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Ford Ranger III

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Comments

  • peaches5peaches5 Member Posts: 91
    Thanks for the info - makes me realize that getting the 4X4 isn't going to do much good. We now have 90 pounds of cat litter ready to load the next time the driveway's wet. Thankfully, that's the only place there's trouble, so we can keep the litter home, and only put it in the truck when it's raining/been raining. :)

    Front wheel drives make it with no problem. Even my sister's little 12 year old 4cyl Camry made it up in the rain - it wasn't HAPPY when it got to the top, and probably wouldn't have lasted more than 10 trips, but it was still a trooper :) A 2002 Maxima I rented just zoomed up with zero effort. Had I not needed the truck, I would have bought the Maxima ;)

    Thanks again for the info!
  • 1busman1busman Member Posts: 33
    peaches5, there is not subsitute for cubic inches and horepower. Seriously, I don't think 90 lbs is enough, I would try 200 lbs. One thing you might what to remember is that a good even load in the bed will also help when braking in the wet. I had a couple of occasions when I just couldn't stop. One time I tried to stop for a light that was turning red and the truck just slid right into the intersection. I thought for sure I was going to be in an accident, but everyone that was at that intersection saw me coming and waited. It was like driving on ice, it really scared me and that's when I put the weight in the back. You can't understand unless you're been there.
  • peaches5peaches5 Member Posts: 91
    What are you keeping in there that's 200 pounds?
  • 1busman1busman Member Posts: 33
    peaches5, I wapped bags of sand in heavy duty plastic secured with tape. Then I placed one bag in front and behind each wheel well. I made a frame out of two by fours to keep the bags from sliding around. This may seem excessive but the whole project only took 2-3 hours. Home depot has 60 pound sand bags for about 3 dollars ( 4x60 =240 lbs). When wet they are a whole lot heavier. The 2x4's were $2.75 each( you only need 3) and the tarp was another 10 bucks. If you have a shell on your truck you may not need the tarp. At the end of the rainy season you can either store the bags on the side of your house for next year or spread the sand all over your lawn. For a couple of years I bolted two 125 pound steel plates to the bed. My dad got them for free overwise I would have stayed with the sand.
  • peaches5peaches5 Member Posts: 91
    Many thanks! My mind doesn't think like that :( but thankfully, my son who's driving the truck for awhile can do exactly what you mentioned. :)
  • mmccloskeymmccloskey Member Posts: 168
    Greetings:

    I am considering a 1999 Ranger Xtracab 4x2 but have some concerns regarding the handling issues in wet weather noted on this forum.
    This '99 ranger has 3.0 V-6, Auto, A/C, cruise/tilt, AM-FM/Casette/CD, sliding rear window, bed liner and Alloy wheels. The truck is in excellent condition with 39,600 miles and is going for $8,500.00. This truck is to suppliment my new car for general use and light duty hauling. I consider this to be a good deal but the issue of handling in wet weather concerns me.

    My driving style is generally smooth but I am unsure of the Rangers reactions when the pavement is wet.

    Thanks for any comments current Ranger owners can provide.

