...its NOTHING to do with a mechanical defect.

bpeebles · November 2002

(mopar67) Solid lifters? ... but in 1975?... I thought those went out with the real muscle cars of the 60's 8-)

bpeebles · November 2002

This subject seems to come up several times a year. There is one guy that has actually cut open and done a thorough inspeciton of many oil filters.

There is a REASON why the orange FRAM filters seem to get a "bad rap" Once you see the CARDBOARD internal parts that disentegrate in hot oil... you may choose not to use them either.

Here is is again... the (now famous) OIL FILTER STUDY

mopar67 · November 2002

Yup, solid lifters and I never took the time to adjust them.
Mopar switched to hydraulic lifters for the 1981 model year.

Yes, Fram was once a quality maker of filters but somewhere along the line, in an effort to produce more returns, corners were cut. I totally agree that cardboard has no proper place in an oil filter. I was aghast at the findings by Mr Kinzie so I cut one open myself. To say the least, his pics were stellar compared to the piss poor assembly and the cheapness of materials I found in mine. And a plastic anti drain valve....puleez!

BTW....Where did I buy it? Wal mart!

dustyk · November 2002

Well, I'm sorry to say I'm somewhat skeptical of this gentleman's research. The component analysis is not necessarily conclusive. The material quality analysis is merely piece-part comparative. There was no actual empirical testing to determine comparative effectiveness of any aspect of an oil filter. In fact, the most striking thing absent is a category that I would think would be relatively important: filtration effectiveness. There was no testing done to arrive at how effective each filter was at removing particles of different sizes. Filter media may seem "stronger," or appear more dense, but no actual testing was done to determine actual instrument-derived filtering capability or strength.

I've been involved in a number of testing and research studies, and there is one aspect of this one that is completely non-professional. Most authors of research (except in sociological research), while offering conclusions, make every effort to let the facts and evidence of the testing speak for itself, allowing the reader to draw her or his own conclusions. The research, if truly conducted effectively and in an unbiased manner, should be able to stand on its own. This author is clearly opinionated. He may think, and you may be convinced, that this is the result of his testing. But in reality his testing is not complete without actual flow and operational aspect testing. The 'apparent' quality of materials MAY NOT dictate or even influence actual fitness-of-purpose filter effectiveness.

His "please don't buy this filter' is patently unprofessional, in my opinion. He has done himself a disfavor, I think, by including these biasing remarks, even if he is ultimately correct in his conclusions.

Dusty

obyone · November 2002

Does that mean you'll be using Fram filters?

dustyk · November 2002

Maybe. Actually, I have used Fram filters off-and-on for many, many years -- along with others -- and I don't ever recall having any kind of problem related to an oil filter.

On the surface this gentlemen's evaluation seems too cursory. For example, the "plastic" bypass valve. Now to many when confronted with two devices, one of plastic another of metal, it might seem to some that the plastic item represents cheap. But plastic is a generic term for a broad range of material. His analysis does not really tell us what the material is. It is possible that a more flexible material in this application actually provides a better sealing function, and there are so many different types of plastics that it is non-revolutionary to find one that could perform this function better than metal.

Likewise, the other criticisms seem all aimed at mere component or assembly comparison. This is a simple and very incomplete way of determining oil filter effectivity and really doesn't give us a picture of performance -- simulated or otherwise -- when used with the engine application for which it was designed.

You know, after giving this some thought I seem to recall (and I could be wrong) that Consumers' Reports did a test of oil filters some years back and I think they determined that Fram filtered out more material 8 micron and smaller, than competitive products.

Regards,
Dusty

mopar67 · November 2002

Probably when fram actually made a good filter.
I took one apart and saw exactly what was discussed on the web site.
Re-read the web site. The guy makes no claim to check flow rates, filtering capacity etc. He just took 'em apart and created a web site on his observations.
BTW.....somewhere there is a link to an email from a former allied signal engineer...read that and you might not want to use fram....ever.
Nonetheless, it aroused my curiosity and I did what probably anyone would do. I took a Fram apart and saw the whole deal.
For what its worth, an oil filter is too important for me to rely on shoddy workmanship and cheap materials. My engines deserve better.

dustyk · November 2002

I always used the Fram on my wife's Acclaim since it was new. It went 160,000 miles or better. Never had a problem.

......I have read the info that was referenced in post 1573. I realize he never made any evaluations about the actual effectiveness of the various filters. That's my point.

I could not find the "email" from the Allied-Signal person that was refered to in post 1573. The link to the originator's web-site doesn't work, either.

