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Cold Weather Problems

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  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Member Posts: 160
    It didn't fix it unfortunately, seemed to improve it but the symptoms came back on a really cold morning. Mine is a 2000 model and so 1996 should be different but basically, look for the main hose coming out of your radiator and as it enters a pipe, the sensor should be right on that pipe because it's inner part needs to be dipped into your antifreeze. There is a harness connected to the outside of the sensor. I needed to remove part of the air duct to get to it and a 3/4 wrench is required.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    The best thing to do would be to swap your IACV with a known good one. In any event, it can't hurt to look the thing over.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Member Posts: 160
    just disassembled the air duct today and got a good look at IACV - it's brand new, the whole part. The dealer didn't lie to me, they did replace it just a month ago. So, I am lost here again. What the... Logic doesn't work any more :) Hey, just a thought, can this be in any way related to oil? Suppose I have an oil leak and a gasket or seals are leaking or even worse - oil is leaking inside one of the cylinders, would that cause such symptoms on cold starts and go away as the car warms up? If not oil leak then let's say low oil pressure? Would that cause such symptoms? I am kind of dismissing this because I would have symptoms with warm engine as well but hey I am not the mechanic. Please let me knwo. Appreciate your help. Thanks
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    If anything I'd think that it's a vacumn leak somewhere downstream from the HFM.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Member Posts: 160
    div2, vacuum leaks is something I heard about a lot and it definitely may be the cause. Can you explain what is a vacume leak and where do I look for it and how do I fix it? Is it like a cracked air hose or loose clamp? Oh ye, what's an HFM?
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    HFM=Hot Film Mass Sensor=Air Flow Meter
    Check every hose connection between the HFM and the cylinder head. The ECU bases its computations on the air flow as measured by the HFM. Any unmetered air downstream from the HFM throws off the computations.
  • monkey7312monkey7312 Member Posts: 26
    My '99 neon has an engine knock (fairly loud) when I start it up when it's cold. Sometimes it does it when it's been sitting over night and isn't very cold. It has 110,000 miles on it and I'm wondering if this means that it's about to die or if it's something I shouldn't really worry about. Otherwise the car seems fine for it's age...
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If it's a real "knock", that's a pretty "heavy" sound---not a tick, tick.

    But if it is actually knocking, then the end is near, yes, unless you are just talking about a faint "piston slap" which could linger on for a while longer. Also wrist pin noises sound worse than they might be....but really, any knocking sound is not a good sign for the future----so plan for the worst.
  • monkey7312monkey7312 Member Posts: 26
    Thanks for the response and being honest even though it's not what I'd like to hear.
    I'm not really sure how to describe the sound, but it is pretty loud. From what I hear about first generation neons I don't really think it's a minor problem. I also don't expect much from a car with so many miles on it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If the rest of the car is nice you could always consider a good low miles used engine.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Member Posts: 160
    thanks div2. No, I do not see any air leaks in the hoses. I went to a knowledgeable mechanic. He noticed that when the car is warming up, the voltage being sent from throttle position sensor to the computer keeps changing, it starts at 0.60 and then drops to 0.46 by itself. He suggested that the computer needs to be reprogrammed. He says that when they put in a new computer they never reprogrammed it and therefore I have this problem. When you press the gas the voltage on the throttle position sensor climbs up, so the sensor itself seems to be working properly. That sounded reasonable and I went to the dealer to reprogram the computer but this morning the car was shaking a bit again. It wasn't that cold so i have to wait for a colder morning but it didn't seem to help. What's your opinion on this TPS thing? Thanks
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    It would be nice if you could switch the TPS out with a known good one; failing that, I'd like to know just what the dealer's "reprogramming" is supposed to accomplish. If the TPS voltage is fluctuating at idle it sounds like the problem is the TPS.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Member Posts: 160
    well, I just got the computer reprogrammed. As with all previous repairs, it seemed to improve cold start up but not 100%. Reprogramming the computer seems to be a common thing for Maxima. I think they upload the latest software onto the computer, it's like upgrading BIOS on your PC motherboard. There are technical service bulletins released by Nissan where reprogramming is listed as the solution for certain problems, one of those bulletins talks about car stalling or idling bad in the morning when temp is below 40F and when you put it in drive and reprogramming is required. Well, it kind of sounds like my problem except for the fact that the car also idles bad in park as well... I have to wait for the really cold morning, so far it hasn't stalled on me and idled better but it was 38F outside, I usually get problems when it's 33F or below...

