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Chevy Suburban

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Comments

  • rspencerrspencer Member Posts: 63
    Hey redmaxx - What kinda' gas mileage did u get on that Suburban LT?
  • middleseatmiddleseat Member Posts: 4
    My 2001 Suburban (5.3L 4x4 LT) pings like crazy when the ambient temperatures reach about 95 - 100 degrees F and the truck is under mild to moderate acceleration (read "not floored"). I've taken it to the dealer and a private shop, neither of which could reproduce the problem (even when I took the technicians for a 20 minute ride). Simple enough reason why - on the dates that I took it in for diagnosis, the ambient temperature was only in the 70's. I live in the San Francisco Bay Area where the temps rarely get into the 90's.

    At the private shop, the technician hooked up a SnapOn computer to watch while we drove around. He saw a maximum of 56 degreses of advance (that sounds like A LOT to me) but it never pinged at all during the test drive. He also saw the computer dial in some retard based on the knock sensors hearing predetonation. So that sounds to me like the knock sensors do work and the computer *is* responding.

    So - I searched the forum expecting to find a lot of stories about ping but found little related to my situation. Has anyone else had this problem, and has anyone else had the problem *fixed*? It sort of sounds to me like a situation in which the computer is getting conflicting sensor readings - it *has* to be able to hear the pinging - *anyone* could hear it (I am not talking about subtle in any way) - so I wonder what else would be calling for too much advance and why the computer would choose to ignore the knock sensor inputs. I'm speculating here and may be completely wrong but want to try to spark some conversation. If there are any experts out there on the Suburban engine control computer, please I beg you, offer some advice :-)

    A couple of things *seem* to alleviate the problem - one is to put super in the tank (I run Shell or 76 regular in CA which means 87 octane). But the dealer has flat out told me that I should *NOT* have to put super in the tank. The other thing that *seemed* to fix the problem for awhile was to buy a bottle of Techroline (spelling?) but the fact is that it may well have been cooler out after I put in the cleaner so the cleaner may really have had no effect at all.

    Thanks in advance for any possible help,
    Jeff
  • bandemommybandemommy Member Posts: 20
    Which rental agency did you use? I really would like to drive one extensively before I decide on a purchase.
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    Check your MAF. If it reads too low air flow you get higher compression pressure in the engine than what the computer calculates, which could lead to knocking.

    MAF measuring sensor wires can get dirty and lead to wrong readings. These small wires can be cleaned but I can't tell you what solvent to use. Rubbing alcohol perhaps?

    MAF probably also has intake temperature sensor built-in to it like my '04 Tahoe has. Too high temperature reading would also lead to higher compression pressure than what computer calculates and cause the problem. Perhaps your problem is with the temp sensor as you say it seems to be temperature related.

    A simple reason for trouble could also bee bad connection in the MAF wire harness.

    --Arrie--
  • middleseatmiddleseat Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the suggestion Arrie. The private shop said they checked the MAF (and many years earlier, this same shop fixed a detonation problem in a different vehicle and the problem *was* directly related to the MAF). So I *think* this is not the issue - however, I will ask them when I next visit their shop. I don't know if the temperature reading is something that would be part of a data dump (after connecting this snap-on computer) but I know the techician spent a good hour reviewing a batch of data looking for glitches like this (i.e., a reading that is obviously out of wack).

    Anyway, I like your idea and it makes sense so I'll follow up with the shop.

    Anyone else have any other ideas? Has anyone had this problem and had the dealer solve the problem? If so, what did they do?

    Thanks,
    Jeff
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    Intake air temperature is one of the data points that can be read thru the data port where the scanner connects. With your problem you should have this reading checked when you have the problem during hot days.

    You can do this yourself too if you want to invest a $110 or so. You can purchase a CarChip data logger. It is a small data logger that connects to the diagnostic port in your car and you can select from about 10 parameters to monitor while you drive. To look at the data you need a computer.

    I bought my CarChip from AutoZone.

