Ford Ranger III

mjbwrtr · December 2001

i considered that...is it a pain in the butt to do? it will also compromise my warranty i bet. it would give me better mileage and more speed, i know. i dont tow much and all i usually haul is the occasional furniture if a friend is moving, fishing rods, hunting stuff, cooler, friends...etc lol

jdbishop · December 2001

mjbwrtr-- Sounds to me like you should take a good hard look at O'Malley's and O'Riley's laws. We all know about Murphy's law, but some of us haven't heard of his cousins laws. O'Malley says, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" and O'Riley says, "If you mess with it long enough, you're going to break it". My little Ranger is great just like it came out of the factory.

mjbwrtr · December 2001

is great as it came from the factory too...i am just trying to get a general idea of how versatile they are and if there are simple ways i can get a little more "grunt" out of my four cylinder.

mjbwrtr · December 2001

just FYI... last night i bought a spray in bedliner...in an aerosol can from Advance Auto Parts. the cans were 8 bucks apiece and i used 7 of them on the bed of my shortbed Ranger. the dealership wanted 300 bucks for a plastic drop in liner and i said no way. i then started looking around for a cheaper and better alternative. the spray in liner was very easy to apply and it almost does the job itself. it bonds to itself and resists running and smearing. it dries very hard and has something like a high-grit sandpaper feel to it after drying. it isnt thick enough to fully protect the bed from deep scratches or dents...the kind youd see if you hauled cement blocks or something like that, but i put on three coats and i am placing a rubber mat in the bottom of the bed, and i went from unprotected, scratched paint to a covered and protected bed for about 100 bucks. did i mention it looks fantastic? guys, dont feel nervous about spraying your truck yourself. i did, until i saw the results. just so you know there is a viable alternative to being gouged at JC Whitney and dealerships. Auto Zone also carries a similar product but i bought the Plasti-Kote brand because it is made locally, about 20 miles from here- in Medina, Ohio.

blamb · December 2001

I took my '94 Ranger extended cab 4.0...76,000 miles.. in for the check engine light. They told me the code showed a bad 0xygen sensor $215 for the part, labor, and for reading the code. Sounded a little high. They called later and said the water pump is just starting to leak.....$315....a hundred for the pump plus labor. They also said the front brake rotors were warped....$100 each for the rotors, plus $110 for the brakes. I thought the water pump replacement was high.....can anybody let me know if these prices seemed too high...or about right? I had them replace the oxygen sensor, but thought I would wait on the pump and brakes. Thanks for you help.

jrosasmc · December 2001

Was the 2.3-liter four-cylinder in the 1983-97 Rangers the same unit that was found in the 1984-94 Tempo/Topaz? I do know that the Tempo four was basically the old Falcon/Mustang 200-cid six with two cylinders chopped off; the Ranger unit was from the '70s Mustang/Fairmont. Does anyone have any information on these fours?

midnight_stang · December 2001

You're right about the straight six's resemblance to the tempo 2.3l, but the Ranger engine vs Tempo engine are different.

The Tempo/Topaz used a cam in block design. The 2.3 was introduced around 1984, and in '86 it grew to 2.5l, and came with EFI.

The 2.3l family found in Rangers, Mustangs, and T-Birds, and even Aerostars uses a belt driven over head cam design. (OHC). The 2.3l variety was largely used from 1974 to 1995. The 2.0l (non european) is a smaller bore 2.3l. The 2.5l came out for Ranger in 1998, and with an increased stroke.

As far as bellhousing bolt patterns and motor mounts, I am not sure of the compatability or similairity of these two engine groups. That is in case you want to swap an engine. But if you're looking for parts, you pretty much gotta stick with the above.

