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the other issue is that with TBI it could be the TBI itself or the idle position sensor.
In any case, a shop with diagnostic computer can do the checks.
Best
Mark Heilman
94 Suburban Columbus MT 59019
Does this sound like a bad control unit? I've heard that the early ones had "squirrelly" problems but I'm not sure that this is one of them. Thanks. Lewis
If you have a fuel pump / flow problem an easy thing to do is to measure fuel line pressure by the engine. For this you need to buy a fuel pressure gauge (one that has the purge valve with drain hose attached) and measure the fuel pressure as you crank the engine. If pressure does not come up then you are not getting fuel from the pump. You said you replaced the pump already so I wouldn't think this is the issue.
The second thing the engine needs to run is a spark. It is not possible to see the spark when you crank the engine other than you need to get an extra spark plug (or spark tester) and hook it up with a spark plug wire. If you have spark in one of the cylinders you then probably have it in all of them. Of course you could have a 'cold' cylinder but as I understand it doesn't even try to start you might not have spark at all. If spark is missing check the coil and distributor (I assume '93 model still has these).
If you have spark then you need to check that your injectors work. With fuel pressure and spark present the thing left to check is that the fuel can enter inside the cylinder for the spark to ignite. I don't know how to check for injector voltage. For that you might need to take it to a dealer. And if the injectors don't 'fire' you could need a new computer in your vehicle.
All of your trouble could also be cause by a simple grounding problem. Make sure your engine and chassis grounds are good.
Arrie
:confuse:
thanks
Jeff Janes
Arnold8169@charter.net
Those individual wet spark plugs would indicate which cylinders are drawing in coolant and causing you all of the headaches.
Does anyone have this problem too? The truck (SUV) is close to 62000 mileages
I've been hoping GM will get the fix out soon, my fuel pump is very loud and I'd like to wait for the fix to replace my fuel pump.
Goodluck
TIA,
B
I'm fairly certain that the next boat and trailer will exceed 10,000 lbs. so I'm considering the 3/4 ton Suburban or Yukon XL. When equipped with the biggest engine they sell (I think it's an 8.1 liter), and whatever other equipment necessary, it can tow up to 12,000 lbs.
Here are my questions:
1. Has anyone driven a newer (2003 or newer) 1500 and compared it to a 2500? I'm sure that the 2500 is not as smooth, but can it be used as a dialy commuting vehicle?
The problem I'm having is that my wife has always wanted a convertable, and we're going to get her one and sell the minivan. If I want to tow my boat to the ocean (I live in Georgia), I have to get a tow vehicle which by its nature isn't the best for a daily commuter (bad gas mileage, comfort, etc.).
2. Is there any other SUV that will tow that much, be a comfortable family highway cruiser (for times that I don't take my boat) and be able to have all of the creature comforts (DVD player, etc), and gets the same or better mileage??
I looked at the Armada/Infinity, which seems like a good alternative (despite all of the problems people say it has, I would at least look into it), but it only tows 9100lbs. I know that's a lot, but if I want a bigger boat, I need more than a 9100lb towing capacity.
3. I thought about getting an older 2500 and a third car, but I have no room in my driveway and can't park in front of my house. Does anyone know whether any company out there rents tow vehicles for boats? I called around and everyone seems to say that you can rent a vehicle to tow your car using their (Uhaul, Ryder, etc.) equipment, but nobody that rents a truck or sub to tow a boat with your trailer.
Based on my research, other than a heavy duty pick-up truck (we need more people room than any such truck would have) or Excursion or big van, there's nothing else to consider. An Excursion won't fit in my garage, and I really don't like the way it looks.
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
Does anyone have this problem too? The truck (SUV) is close to 62000 mileages
I have a 1/2 ton '00 Suburban that I use to tow our 4600lb boat. I wouldn't want to tow much more than this with the 5.3L. It just doesn't have enough torque for pulling up grades. I recently briefly towed a friends 7000lb cruiser with his 3/4 ton Silverado w/ 8.1 allison trans. Wow, what a difference. That combo pulls 7000lbs much better than my Suburban towing 4600lbs.
An Armada will pull your current setup w/o a problem. I did test drive one, and that is by far the best powertrain setup currently available in a 1/2 ton SUV. Great transmission and Nissan's 5.6 v8 just cranks out torque. I was shocked by how fast that truck is. I got back in my Suburban and it felt very slow.
The problem with the 3/4 ton SUV/truck is fuel economy, they're a lot heavier and with a 6.0 or 8.1 they get pretty dismal fuel economy. The only way around that is to go diesel which leaves you with a 3/4 truck or an Excursion.
Everything is a compromise and their isn't a perfect vehicle that will do everything. I'd guess a 3/4 ton Suburban/Yukon XL is your best bet. It won't ride as nice, but you'll have more towing power, bigger brakes and a stronger transmission. I've already rebuilt the l460e in my 1/2 ton burb at 46k miles.
I've not sampled a 3/4 ton Suburban, but I've read on other message boards, that everyone likes them for everyday driving and towing. The real issue is fuel economy, because with an 8.1 (which is what you need) it will drink gas.