    Regards -

    M. J. McCloskey
  • peaches5peaches5 Member Posts: 91
    If you're referring to my posts, I assure you, my driveway is NOT typical of anyone's driving habits. It is VERY steep and I've had to have several cars towed out (I live on a lake and people see the lake and think it's the road for public access - who knows why.....). If you're not talking about my posts, I'll let others address the wet road issue - just wanted to make sure you realized my problem is unusual ;)
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    I own a 2000 extended cab, 4.0 4x4. I have driven literally 98% of the time in 2x4. I have Michelin LTX's on it. I have never experienced traction problems in the wet (other than when towing a boat in high wind). I attribut that to quality tires. My porblems have been vibration at highway speeds, a well-documented Ranger idiosyncracy. Just MAKE SURE you test drive the truck at speeds for an EXTENDED period of time; make sure it does not shake in the 55-7- MPH range, especially in the floorboards and front window pillars (where it can be felt). If it does, you may have the infamous driveshaft problem.
    Good luck. A great truck, and a great engine...easily getting 200 000 miles with regular oil changes..IMHO.
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    http://auto.consumerguide.com/auto/new/reviews/full/index.cfm/id/23217.htm
  • 1busman1busman Member Posts: 33
    I have a 2001 Ranger XLT Extended Cab 4X4 4Dr, with the SOHC 4.0, 5 spd Auto and limited slip. I haven't had any problems in the wet. After all the problems I had with my 1981 Toyota 4X4 I was a little concerned. Mine has a shell on it and the Ranger is a bit heavier than the old Toyota. Just remember that when driving in the wet your supposed to use a little common sense, no matter what the vehicle is. I don't think you'll have any problems, if you do try the sandbag routine. By the way this really isn't a ranger issue, all trucks are light in the rear and have the same problems. One last thing I would like to say is after 26,000 miles this has been one great truck!!
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    It's a truck.

    1busman covered it in his post, trucks are light in the rear.

    Wet weather doesn't mean they will just jump off the road, but you should not drive a truck like a sports car. You actually shouldn't drive it like most cars, THEY ARE LIGHT IN THE BACK!

    Now in snow conditions, a truck will definitely have much less traction than the usual front wheel drive car.

    When snow time comes, put weight in the back. I recommend AT LEAST 250 pounds. Get bags of sand or gravel from the local home improvement outlet. When spring comes, take them out, save for next year.
  • mmccloskeymmccloskey Member Posts: 168
    Greetings:



    image


    Thanks to all for your input regarding my inquiries about the 1999 Ranger XLT ExtraCab that I eventually bought. It's got 39,670 miles, auto, 3.0 V6, A/C, alloy wheels, cruise/tilt, AM-FM/Casette/CD (Premium Sound), sliding rear window and bed liner. It's in super shape and runs like new. I paid $8,500.00 which I think is a good deal since the truck is just getting broken in. I drove it on the highway at 55-60mph and didn't notice any 'shake' that someone described in a previous post. This truck will allow me to keep my new car 'new' longer and provide more versatility in doing things my car can't.


    The only thing I don't like are those dinky 'flag' mirrors which vibrate and don't provide enough of a view. Are there 'sport' mirrors that I can replace the flag mirrors with? I don't have the power package (windows, doors, mirrors) so they would have to be manually adjusted but bigger.


    Thanks -


    M. J. McCloskey

  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    My favorite along with that pretty metallic blue. As far as mirrors, maybe you could go with Ford parts from salvage, as opposed to aftermarket items. The Ford parts would fit and look best. You chould get many miles out of that 3.0, a great little motor. (I know of a '97 3.0 with 240K on it, and still original motor other than the alternator,by having gotten 3K mile oil changes with Castrol during its life !) Best of luck...a nice find for you.
  • mmccloskeymmccloskey Member Posts: 168
    I've had my '99 ranger for about a week now and am really pleased with it. I checked my mileage on the last fillup and am getting about 22mpg with the 3.0 V-6 and auto - not too shabby. The truck isn't as smooth and quiet as my new Lexus, and the mileage isn't as good, but I still enjoy driving it and look forward to many years of service.

    Anyway, I was wondering if any of you Ranger owners with the manual windows know how to remove the regulator/crank. I want to replace those dinky 'flag' mirrors with the larger OEM mirrors and I need to remove the window crank to get the door panel off. I don't have the power pkg but will use these mirrors and tuck in the cable and adjust the mirror manually as necessary for a better view.

    Thanks to all for any input/tips.

    Regards -

    M.J. McCloskey - '99 Ranger xtracab
  • eharri3eharri3 Member Posts: 640
    Little sis is in My 95 Regular cab Ranger with her boyfriend at a light. A couple in a similarly equipped S10 pull next to her. I guess they saw the cosmetic mods and blue oval decal in the rear window and assumed my Sister is a Ford fanatic or something. They start hooting and hollering about how Ford Sucks and Chevy rules and my sister should race them. My sister just sits there and pays them no mind.