There is a new 2.3l engine, which I think is based on the same engine block, but it does have 4 valves per cylinder. I don't know much more about this new engine.

mjbwrtr · December 2001

shouldnt the dealership have checked and filled my oil, tranny fluid, steering fluid, and coolant before selling me the truck? my ranger was low on all but the oil and since i checked the oil and filled the steering fluid, i didnt worry about the tranny since, how often are they low? but i smelled something hot and decided to check it...sure enough, it was a 1/2 quart low. could this have hurt the tranny? in your opinion, is this something the dealership should take responsibility for? it ticks me off to have to screw around with maintenance this soon, considering they shouldnt have had it on the lot if it wasnt perfect. right?

midnight_stang · December 2001

1/2 a quart isn't much to worry about. Just something to keep an eye, as you may have a leak. I assume you did check it while hot and running.
Remember Pink or Red is good. Brown or Amber means time to flush and get new filter. Black or Burnt means time to get the checkbook handy.

First thing you would have noticed if the transmission fluid was too low was improper shifting, especially in overdrive or while engine was cold.
The only other concern would of been lack of fluid for coolant. Since automatics run transmission fluid to the radiator for cooling, a low fluid amount could have caused a 'hot smell'. But if only half a quart was the boiling point, then I would consider a secondary electric fan or transmission oil cooler (mini-radiator) or both. It's a small investment, but will lengthen the longevity of those automatics! But more than likely that smell was just spilled oil or antifreeze that was burning off the radiator or block or manifold. See if you can locate the source of the smell if it re occurs.

The dealership should have checked it, but I don't think it's a requirement on their part. But it would have been going that extra mile for the customer. Next time ask to have it checked specifically, and then it will be noted for any warranty issues.

mjbwrtr · December 2001

thanks so much for your free advice. its great to have someone so helpful, as this is my first big purchase vehicle-wise.
as i mentioned, the fluids were low and i couldnt seem to find Mercon 5 fluid. I found some plain old Mercon and so i added the 1/2 quart just so it wasnt low. the guy at Advance Auto said it wasnt a good idea at all and that i should drain it and refill with Mercon 5. is he right or just trying to sell fluid?
i have less than 10k to go, before i change it all anyway, so i may as well let the dealership drain and fill it then, right?
is 1/2 quart even enough to worry about? how close is the Mercon to the Mercon 5?
Thanks for the swift feedback and help.

mjbwrtr · December 2001

i cant tell the dealership to look at it and change it for me becasue if i admit adding the mercon, they wont honor my warranty.
and my manual says DO NOT MIX MERCON AND MERCON 5. THEY ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE.

am i screwed?

midnight_stang · December 2001

Well I don't think that will lead to a catastrophic failure, but you should take quick action. You can purchase a Ford Mercon V Supplement, which "converts" Mercon or Dextron3 to Mercon V. It will be hard to find, however.

Best bet is to just pick up a Transmission filter, pan gasket, some silicon, and a case of fluid. The manual might tell ya how much you need, or just have the dealership do the flush and filter change. They won't be able to tell about the mix-up of fluids, especially only 1/2 a quart of the mercon. Besides early maintenance is good maintenance.

mjbwrtr · December 2001

i happened to be by the dealer today and popped in to ask them the same question. they gave me the same answer. they said change it all ASAP, because i wont like what will happen if i dont. lol!
so i am arranging a visit to my favorite garage. thanks again, stang!

mjbwrtr · December 2001

another dealer said they would change out the fluid for me and change the filter, and beat my garage's price by 10 bucks, AND got it done today, not in a week like my garage. damn, this is the first time a dealership has beaten my garage. not to mention, the tech said he wouldnt mention the wrong fluid incident on the write up so i can keep my warranty. should i get this in writing? i mean, if it doesnt say it on the write-up, couldnt he just add that "detail" to another form or something and still let Ford know and i am in trouble?

midnight_stang · December 2001

But sounds like the mechanic was doing you a favor. The tech's don't really care if it's warranty work or not. They get their hours for the job performed, but the service manager will think different. Even if it ever came down to Ford voiding your warranty, it could only void the transmission warranty, nothing else.

