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Comments
I've also found 3/4 ton trucks from other manufacturers are in the same exact range, except for the really big GM 6.2 engines, which can get even lower.
Regards,
Dusty
Dusty
Bests,
Dusty
Thanks
I recently took a trip to Reno it's about a 500 mile trip averaged 15.3mpg, but also drove around the town of Reno a bunch. I also pull a 6,000 pound trailer with no problems, and I advise unless you're intending on doing SERIOUS towing it would be foolish to get a 410 rearend. Also if you were doing serious towing it would be foolish to get a V8 when you could get a diesel. With the 373 rearend I can pull my camp trailer from 4th gear at 60-70mph up the hill pacing pickups with no load. I'm sure i get surprising looks when they read HEMI on the side instead of CUMMINS. I know this is poor for fuel performance but I just can't hold back the power! :mad:
Your excused!!
Enjoy that Hemi.
Best regards,
Dusty
523 miles on the odometer with slighty under a 1/4 tank of gas remaining... YAY!
stealing my Chevy driving brother's fuel economy bragging rights... PRICELESS!!! :shades:
Got some questions for ya.
Is there any type of indicator, such as a light, to let the driver know if the 5.7 is in 4 cylinder or 8 cylinder mode?
Does the engine switch to 4 cylinder mode only at "LIGHT" cruising applications, or will it also use 4 cyl when idling or driving around local and back roads with a very light foot?
Is there a "Real Time MPG" display as well as the "Average Mileage" one?
If so, are the above in a particular package or trim level?
What does "TOW MODE" actually turn on or off or whatever?
Thanks,
Kip
Is there a "Real Time" mileage indicator on the display computer. It would constantly be changing. ie Going downhill it might show 24 mpg and going up hill it might show 14 mph as examples.
I'm talking about showing the fuel mileage (MPG) as it is actually happening. Something to help the driver know just what speed to run for best mileage.
Thanks,
Kip
Regards,
Dusty
I believe that the 4 cyl mode is activated when at a steady speed, no matter what the speed. I've never felt it kick in at a standstill. It might not be activated below a certain speed though. My question on the "MDS" is does it shut down the same 4 cylinders every time, or do they alternate?
Your transmission is electronically controlled. In tow mode, the computer changes the shift points. As you accelerate, it takes longer to shift into 2nd, 3rd, etc. What the computer is attempting to do is keep you in the higher torque range in all gears. If you shifted into 2nd in a lower torque range (low rpm) while pulling a lot of weight, it's harder on the trans / engine.
Wonder if "TOW MODE" also disables the MDS !
Kip
Empty, at 65 pmh I get about 21-22 mpg. Around town about 15. If I add the slide-in camper it drops to 13 on the hiway. Add the 2 horse trailer and it drops to 10 mpg (this confiuration grosses about 18,000 lbs).
If I go back will the mileage come back --- This is a 2004 dodge ram quade cab with 48000 mile on it
Tinkerdolittle
When you went "UP" in tire size, you "effectively" changed the gear ratio to a lower number. The larger the tire, the more change. The truck will not accelerate or "pull" as well with the larger tires.
Example: If you have a 3.55 axle ratio, you might now "EFFECTIVELY" . have a 3.40 or lower. Each time the larger tire rotates you move farther than you did with the old ones.
In reality you are moving farther down the road with each revolution of the entire drive train. Chances are good the speedometer sensor is reading something spinning, so at a given "spin" (RPM) it says you are going this fast and this distance. It thinks you are using the standard size tire it was calibrated to deal with. In reality you are going faster and farther than the gauges are showing. I don't know if there is a way to change or correct the speedometer.
In days of yore, it was simply a small speedometer gear on the side of the transmission.
You can check your speed/mileage with Expressway mile markers. At exactly 60 miles per hour, you should travel exactly 1 mile each minute. I generally do that for 10 miles. (A GPS works great and is much quicker).
You most likely will find that the 10 mile markers test resulted in your gauges saying you went 9.? miles.
Again...., "Effectively", you are getting better mileage than the math says.
Mileage can also be affected in a negative way if the new tire is wider. More rubber on the ground equals more friction and resistance.
You can find how much things have actually changed by measuring around the tread of the new tires vs the old ones. They both need to be inflated on a wheel. Do the math for the percentage of change.