    Keep in mind, this is a 30-something couple from her description basically making a fool of themselves in public, and she being a 19 year old teenager has the maturity to not respond in kind. Plus she also could care less about Chevy vs. Ford, a truck's a truck to her, my parents' car was tied up so she just took my wheels cause they were free.

    So anyway cross light turns yellow. The S10 revs that little 2.2 like crazy. My sister stares straight ahead and says absolutely nothing but gives it just a tiny rev to get the S10 driver even more worked up. Light turns green. S10 lays about 10 feet of rubber and wastes 2 gallons of gas before it is forced to slow suddenly behind a slow moving truck. My sister immediately turns right, which she had been planning to do all along and goes on her merry way.
  • burkart83burkart83 Member Posts: 2
    Hello all, I just bought a 99 Ranger XLT 4X4 3.0 Auto. Can anyone tell me what the Off Road package consists of? I have searched around and have not found much luck. Any help is appreciated.
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    I think the offroad package includes the following: vinyl fender flares, larger tires, upgraded shocks, 4.11 rearend, and a skid plate and tow hooks.
  • peaches5peaches5 Member Posts: 91
    We bought 200 pounds of sand, my son wrapped the bags up in a plastic tarp, and bungee corded them into the truck so they're just above the wheels :) So far, so good. This morning it's pouring down rain and had been all night. There was SOME slippage going up the driveway, but it was minimal, and more importantly, the truck DID get up the driveway :) We'll probably try another 50 pounds and new tires will be on soon.

    My son drives into the Atlanta suburbs for school - I wonder how long it will take someone to steal the "package" - and be in for a huge surprise when they find out they lugged out 200 pounds of sand ;)))

    Thanks for everyone's advice - it helped!!
  • 1busman1busman Member Posts: 33
    glad to here the sand is helping. good tires will help, try looking at some past issues of comsumer reports (at the library) for some input on tires that have good traction in the rain. I have goodyear rt/s's and they seem to work great.
  • martinlwmartinlw Member Posts: 7
    The Ranger manual recommends 5W-20 oil for the 3.0L engine. I live in a hot climate and wonder if the recommended weight would be appropriate for my truck.
    Why the low weight?
  • 1busman1busman Member Posts: 33
    read your owners manual, it should tell you the proper weight oil to use based on climate and driving conditions. the reason for the lighter weight oils is to lower the friction within the engine. therefore, it's supposed to improve gas mileage. using 5w-30 probably won't hurt anything.
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    I use 5-20 Motorcraft (Ford) brand in my 2000 4.0 Ranger with good results [I think it is made by ExxonMobil...but I cannot find the link where I read that]. It has been thoroughly tested by Ford. My gas mileage has improved by about 0.3 mpg overall, and most likely that would be more in cold weather (I live in Ohio). I also think that Havoline, and possibly Pennzoil, make oils in that weight now.
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    TSB from FMC:
    Veh. App. Listing Approved For SAE 5W-20 Motor Oil
    ^ 1993-1996 1.9L Escort/Tracer

    ^ 1995-2000 2.0L Zetec Contour/Mystique

    ^ 1999-2002 2.0L Cougar

    ^ 1997-2002 2.0L Escort/Tracer

    ^ 1998-2002 2.0L Escort ZX2

    ^ 2000-2002 2.0L Focus

    ^ 2001-2002 2.0L Escape

    ^ 1993-1997 2.3L Ranger

    ^ 1993-1994 2.3L Mustang

    ^ 1993-1994 2.3L Tempo/Topaz

    ^ 1998-2001 2.5L Ranger

    ^ 1995-2000 2.5L Contour/Mystique

    ^ 1999-2002 2.5L Cougar

    ^ 2001-2002 3.0L 4V Escape

    ^ 1996-2001 3.0L 4V Taurus/Sable

    ^ 1993-2002 3.0L (Vulcan) Aerostar/Ranger,

    ^ Taurus/Sable (Flexible Fuel and Gas)