You could worry about it, but you did all you could at this point. But you are good to go now. Have fun, and a good christmas.

mjbwrtr · December 2001

they treated me like a king. they didnt have the filter in so they gave me a focus to play with until tomorrow afternoon. what a class act! they said they would simply note what a good customer i am, changing my tranny fluid so much in advance! lol...with a smile and a wink. these people also undercut the other dealerships in price for a bedliner and accessories as well...i will definitely be returning!

tbunder · December 2001

i have a 2001 ranger 4x4 supercab 4.0 auto. i am getting crappy fuel mileage. 13.5 mpg last tank. it has 8500 miles on it. i once got 340 miles on one tank. since then, it has gone down hill. i dont haul anything and dont have a tonneau cover either. i dont drive it hard either as far as flooring it to accelerate or pass. does anyone have any suggestions? if it keeps it up, i will take it in. can they do anything to help it out? is it a computer problem or something? i use 87 octane. ive tried 90, but nothing changes. i prefer the non ethanol. ethanol is all over here in iowa. any help would be appreciated.

mjbwrtr · December 2001

maybe your oxygen sensor is bad...also, EGR or MAF is common to die off in this truck...if i were you i would take it in and let the techs hassle with it, its still under warranty.

mjbwrtr · December 2001

i had to take my ranger in for tranny service and tire rotation...i put some of the wrong kind of tranny fluid in it. they said that it would void the warranty if Ford found out, so they simply put "tranny serviced" on the receipt, and agreed to tell ford that i simply had it done early! they got me in hours after i originally called them, and the dealership didnt have the filter in so they gave me a rental for the night, paid for the rental, and when i mentioned that i had some tranny fluid at home, they said they'd use it. since i had paid for the fluid already, they rotated my tires for free! i then decided to buy a hat i saw in their shop, but the registers were closed that time of night. they lady not only remembered what hat i wanted, the next day when i went in, it was already on my invoice and in my truck! these people are great to deal with, and its nice to see such awesome customer service...they just earned a lifetime customer.

bolivar · December 2001

You've got what, a 210hp motor, dragging around 4x4 hardware. And it's a truck, which has the air flow of a brick on wheels.

My 94 2x4 Extended Cab 4L V6 gets 14.5mpg in around-town driving. BEST I've seen with 100% highway driving is about 19.5mpg.

13.5 around town isn't that bad.

And please, don't give us that "'xxx' miles on a tankfull". If you want to check the milage, fill the tank, write the milage down, drive the truck, fill the tank again, write the milage down again and the gallons to fill the tank, subtract the milage difference and divide it out - you then have an accurate milage, for that fillup.

midnight_stang · December 2001

Matt--->Sounds like you found yourself a great dealership.

tbunder--->If you want to confirm it's a computer problem, disconnect the battery overnight. The next morning your your computer should be reset as well as your radio presets

. Do you have a bit of the ole lead foot?

But unless your engine light comes on, there shouldn't be any major sensor problems. But you might attempt to clean out everything, throttle body, air filter, try a some zmax, injector cleaner or whatnot.

That's why I'm not happy about Ford dropping the 4.0l from the 4x2 regular cabs in 2002... I wanted the power, just not the weight...

mjbwrtr · December 2001

i live in ohio...we have less than 20 degrees in the morning. i get up at 4am to go to work...my 2.5 moans and complains but it hauls me to work in the frigid temps. anything i can do to extend engine life, since i have to put up with these temps? a block heater is not possible right now, but i hear its better to drive a cold engine slowly than to "warm it up" in the morning?

midnight_stang · December 2001

But just try to keep from reaching any high RPM's until after the oil has reached the heads. I see lots of people just start their car, immediately throw it in gear, and speed out of the parking lot. If the engine has been cold for a few hours, then they have little to no lubrication. Over time this could cause piston ring failure/leaking or heavy valve train wear. Synthetic engine oil does a better job of cold start protection, but nothing beats oil pouring down through the heads.

Our lil' four bangers have to rev higher to drive than larger engines, so every little bit counts. To be very safe, keep it at idle for a minute or so after startup, and under 3200 for the first 5 minutes of driving. Heck, I rarely need to go past 3000 RPM anytime...

rangerowner2 · January 2002

I need to change the spark plugs in my '95 2.3L Ranger. The set located under the intake manifold look brutal. Any suggestions or tricks to ease the process?

midnight_stang · January 2002

You just need 2 ratchet elbows and an extension or two, as well as a good spark plug ratchet socket. You can probably get by with less, just make sure you have a good 30-45 minutes to do all eight plugs. You should not have to unplug any wiring or vacuum tubes.