    --Arrie--
  • fch3fch3 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 Sub LT and it has recently been squeeking near the rear when I hit a bump. I thought maybe the shocks, any suggestions on what it might be and how much it would cost to get fixed? I'd like to go into the mechanic having an idea of what it is and how much it will cost. Thanks!
  • ahightowerahightower Member Posts: 539
    I'm no expert, but it's a big vehicle and the description you gave could be just about anything. Are you sure it's coming from the outside rather than the inside? Underneath? Have you ridden in the back with someone else driving and tried to get a general idea where it's coming from?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Hi, everyone. As you've probably noticed, we have been trying to refine the discussions into more narrowly focussed topics. Our objective is twofold. We want to make it easier for people seeking specific information about their vehicles to find it easily and without having to wade through hundreds or thousands of postings.

    To those ends, we will be shutting down the general make/model discussions and work exclusively with specific issues. This requires us to populate the make/model subsections with relevant, interesting and timely topics. Rather than having the hosts simply create boilerplate topics for each make/model, we feel that you, the owner, the make/model enthusiast and the prospective buyer can best judge what those topics should be.

    You can help by adding a discussion (it's easy!) or suggesting one here.

    To add a discussion, click on the last link in the "You are here" line at the top of this page. That will take you to the topic page for this make/model. Review the list of topics and click on the "Add discussion" link when you've decided what topic you'd like to add. Follow the directions and you're done! Feel free to add more than one. Just avoid duplicating existing topics and try not to make it TOO specific!

    Your help and continued participation in the Forums is greatly appreciated! Thanks.
  • redsuburbanredsuburban Member Posts: 4
    I have a 90 Suburban. Only 100,000 miles. Running perfectly. Had the fuel pump changed b/c we were in the gas tank for another reason. One week later stepped on the gas and a huge loss of power. Would only go about 15 to 20 miles per hour. When you would step on the gas it would rev up normally about 1/2 way to the floor then it "cuts out" and losses power. Check engine light comes on. It doesn't idle rough or run rough, just no power. This is very intermittent. It will work bad then run fine for a few miles, then bad, then fine for days then stalls completely & won't restart. We have had it in the shop numerous times. Changed fuel pump. Cat. Conv. test fine. He has changed the fuel filter, ignition module, ignition coil. Now he wants to change the EGR valve. I think he is just guessing. The check engine light is never on by the time we get it back to the shop so it is tricky to figure out. Any suggestions?Thank you.
  • v8fun4uv8fun4u Member Posts: 3
    I had almost the same problems with my 97. LOSS OF POWER. This happened about two weeks after it was towed for a new fuel pump. I bought new cam sensors, EGR, wires plugs, you name it. Turned out to be a bad new fuel pump. This time I made sure we used a DELCO FUEL PUMP.
  • redsuburbanredsuburban Member Posts: 4
    Everyone has told me that a bad fuel pump would not be intermittent, it would just go out. It is a pump from Napa. I'm not sure what kind they put in. Did you have major loss of power? My mechanic says, no, it's not the fuel pump. GRRRRR. Thanks.
  • doceddiedoceddie Member Posts: 3
    I just bought a 1998 GMC Sub 1500 4x4 w/ auto 4x4. The lights don't come on the 2hi/auto4x4 or the 4hi/4low switch. I can here it switch into 4low in neutral and seems to go ok. But I can't tell when I'm in 2hi or auto4x4.

    It has 146,000 miles and it was "Serviced" at a vo-tech place w/ no records. What work/ service would you do on it now?

    Paid $5000.00

    Thanks...ed
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    The Edmunds Maintenance Guide will give you an idea of what the manufacturer recommends at various intervals (you may have to drop the "100,000" and start over with 50,000 miles).
  • bobwileybobwiley Member Posts: 241
    Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this problem. 2004 4WD 1500 Suburban with 36K miles and you could hear "clicking" noise--similar to the days when rocks used to get into wheel covers. First noticed noise about 2 weeks ago. Took vehicle to the dealer and was told the "inspection" plug, not the drain or fill plug was missing and all the fluid had been ejected. Local Chevy Service Manager said it would take about "2-3 weeks" for the transfer case fluid to be ejected. Last time the oil was changed and vehicle inspected, not by Chevy, but by our mechanic was 8 August 06. SUV was driven 3K miles since then and since we change oil every 3K miles, it was going in for the service until we had this problem. We have an Extended Warranty, however; the local dealer said that since the plug was missing, it wouldn't be covered. Cost will be around $2K. My problem is it has taken over 60 days since last maintenance (8 Aug) for this issue to arise. Adding to our dilemma is the Service Manager's statement that in 2-3 weeks w/o the plug the fluid would be gone. We had NO fluid leaks on the garage floor. Something doesn't add up? Just wondering if anyone else experienced this issue? Thanks in Advance

    Norm
  • thandleythandley Member Posts: 4
    When it rains, car wash, or now that it's cold I am having lock issues. I had it into the dealer for 2 days and they were able to duplicate the problem but could not fix it.

    When the car is placed in Park, all of my locks are supposed to open. However, the only one that opens is the driver’s side door. I have to manually open the front and rear passenger doors. My rear hatch does not have a manual opening from the inside and no key hole to open it from the outside. The only way the rear hatch can be opened is electronically, which is not working.

    Do you think that there is a short after the drivers lock and before the next lock?
  • ahightowerahightower Member Posts: 539
    Dumb question, but do they all work if you hit the unlock button inside the car, or on your key fob?

    Also, you can set up through the DIC whether you want one, all, or none of the doors to unlock when put into park. Are you sure the setting hasn't been changed?
  • fch3fch3 Member Posts: 2
    If you have an LT then you need to set the option for all doors to unlock. The driver's side only is a safety feature if you have children. I forget which button it is on the steering wheel, but scroll them all and it will give you the option of either.
  • burbburb Member Posts: 1
    Catam-
    Did you ever find out what the problem was? I just bought a 2003 LT and could have typed that exact message. Thanks in advance for your help.
  • thandleythandley Member Posts: 4
    the dealer this time says that the problem was with the door panel lock mechanism. They ordered the part and should have it in next week. Let's see if that works. I will keep everyone posted. 150 for part 130 to install.
  • oviedolaxoviedolax Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Suburban with some kind of electrical issue. I believe that it started happening after I had it in to the dealership for service on the window or for the intermediate staft replacement, but did not realize it at the time. Every time I use something electrical in the car (lock button, seat adjustment, window button, etc.) the lights on the dash dim for a second and the voltage meter twitches to the left. While driving home from North Carolina at night on the freeway, the headlights constantly flickered and the voltage gauge did the same thing while driving and not touching any electrical switches. It did that for a while and then stopped. It seems to happen intermittently.

    Any ideas on where to start to look for a problem?
  • thandleythandley Member Posts: 4
    I have no idea. Not car handy. I am trusting the dealership on this one. Hopefully they will get it right when they replace the window/door lock mechanism.
  • kossack1962kossack1962 Member Posts: 1
    Took our 1999 GMC Suburban hunting today down a very muddy dirt road w/lots of ruts and deep puddles in it, slid off the road, and got stuck in 4 Wheel Hi, Switched to 4 Wheel Lo, still couldn't get out, backed up to try again, vehicle stalled, and now won't start. New battery, and starter turns, but acts like not getting any fuel. We are away from home by 3 hours, so any suggestions would really be appreciated! :cry:
  • samora1958samora1958 Member Posts: 1
    i have replaced the circuit board checked the fues replaced the bulbs and brake switch what next
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    A national news magazine is looking to interview consumers who have recently (within the past three months) purchased a large SUV and would like to talk about your decision to purchase that car. Please send an e-mail to ctalati@edmunds.com no later than Wednesday, November 8, 2006 by 2:00 PM PST/5:00 EST containing your daytime contact information.
  • junglegeorgejunglegeorge Member Posts: 129
    Just curious why you would post this here, and not in any of the categories dedicated to the 2007 model? For instance the “Chevy Tahoe 2007: News and Views
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    The press requests get scattered about; I'll link it over there though since that's a good idea. Hurry if you want to see your name in print!
  • powder73powder73 Member Posts: 15
    wouldn't it be nice to have a forum about the new 07 model??? pretty please!!!!! :P
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Take your pick. :shades:

    2007 Chevrolet Suburban/GMC Yukon XL/Cadillac Escalade ESV
    07 Suburban Vibration Problems
    07 suburban.tv mod?can i play movie while driving?