    ^ 1995-2000 3.0L (Vulcan) Windstar

    ^ 1993-1994 3.0L (Vulcan) Tempo/Topaz

    ^ 2000-2002 3.0L 4V Lincoln LS

    ^ 1995-2002 3.8L Windstar

    ^ 1993-1997 3.8L Taurus/Sable,

    ^ Thunderbird/Cougar, Continental

    ^ 1994-2002 3.8L Mustang

    ^ 2002-2002 3.9L 4V Lincoln LS

    ^ 1997-2002 4.2L (SPI) F-150 (under 8500 GVW
    only), E-Series

    ^ 1996-2002 4.6L 2V Mustang

    ^ 1992-2002 4.6L Crown Victoria/Grand Marquis

    ^ 1991-2002 4.6L Town Car

    ^ 1994-1997 4.6L 2V Thunderbird/Cougar

    ^ 1996-2002 4.6L 4V Mustang Cobra

    ^ 1995-2002 4.6L 4V Continental

    ^ 1993-1998 4.6L 4V Mark VIII

    ^ 1997-2002 4.6L 2V Triton F-150/250 (under 8500
    GVW only), E-Series, Expedition

    ^ 1993-1999 4.9L E-Series, F-Series

    ^ 1993-1995 5.0L Mustang/Mustang Cobra

    ^ 1993-1993 5.0L Thunderbird/Cougar

    ^ 1997-2001 5.0L Explorer/Mountaineer

    ^ 1993-1996 5.0L E-Series, F-Series, Bronco

    ^ 2000-2002 5.4L Excursion

    ^ 1998-2002 5.4L 2V/4V Navigator

    ^ 1997-2002 5.4L 2V F-1501250 (under 8500
    GVW only), Expedition, E-Series, E-350
    Chassis/RV/Cutaway

    ^ 1993-1997 5.8L F-Series, Bronco

    ^ 1993-1996 5.8L E-Series

    ^ 2000-2002 6.8L Excursion

    ^ 1997-2002 6.8L E-Series, E-350
    Chassis/RV/Cutaway

    ^ 1999-2002 6.8L Super Duty F-Series 250
    HD/350/450/550 Motorhome

    ^ 1993-1998 7.5L All Vehicles

    NOTE FOR 1993 THROUGH 1998 MODEL YEAR FFV USE XO-10W30-FFV.

    NOTE THE "EXCEPTION 2001-2002 VEHICLES" SHOULD BE SERVICED WITH SAE 5W-30 MOTOR OIL
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    This is a TSB published AFTER the one I just posted. Sorry for confusion:

    Engine Oil - Oil Recommendations/Applications
    Article No.
    02-1-9

    01/21/02
    ENGINE - ENGINE OIL - RECOMMENDED
    APPLICATIONS FOR SAE 5W-20 AND SAE 5W-30
    MOTOR OILS - GASOLINE AND FLEXIBLE FUEL
    VEHICLES ONLY

    FORD:
    1992-2002 CROWN VICTORIA
    1993-1994 TEMPO
    1993-1997 THUNDERBIRD
    1993-2002 ESCORT, MUSTANG, TAURUS
    1995-2000 CONTOUR
    1998-2002 ESCORT ZX2
    2000-2002 FOCUS
    1993-1996 BRONCO
    1993-1997 AEROSTAR
    1993-2002 E SERIES, F-150, RANGER
    1995-2002 WINDSTAR
    1997-1999 F-250 LD
    1997-2001 EXPLORER
    1997-2002 EXPEDITION
    1999-2002 SUPER DUTY F SERIES, SUPER DUTY F-53 STRIPPED CHAS.
    2000-2002 EXCURSION
    2001-2002 ESCAPE

    LINCOLN:
    1991-2002 TOWN CAR
    1993-1998 MARK VIII
    1993-2002 CONTINENTAL
    2000-2002 LS
    1998-2002 NAVIGATOR

    MERCURY:
    1992-2002 GRAND MARQUIS
    1993-1994 TOPAZ
    1993-1997 COUGAR
    1993-1999 TRACER
    1993-2002 SABLE
    1995-2000 MYSTIQUE
    1999-2002 COUGAR
    1997-2001 MOUNTAINEER

    This article is being republished in its entirety to update the vehicle models, engines and years affected.
    NOTE PLEASE REFER TO THE VEHICLE APPLICATION LIST LATER IN THIS TSB FOR A COMPLETE LIST OF VEHICLES AFFECTED BY THIS TSB.