    As far as TPS the mechanic showed me that when he presses the gas the voltage climbs up on the TPS and therefore he concluded that the sensor itself is fine...
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Member Posts: 160
    div2, I got an advise on another forum that I need to replace my thermostat. It kind of seems to be in the right area - cooling but I don't experience any problems related to thermostat, like bad heating or temp guage climbing up too slow, all of that is fine. I do get a suspicious noise only when the car warms up on cold mornings - when the rpms drop I hear a rattling noise or water-going-down-the-drain noise on the passenger side of the engine and then the noise goes away when the car is warm. Can that be the thermostat struggling to open or close? Will a lazy thermostat cause my cold whether bad idling problems? Thanks
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    If the thermostat is stuck open or is opening too soon then the car would take a long time to reach operating temperature-if it reached it at all. However, have you checked to make sure that all the air has been bled out of the cooling system? That could be the source of the noises.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Member Posts: 160
    no, I didn't check, in fact they were using a machine, some sort of a pump to flush and refill the antifreeze. So, if I open the air release valve and start adding antifreeze into the radiator until it starts spilling from the air release valve, should that let any air in the coolant system out? Or should I replace all antifreeze again?

    You mentioned air leaks previously, how exactly do you find them. I don't see any with naked eye but may be I should listen to them or spray something on the hoses to see? Thanks
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    So, if I open the air release valve and start adding antifreeze into the radiator until it starts spilling from the air release valve, should that let any air in the coolant system out? Or should I replace all antifreeze again?

    I'd use the procedure given in the Nissan shop manual.

    You mentioned air leaks previously, how exactly do you find them.

    Here's a good desciption of the procedure.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Member Posts: 160
    div2, mechanic inspected the car more thoroughly - no air leaks, he sprayed some stuff on all vacume hoses and they are all good. He found a more serious problem though - there is oil on one fo the spark plugs, I don't know how much but there is. When he was warming it up in the morning and got bad idle, he said that it sounded like one cilynder was misfiring and when he found oil on the spark plug he said that this is it - oil leaking into one of the cylinders. He said that he would need to do exploratary surgery on the engine, open it up and if it's just seals or rings leaking oil that it will be a $200 job but if it's more then that like pistons then I am better off replacing the car. I knew about this oil leak a year ago but never thought it could cause problems I am having simply because it never happended in warm weather but he explained that when oil is cold then it takes time for it to burn off the plug and when it's warm then it doesn't have time to collect in the cylinder. For $200 I think I should try and fix it and I do hope that it's just the seals/rings. What do you think about all this, does this sound like a cause for the cold engine idle/stalling problems I've been having? Can you explain what an oil leaking into the cylinder would be causing and why did it start leaking in the first place. I appreciate your help. Thanks
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Well, I don't see any way that you could get rings replaced for only $200, so your mechanic must be talking about just the valve seals. Has a compression and/or cylinder leakdown test been performed?
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Member Posts: 160
    Not sure but would these tests determine exactly what the problem is and what is leaking?
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Either tests would give you a good indication as to whether the rings in that cylinder are in bad shape.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    compression test can easily fool you into making false conclusions (for instance you can have good compression and lousy oil rings) but a cylinder leakdown test is pretty conclusive.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Member Posts: 160
    can you advise how the cylinder leakdown test is performed? Does it require disassembly of engine parts? Also, if I have oil on one spark plug and I have symptoms only on cold mornings until the car warms up then does that sound serious or as div2 suggested, can it be only the oil valve seals?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    No no disassembly required. You just remove the spark plugs one at a time and insert a special plug that allows you to fill the cylinder with compressed air. You then measure the % of leakage over a period of time. The nice part is that if you make sure the tested cylinder is on TDC (both valves closed) then if there is a leak you can actually hear it out the tailpipe (exhaust valve) or air cleaner (intake valve, guides, etc.) or in the crankcase (piston rings).

    I'm not sure but I don't think cylinder leakdown is a good test for bad valve stem seals---you can test that easily on a road test....
  • frostycpufrostycpu Member Posts: 1
    Hey, I own a dodge colt 200GT '92. I've been having problems in cold (well, doesn't need to be that cold) weather. What happens is, I turn on my car and everything is running great. But, let's say I turn on my fan/lights/wippers, my car starts to make a somewhat loud screeching noise.