    I think there's another 07 specific Suburban discussion or two in the list (see them all by clicking on "Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe" in the You Are Here list at the top.

    And if that doesn't work for you, sure, we can start one that only says "2007 Suburban." ;)
  • catamcatam Member Posts: 331
    Burb,
    Well I have fixed most of the problem, with my interior lights.
    There is a fuse (actually 2 or 3) in the interior fuse box on the side of the dash on drivers side, labed TBC.
    TBC stands for truck body controls, and could mean a great number of things. At any rate once I learned of it I pulled the relevent fuses and sure enough I had one out.
    This fixed 85% of the problem. The main dome light between the first and 2nd rows still does not work, (I plan to check to connections, but haven't had a chance.) I honestly forgot to even check about the underhood light. I hope this helps, and sorry I took so long to get back to ya. CATAM.
  • wmbigswmbigs Member Posts: 2
    I have a weird problem. The heat blows out the heater ducts and a little out of the vent. The defrost doesn't work at all. It doesn't matter what outlet I select. If I downshift to drive, then everthing works fine until the rpm/speed come down a bit. In town it never works.
    Any ideas or things to check?
    Thanks, MikeB
  • catamcatam Member Posts: 331
    Check your intake manifold for a vacuum leak. Many older GMs used a vacuum actuator to control duct venting.
    Also check the vacuum actuator, I'd bet you have a leak somewhere, just find it, and fix or replace the leaking part.
  • hegner4hegner4 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 1998 Suburban yesterday. Very nice ride loaded 174,000 miles. I noticed one problem last night. When I open the doors I have no dome lights on the headliner but the lights on the doors all work except one. (Burned out I think haven't figured out how to change it yet.) Anyway I have tried pushing the dome light over ride button it does turn off the door lights but that is it. I took the cover off of the lights on the headliner bulbs are good tested the contacts with a multimeter. No power to the contacts. Not sure where to check next although all the fuses are good. Any ideas????
  • catamcatam Member Posts: 331
    Had a similar prob on my 03 Burb. It ended up being a blown fuse. In you interior fuse box, (the one on the drivers end of the dash) there are several fuses labelled TBC which stads for truck body controls. Pull them and replace the one thats blown. Good luck and hope this helps.
  • ozarksuburbanozarksuburban Member Posts: 1
    I am not sure how to post this on the GMC Suburban forum, so here goes, and yell away if need be :)

