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Comments
Thanks,
Chintan Talati
Corporate Communications
Edmunds.com
I have exact the same problem with my O4 Suburban: vibrates at idle (stop signs, lights etc). Also there is noise when under load at about 1.8 RPM. It looks like exactly what you are talking about. Any info on the bulletin about the "flex joint"?
Thanks
From what I understand this problem is O4 Suburban/Tahoe/etc specific. I had an 03 Suburban with no problems like that. It looks like the only confirmed solution is "exauhst dampener". Any info on that would be greatly appreciated. Part#, TSB# etc ....
Also .. all of you 04 owners. I do not like sound from right hand side engine compartment at acceleration (or undr load) at around 1.8K RPM. Any similar problems?
I know to hold the compass button down until i have to pick a zone, but I have no clue as to the zone i am in while in miami, FL. then I have to complete 3 circles/// I believe,
Anybody know or have a map ofthe different zones in the US?
thanks
"I had the same vibration, and went through the same issues with the dealership trying a bunch of different solutions. None of them (including the PCM reprogram) worked, until I had the exhaust dampener installed. It's a TSB for the full-size vans, but it works. Looks like a five pound hockey puck, hanging off my exhaust pipe, right behind the rear wheel. Not incredibly aesthetically pleasing, but it lessened the vibration considerably. Before, you could actually see the exhaust pipe shaking violently as the engine idled or you held your foot on the brake. I've heard of another TSB out there that suggests installing a flex pipe in the exhaust, but I'm not sure how willing a dealer will be to do that, especially out of warranty. Try the dampener - it might help, and it's probably a lot cheaper"
Thanks for the post.
Chevy used to give a 100,000 mile engine warranty if you complained enough. For what it's worth, your engine will likely never fail as a result of piston slap. I know it probably drives you nuts because I have the same engine with the same problem. I would be surprised if the class action thing got very far, but keep us posted.
It is a low pitch hum that sounds like road noise but my tires seem fine and you hear it on any road surface.
Tony
2007 Chevrolet Suburban (Karl on Cars)
Steve, Host
I was also wondering if it could be an ECM. It used to be that I could wiggle/replace the ECM1 fuse under the hood and the problem would correct. Lately that hasn't fixed the problem.
I have a 92 GMC suburban. that's driving me bonkers.
It seems I keep blowing the 20A Fuse for the intstrument cluster. 1st it started out weird. then it increased. now everytime I put a fuse in soon as I turn the car to start it blows the fuse. I also noticed that when I put the driving lights on. the chiming sound plays and doesn't stop (until I turn the driving lights off) (the chiming sound you get as if you left your lights on after turning off the car)
any thoughts?
help!
Rudy B
My High Beams are on all the time, and I cannot cancel them.
I replaced the dimmer switch on the Steering column, above the pedals, but that did not solve the problem. Pulling the column stalk backwards does not result in a click, and I noticed that neither the new or old dimmer switch posses a detent in it’s movement.
I therefore have 2 questions:
1) Is there a component connected to the stalk responsible for the click that I must replace?
2) I tested continuity of both the new and old dimmer switch, and they behaved the same. Curiously, throwing the switch trigger did not change the continuity. No matter what position the switch was in, there was always continuity between the bottom single connector, and the top right. The top left connector never has continuity with either of the others. Is this correct?
Thank you for taking my question.
In Dec my spark plugs went bad. So I had them replaced, plugs and wires. Ran great after that, until Feb/March. One of the cylinders had spark plugs that went bad. Misfire on #4 and #5. Well, guess what? It just happened again. I just had to have them replaced again. The mechanics are scratching their heads. Not sure what to do. I took it to the dealer and they don't know what's wrong with it either. I have had the o2 sensor replaced because it went bad shortly before the spark plugs went bad this last time. I have replaced the fuel filter and the intermediate(something) was lubed a few days ago. Still no answer to my spark plug problems though. If someone could point me in the right direction I would appreciate it.
Thanks
Shannon
--Arrie--
Shannon
The spark plug boots have an aluminum heat shields installed around them. Some of the spark leaks through the rubber boot to the heat shield and from that to engine ground thru a grounding spring mounted in the end of the heat shield.
When spark plugs are replaced the boots naturally must first be removed to gain access to the plugs. When boots are removed it easily happens that the spark plug wire connector inside the boot slides out some before it comes loose from the plug. When the wires are then installed back on the new spark plugs the plugs do not go as deep in the boots as they were if the wire connector had moved. THIS HAPPENS VERY EASILY AND GREAT CARE MUST BE TAKEN WHEN RE-INSTALLING BOOTS ON PLUGS TO MAKE SURE THEY GO ON DEEP ENOUGH.
If boots don't go on the plugs deep enough you will get excessive spark leak which will set the code and if severe enough it will result in rough running engine too.
I have written about this a lot in this forum when I had to fix my new '04 Tahoe under warranty myself as the dealer would not. I learned alot and this was one of the details.
I fixed my problem first by removing those heat shields to verify that the problem goes away without them and when this really fixed the problem I went and purchased a good set of racing spark plug wires that do not need the heat shields. I have not had any problems with this since I did this over a year ago.
Before doing the racing wires I tried 2 sets of dealer GM wires and two sets of third party wires that all require using the heat shields. I did run without heat shields with all of them for some time and they all performed better without heat shields. As they are meant to be used with shields I then went to get wires that do not require use of them.
--Arrie--
Crankshaft position sensor is mounted behind starter motor at least in my '04 Tahoe where I would look for it in your Sub too if you were to change it by yourself. The starter must be removed first to get access to it.
This sensor does not necessarily give a DTC when it starts reading wrong trigger point. It gives one when it fails all together.
Just a thought.
--Arrie--
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If I were you I would get a second opinion from another repair shop. I can't think of anything that would cause all that damage based on what you said happened.