Congrats on the new boat and good luck regarding the tow vehicle.
I don't know of any rental companies that will let you rent an SUV to tow.
Any direction or contacts/information would be appreciated.
Lewis
Thanks
The '99 4wd felt very soft in the rear end and performed as you stated above. Living in the Poconos Mountains at the time, I felt this was unacceptable behavior. My neighbor taught auto mechanics at the area community college and he took it in to their shop and adjusted the torsion bars slightly unevenly to compensate for the usual crown of two-lane roads. This helped -- so did new Good Year tires with a highway tread. There was still slewing on slippery surfaces and unpredictable behavior in slipstreams from large trucks. I added one full leaf to each rear spring bundle at a truck suspension shop and all problems were solved. Plus, when I towed anything, it behaved much better and got better gas mileage.
My '04 is now exhibiting some instability when my heavy trailer isn't attached. I had installed airbags integral to the newer coil suspension and that made a huge difference, even when not towing. I am convinced that the torsion bars must be adjusted to copmpensate for road crown and that Firestone/Bridgestone tires perform OK for the first 30,000 miles. At 46,000 mine are cupping and requiring inflation to the sidewall limit. You can bet I'll put something else on there this winter. But that reminds me -- NEVER OPERATE YOUR SUBURBAN AT THE TIRE PRESSURE RECOMMENDED ON THE DOOR JAMB!! This will give a nice ride, but terrible handling! If you carry more than 300 lbs (two small adults) in the wagon, you must inflate your tires closer to maximum branded on the sidewall! If you carry maximum load, you must inflate to maximum pressure for better handling, durability, gas mileage and safety. If you tow, try 2lbs less air in the front tires than the rear. I carry a small 12VDC air compressor under the small 2nd row fold-down seat. I also had a compressor with a dash mounted gauge and switch installed to regulate rear suspension pressure from inside the vehicle. And don't forget -- temperature dramatically affects tire pressure! Read this section in your manual. My wife has a nasty habit of taking both hands off the wheel to do something while she's driving (if she feels the unit is stable) and it tracks straight for up to half a mile with no correction, even towing. Check those tires and try air bags or firmer rear shocks. Both are cheap add-ons for benefit gained. S.
My 95, 2500, 350cc, 4x4 suburban has a problem with overheating. It seems to rise all the way to the danger zone 260 degrees after I drive it for a few miles then drops below 200. It swings back and forth on the guage for a minute or two and then settles down at around 208 degrees and is fine after than. The radiator, h2o pump, themostat, and hoses are less than one year old. We just put in a 195 thermostat last weekend when the problem started. The oil looks good and I'm stumped as to why it's taking so long for the thermostat to open up? Could the guage just be wrong? It's a 195 thermostat but the guage reads a consistant 210. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Jeff
As info, my truck has 87000 miles on it, and i did replace the fuel filter.
I know have 43 degree air blowing cold!
Don't wait to have it fixed or do not run the AC until fixed. If the compressor fails there is a about $1000 worth of work to do to purge the AC system of any metal particles caused by a compressor failure.
I need a 2nd tank for mine. I have the 43gallon tank in the back. Need a side mount tank, looks like there is plenty of room. I've been looking at junk yards, I see no Suburbans with side-mount tanks.
Is there a good aftermarket side mount tank that anyone knows of?
Any help would be appreciated.
Shawn
the other day ,I noticed the head light on drivers side started flickering.I dont know if it was doing this before or not.Now both head lights will go out and come back on.Has anybody else had this problem.Any ideas on the problem.
I had one person tell me the light switch was bad,and one person told me the light switch would not affect it like this.The day time running lights go off and on as well.I am baffled.Please help..........Jeff Jones
Thanks
S.
This does not happen going to the left. We have had the alignment checked, the steering box and a pitman arm replaced and it still has this problem. Any suggestions on what this could be and what might be done next? The mechanic said that everything is tight on the front end.
Thanks for the help.
Did you check your tires/wheels to see if either/both are true? Nothing wrong with the rear axle/tires/wheels?
went to fold in my mirrors today and the passenger one just 'went floppy'
no tension.
i can't figure out how to remove the glass to get in there to fix the cap on the spring or to see what is wrong....
any help appreciated!
thanks,
brian
I am a Canadian owner of a 2001 Chevrolet Suburban 2500 LT and we have a serious problem with the vehicle. It stalls while driving on the road and by doing that it can cause a very serious danger on the road. I found on the internet that there is an recall for the 2001 Chev. Suburbans but the recall is only for US owners of the Suburban (316508 vehicles). The same for the Tahoe, Yukon, Silverado etc. I can't imagine that only US owners have that problem since all the vehicles are built in the same plant and should have the same potential problem.
I also can't imagine that Canadian lives are less valuable as US lives in the eyes of GM, although it seems like it.
Are there any Canadian owners of a 2001 Suburban or any other GM vehicle that have the same problem among you ? Maybe we can join forces and do something about this injustice. :mad: