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Ford Ranger III
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Comments
James
The truck is equipped with the rear jump seats, which I believe are standard. I don't have any kids, and think the jump seats are a joke for real adults. The rear area is the domain of my 70lb labrador retreiver, and she could use some more room.
Has anyone removed the jump seats to get more room in their 4 door Ranger? If so, how is it done, and what should I look for? From a visual inspection it appears that the seatbelt assembly could be a problem.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Vince8: Are you from that "younger generation"?
Jump seats: I was wondering the same thing. Nothing a set of wrenches can't fix. As far as the seatbelt, how about a razor? Maybe remove just the driver's side seat?
The 4x4 is $2000 more and we want to get it this week. Does anyone have experience with a 4x2 in a mild to moderate snow? How does it handle? - Pam
If you only drive in mild to moderate snow, you should be fine with a decent set of SNOW TIRES. If you plan on driving in deeper snow, you'll do OK with CHAINS. Positraction always helps too, with baldies, snows, or chains.
I live in MA, and am deciding the same thing. The only difference is that I ski, and would venture out during/immediately after a blizzard and I plan to go off road as well. Still, 4X2 vs 4X4 is a tough decision.
The DS is a 4x2 with the profile suspension of the 4X4, but by all means get them on the freeway before you buy.
I've put 4300+ miles on in almost two months so I am more than willing to say the 4X2 models are a comfortable ride and I'ld expect the same form the 4X4.
I would NEVER buy a vehicle without testing it under ALL driving conditions (accelerating, high speed, panic stop, cornering, off road, slalom, rolling acceleration, etc.)
1 Clean the throttle body, Over the years some oil and or fuel has collected inside. (It's located after the air box, after the air tube, just before the intake minifold.) Just take a clean, lint free rag and wipe the interior. If it's really bad, take off the throttle body and clean all around the butterfly. Be careful NOT to let any dust or grime particles get in the intake, as this goes straight to the combustion chambers.
2. Check the PCV valve, and (I believe it's called)EGR valve. Both are similair, vacuum tube parts, that also get clogged after the years. You should be able to shake either one and the ball bearing inside should have no problem rattling. If it gets stuck, you have sludge or something else in there. If either is really bad, investitage all hoses it attaches to for the same clogging. They should be located on your driver side, either between the firewall and the valve cover, or just underneath the intake manifold runners.
3. Check your mass air flow sensor, as this could be dirty as well.
4. It could also be a clogged oil pickup. This could take it longer to stabilize idle on a cold start. You gotta drop the oil pan to get to this one, but it's probably unlikely it's the cause. The others are much cheaper to do and replace, so check them out first.
If you have a local parts store like Autozone or Pep boys, go buy a Chilton's or Haynes manual for your truck. It has plenty of troubleshooting for these types of problems, with plenty of pictures to help even the most basic novice. Plus it really comes in handy when you have bigger projects fixing or modifing the truck.
Also you might try a bottle of zMax, as this stuff really helps higher milage engines return to their factory smoothness. (It's a micro-lubricant oil additive that works much better than slick 50 and duralube)All internal friction is really reduced, and you'll notice a signifigant drop in operating RPM while driving. Gas milage will go up too. Good luck, and let us know how it goes.
This site looks updated. You can't do all the extra options yet (like CD player coices, side bars, etc), but it's great in finding which model of Ranger fits your needs and wants. If only I could get a 4.0l Manual with styleside without going 4x4.
So, I guess that means that you would NEVER buy a NEW vehicle then? It would be kind of stupid to do High Speed Accelerating and Panic Stops on a brand new vehicle without breaking it in first, don't you think?
Last I checked, the dealer usually wants the money before the breakin period is over though...
They don't all vibrate the same after all.
Thanks in advance
James
It usually on the side of the intake, on my 94 4L it's on the left side. It is silver colored, about the size of a film canister but longer. It will have wires and a connector attached.
This can be removed and dis-assembled and cleaned. It has a solnoid and a valve to vary the air mixture at idle. The valve will carbon up. You might be able to clean with carb cleaner and then just re-install. Or, you might need to buy a new one if it is extremely dirty.
Isn't Tuesday supposed to be prime day? I forgot what I was told once long ago, but get there right after they unload all the new vehicles. Hopefully you have already test driven a similair model, so you know the model is right for you. Then test drive the actual truck you want, and be gentle, but very aware of how it drives/feels. My girlfriend just recently bought a 2001 accord with 5 miles on the odometer! Pretty darn cool, if you ask me.
jake->You are welcome, hopefully one of those ideas fixes it!
