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Chevy Suburban

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Comments

  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    It seems that slightly bending the transmission oil cooler lines or routing them out of the way would be a much easier and logical solution than replacing the A/C compressor, tensioner pulley, and belt. is the belt tensioned correctly and the tensioner pulley locked in place properly? The tensioner pulley should not move once it is locked in place.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Does the vehicle have a factory installed towing package? If no, you need to install the auto transmission oil cooler. What is the rear end gear ratio? You need at have least 3.73:1 gear ratio to tow that much weight. Do you intend to tow this trailer over a long distance or just locally? On flat or hilly terrain?

    Towing a 7500 lb trailer with a 350 engine is pushing it to the limit. It can be done with proper equipment though. Transmission oil cooler, 4.10:1 gear ratio with locking rear differential(3.73:1 will also do), and preferably a transmission oil temperature gauge, which can be added.
  • Thanks for the reply. I havent picked the Suburban up yet I'll get it on Monday. I am going to put a deeper transmission pan and a temperature gauge. I dont know for sure if it came with the tow package. Just know it has a 2" receiver hitch. If it didnt I'll be putting on a big cooler.
    How do I Identify the transmission Its an overdrive unit. Not sure if its a 4L60 or a 4L80. Can anybody help me here?
  • Thanks for the suggestion. I thought about repositioning the transmission lines but thought it might be important to figure what was causing the issue first. Both tensioners on this truck are spring loaded and normally have a small amount of travel as a normal function of their job. The A/C tensioner has to move about 4 inches (well within it allowed travel of this tensioner) to hit the transmission lines. Something is causing excess tension on the belt and the dealership & I are at a loss.
  • I have a 2004 Suburban. LOVE IT!!!
    I know there are ways to reset stuff, such as hours, oil life, chimes. I can't seem to locate any place that has those codes.
    I have a 2001 Impala and it's in the radio. I can't seem to get the radio to help me here.
    Any thoughts???
  • First 12k miles were great! Loved the SUV for our family of 6, former minivan owners. The last 9 months and 12k have been riddled with an HVAC (driver side)problem that even the "Field Engineer" has been unable to trace the root to. Almost daily now the heat (northeast owner)randomly changes over to cold, cold, cold.(started in the summer with a/c to heat) Numerous repair attempts, actuator doors, modules, burnt wires behind dash have all been addressed, the problem continues. Also, rear audio system has intermittently crashed and there continues to be a rear whistle in the passenger side during the a/c season. Anyone else experience so many problems??? Thanks. :cry:
  • Did you ever get this figured out? I was warned in Nov that my fuel pump was going because someone heard a motorized noise - a "whrrring" - coming from the backend. Fuel pump finally went at the end of Jan. I just had it replaced... the motor noise is still there & now my tank is also off. I topped off the tank thinking it would fix it too - nope.

    Any ideas? also did you still have fuel intake problems after you first replaced? Thanks
  • Just had my fuel pump replaced. Not happy with the way it's running yet. I was going to try to change the fuel filter myself. Can someone tell me where to locate it?

    Also my fuel gauge is now off - anyway to fix it? I think I paid for my mechanics vacation that he's on right now!
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,914
    A reporter is looking to learn about the vehicles of choice for people with large families. If you have 6 or more in the house and often travel as a group, what is your preferred mode of transportation? Please respond to jfallon@edmunds.com before Wednesday, February 22, 2006 with your daytime contact info and a few words about this topic.

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  • You need an EVO sensor, fits on steering shaft under dash, very simple to replace
  • You need an ignition switch. This was a common problem addressed in a TSB
  • Does anyone know where I can get a body for a 1983 2500 diesel GMC Suburban. I also need a new interior. Does anyone know what size speakers it has. Could I put a ladderback pick up body on it? Any info would be welcomed. This is my first car so I realy need some info. THANK YOU
  • rb94burbrb94burb Posts: 4
    Hello all, When towing a 5400# loaded weight horse trailer with my 94 3/4 ton Suburban with the 454 occasionally when coming to a stop the brake pedal goes to the floor and the power steering loses all power assist. Then everything returns to normal once the truck is moving again. I've replaced the power steering belt and made sure the tension was correct. What should I look at next?

