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I just put my 79 in the newspaper today - Like I told my wife, one looks and feels great sitting still, the other looks rough but runs!
http://www.michelinman.com/catalog/tires/MichelinLTXMS.html?tiretype=5&tire=1
Now all you need is popcorn and Barney... depending on how old the kids are... or was this for your wife?
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/results.cfm
1. You could have what is known as a RADIAL PULL,.. this happens when the belts in the tire are not correct within the tire. A quick check would be to take your front 2 tires and swap them left to right and right to left. If your vehicle stops pulling to the right you have found the problem.
2. The other explaination is your vehicle needs a front end alignment. Your CASTER angle adjustment is off. this could come from hitting the curb with some force or a bad chuck hole. In the alignment process the R/S adjustment is always more positive than the left (usually by 1/2 a degree or so) this is intentionally done so as to compensate for the crown in the road.
Try the tire swap first and if doesn't cure the problem go to a reliable front end shop and have your alignment at least checked. Caster is a NON-tire wearing angle of adjustment. If your noticing the inside or outside tread of your tires wearing out more than the rest of the tire then that is called the CAMBER angle and it WILL wear out your tires. Normally if one angle changes,.. it will effect all of the angle adjustments ( IE: Camber, Caster & toe -in )
The best tire for the kind of driving you described in my opinion is Nokian WR. It is an all season tire with just superion grip in wet and snow and of course on dry. Rides really smooth and makes noticeable improvement in car handling.
I had a set of Nokian NRZi tires in my Crown Victoria and put 35 000 miles on them. The owner after me put another 15 000 miles on them. Not bad for a Z rated tire! These tires had grip like no other tire I have ever seen. For example, I was not able to spin the wheels of my Crown Vic on wet pavement when the original Michelin Symmetry tires on the car would spin really easily but still wore out in 30 000 miles.
Since there is no Nokian dealer in the area where I live I could buy the tires direct from their importing warehouse in LaVergne, TN. The NRZi tires cost about $110 per tire. Nokian NRV tires that I purchased for my wife's Grand Am were $108.
My friend purchased Nokian WR tires by my recommendation for his '03 Suburban last winter and he loves them. He lives in Wisconsin so he gets to drive in snow too. They cost $125 a piece.
I purchased Nokian Vatiiva tires for my Tahoe last fall but did not like them as they made a little bit too much noise. These tires were much better for handling than the Bridgestones that the truck came with. The biggest improvement was in stopping distance, which with Bridgestones can be really long.
I will buy a set of WR tires for my Tahoe in a couple of months.
--Arrie--
I talked w/ my local chevy dealer regarding the letter and they said a recall hasn't been issued yet. The letter was merely to inform owners of the fuel pump/wiring problem and the associated symptoms and that a fix is on the way. Once the solution is available, the recall will be issued.
My fuel pump makes a very load whining noise and I plan on replacing it when the recall is issued. From what I understand, the tank will need to be dropped to fix the wiring problem, I'm going to see if the dealer will cut me a break on labor if I have them drop a new pump in.
If anyone has seen this problem before, let me know.. Thanks!
Also, What is the performance difference between a low altitude & high altitude Diesel 6.5 engine, if any?
Having trouble diagnosing this...
Ignition has been inconsistent, clicking, then not turning over - wiat 5 min, then it's fine again until this morning.... starter problem?
Also, Both taillights/brakes are out, but it is the whole piece not the bulbs - Is this possible, or is it some sort of electrical problem, also trouble with pass windows, and wipers - Seems like it's all tied together...Please help.
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I and several other s have the same issue.
Thanks
I can start the thing sometimes, but it floods pretty bad. Sometimes when it won't start, the ignitions fires, but the injectors won't. Then, just to make things confusing, the Injectors fire, but then the ignition won't...... We replaced the computer, the fuel pump, the fuel pressure regulator, and some fuses.... Anyone out there know of any ideas? :confuse:
Thanks guys for the help
No Luck.
Any ideas.
Dealer says maybe ECM or something. $80 to find out.
Any ideas?
Dealer says maybe ECM or something. $80 to find out and then...
Any ideas?
Dealer says maybe ECM or something. $80 to find out and then...
Visually check the battery for cracks near the posts.
Check the cable for "green" corrosion.
Check to see if the battery posts have come loose. If it is a side posts, they are known for this and I have a part to fix it if this is the case ($3 shipped)
Check all the fuses by removing them. Make sure one of them isn't bad.
Go to AutoZone (parts store) and have them test the alternator and battery while they are at it.