And small hands might help out... Or you can always do the shadetree mechanic way, and use a spare fuel line hose (about 12 inches long or so) to unscrew the plugs. Just use the ratchet socket to break the seal. Then put the hose over the top of the spark plug, nice and snug, and it should be easier to screw the plug off (or new one back on).

goldranger · January 2002

I found it easier for me to get the back left plug from the bottom. I agree with midnite stang, a small rubber hose is a must & go ahead and spring for platinum plugs. You don't want to so this more than nessary. Change/clean the PCV valve while you are that close. I seem to remember it's on the left side near or under the intake manifold.
Have fun....

midnight_stang · January 2002

Any 2002 owners with the (new) 3.0l?

midnight_stang · January 2002

n/t

mjbwrtr · January 2002

i have no complaints whatsoever (dont tell pluto) lol...
its gets around 22 mpg in mixed city and highway use, and i have been impressed with it so far.
i do find myself wishing i had bought a five speed instead of the auto, but its not a regret, more like not being used to driving an auto. five years with a stick will do that.
thanks for asking.
i have an annoying rattle coming from the right side. i think its either that the seat isnt tight to the floor or that the jack behind the seat is loose in its compartment. thats a pretty small complaint, and its my only one. hows the 1993 going?

mjbwrtr · January 2002

i was wondering...i know certain engines need more time to break in and can work better and deliver better mileage after the break in period. can you give me more info about my 2.5? i know its a derivative of your 2.3, but when does it break in and what else do you know of its longevity?

midnight_stang · January 2002

I have an automatic in my '93, and while I'm still impressed with the gas milage, I think I could take better advantage of the little 4 banger with a stick.

My next vehicle will be standard, looking at the Regular cab 3.0l Edge. So that should be a nice upgrade in power. I'm still gonna give the new 4 valve 2.3l a chance. Plus the manual transmission means my girlfriend will never want to drive the truck, oh well! I just haven't decided if I want to wait for a redesign, or for the 2003 vehicles to come out. I love my truck and I love not having car payments, so I think I'll keep on going for a year or so.

Well, the engines are pretty much the same, with your 2.5 having a longer stroke. Longevity is mostly based on driving and maintenance habits. Since 4 cylinders have to work harder than larger engines, it just depends on how high you let the RPMs go regularly. You should expect a minimum of 100,000 miles of severe driving. I've seen about 4 or 5 of them at Autozone (one of my old workplaces) go past 200,000. Just keep on top of your maintenance, by checking replacing everything on schedule. Keep a clean air filter, fuel filter, good plugs. Run synthetic oil for better cold start protection. Put zmax(This stuff is awesome) in once a year http://www.zmax.com/. Do everything you can, and it will keep running.

Breakin is a little harder to say, as I bought mine used. Typically you don't rev past 75% of redline in the first 500-750 miles. Then the next 3000-5000 miles you try to vary engine speed as much as you can, while still avoiding red-line RPM. Older engines would receive a few valve adjustments during this time, but after 5000 miles or so, the rings should be seated and the bearings broken in.

Like the lyrics by the Stray Cats song 'Rev it up and Go'

"I got a thirty nine Ford, this old heap just won't die, But I got a thirty nine Ford, this old heap just won't die, Well, this thirty nine Ford might outlive you and I..."

mjbwrtr · January 2002

thats the same thing i am thinking of doing...in a few years i will be in the market again i imagine and when i am, the 3.0 liter and stick combo is what i will be shopping for as well. i almost think i should have done that this time, but oh well.
does the 3.0 last a good ong time as well? i know a friend's taurus has like 200,000 or more on it and still alive and kicking.
a couple people have told me that the 2.3 and 2.5 are good motors and will last forever, but then some have told me that they just arent that great. i guess time will tell. this is my first four cylinder, and of course i got one with auto. DUH!

ragee · January 2002

I got a 2000 4WD with a 3.0, standard cab, it has 4.10 gears. I am having problems with detonation, and I have taken the truck in for service more times than it has been on the road. I have tried everything that the dealer has told me, since I know nothing on the matter of adjusting the timing for spark advance/retard on the computer, nor do I have one of those computers the dealer gets to do all of the work. I use this truck soely as a farm vehicle, and light duties. I was wondering if anyone else is having problems and if anyone has a fix to these problems? I drive this vehicle to town and mostly highway driving at 60 to and from. my mileage is terrible, I am getting 11Mpg in town and 15 on the highway. I very rarely get more than 260 miles per fill up, and I also have a 01 PSD and that truck gets better fuel economy, while pulling my trailer. If anyone has any comments please let me know.
rob

bolivar · January 2002

is known to ping.

About only solution is to use higher octane gasoline.

midnight_stang · January 2002

It's supposed to be revised for 2002. Better gas milage, and different peak torque and HP.

http://media.ford.com/products/presskit_display.cfm?vehicle_id=524&press_subsection_id=421&make_id=92

frey44 · January 2002

I don't want to sound like a "skipping CD", but I need some help on this.
I bought a new (in 2000) Ranger XLT, 4x4, 5 speed auto 4.0 pushrod, extended cab. It has an annoying vibration IN THE SEATS AND FLOORBOARD most noticeable in OD and at freeway speeds (of say 60 to 75). I have put on new Michelins [balanced with Hunter 9700 system], had driveshaft rebalanced, and have had the slip joint lubed on the driveshaft. It currently has about 14000 miles on it. Is there something that I am overlooking ? Could this maybe be a torque converter or tranny problem ? Tire rotation does NOT affect anything.
Could it possible be a faulty SHOCK ? Or, vibrating exhaust system ?
I am open to any ideas before I sell at a huge loss and buy another truck [which I really DO NOT want to do].

mjbwrtr · January 2002

are the v-6 engines for trucks these days that much more long-lived than four cylinders? it seems to me that no one would want a four if theyre consistently going to last 20,000 miles less and have less power and towing capacity...the only benefit is gas cost, and with the fuel-efficient v-6's out now, why even bother with the fours? maybe i should turn mine in at the end of the lease instead of buying it out like i was going to. i want a long-lasting truck, and maybe the 3.0 is the better choice?

midnight_stang · January 2002

but I'm not sure of the answer. It would make sense that a v-6 would not require as much RPM to do the same thing as the I-4 does. I still think you will get better gas milage with a 4 banger, but that can really change due to driving style. I am and have been happy with my 2.3l for the past 8 years. I just want a little more power for that daily commute to work. A 2.3/2.5l with a 5 speed manual would show a bit more power. I think any engine can last as long as you maintain it right.

fedforester · January 2002

I have a 1991 ranger 2-wheel drive, 3.0 six and standard trans. Like others this machine has had some pinging problems in hot weather, low elevations or hard pulls (other Fords seem similar) and minor oil consumption from the start. I've learned to deal with the ping (a dose of Chevron Technolene cleaner helps in the spring, I suppose cleans out carbon) and pushing throttle full down stops the ping (by inriching mixture). I now have 248,000 on the truck, its cost next to nothing for repairs, no down time, and runs as good as ever so I'm happy with it. I do sort of wonder how long they last and what breaks first (if anything) as I can not find any problems with body, drive train or anything. Oil consumption still very minor. No worries

Had a 4 cylinder (2.3 Lima) Ford Pinto 1980 which lasted till traded in a 167,000 miles and worked OK.

mjbwrtr · January 2002

today the windshield decided it would spontaneously crack about 5".
i have no idea why. the dealership said it was a "stone crack" and that they didnt have to do anything about it. i think it's something else, like the glass cracked due to the wild temperature variations we've been having, or that someone hit it. anyway, its another in a long line of disappointing incidents. i know i said i liked the truck but we STILL havent gotten our payment booklet in the mail (bought it 3 months ago), we have made countless calls to the dealership and the bank, and we dont like the four cylinder and auto combo much anymore and its only getting about 19 to 20 mpg now. this sucks. i am thinking of finageling for a 3.0 with a manual now.