Something else to keep in mind is the spare, should be the same circumference as the other tires. If it is smaller, it is having to spin faster to go the same distance. That "could" result in weird things happening with "anti- spin", axles if the spare is installed on the rear. It could also possibly affect, ABS, and/or stability control in some way. Maybe not!
Kip
Thank you for your reply.
What I hear from what you have said is that my gas milage may not have suffered, but there has been a little power loss. Which I have noticed when I go up to the mountains. I live in Colorado. I have noticed an increase in shifting frequency and I have to excelorate more on the hills. I haven't towed anything up the hill lately, but from what you have said -- it will work a little harder.
Will this add more stress to the drive train or perhaps I should say more than it was designed for?
I did go to a wider tire for when I go off the road. I felt that perhaps I needed a better foot print, but after listening to your comments -- I question my wisdom. What do you think? I a not a hard core fourwheeler. but I like to find a dirt road even if it has some fourwheel driving to find that fishing hole or trail to hike.
My truck has a overhead display available to me for milage and distance to empty and the like. I have been using it as my measuring stick. The owners manual tells me that it can calibrate all the data it get from the actual use it is getting on the road. I reset it after each tank full of gas to keep it acurate.
Thank you for the reminder of the spare too. I really appriciate you taking the time to listen and help.
Kip
I may go back to the factor size later because I don't like losing the power going up the hill.
I will also do the road test for milage. I will be interested in seeing just what happens. The manual says it recalibreates mileage -- we will see
Thanks.
Wrist pin 0.0004 (4.7), 0.0003 (5.7)
Piston-to-bore 0.0014
Connecting rod bearings 0.0006
Main bearings 0.0008
Camshaft bearing clearance 0.001
Valve stem clearance 0.0028
Piston ring pressure = 16 lbs.
Compare these tolerances to Ford and GM V8s. The real killer that contributes to long break-ins on Dodge motors is the piston ring pressures. Typical values are around 6 lbs. nowadays. Low ring pressures are used to reduce friction. On newer GMs they are 2 lbs., which is why they get good mileage out of the box, but also are prone to piston slap and oil consumption at higher mileage.
My 4.7 was not fully broken in until about 50K. That's when the mileage really started climb. Hemis are pretty much the same way.
Regards,
Dusty
I ended up going back to 35psi.
Regards,
Dusty
However, after about a month of ownership, the engine light went on—the dealer “fixed” it; then it came back on again in a couple days—the dealer “fixed” it again (I think they put in a new ECM). The only thing they told me was to make sure and run premium. Before the “fixes”, my mileage was about:
18 hwy, 14 city. But after, it dropped to about
12 hwy, 09 city.
My wife mentioned it to the dealer at the last oil change but she felt they just dismissed her, and offered no input after saying they would “check it out” during the oil change.
Last weekend I put on the K&N intake(57), but it did nothing for mileage. I am now thinking of trying out the Hypertech Max Energy programmer that claims a 2-5mpg increase—hoping it would not only improve nominal mileage, but “fix” the issue if the dealer programmed the computer to run richer for some reason.
a) does anyone have experience with gas mileage improvements w/programmers?
b) Anyone have any idea what the dealer would have done to impact mileage so much?
Thanks! Ron
.
Assuming that your driving style has not changed since the dealer made the repair, your 9 MPG city, 14 highway is definitely not right for this truck, even though it takes a long, long time to break the Hemi engine in.
Everyone I know gets 14 or better with their Hemis around town, and most better than 15. I was with a friend one weekend and he managed 18.5 on a highway trip and that was doing the speed limit (65 MPH).
I'd say something the dealer did wasn't right or there's something else wrong.
Best regards,
Dusty
Do you have the Hemi with the multi displacement system? It's possible that the shop in order to "fix" the problem just turned it off which would kill your gas mileage. I over heard a mechanic talking about doing this and not telling the vehicle owner, which would only server to really peeve me off. I wouldn't know how to check if this was turned off except for going to a different car shop. Does anyone else know of a different way of checking that the multi displacement system is turned on or off?
I have an 07 Ram 1500 quad w/ Big Horn Package and the 5.7L Hemi with MDS. I have about 4,000 miles on it so far.
jack@mopar-world.com