Just my opinion. Good luck with whatever you decide.
John
QUESTION for anybody (Vince8, are you out there ?). My 2000 model Ranger has never been waxed, and is garaged daily. can anyobody recommend a wax that will not "gunk up" and absorb dirt ? (my Ford is Oxford White). on a white Honda of mine, the wax seems to absorb dirt and get a "film" of crud embedded into it, which requires stripping the wax periodically (a JOB). has anybody use liquid stuff, in a maroon bottle, called "Maguiars" before ? i am thnking of trying that.
ANOTHER QUESTION: will modifying my exhaust system in any way (like a more open muffler) void my warranty ? the dealer DID tell me that a KN filter was OK, so i put one in. i'd like to get a few more ponies out of this doggy 4.0 pushrod six.
TIRES: i have learned that Ford will allow me to replace my tires (Firestone Widerness AT's) with original STOCK sizes at their expense (minus labor). i have also learned that Michelin LTX M/S tires are ON that list. so, that 's what i am having put on next week. i will let you know if that gets rid of the terrible highway vibration in my truck. if it doesn't, i am in a world of sh!#%*@+ !
mostly electrical and tire problems.
http://www.griots.com
I use the NuFinish on my ranger, the Griots on my Miata. I think they both do a good job, but the Griots is a little better with admittedly a lot more work...
On a different note, after some weeks away from this site, I see some discussion about "should I or shouldn't I buy a Ranger". Here are my thoughts: A) Mine is a '99 XLT, extended cab, 3.0L, auto. I love it. Never a lick of trouble, smooth and quiet and it hauls a lot. I've never enjoyed owning or operating a vehicle as much. I paid $15K for it new. It booked out on KBB last week at $15.2K. That's a good thing. C) Gas mileage? Forget about it! Its a truck. Welcome to truck ownership. Do I get 19.5 mpg or 21 mpg? Who cares? Read my lips ... T - R - U - C - K - !! (Did I spell that right?)
Last November, I leased a 2001 Edge Super cab Flare side with every option available. 4.0L V6, auto (only tarns avail at time) 4.10 Rear end (only way to get 16" wheels), etc. I immediately was surprised by the poor mileage of this truck, and went back to Landmark Ford in Tigard, Oregon several times to have it looked at. Having traded in a Mustang CT convertible, I realized I wasn't going to be getting the mileage of my Mazda Protege, but it was worse than my 1984 F150, or my cousin's 2000 F150 SC 4x4 with a 4.6L V8!
The dealer was of no help. Two weeks ago, after consistently getting 12-16 mpg, I traded the truck in on a Jeep Cherokee at a loss. But now I am getting 18-22 mpg. I would not recommend this truck to anyone looking. Too bad, because other than the dealer problems and the mileage, it was nice truck.
I own a 1998 Ranger with the offroad pkg 4.0 5spd. I average about 18-19MPG or so with 3.73 gears... I know in these times of high gas prices we are all watching our gas gauges. This gas shortage is a joke. The oil companies are getting rich...
Also 4.0l vs 3.0l is a big difference in cubic inch. Cubic inch is the basically the amount of air and fuel that gets compressed in the engine. The larger the engine, the more power it can make, but there is more air and fuel it needs. If you own the truck you have many options to increase performance and MPG. If you are leasing, well you don't want to waste your money adding or replacing components when you won't own it in 2 years.
The Edge package also has ride height comparable to the 4x4 rangers. Thats a lot more wind drag there too. Automatics also waste more with their different gearing. The manual is much more fuel friendly, especially vs. a 4 speed auto. 5 speed automatics have that extra gear, but automatics still suck up a larger percentage of power than manual transmissions,.
Will make a junkyard car shine like a new penny.
I started off getting 16-18mpg. With the stock 235 tires it went up to 20 city, 24-25 hwy.
I put on 31X10.5X15 tires and it went down a bit.
My last trip 4 wheeling to W. Colo went as follows:
When I what wheeling a bit and then driving hwy I got 20.5mpg. When I was returning home went from Delta Colo to Denver, 319 miles on 13.59 gal. which included a run up over the Grand Mesa taking the back way through to I-70, lots of climbing on one side.
That is about 23.5 mpg.
99 XLT 4X4, 4.0L manual 5 speed.
Plus I run synthetic oil. Best thing to do to these trucks. It helps mpg and engine live.
And I have the KKM filter, that adds a bit.