    ISSUE
    Ford Motor Company now recommends SAE 5W-20 viscosity grade for servicing most gasoline and flexible fueled vehicles.

    ACTION
    All 2001 and 2002 vehicles where SAE 5W-20 is specified should be serviced at the recommended oil change intervals using SAE 5W-20. This oil is an improved formulation to improve fuel economy.

    Testing has validated this viscosity grade can be used in many previous model year vehicles. It is recommended ALL vehicles on the following Vehicle Application Listing be service with SAE 5W-20.

    All 2001-2002 vehicles other than those listed in the "Exception 2001 Vehicles" or "Exception 2002 Vehicles" chart are being filled with SAE 5W-20 motor oil at the factory and should also be serviced with SAE 5W-20 oil.

    WARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLY
    OASIS CODES: 401000, 490000, 497000, 499000
    Copyright © 2002 ALLDATA LLC
    Terms of Use
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    ..includes 2001-02 Rangers. In other words, if you have a 4.0 2001 or 2002 Ranger, as of the time of this TSB, it recommends NOT using 5-20. CHECK WITH YOUR FORD DEALER for most recent info before doing this, IN MY OPINION.
  • martinlwmartinlw Member Posts: 7
  • nerdnerd Member Posts: 203
    5W-30 oil is specified for my 2002 Mazda with the 4.0L engine.
  • campoutcampout Member Posts: 22
    Hello to everyone on the list. My wife and I currently own a '97 Ford F-150 and we are thinking of downsizing to a Ranger because we just don't need that big of a truck anymore. After reading some of these post it seems like the 3.0 engine isn't the way to go. This truck we are looking at has this engine with a 4:10 LS rear end. We will be doing occasional towing and light duty hauling. The price is good, 19k and some change for this vehicle. Sorry for such a long post, but any info. would be appreciated. Thanking in advance.

    Sincerely,
    Paul
  • scape2scape2 Member Posts: 4,123
    Proud owner of a 1998 Ranger 4x4 3.0 supercab stepside.. 70,000miles and still runs like new!!
    never a problem, just routine maintenance/upkeep.
    campout.. get the 4.0 SOHC.. the power diff/towing ability is better, mpg difference is not much either.. you won't be sorry.
  • brucelincbrucelinc Member Posts: 815
    Last week, I bought a 2001 4X4 Supercab with the SOHC 4.0, 5 speed automatic, and 4.10 limited slip gear. It only has 13,000 miles on it but had kind of a "lag" in the drivetrain. The dealer replaced the steel driveshaft with a new aluminum shaft under warranty and now the truck is smooth, quiet, and tight.

    I have had Rangers with the 2.9 and the 3.0 and never had problems with either of them. However, the SOHC 4.0 is a big step forward, IMHO. It is nearly as smooth as my Lincoln LS V8 and has good low end torque as well as plenty of punch at higher speeds.
  • doctdoct Member Posts: 20
    Has anyone changed their manual for power windows or locks? I am looking for a good aftermarket kit for a 2002 ranger.... thanks
  • jaguar0027jaguar0027 Member Posts: 387
    My brother has a 2001 Ranger XLT, 5 speed with the 4.0 liter engine. He has about 18,000 miles on it and it seems like it needs some shocks.

    I was wondering if any of you Ranger owners could suggest replacement shocks. Should he go with Bilstein, Rancho, Edelbrock? Or some other type/brand? Any thoughts/opinions would be appreciated.