    Thanks, Ron
  • 03 burb running great. yesterday after hour of driving, felt like loss of fuel with hesitation, no power, and vibration under hood. pulled over and rev'd and it stalled. engine light came on. waited 5 and it restarted. mechanic said computer reading norm. put in fuel cleaner for badfuel/water. ran fine light stayed off. then....did the same today only the engine light stayed on after restart, computer said misfire on cylinders?. mechanic wants $600 + for new fuel pump. is that the prob? help. afraid this is not the problem and $ wasted.
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    If it is a fuel pump problem you should be able to see low fuel pressure at fuel rack. Get fuel pressure checked. This is not always easy as the pump could be going bad and give intermittent problem.

    Another possible problem is the crank shaft position sensor, which is mounted in a very hot place in the side of oil pan. These sensors sometimes fail due to hot environment and can cause misfire problem that you explained. Sensor costs something less than $100 but takes a little bit work to change as it is mounted in the side of the oil pan behind starter motor.

    Another ignition timing sensor is the cam shaft position sensor. This one is a bit more work to change as at least in my '04 Tahoe it is mounted behind intake air manifold, which might need to come out for access.

    Would be best if you could somehow repeat the stalling problem and monitor fuel pressure at the same time. If pressure drops off first and causes engine to stall it probably is the fuel pump problem. It could also be a bad fuel pressure regulator.

    Have you asked your mechanic why he thinks it is the fuel pump problem?

    Ask him about the other possible reasons, like the sensors I mention above.

    Arrie
  • arkitectarkitect Posts: 75
    #570 of 573 restoring my car by arkitect Feb 26, 2006 (5:29 pm)
    Bookmark | Reply | E-mail Msg
    Does anyone know where I can get a body for a 1983 2500 diesel GMC Suburban. I also need a new interior. Does anyone know what size speakers it has. Could I put a ladderback pick up body on it? Any info would be welcomed. This is my first car so I realy need some info. THANK YOU
  • Abs light stays on and can here the the motor running under the hud. I remover the fuse abs. Is the emc the problem under the hud.
  • Okay... I don't know if I'm supposed to post my problem in more than one place but this seems closest so far to matching the one i have so tell me if i'm doing this wrong please...
    I have a 1990 chevy blazer that is having (has been having...) some really bizarre electrical problems. It started with what i thought was a bad install of an aftermarket alarm system that was making the radio be on constant scan in FM mode and the cigarette lighter was making the dome lite go on... I disconnected the box to the alarm, rewired the stereo and those went away.
    Then, I noticed the oil pressure guage was bouncing up and down as if it had a loose wire... i found none. The interesting part was that when it was showing good pressure, the truck ran fine. When the guage dropped to almost zero, the truck started to run horribly. I knew that the oil pressure itself was not really low because of the way the guage bounced back and forth like it wasn't connected well... but why would the truck think it was supposed to run bad just cuz the guage said so? Even more bizarre... if the gas tank is running close to empty, and the oil pressure guage drops low again, the truck will start to stall at idle and the "check guages" light will come on. Anyone know what might cause this?

    There are greater problems than this, unfortunately, because now the truck just won't even turn over. I've replaced a bad starter and it worked for a few days but started giving me trouble by not even clicking when i turn the key sometimes... wait... try again a few times... and then turns over as if i just connected the battery again! The last time it happened... it never started again. That was a week ago.

    I wonder if the wires in the steering column could be related to both problems. The reason is because I also have this problem with the turn signal switch... sometimes the windshield wipers will go one for one pass when I use the turn signal... and lately I noticed a really strange "winding down" noice coming from the turn relay that seems to correspond with the timing of the pressure guage dropping and the check guages light coming on.