Dusty

iowabigguy · November 2002

Thats why I use Mopar filters, That way if there is a failure of the oil filter I'm covered under my warranty rather than having to make a claim to Fram or whoever. Rick

missedbass · November 2002

any tricks to changing the oil filter on a 4.7 without making a mess?

dustyk · November 2002

......What's the deal with dropping the oil on the 4.7 Dakota? I've looked at mine and it seems pretty easy to get to.

I'm assuming that I'm missing something here.

Dusty

dustyk · November 2002

Is it just my Club Cab? It seems so easy to over fill the tank on this truck. I'm use to clicking the nozzle a number of times when it shuts off automatically, but on this Dakota two squirts and fuel is pouring out the pipe.

Does make it easy to know when the tank is filled completely for gas mileage checks. I guess I'm just have to get use to this.

Dusty

mopar67 · November 2002

missedbass · November 2002

changing the oil is no problem, removing the filter through that plastic shield and having the oil run down the frame was what I was talking about.

marsha7 · November 2002

another old rumor...the reason why Chrysler developed the engine as a slant six...supposedly Chrysler engineers and designers had not communicated with each other (why this is so believeable) and when the first Darts/Valiants came down the line, the engine sat too high and the hood would not close...the cheapest way around the problem was that someone thought by moving motor mounts the engne could be slanted, lowering the top and allowing the hood to close...what was thought to be design brilliance was actually some "out of the box" thinking to salvage an entire line of cars for the year...

dustyk · November 2002

Sorry, old man. Still have the original Mopar filter on my Dakota!

Dusty

dustyk · November 2002

The "old rumor" is one that I hope you don't believe, because its got more you-know-what than an over fed pig.

A Slant-Six engine is not a vertical in-line six that has been canted in the engine bay. The cylinder inclination is with respect to the crankshaft centerline, or in other words, the oil pan boss. A cut-away diagram clearly shows that the engine was designed to be inclined. In addition, the Valiant/Dart series was in design for almost four years -- get this -- the same amount of time as the engine development!

Let me guess: this came from another Chrysler-Dodge hater, I'll bet!

Best regards,
Dusty

romes1 · November 2002

I'm looking at the 2003 Quad SLT I have two 2 1/2 month old infants. Does anyone know about how safe the fold up back seats are? The car seats fit fine... it's the folding up of the seat during a crash I'm worried about.

thanks
Romes

eagleeye13 · November 2002

Hello, everyone !
I haven't been keeping up to date on whats happening.
Update 12,000 + miles and except for defects in paint upon delivery my '02 QC 4.7,3.55lsd,5spd is doing great.
I'm running Chevron 87 octane with no idle problems, avg mpg 16-18 combo- freeway/city. 3" dyna max cat back exh. with KN filter and intake mod with fernco elbows and piece of stainless steel
3 1/2" "duct" instead of the abs.
Still running stock tires and wheels. Looking to change tires and wheels after the New Year.

Hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving Day !!!!
Time to read all the info that I've missed.
Lee

missedbass · November 2002

what was the problem with the paint on your truck?

kingquad1 · December 2002

I know it has been mentioned before, but..... all I remember is f106n for the part number. Do you need the adapter that they offer?
I'm changing oil soon and might as well put 1 on...I like the idea of putting a hose on it...stops the oil from running all over the suspension.
Thanks

kingquad1 · December 2002

PRESENTLY I AM WORKING AT GM. THE ENGINEER THAT SITS NEXT TO ME IS IN CHARGE OF THE AIR INTAKES FOR THE TRAILBLAZER,ETC. MODELS. I HAD HIM TAKE A LOOK AT BOOKITTY'S, INTENSE PERFORMANCE, ETC. HE ALSO RACES CARS AND SEEMS TO BE VERY KNOWLEDGEABLE ABOUT THIS STUFF. IN HIS OWN OPINION, HE SAYS HE DOUBTED THAT AND OF THESE MODIFICATIONS WOULD HELP IN MILEAGE! I ASKED ABOUT THE SQUARE TB HOUSE. HE THINKS IT IS SETUP FOR HARMONICS(NOISES) AND THAT THE SETUP THAT DODGE HAS IS PROBABLY THE BEST HE HAS SEEN. ESPECIALLY THRU THE FENDER FOR COLD AIR. I HAVE BEEN THINKING ABOUT SPENDING THE MONEY ON THE COLD AIR BY INTENSE, BUT NOW I WILL KEEP WHAT IS THERE. I ASKED ABOUT A CUDA"SHAKER" HOOD. THAT IS DIRECT COLD AIR INDUCTION AND THAT WOULD PROBABLY HELP IN MILEAGE IMPROVEMENT. i ALSO ASKED IF HE HAD ANY IDEAS ABOUT QUICK HP ADD ON. HE THINKS I SHOULD BE HAPPY WITH WHAT I HAVE.
I THINK HE IS RIGHT!
ANYHOW, THAIS HIS 2 CENTS! BY THE WAY, BOOKITTY, I THOUGHT YOU DID ONE HELL OF A JOB ON YOUR SYSTEM. IF ANYTHING, IT GIVES YOU QUICK AND BETTER ACCESS TO WORK ON YOU ENGINE.
THANKS.
KINGQUAD1

bookitty · December 2002

Chris, I am afraid you are crediting me for someone else's hard work. I have only submitted more or less normal everyday input on this site. Oh how I wish it were true, but I continue to wear the cloak of mediocrity.