    Thanks in advance,

    Jim
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    ..skip the Ranchos [no comparison to Edelbrocks]. The premium shocks are well worth the extra money.
  • jaguar0027jaguar0027 Member Posts: 387
    I will let him know. Edelbrocks are the most expensive though right?
  • martinlwmartinlw Member Posts: 7
    Has anyone had their Ranger oil tested to confirm the validity of their oil change interval? I've been reading about engine wear testing that has indicated that the popular 3,000 mile interval for "severe" use may be too short. Oil testing can determine whether or not the oil is still useable. It seems that today's oils may have a longer life.

    How important is it to use a time interval for oil changes? In the past, I've had vehicles with less than 3,000 miles at six months and have put off the change. Does oil actually breakdown significantly over time when there is very little mileage accumulated?
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    From what I have read, one factor you should think about is water CONDENSATION in the crankcase of the motor during long interfals of time (regardless of mileage). Water invasion will cause signficant foaming and acid formation (from what I have read) and can degrade the lubricating potential of modern oils. High mileage motors may be more likely to incur this problem than new engines. That is one reason that oil change intervals are recommended, for example, at 6 months, even if you only have 1000 miles on the vehicle at that inerval. Just a thought, and my opinion. I will try to seek out links to confirm my post. I personally change oil at 3000 to 4000, regardless of time period. Just for my own peace of mind (i.e. oil is cheaper than rebuilding an engine).
  • martinlwmartinlw Member Posts: 7
    Here's an article on oil change intervals and engine wear you might find interesting.


    http://www.xs11.com/stories/croil96.shtml

  • fedforesterfedforester Member Posts: 16
    Took delivery of a new 2003 ranger with a 2.3 4-cylinder, 2-wheel drive about two weeks ago and couldn't be happier. Looks like about 30 mpg in mixed driving and about the same power-feel as my old 3.0 liter (kept to 267,000 miles)probably because of modern engine plus light weight. Noticed throttle sticking on idle, making for jerky starts and acceleration in town---easily cured by setting up the idle screw on the throttle body just slightly so throttle is cracked open a bit more on idle. Otherwise not a screw out of place. Happy with Continental tires--glad to get rid of Firestone.
  • martinlwmartinlw Member Posts: 7
    Ford recommends a first coolant change at 45,000 miles, air and fuel filters at 30,000. These seem like long intervals. 45,000 miles could easily be 3 years for some vehicles. Is the factory coolant something extraordinary? Is fuel cleaner than it used to be? Why doesn't Ford use time intervals with their suggested maintenance schedules?
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    Antifreeze is cheap. I change mine each fall, using distilled water to mix the 50% mix. As far as tranny fluid, I will change mine at half of the recomended interval (again, cheap inusrance). Thanks for the link to the CR article on oil; very interesting. They seem to think that ANY SAE certified oil is fine; they are probably right. Peace, bro.
  • mmccloskeymmccloskey Member Posts: 168
    Greetings:

    I've had my 1999 Ranger S/C 4x2 (3.0, auto, premium sound, etc.) for almost 8 weeks and really like it - I bought it used. I'm getting 22mpg (90% highway driving) and have no problems/issues with the truck. The tires, Firestone Wilderness (225-70R15 on alloy wheels) are original (41.5K miles) and look to go quite awhile longer. The truck rides fine and handles good (for a truck) and the tires seem to grip rather well in wet and dry conditions.

    In getting replacement tires, should I stay with the OEM type-tire or get more of a passenger car type tire of the same size. As this is only a 4x2 driven on paved roads, I see no need to get big truck tires but I don't want to alter the driving characteristics.

    Thanks in advance for any info/advice -

    M.J. McCloskey
  • mkstfmkstf Member Posts: 12
    can anyone tell me what the max payload for a ranger 4x4 is ???? is it considered a 1/2 ton truck or less???? thanks !!
  • eharri3eharri3 Member Posts: 640
    My 95 4-banger hit 90K the other day. I know, I know, low mileage compared to what some of the rest of you have put on cars and trucks, but still quite a milestone for me considering I was brought up by negligent car owners who had trouble getting a vehicle to last past 90K. In my paranoia I expected some kind of catastrophic break-down when the odometer switched from 89999 to 90000, but of course nothing happened and it still purrs about smoothly as that rather coarse 2.3 can.

