Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Diesel Questions and Problems in General (non specific makes)
guy2
Member Posts: 1
I have one of these fitted in a Range Rover - all the diesel pipes aew well fitted and have the appropriate straps holding them in place, however, the injector pipes keep snapping just short of the injector pump. There are no heavy vibrations and everything appears tight. no 3 has just gone again after only about 500 miles of very light motoring - anmy help or suggestions gratefully received. Thnks
Tagged:
0
This discussion has been closed.
Comments
I'll e-mail you about this.
thank you
Host
Severe vibration could break the lines but you state this isn't the problem.
Also, if the lines were "forced" to fit the injector pump, that is, bent to be able to screw into the pump, this constant force could break them in time. I have seen this happen with say exhaust systems that are "jacked into place" to meet their flanges, and I've seen it in brake lines that are bent with force to meet their mating nipples.
You might ask an observer STANDING TO ONE SIDE OF THE VEHICLE, NOT IN FRONT, with the hood open, to watch the engine movement as you step hard on the brake, put the vehicle in gear and apply gas in their first or "drive" and then "reverse".
If there is noticeable engine rotation, that's your problem IMO.
Thanks hoader
Pickups
There, you can talk to owners of these various trucks.
In general, I can offer my opinion that a diesel truck is great if you are towing something heavy, otherwise it doesn't make a lot of sense with diesel fuel prices being generally higher than even premium unleaded. As for diesel engines being "more long-lived" or "easier to maintain", that is really subject to a lot of interpretation.
My husband bought a 1995 Ford f 250 powerstroke diesel 4x4 a few months gack with about 68,000 miles. Currently 85,000 miles.
Long story short. On his way to Alaska, right now loaded with truck full of building materials and a four horse trailer full of building materials. Just left Redding CA about an hour ago. Called to say the oil pressure is going down. anybody out there know anything about this? is there a specific chat room or place i could get in touch with? Need help fast.
Thanks,
Wife
If the engine isn't overheating, you may need to run a better oil, like a synthetic. Perhaps your oil is too thin for this job.
But you know, it sounds like the truck may just be overloaded. Lumber is really heavy and so are horse trailers....you may be exceeding the truck's limits.
I'd say if he can't square away the oil pressure problem he'd better quit while he's ahead...turn around and come home or detach the trailer and lock it up someplace safe and come home empty.
One problem with pump and nozzle injection systems is that the lines carry very high pressure. As we learned in high school physics, a curved tube tends to straighten when internal pressure rises. Preformed fuel lines typically have no sharp curves and have looped areas to deal with changes in length when the line pressurizes without over stressing other spots. As the pump is mounted on the engine, motor mounts should not be a problem. The most likely cause in some of the lines (number 3?) may have been reshaped to fit under the hood.
Harry
Just wonderin'! :confuse:
PS: Some injection pumps have built in primers to help with this bleeding process but I don't know if yours does. You might check to see if there's a little plunger on the pump.
This system doesn't have a priming pump that I can find....that would be a worthwhile addition in my opinion.
Thanks for your help
thanks'
ryan
Harry
In our opinion, the factory transmission programming is quite well sorted out and works very well in the majority of applications. This factory programming affords torque converter lock-up clutch function only in 3rd and 4th gears. When towing uphill, with vehicle speeds that are below the converter unlock point, a significant amount of torque converter-induced transmission heat will build. Being able to hold the converter clutch in lock-up mode will prevent this unwanted heat build-up.
An annoying characteristic of the program is that it 'unlocks' the lock up clutch as soon as the throttle is released. The engine returns to a near idle speed and the truck just coasts down, without the benefit of being slowed by the engine.
A simple two-position toggle switch (Part #HDP1053) can be installed on the dash panel to provide a full, manual control of the lock up clutch. This will allow the manual locking of the torque converter in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears and this is beneficial when towing.
Under towing conditions when vehicle speed must be low due to traffic and or road conditions, the converter can now be held in the lock-up mode while the trans is held in 2nd or 3rd gear.
To accomplish this modification, you will need a two-position, three pole toggle switch. The one we use us a Cole-Hersee #5584.
You must locate the 'BROWN' wire coming out of the electrical connector at the transmission. This wire runs to the ECM and controls the lock-up function in the transmission.
You will interrupt this brown wire at some point conveniently away from the electrical connection on the transmission. Splice a wire to both the transmission-end of this brown wire as well as the ECM-end of it. These two spliced-on wires will run to the new dash mounted switch. We usually mount the toggle switch in one of the ‘block-off’ plates on the dash, however it can be mounted virtually anywhere you like.
The switch has three connector poles. Fasten the ECM-side wire to one END pole and the transmission-end wire to the other END pole of the switch. Route a wire from the CENTER pole on the switch to a suitable ground source.
In one position, the switch connects the ECM to the transmission to achieve factory control of the converter lock-up clutch. In the other position, the switch grounds the wire running to the transmission to force a lock-up of the clutch.
That's it—you are done with this installation.
You will find that the engine does not enjoy being held down below about 1500 rpm and that this manual type control will require a bit of getting used to. If, for instance, you forget to switch the manual control off before you stop the truck, you will find that upon leaving a stop, the shift to 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears will be rather abrupt, as the torque converter will be locked up.
We hope that you find this info helpful, however you must feel free to contact us with any questions you may have regarding your 6.5. We are dedicated to support of the 6.5 and are always happy to help.
Thanks for your help!!
Thankyou very much
The trouble is that it will start first time and run perfect but soon as you turn off and try to restart it will not fire, does not mater how long you run it for even if you switch off as soon as it fires it will not start.when left for about 1 hour it will restart.Have replaced fuel pump solenoid.I have rebuilt this motor.timing is right,compression is ok but when does not start motor turns over as if no compression.will not start on arostart in this condition.Hope to hear from you and thank you for your time.
:sick:
On the other hand, 2007 and future vehicles can NOT run on the older diesel fuel, as this will foul their emissions systems.
kcram - Pickups Host
2009 BMW 335i, 2003 Corvette cnv. (RIP 2001 Jaguar XK8 cnv and 1985 MB 380SE [the best of the lot])
kcram - Pickups Host
kcram - Pickups Host
The thing I like about the truck stops the most is they have fresh diesel and the price is often less than a regular station. Heck, some of the regular stations that keep their diesel at the highest price still have winter diesel and not very fresh. This is the situation that gives people a bad tank of diesel.