    I've tested this while being on the highway. At some point, it started screeching while I was driving. What I did is I turned off my plug-in heater (through the lighter), and turned down my fans a notch and the screeching stopped right away.

    Im wondering if my alternator could be starting to break down and if I should replace it. It seems that it only does this noise when I use a lot of electricity.

    Thanks for the help!

    P.S Feel free to email your answer ;D
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Member Posts: 160
    OK, my cold weather bad idling and stalling issue was fixed. It was an EGR valve tube, which goes out of the manifold and into the EGR. It was clogged and that was causing too much pressure and eventually caused oil leak. The saw the oil leak and when the manifold was removed they saw the clogged valve and determined it to be the cause of my problems. I had that tube cleaned, oil seals and gaskets replaced and manifold gasket replaced as well. Not an expansive repair and the problem is fixed, car idles perfectly on a cold mornig. Thanks to all for your help. One question - what caused this tube to get clogged? Bad gas?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Nah, EGRs just clog up with age. But I don't think that had anything to do with your oil leaks. That's a PCV valve issue. EGR is exhaust gas recirculation. A clogged PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve can cause excessive crankcase pressure and oil leaks. So you're mixing two things up there---but no matter, the car's running great so that's good news.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Member Posts: 160
    Question, and this is pretty specific. They replaced the Valve Cover gaskets, both the main gasket and the spark plug tube seals. The mechanic noticed that the three original front seals are thicker then the rear three. The front valve cover seemed to have deeper wholes for seals then in the rear. However the set that they got from parts store had all six same spark plug tube seals. The seals from the set had "made in Japan" on them but it wasn't from Nissan, some aftermarket. Nissan dealer doesn't sell this set, they only sell it with volve covers. Now, is this possible that three spark plug tube seals should be thicker then the other three? Why would that be? The mechanic installed them because originals were leaking, they went in fine but he had his doubts. I am not experiencing any noticeable issues with the car right now but I don't know if a tiny leak at that seal would be noticeable any way...

    I will go to AutoZone to look at their gasket sets but let me know if this sounds strange to you...

    Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It does sound weird but sometimes engineers will do weird things. I always try to buy gaskets strictly from the dealer for this reason. They FIT.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Member Posts: 160
    ye, agreed but Nissan sells the set with valve covers and it's like $220... Why do I need new valve covers, what, they can't sell just the gasket set... Damn...
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    That I don't know...that also sounds suspicious to me...maybe you should try another dealer.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    When I owned my Pathfinder I used Brown and Brown Nissan in AZ for parts. Prices were much less than the local dealers and the parts guys knew their stuff-once they told me that all I needed was a $4 part instead of the $70 part I originally requested...
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Member Posts: 160
    Just contacted Beck and Arnley, they make the most expensive gasket set($97) and it's available in AutoZone, they say that all six spark plug tube seals are identical and that Nissan upgraded the dsign at some point and their part matches Nissan specifications. I guess I am good but yes I will go to a different dealer and inquire there. Thanks for your help.
  • nycqnycq Member Posts: 3
    Hello,
    Recently in January my Maxima stalled and was towed to the nearest dealership they ran the diagnostic and then replaced the MAF then the IACV...the car after that stalled once but I was able to drive it. Yesterday the check engine light came on again .I got a preliminary diagnositc code from Autozone Idle control system..and then the car stalled again.. Some mechanic were in the parking lot of Autozone and they raised the idle higher . The car is running didn't stall after that but the check engine sign is still on...Please help ....I been back and forth with the dealer who is not very helpful...and costing me $$$ what do u think is wrong
  • uwestefuwestef Member Posts: 2
    I have a cold start problem on my '98 maxima. The engine gets started but shut off right after starting. This happens only when the car sit outside overnight, but could happen any time of the day, morning, afternoon or evening.

    What's interesting is this:
    Yesterday when I could not get the engine started, I pulled the fuel pump fuse and then I was able to start the engine without the fuse on. Then I turned the engine off and put back the fuse, I tried to start the engine and it actualy started! I tried the same thing today and it worked too.

    I could not figure out why it does this but I am sure this would mean something to a good mechanic or DIY expert. Could you please help to explain this and provide advise how to fix the issue?
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Member Posts: 160
    if you have a SES light then what's the code? You seem to be saying that it's P0505 for IACV?
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Member Posts: 160
    seems to have to do with fuel/fuel pressure. Start with cheapest solution - replace fuel filter and then look into other fuel components if it doesn't help.
  • nycqnycq Member Posts: 3
    The first time the car stalled the codes were for MAF sensor and IACV which were replaced...then now last week the car stalled again the idle speed was set higher I took it to the dealership and they codes P0505 were for IACV and knock sensor but the dealership said it was the ECU , they got the ECU replaced it and there was no communication between the ECU and the car so they said it was some wiring of the IACV and finally now saying that it was the diaphragm of the IACV and that they ordered another IACV when they just replaced it about two months ago from the Nissan warehouse. This is presently not costing me $$$ but it doesn't make sense and the dealership is not answering any question directly. What do you think
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Member Posts: 160
    Well, I had P0505 code and they replaced IACV and ECU in one visit. The explanation for replacing both was quite vague. First it was that ECU always goes with IACV and later it was that I had multiple error codes in ECU. I don't know but that problem is gone. I think that IACV was fine and it was a defective computer only. In your case if you already did the original repair and now they accept that there is a problem again with the parts that they put in then let them deal with it until you are clear of all the codes, they have to, you have all the receipts and their work is warrantied. One important piece of information for you and I bet you will thank me for this - the ECU is covered under Federal Emissions Control Warranty for 8 years or 80K miles and so you should not have paid anything for it if you have under 80K on your car.
  • nycqnycq Member Posts: 3
    Hello,
    After the IACV and ECU was replaced the car stalled again less than 50 miles brought it back to the dealer and the same code P0505 read..again the IACV was ordered and replaced and the dealership states everything is okay again...After I drive another about 50-70 miles the check engine sign lights up and the car stalls again this time I had the car towed and the dealership after checking wire etc.. said they have to replace both the IACV and ECU at the same time....so now this is the third IACV and 2nd ECU.
    I specifically asked them to please make sure thats what is I don't want to put my self in danger and the car stall in the middle of the highway. So again they reassure me and tell me they are very confident that everything is fine. Now another 3 days pass again my car stalls this time the check engine sign did not go on and again I had the car towed to the dealership. I paid for the tow they did not even offer a tow....GOt to the dealer and the service manager gets in the car after its taken off the tow truck and runs into the same problem wher the car turns on but it will not drive...he then presses on the gas with real force 2 -3 x and you can see smoke from the muffler smelling like gas..and he was able to drive the car..the tech looked at it and the code that come now is knock sensor and NAF ( it the keys) , but they said they erased those codes and the problem was the TPS which needed to be readjusted....again the car was tested with a road test and again the dealership states everything is okay. The car drove may be for about three days and stalled out again on me...now this time I used the technique that the service manager used by applying the gas and the car was driveable again for another three days...since the last visit to the dealer ship the car stalled about 5-7 times and each time I used the same technique....I found another mechanic that was referred to me..and he encountered the stalling problem so after he evaluated the car he said it was the Temperature sensor which was changed for $30. this was about a week ago...Now the car has not stalled ...the car drove smooth for the first couple of day but when it picks up speed the idle goes very high to about 2 - 3RPM before the car picks up speed. and the first few minutes into driving when the car is driven there is knocking noise that is heard...that was present before but its getting louder....
    PLEASE HELP I DONT KNOW WHAT ELSE TO DO>>>>THE car was brought brand new and is only 65000 miles. Ive taken it to 3 dealerships and 2 mechanics outside.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Member Posts: 160
    my stalling issue was not as serious as yours and P0505 did come up and I had IACV and Compute replaced. I tried reading up on it and had temp sensor and MAF replaced myself but that didn't help. Now that you mention pinging, you may have the same issue I had - clogged up EGR Valve tube. EGR stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation. Basically, exhaust gases are pumped back into the engine to lower the combustion temperature, the only reason is to reduce air pollution. EGR Valve tube or passage clogging will cause your car not to idle steady and stall and it will most definitely cause pinging even when using 93 octane. Here is the service I had done with a private mechanic, which fixed the issue - removed intake manifold, removed EGR Valve tube and cleaned it out. Also, since the manifold is off he replaced manifold gaskets, valve cover gaskets and cleaned throttle body. The service costed me $250 including all gaskets and it was a three hour job but the mechanic was good, he knew what he was doing and did this before. Go this route, I think that clogged up tube was causing various sensors to malfunciton because of improper air-fuel mixture all the time. The computer was trying to adjust but when it failed then it would display some sensor being defective. The dealer would not want to do this service, they only replace the part based on computer reading, which is usually easiest. Pretty much any sensor can be replaced without too much disassembly. Try this and let me know how it goes. I wouldn't replace any more sensors before digging under the intake manifold.
  • agonzales7854agonzales7854 Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone had any luck with this problem?? I have the same problem with my 2001 Maxima.