    I'm so frustrated i don't know what to do first. HELP? I hope someone can make sense of this!
  • catamcatam Posts: 331
    I assume from your description that you have "Hydroboost" for your power brake system, instead of a vacuum powered unit. Hydroboost uses the power stering pump to create hydraulic pressure for power assist on the brakes.
    I would do 2 things, first check the entire power steering system/power brake booster for hydraulic fluid leaks. Replace any leaking part. Also, make sure you fluid reservoir is filled to the appropriate level. (Do not overfill, that will likely cause a part of the system to start leaking.
  • catamcatam Posts: 331
    I just bought an 03 K1500 LT with 71000 mi.
    I bought it during the day, and didn't notice till last night that the overhead interior lights do not work. This applies to the 3 sets that are over each seeting row and also the lights on the inside panels of both rear doors.
    I pushed the dome overide switch several times, and no change. I also tried manually turning lights on with dimmer dial by turning full up.
    I also noticed the underhood light, does not come on, and the reverse lights are not working.
    I checked the underhood fuse labeled INTPARK and appears fine, (I will double check with an Ohm meter)
    Is there a relay or another fuse that might be the culprit. Perhaps one related to the Retained Accessory Power circuit. I know it is involved with all but the reverse lights.
    Just FYI, the front row map reading lights do work, as well as glovebox light, and front door panel lights.
    Any one with similar issues or a fix would be greatly appreciated.
  • edwin10edwin10 Posts: 32
    We have an 97 Sub with 22k, use it very little, and had
    the same problem. I pulled the bat cable and put an
    amp meter on. Watched the current draw, and found
    the interior light circuit pulling too much. Pulled
    the fuse for the interior lights and problem went away.

    Since we use it so little, I have not fixed it, but
    problem is the delay module for the interior lights.
  • rb94burbrb94burb Posts: 4
    Thanks catam. Yes, it is the hydroboost system. There is no large vacuum boost unit behind the master cylinder. Just a manifold type unit with lines to the power steering pump. There are no leaks in the entire system and the fluid level is correct. So is it possible the unit behind the master cylinder is bad? Or is it the power steering pump itself?
  • toddr1toddr1 Posts: 1
    My rear brake pads are wearing out after 5K miles. I still have the original front brake pads on the Suburban. The car has 116K on it. It appears as if uneven brake pressure is occuring. Has anyone experienced this or do you have any ideas on why the rear brakes would be wearing out so quickly?
  • catamcatam Posts: 331
    It sounds to me, that for some reason you PS pump is not generating adequate hydraulic pressure at low engine speeds. (Engine speed drops to near idle while braking). It is certainly possible that your pump is failing, I am not real familiar with the internals on a PS pump, but it seems reasonsable that some internal seals may be leaking. Personally I would likely just replace the PS pump, its relatively easy and cheap. In the interim, when braking with your trailer, you could shift the tranny to neutral, left foot brake, and rev the engine to 2000 or so RPM. This also may be a method of telling you if its just a matter of low hydraulic PS pressure, (which to me sounds very likely.)
  • catamcatam Posts: 331
    I believe there was some discussion about problems with excessive wear on rear disc brakes in the Silverado discussion. You may want to repost your question there, I don't remember any fixes.
  • walshdbwalshdb Posts: 2
    2003 Suburban - All of my 12 volt accessory plugs (including the lighter) no longer work. I figure it's a fuse, but with 3 fuse blocks, I can find nothing that calls out what fuse it actually is in the owners manual. It lists fuses for everything except what used to be "accessories." Can any one help? Thanks.
  • My Suburban is beginning to hesitate when I put it in reverse. Slowly it is not wanting to back up at all. Is this common? What is the likely problem and will this cost me my next 2 months paychecks to repair? :sick:
  • beach15beach15 Posts: 1,305
    Do you have the steering wheel audio controls? On these trucks, the computer with all that "stuff" is built into the instrument (gauge) cluster, right below the odometer, but in order to work it, you have to have the steering wheel buttons. If you do, just look in your owner's manual about how to use the system.

    Part of the reason why, when we were looking for an '04, it had to have the controls. Even the dealer said it was dumb that so many other dealers ordered the trucks without them back then, because you loose all that programming functionality.

    They then became standard in '05+ models.
  • tobjotobjo Posts: 1
    Are Suburbans built for sale in California any different from those built for sale elsewhere. I'm looking at one (1999) originally built for California. Good or Bad?
    Thank you,
  • rb94burbrb94burb Posts: 4
    Horse show season is starting soon so I'll have to try your suggestion. But either way, I think I'll replace the PS pump and if that doesn't correct the problem, then the mater cylinder and the Hydro boost unit. Surely, that ought to correct the problem! Thanks for the input! I appreciate it!
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