    Oil changes have been mostly 5K except for when I got back from study abroad and learned it mostly sat still from September to late December, so I figured it might not be a bad idea to put new oil in early. Since then at 77K it's been 3 thousand mile interval just because I didnt want to waste money doing it too soon again or leave old oil in for over 7K to get back on the normal schedule. After changing the oil and fuel filters tomorrow Im gonna go back to the normal 5 thousand mile intervals and plan how to celebrate when it rolls over 100K.
  • mjbwrtrmjbwrtr Member Posts: 172
    keep going, because that engine is known to go 180k sometimes, if you keep changing the oil and being nice to it. :)
  • dmoulddmould Member Posts: 76
    M.J. McCloskey
    The Firestone Wilderness is a passenger car tire. You should stick with another P225 tire to maintain the good handling and ride in your Ranger.

    Payload - 1/2 ton = 1000 pounds. The payload on a stock Ranger 4x2 is 1260 pounds. 1560 pounds on a 4x4 SuperCab. The Ranger payload rating is actually almost the same a full-size 1500 trucks.
  • babaausbabaaus Member Posts: 10
    So I almost bought a '00 Merc Sable wagon with a 24v OC V6, today, but my mechanic talked me out of it. Knowing my predication to drive cars "into the ground" he suggested I consider a 3.0 V6 Ranger 2WD with Xcab. So I drove a new one of those, today, too and sure thought it was groovy. BUT, having started way back at the beginning of this thread and hopscotching through, I don't think the Ranger will be a good application for minimum 130 mile per day commuting and the sudry little trips in between. Damn glad you all have taken the time to post your ideas and experiences here. Guess CR was right. Ford makes the F-150 right but beware the others. Thank you, thank you, thank you. If'n ever I bump into ya, I'll buy ya a beer.

    Happy Motoring!
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    In my opinion, from reading this message board and a couple others that are strictly Ford Ranger boards and owning a 1994 4L Extended cab Ranger for the last 5 years, I think Rangers are very good small trucks.

    There are 2 main negatives things to consider:
    1) It's a truck. The milage will be terrible.
    2) The 3L engine is known, for a large percentage of them, to ping. About the only solution is to use higher octane fuel.

    Other than this, with good care, a Ranger 3L should give you very good service for 175,000 miles.
  • midnight_stangmidnight_stang Member Posts: 862
    I am looking at a Ford Ranger 2d regular cab Edge, 3.0l v6, 5 speed manual, 6 disc changer, cruise and tilt for $14,481 out the door. 100 bucks over invoice and 2000 dollar rebate. (not counting trade in) Only thing missing that I wanted was power windows and locks. Sounds pretty good to me, any thoughts?
  • dre10dre10 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1999 V6 XLT Regular Cab Ranger with around 40,100 miles on it. I live in Chicago and I'm going to be moving to San Diego, CA late February. The trips about 2085 miles. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I sorta maintenance I should do before I head out? What's the longest I should drive before giving my Ranger a rest?

    Any help would make my move that much smoother. Thanks!
  • midnight_stangmidnight_stang Member Posts: 862
    Start with an oil change, clean air filters, check belts, air pressure, tire wear, rear end lube, transmission oil level and condition, battery power and electrolite level, radiator hoses, coolant fluid level. Most of this is done during a full inspection at just about any car shop. You can also do all of it yourself, if so inclined. Just check your manual for the 3-5,000 mile scheduled services, and check the items listed in your next maintenance cycle. Either way I would perform any maintenance due during or after your trip now, so you don't have to worry about anything that is due to be replaced or maintained.

    And you should need the rest before the Ranger ever will. Just keep an eye on the guages here and there, and check fluids on your pit stops for any changes.
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