    It all started with a leaking muffler. The day all the problems started, the seam at the muffler flange broke. I was on the highway when it broke so nothing happened until I went to exit the highway. When I let off the throttle the engine shut off. I couldn't start it for the life of me. It would immediately shut off after turning over. I noticed that when I held the gas down the car would start. Just to get the car home I turned up the idle stop and brought it home to troubleshoot.

    The next day after the car was warmed up I moved the idle stop back down and the car stayed on. I replaced the muffler and the car seemed to be fine. One the car cooled down I had the same issue. I only have to hold the throttle opne for about 30 seconds and gently release the gas and it will stay running. I noticed that the higher idle at cold temps never occur. The idle goes straight to warm idle 700-800 RPM's. I also never got any engine lights.

    So far I've removed and cleaned the intake, IACV, MAF, throttle body and I find nothing but normal wear. I also pulled one plug at a time while cranking the engine to check if I had a leaky injector but I had no luck. I putt he scanner on it and the temp reads correctly and the throttle position checks out ok too. Ive got no vacuum leaks or engine codes. Once the car warms up, it starts fine, and after it sits for about 2-3 hours it wont start. I feel like im chasing a ghost here....

    Anyone had any luck??

    Thanks
  • guestguest Member Posts: 770
    My 2003 Montana when cold makes a ticking/ slappping sound that seems to come from the accessory belt. The frequency varies with rpm, but is about 4 ticks per second. Once warmed up, the ticking stops. The belt looks fine, as do the pulleys. I thought maybe the tensioner is isn't working right when cold, but don't know how to confirm. Any ideas?
  • robsmaxrobsmax Member Posts: 1
    I don't know if anybody out there can help me. I have what I think is the same problem. I got a temp. sensor from Nissan, but don't know where it goes. Can any body tell me how to do it?

    Thanks

    RS
  • jdfturbojdfturbo Member Posts: 1
    My F250 runs rough and seems to cut out at random intervals, especially during acceleration or low RPM/high torque driving. It starts and idles rough but doesn't die. The warmer it gets, the better it runs. After it is completely warmed up, it runs normally. The effect is severe when ambient temps are below 10F and gradually lessen until there is almost no effect at 60F.

    I've checked the resistance on the coolant temp and air temp sensors both hot and cold and the reading are close to what the maintenance manual says.

    Any ideas?
  • annfj1125annfj1125 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 4-door VW GTI. This winter, in the first storm of the season, ice formed at the bottom, front of my front doors, and the only way I could get out of the car was to force open the door, curling up the bottom corner of the door where it meets the front quarter panel. I even made my kids climb out the window on the passendger side to avoid bending that door, too, which was also full of ice. Sure enough, next snowstorm we had, that ice formed again, in the same place. If the door had not already been bent, it would have been. This is a great car, but there seems to be no way for me to avoid an annual repair of the same problem. Has anyone else had this issue?
  • cowlagcowlag Member Posts: 2
    Just wondering if you found out or solved this problem with the engine knock at start up please let me know. Some people say that is normal and others say it could be a lifter problem or oil compression problem at start up. Let me know what you think or try and email me at billabongsurfer@juno.com thank you.
    joe
  • cowlagcowlag Member Posts: 2
    Just wondering if you found out or solved this problem with the engine knock at start up please let me know. Some people say that is normal and others say it could be a lifter problem or oil compression problem at start up. Let me know what you think or try and email me at billabongsurfer@juno.com thank you.
    joe
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Are you referring to snow/ice that is thrown back from the front tire as you are driving, which then hardens on the door?

    If so....move south, we don't have snow here. Or, perhaps you could carry a stick of some sort. Put the window down, lean out the window, and use the stick to push/knock the snow/ice off.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Do you have mud flaps on your front wheel well? If not, you may want to invest in a set. This will help prevent the ice from building up in this area.
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