Bookitty

kingquad1 · December 2002

has anyone replaced their shocks on a 4x4 quadcab with the handling package? I didn't see anything listed for Bilstein. What are you using?

bluebayou · December 2002

Edelbrock Performer IAS

You won't be sorry!! Love Mine!

Blue

bpeebles · December 2002

I second that.... the Edelbrock Performer IAS

is FARRRR better than any other on the market.

My dakota is like a whole different vehicle... instead of the rear end jumping around on road... it now sticks like glue... even under hard accelleration ;-)

The nose-dive during braking is almost gone too.

If you do not wish to spend the $$ for the IAS monotube shocks... consider their twin-tube design. It is less expensive but still contains the pantented RICOR IAS design.

Here are some links to order them from.

http://www.shockwarehouse.com/

http://www.shox.com/

bma80 · December 2002

I'm looking at buying either a 2002 Nissan 4X4 Crewcab long bed or a 2002 Dodge Dakota 4x4 Crewcab. Please someone tell me what you think so maybe this could help me make a decission? With the end of the year rebates the prices are pretty much the same. Tell me what you guys think. Thanks

bookitty · December 2002

Brian, initially in 2000 when I was shopping for a four door (conventional doors, not suicide or extended cab) I test drove the Nissan crew cab. I liked the look of the truck, but found it to be lacking in power even pulling my empty 5X8 HD utility
trailer. This was before the truck was available with a turbocharger. Coupled to that, was the very small (for me) area with the clutch and brake pedals being so close, that my size 12EEE shoes were tangling. The rear seating area was smallish, and not too comfortable. When my wife mentioned that she saw an advertisement for a Dodge Dakota, and remembered how happy I had been with my 1995 Dodge Dakota with extended cab, V8 and five speed manual. I really didn't have to test drive the five
speed Dakota (none available on the ground), as it felt and drove like my 1995 Club Cab except for the automatic. In that I always choose an American product if possible, I ordered my Dakota truck and used a $500.00 certificate available from the Farm Bureau. I paid at the time, a little less than $100.00 over invoice less my certificate. I have the 4X4, 4.7 V8, 3.52 LSD, HD everything with skid plates, SLT package, tow package, rear slider and much more. I just love this truck! I am sorry that I cannot offer a true comparison regarding the Nissan turbocharger. version, because I never drove one. Hope that this is of some help. Also, much of the information that I gleaned was a direct benefit of subscribing to this site. There are very many knowledgeable and capable members, who can offer much insight and information. A great bunch.

Bookitty

dustyk · December 2002

Although I do not own a Quad cab of any type, I can give some comparative opinion based on my test driving and looking at the very two vehicles you're asking about.

I wanted a truck with enough room to carry 4 passengers and a full size ATV. One of the first trucks I looked at was the Frontier 4-door because I owned a Sentra that was the best car I'd ever owned and had a lot of confidence in Nissan products. But I have to echo much of Bookitty's comments. The Frontier, although adequately powered for daily use, was lacking in the pulling power I would ocassionally want. And although it had four doors, the rear seating is exceptionally limiting. I would not have been able to load my ATV onto the bed and have the tailgate up.

(Now, I couldn't load my ATV onto a Dakota Quad and get the tailgate up, either. This and the fact that the Frontier rear seating was not much larger than the Club Cab, is what made me consider the Dakota Club Cab version. Had the Frontier met both of these criteria, it might've been the one I'd be driving today.)

Other than exceptional durability and reliability, in my opinion the Frontier Quad falls way short competitively in most aspects. I did test drive a Dakota Quad. Even with the 3.9 V6 it felt snappier. It was definitely smoother and more comfortable. And from what I can tell the fuel consumption might be the same (check the EPA ratings of the two trucks).

I ended up buying a Dakota Club Cab 4x2 (4.7, auto) which has the room I need for intermittent use (two kids) and performs very nicely for my needs. The Club Cab version met my basic criteria and I just have to say that I liked the ride, handling, and refinement level of the Dakota better. In fact, even some full size trucks don't match the Dakota in this area, in my opinion. The Tacoma probably comes the closest overall.

Good luck on your decision. I know these aren't easy!

Regards,
Dusty

DODGE DAKOTA QUAD CAB

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles