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Do you still have the power seat fuse pulled? If not and you pull it and it works for a while, maybe it would be worth putting a kill switch on that fuse and only engaging it when you need to change your seat position. (That is assuming that is the only thing that fuse takes care of.)
My old manual folding mirrors, I just pushed the mirror where I wanted it and then tried the power adjuster until it caught. And as I recall, back on my 93, I could just grab the glass and pull it out. It makes a horrible zipping noise, but then the threaded rod and wobble plate are exposed. Center the glass and push it back onto the mount tight. Sometimes the threaded rod bracket loses its epoxied bond to the glass. You can glue it, or ask an auto glass shop to do it. I think it cost me $2.00 back then the first time. I watched and did it my self the second, third and fourth times.
Then I discovered it was my bug/stone shiled on the hood causing a severe slipstream problem. I took it off and never had another incident.
It unfortunately did not.
97 Burban 87k
**A new noise has emerged - it is almost an electrical buzz that comes from the engine when the gas is applied - harder the gas louder the noise...
No grinidng, just a loud hum/buzz.
**In addition, the Steering wheel, when turned, feels okay, but causes a squeaking sound from the engine as well (clearly not from the tires)..
PLEASE HELP!... Thanks..
Hope this helps! :confuse:
Any ideas
Ray
Took a look at the power steering system - Empty, and found a leak there...
Replacing the pwr steering piece/pump should fix he noise and the problem --
Thanks for your help - Belts are fine. Fuel pump fine.
1 I have a 2002 Suburban 2500 with the 8.1 liter vortec. I use it for daily travel as well since I only work a few miles from home. The ride on the Suburban is excellent when comparing to the Tahoe I traded. The Tahoe may have been a little better, but running the tire pressure closer to 50 psi when not towing heavy or running heavy payloads helps. Remember you move up to 12 ply tires that can take 80 psi with the 2500. If I take it easy in town, I can get about 10 mpg.
2. My research said there is no other SUV that can tow as much as the Suburban 2500. My rated max is 12,000 towing. My brother has an Exursion with the V-10 and his max is 11,000. The Suburban has more payload too. I think much of this is due to the heavy curb wight on the Exursion. It's about 7100 versus 6500 for the Burb. His V-10 does a fine job but it rides like a lumber wagon. The V-10 doesn't quite put out the torque the 8.1 liter does. I think it is around 425 foot pounds and the Suburban is 465. If you're going to tow 10,000 lbs., get the 8.1 liter. I have a family of 4 and they all prefer to take the Suburban on the highway when not towing. Very comfortable. The kids sit in the third row, we fold down the middle row and they watch DVDs on a 17" computer screen. Ages 3 and 8, going on 7 hour trips are a breeze.
3. I quickly ruled out an additional car for mileage because the costs associated with an extra car not related to fuel (insurance, maintenance etc.) brought the savings back to zero. If you have a large commute I'm sure you would have savings with a fuel efficient car. I only drive 15,000 miles per year. If you drive 30,000, add a Honda to the driveway. But as you mentioned you need more room for juggling cars. I don't know about renting a tow vehicle.
Additionally, I tow a camper with a boat behind and they are 11,000 pounds. No problem. I tried it once with my Tahoe and got about 4.5 mpg and ran in 2nd gear often. The 8.1 liter mostly runs in OD. I push the "tow" button and let it pick the gear. Usually get around 7.5 to 8. Without the boat I got 10 once. Yes it is quite long. One foot short of the legal limit 70 feet. No you don't back up, far anyway. When you're not towing, you have a hot rod of an SUV with a alot of comfort. I'll run mine till it drops.
The sound is very annoying and seems to be worse when the engine is cold.
I don't have a CE light and did just recently had the FI system cleaned and plugs replaced. I still get the exhaust rattle and I now just ignore it along with all of the other rattles this vehicle has, typical of GM vehicles.
All these "Gremlins" started popping up at about the same time. The problems started about a month ago, the braking issue started two days ago.
Anyone seen anything like this. I don't want to throw good money after bad on this one. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!
What is making the exhaust shake?
The exhaust piping is connected to the only thing that moves in the car while parked, running and you are under the car - the engine!
What makes the exhaust shake is the engine. It is directly connected to the exhaust manifold on both sides of the engine. Exhaust is flexibly connected to the frame to isolate vibration noise from the car body.
If the shaking is abnormally big it means that your engine is shaking abnormally big.
You say the engine light came on. If you take it to AutoZone or someone else to read codes it most likely says you have a misfire situation and if you use a right kind of a scanner it even says which cylinder it is.
Take your car to read codes. You can take it to your Chevy dealer who will charge you at least $75 just to read codes. You can take it to AutoZone where they read codes for free.
You probably have a bad spark plug, bad spark plug connection, bad spark plug wire, spark plug wire getting shorted to groud or bad coil for that spark plug.
Other than the coil, fix for this issue probably runs less than $75.00, which is the cost of new wire set, unless you take it to the dealer where just diagnosing the issue cost more.
--Arrie--
We have a 2000 K2500 with the 6L engine purchased new in Feb. 2001 that now has 76000 miles on it. This spring the low coolant light came on and I found the coolant was down ~3-4 inches in the overflow so I topped it up with water. This has repeated once more and now the low collant light is on again. I can't find the leak, which must be small anyway. Has anyone else had a similar issue develop?
Another issue is rust (paint bubling) seems to be forming at the bottom inside edges of several of the doors. Does anyone else have rust developing prematurely? We've always lived where they salt the roads (Michigan and Ontario) but the truck is still young to be developing rust.
Any information would be greatly appreciated.
:lemon: What have you done to trouble shoot yours? How often is it before you drain the battery?
http://www.edmunds.com/used/1990/chevrolet/suburban/10614/specs.html?tid=edmunds.u.ratings- _consumer.leftsidenav..6.Chevrolet*
I have a 2003 Suburban z71 and took it in today for a minor fix and had them do the seatbelt fix at the same time that is the recent recall. What they did was take the 2nd row center seatbelt out of it's loop that guided it across the lap and now it is free, but they left the loop hanging out like a skin flap! It serves no purpose and looks tacky and who knows what the kids will say when they have to sit with that thing poking them in the back. I went right back in to the dealer and told them I wasn't satisfied. They agreed that it looked unsightly but that was what they were authorized to do by GM and there was nothing more they could do. So I called GM and they took my comment and told me that was all they were willing to do also. I am not pleased with this. I searched long and hard and spent a significant amount of money to find this car in the exact model with the exact options and I do not think that GM should tell us we have to get something fixed and then leave me with a useless flap sticking out of a seat! Does anyone have any suggestions of who I can reach to get some sort of satisfaction? At this point, I will probably have to take it to an upholstery shop and pay to get it removed properly. I think GM should have done that!
Steve, Host