    I have recently acquired an '88 GMC Suburban, who runs wonderfully, but be it 50 feet or 50 miles it eventually gets very weak, engine light pops on and bam she dies. I've changed plug wires, inline fuel filter, and am getting ready to change the distributor cap, but any suggestions as to what is causing this would be much appreciated as I'm beyond baffled at this point and ready to sell the thing for scrap!
  • raetaterraetater Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 GMC suburban. When I set at a light or behind a school bus my engine light comes on. I have been told that it is the idle is too high at the times. I have even kicked the engine down when stopped and it still happens. Could this be a short somewhere or is this just the start of a big problem to come? :confuse:
  • jfitz76jfitz76 Member Posts: 1
    Well that didn't take long...I came to this forum to see if I was the only one who's speedometer appears to be 120mph but really I'm only driving 35mph....Right when I start my suburban it reads 30mph?? Are you still having a problem? Our Burb is an 04 with 36,000 miles~ Would love to hear if anyone else is having this problem.
  • catamcatam Member Posts: 331
    Read through older posts, this issue has been discussed, I believe IIRC, that the fix is a new instrument cluster. Good luck.
  • michml320michml320 Member Posts: 42
    This just happened on my 04 Tahoe. I believe it is an instrument cluster problem and an easy fix. Should be covered under warranty if yours still applies.
  • redsoxvaredsoxva Member Posts: 3
    I have a 03 Surburban. When I press the 4WD button it blinks a few times and then goes off, same with the Auto and 4WD lo button. Any ideas? Thanks!
  • catamcatam Member Posts: 331
    I have had a similar prob with my 03 Burb, at times, 4wd lights will blink, then I get a SERVICE 4WD message on the DIC. This message usually clears with an on/off cycle, then 4wd will work fine. If you find out your problem, let me know, I know mine will eventually get worse.
  • luvmysuburbanluvmysuburban Member Posts: 24
    For those of us that have Vehicles that are 2003 or earlier, On Star service is not available after the end of the year. Depending on your vehicle 2004-2005, you may be able to get the service and 2007 are OK. This has to do with the FCC's stipulation about wireless companies being compliant from analog to digital by 2008. Unfortunately, On Star didn't take them seriously to spend the $$ to implement these changes in our vehicles until 2006, even though the consumers were footing the bill for the equipment. On the website (ONSTAR.com), there is more information about this. I just got my letter in the mail.... Just thought I'd share the wealth and a tip to the savvy investor, do you have any idea what this is going to do to there bottom line losing subscribers of all vehicles prior to 2003 and sporadic coverage for those owners of 2004/2005. I've thought about buying a module from a totaled 2006 Suburban and seeing if I could convert it work with my 2000 burb.
  • redsoxvaredsoxva Member Posts: 3
    I brought it to the dealer and they said that my switch was broken
  • jerrywimerjerrywimer Member Posts: 588
    I wouldn't say that OnStar didn't take them seriously. The more likely reason for the carryover (and soon incompatible) systems in some vehicles is that they had already ordered and *paid for* XX of the modules in quesion, and had them in stock. It's nearly always more cost effective for the vehicle manufacturer to exhaust the existing supply of parts before putting in the latest design when both will fit the vehicle in question. A good example of this is that my 2007 Avalanche (early order / production) has the same tiedowns in the bed as the pre-2007 models (flip up/down, fold flat against the bedside when not in use). Models made later now have a completely different tiedown part (looks cheaper to make, and lacks the flip up/down / fold flat against bedside thing, if not necessarily weaker).

    Getting that out of the way, it still hurts the consumer. In many cases 2003+ models have an available upgrade through OnStar now (installed by dealerships) to fix the OnStar problem. But it also requires some sort of commitment to OnStar for at least a year (not up to date on the exact plan there). In other words, if you're willing to pay for a year or more in advance (even getting whatever special rate is in effect- so it's not costing any extra, just costing up front), you may be able to get your system upgraded at your dealership.

    And for those thinking of trying to swap out their own system for one from a junked vehicle, it is likely possible. I've read of other people successfully doing just this with their own vehicles.

    Good luck!
  • catamcatam Member Posts: 331
    How much did they want for a new switch???
    Also, do you mean the actual in dash buttons/switch, or the actual actuator on the transfer case?
    thanks again for the info.
  • espo610espo610 Member Posts: 3
    I have a '96 K1500. It has no lift, very standard. The tires on it are sized P245/75/16. I need new tires and am looking to put the biggest ones possible without making ANY modifications. A friend told me that I could put P265/70/16 on there and they would fit fine.

    Can anyone verify this?

    Thanks!

    Randy
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I have a 97-K1500, and the original sales brochures. All of the tire options are LT245/75R-16'x', even for the K2500's. There are tire calculators on a number of the tire websites, which will give you the dimensions of the different tire sizes. You can see how much bigger it would be.
  • redsoxvaredsoxva Member Posts: 3
    Sorry I don't know for sure but I think it was the actual in dash switch. Through the dealer I paid about $350 total (parts/labor)
  • f1102f1102 Member Posts: 1
    i have a brake problem. i replaced rotors,drums,pads,shoes,calipers and the right front still grabs causing a pull to the right. when i use the parking brake to stop there is no pulling.what else could cause this.
  • joebasjoebas Member Posts: 20
    Folks, I'm about to trade in, anyone out there with 2007 LTZ? How do you like it??
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