kephart1 · February 2002

I just bought a 2002 Ranger Edge 4X4. The spare is a P235/75R15, the tires on the truck are P245/75R16. Has anyone tried to fit a P245/75R16 in spare hanger? Also, I was always told not to mix tires sizes or you would damage the drive train. Any thoughts on if the mixing of 16" with a 15" tires?

saddaddy · February 2002

I've heard of not having full size spares, but different wheel sizes -- LOL. Glad I got a Taco.

tbunder · February 2002

your spare is a donut, just like toyota puts on all their cars and small suv's. the tacoma has a full spare, but their tires suck unless you get the TRD package. they're car tires on a truck. saddaddy has a 2x2 pre-runner, and he may not even have a full spare. however, ford is stupid for not fitting its 4x4 rangers with full-size spares. even the new FX4 has a donut. how stupid is that. if i were you, i would buy a 31x10.50/15 and mount it on that spare. the tire sizes are identical in height, but a little different in width. but the 15 inch tire will be cheaper than locating a 16 inch rim and the 16 inch tire. this is what i did on my '01 ranger. i had 265/70/16's from the recall put on, and a 31 inch spare. these two sizes are nearly identical height and width wise. it will fit under there too. the 15 inch steel spare wheel will take a 31 inch tire. do that. good luck.

sc0rpi0 · February 2002

you don't have to get TRD to get 265s on Tacoma. You have 3 rim choices, steels, chrome and alums, and aluminium rims will also hold up to 32x11.5x15s on them.

tbunder · February 2002

please explain how a stock 16" aluminum wheel on a tacoma will hold a 32x11.5x15 like you say in two posts? after all, the only aluminum wheel offered by toyota is a 16 incher, correct? and oh, those choices. $600 just to get steel rims on a truck? plllllllease. ford puts them on standard. and they're 16 inchers. just another gouging from toyota.

sc0rpi0 · February 2002

Ok, I screwed up the tire dimensions. The stock tires are 265/70R16s on 16" alum rims.
The 32x11.5x16 tires fit on them.
The tires are all the same, the rims are just built of different material. The steel, chrome and alum rims are all 16". Beats me why a 32" fits on alum. rim only, probably alum. rims are wider so they can in fact accomodate the 32x11.5x16 tire.

Sure, Ford puts 16" rims standard. On Tacoma, for $600, you get both rims and tires for the truck (all 5 of them). However, it seems that you were the one who said "I only need 31s to compete with Tacoma". The tires you guys get in stock arent enough for you? 31x10.5x16 tires are $113 or so a piece. I say thats a hefty investment.

eharri3 · February 2002

4-cyl., 5 speed, 4x2. I'm getting a clicking sound somewhere in the steering mechanism in low speed turns. Happens mostly in cold whether just starting out but sometimes when it's already warm. Any ideas?

midnight_stang · February 2002

Might be low, or you can flush them too. Mine is a little noisy when turning the wheel in the parking lot, but still steers tight on the road.
I believe there are also a few boots on the steering input shaft. May just need a little squirt of lube.

scorpio, at least you have a clock in the Ranger that you don't pay 80 bucks extra for, and can't see while driving.

sc0rpi0 · February 2002

I agree. Oh well. I look at it when I need to, just a slight turn of the head.

tbunder · February 2002

what you smokin? they don't even make the sizes of tires that you're talking about. all the toyota rims are the same width, they wouldn't make the aluminum ones specially wider, that would cost more and call for more aluminum. a 32x11.50x16 is more likely a 265/75/16.

actually, the stock size of ranger tires are 245/75/16- this tire is 30.6 inches tall. your tacoma's tires (if you pay the minimum $600 to get them, again ford includes them standard) are 265/70/16. this size is 30.7 inches tall. a .1 inch advantage. the tacoma tire is wider though. so if you're talking stock tires to stock tires- the crappiest of the two- since the FX4 is available with the best stock tires, and the TRD is available with decent BFG tires, the crappy goodyear wrangler rt/s is tons better than those crappy dunlops coming on non aluminum rimmed tacoma's. for serious wheeling, one would switch. but one would also just buy the FX4 of TRD if they're serious wheelers. and then the range has the tacoma beat with its BFG all-terrains in your beloved size of 31x10.50x15.

Ford Ranger III

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles