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Dodge Caliber
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Comments
I have a 2007 R/T with the 18" rims, loaded, yadda, yadda yadda. It has 18,000 kms, or roughly 11,500 miles. The weather here is just near freezing at night, relatively cool during the day. (Ottawa, Ontario, CAN.)
Twice in two days, I go to start my car, apply the brakes and attempt to take the trans out of park. It would not budge at all. The first time, it took about 2 minutes to finally get it into reverse, then last night it took about 20 minutes before it finally came out of park.
Is this a known issue? Anyone else in a similar climate area, or not, have this problem?
Before I go to the dealer Monday, I'd like to be armed with some known information, so anything you folks know about this, the very much appreciated it is here.
I still love my Caliber, but the love affair is wearing a bit thin.
Thanks everyone.
Roger in Ottawa.
that consists of a cable and if it is not adjusted properly it can give the
same problem of not coming out of PARK.
If you have not spotted it in the owners manual there is also an
PARK release bypass button/lever located on the passenger side
of the tranny hump,it's that little round pop out button on the side
so if your in a hurry you can get it out of PARK.
I will be at my Chrysler service counter tomorrow 7a.m. Fortunately, its a 10 minute walk from my house. They'll have to come and get it. Soon after, I will be ordering my Charger R/T which I should have bought in the first place. I should have listened to that little voice in my head that said never to buy the first model year of a new line. Oh well, live and learn.
FOR SALE: 2007 Caliber R/T, 18000 kms, loaded.
Cheers all.
Our SXT also has some major electrical glitches which would send the dash lights and such into a tizzy for no apparent reason. Wait a bit and it'd resolve itself. Forget about duplicating it for the dealership. We just got rid of that one, the R/T's fate doesn't seem much better now either.
cars with problems.
Make sure they check the battery and the fuse assy(TIPM) as there have
been reports of battery failure causing wierd electrical faults.
The no starting thing I did myself,accidently depressed lock/unlock
on key while starting and it refused to turn over-had to take the key
out of ignition then lock/unlock rplace and it started.
It must have something with key chip recognition!
Sorry to hear your ongoing struggle.
as it does more than hold fuses and again several have been replaced
due to errattic electrical problems.
My door still occasionally fails to latch when I close it (manual locks). It just bounces off the latch. I then have to pull the handle out slightly to shift the internal parts and it latches and locks. This also happened, fortunately, when I was a block from the dealer filling up with gas - so I drove over there holding the door closed with my hand, showed the service rep, and he "ordered" the parts although the computer didn't show any "TSB's" (technical service bulletins) on the issue. One year later and several calls to the dealer, still no parts - stonewalled.
The engine, or drive train, or heat shield, or something in the engine compartment still makes an occasional (1 in 20 times) "pocka-pocka-pocka" noise when started up cold (I have the 5 speed manual 1.8).
The dealer did flash the ECM (engine control module) with the revised engine control program very early in the car's life, and it ran smoother.
Never had any stalling issues. Engine is VERY smooth and has gotten stronger and stronger over time. Design seems to be good.
I was running Pennzoil Platinum 5-20 with 5,000 mile oil change intervals (no oil consumption) with dealer oil changes until my last oil change, when I went to 6,000 miles (maximum permitted by owner's manual) and had the service work done at Firestone (they did a nice alignment and wheel balancing for me and didn't try to "upsell" me so I have decided to take the car to them - since the dealers don't do warranty work anyway. :mad: ).
I made the following upgrades:
1. Very early, changed to top-rated (by Consumer Reports) Falken Ziex 512's. Stiffer side-walls than the stock tires, which made up for the higher profile on the stock 15" wheels. Supposedly America's Tire Stores did a Hunter GSP 9700 "Road Force" balance but I felt some irregularity in the tires at freeway speeds - in other words the new set up wasn't as smooth as stock. This was corrected by a very ecomical re-balance (with 9700) at Firestone a few weeks ago, the tires are very smooth now.
2. Had to push to get the ECM re-flashed. Worth it, no more tendency to lose rpm at idle and "stumble". Also no more occasional "power outages" where the ECM seemed to "choke" and shut down the motor for a millisecond at slow speeds.
3. Replaced the stock shocks/struts and springs with the R/T shocks/struts and springs. I just copied down an R/T VIN off the internet, found a discount Dodge dealer on the internet, and ordered the parts - actually much cheaper than buying after market performance parts like Eibach or H&R, plus I got a firmer suspension without losing ride height (I LIKE the stock ride height). This is not the first time I have upgraded the suspension in a cheapy base model trim line to the performance trim lines components. It is one of the reasons I still buy American small cars, they usually have a performance version and for less than $600 (parts and labor) you can have essentially the same suspension (except sway bars) as the ritzy version. And still have the smaller, more fuel efficient engine.
4. Replaced plugs at 22,000 miles. Our cars use conventional spark plugs with a 30,000 mile service life (city or highway driving). But when I was a Neon owner, the forums all recommended 15k replacement intervals to maximize performance (or gas mileage, if you drive it easy). The Firestone shop replace the conventional plugs with Bosch Platinum for $63 parts and labor, much cheaper than the conventional plug replacement at the dealer. I really can notice a difference - when cold, the engine now runs like it is warmed up, smooth and strong, and when warm I can "lug" the engine down to very low rpm in each gear, or rev it up high with more perceived smoothness.
5. Switched to premium fuel about 3k miles ago, and noticed a big difference in smoothness, ability to "lug", ease of hitting high rpm. Yes, our engines put out a lot of horsepower for their displacement - they have a lot of technology in them, including a sophisticated variable valve system licensed from their former owner, Mercedes. Yes, apparently our ECM's are "adaptive" with knock sensors and will although different spark advance etc. based on the knock-resistance (octane) of the fuel we use. While I never heard actual "spark knock" on regular, running premium really unleashes the potential of our motors. Considering the money some people drop into cold air intake systems (I haven't) or performance mufflers (I haven't - can't stand the extra noise), using premium gas is cheap.
All in all this is a well designed car, of average to below average build quality, with terrible manufacturer and dealer support. The only compelling reason to buy this, is the fact that there isn't any compact/small car that pulls off the "midsize" car imitation so well - it is wide enough for two child seats in the back with a 12 year old back there too, and has plenty of leg room. In fact we even took it up to Tahoe instead of using our minivan, when I couldn't get chains in time for the minivan, and it hauled a family of 5 plus our junk just fine, and got 30 mpg (my usual commute mpg is 31 mpg). The closest competitor is the Toyota Matrix, which costs more, is smaller, and didn't have side curtain air bags before (I think the '09 finally has them).
I have a feeling that I am stuck keeping this one for the foreseeable future (the used car auction market is glutted, and this thing has depreciated $2,000 more than my typical econocar). Fortunately while the defects it has are annoying, they aren't reliability threatening, and the parts that count - brakes, engine, suspension - all seem rock solid.
If the Japanese made this to their usual standards instead of Chrysler - or if a Toyota dealer even took care of the defects instead of the "stonewall you" Dodge/Chrysler dealers - this car, for its design alone, would be a top pick.
And yeah, I'm through buying American cars just to be patriotic. If those jerks can't fix the defects (I'll accept the fact that they can't build defect free) after the fact, on a single visit, life is too short to deal with them any more.
Also what are the differences between '07 and '08?
Thanks
Have been to the dealer a few times and they have not been able to fix it yet.
Anyone have any suggestions or experience with this? :confuse:
evaporator which located in the dash about at its center.
The problem arises from using the ac/defrost cycle both of which
use the evaperator to remove water/humidity from the cabin area.
You can help prevent it by running the HEATER only on high for
several minutes before turning the car off.
If you spray Lysol with the fan on mid setting spray it thru the
cabin airfilter access behind the glovebox,you can spray the cabin
airfilter itself with Lysol or do as I did by placing a FEW drops of
liquid car scent (something you can live with) onto the cabin air filter.
I have owned Chrysler cars since 1984 and this crops up in some
models more than others.
Since scenting the filter and letting it run on heat only for a few minutes
I haven't noticed it all winter.
The Caliber platform vehicles are the Caliber, Avenger, Sebring, Jeep Patriot, and Jeep Compass.
Emailed dealer today, Sunday of course so no answer. Will follow up after repairs, hopefully?
the AC evaporater overflow drains out in the gas pedal area.
I have seen 2 or 3 posts in the past two years about the drain in the engine
compartment becoming clogged and creating this problem.
If you lift the carpeting up in that area you can see the hose and the hole
it goes thru.
I know this because I have been to several different dealerships to test drive different vehicles and every single salesman I went with when we got to small talk about cars in general didn't seem to know a whole lot. One didn't know that the S-10 I currently drive was available with a V-6, the other thought a Colorado could be had with a V-6, another didn't know the difference between a Cobalt base, LS, SS and Supercharged SS (we were even test driving a Colbalt at the time). Not that I am saying I know everything, but I try and keep up with what the automotive world produces to a certain extent and so I feel my knowledge base is a little broader than some. Also note that all my experience is at GM - more specifically Chevy dealerships, so can't compare saleman across brands, but would think that some aspects of a saleman would hold true no matter what dealership or brand they were selling.
FWIW - do your research before stepping on the lot and it may surprise you how much more you will know than the salesman...
Now back to the topic at hand.... I am a long-time classic mopar fan even though everything in my driveway is GM... I love the old Chargers, Roadrunners, Cudas, and Darts. Today a little different story. The 5 Pointed Stars products in the later part of the century and the first part of the decade have been hit and miss with me. Even the Neon SRT-4 didn't really impress me - it was like a girlish car on steroids. Great performance, but it's hard to make an oval headlighted face like the Neon's look aggressive. The Viper was a unbeatable fire breathing snake, but GM has it beat now with the C6 Z06. I have also like the Magnum and Charger as well, and would would have bought a Magnum, but it's looks didn't sit well with my wife so I got saddled with an Impala, plus I couldn't afford an RT Hemi version and most likley would have been stuck with a V6 model.
Now the Caliber is out. First impressions are not too bad - good agressive looks, and "fun" options such as the fold-down speakers in the hatch. Also looks to be versatile - but maybe Chrylser will step on it's own toes by being to much like the PT Cruiser? Or maybe the Caliber's looks will be enough to set it apart so that it can appeal to a much broader base.... those that didn't like the Cruiser because of it's laid back appearance can now go with the Caliber with it's more aggresive in your face appearance that Dodge has "perfected". Anyway, neat looking for those that like that look, but it sounds like performance is not up to par. Niether was the first Cruiser but that alll changed with the PT Turbo so I expect the same for the Caliber. Dodge has a good thing for the most part - I probably just won't be buying because I don't see it suiting my needs.
I would like to see a Caliber pitted against a Cruiser, Matrix, Mazda 3 hatch, and an HHR and see who comes out on top... my bet is it won't be the Caliber, and it will most likey be the Mazda, but who knows???
However having said that, I did just go back through the forum to see exactly what was said that could have caused offence. Here is the quote from the said user you named: "I actually like the body colored grill, makes it look more 'manly .'" I fail to see how that is offensive. It seems as if he would rather have the body colored grill which you were supplied with on your vehicle. It seems your complaint is that you were delivered a vehicle that did not have the body color grill and was curious as to why. The following response to that was the quoted one above as well as several others following that stated trim levels and such that others had found in relation to the chrome or body color. So again I fail to see how you were offended by a "snide" remark and again how the claim you make that you "got no info, only some snide remark..." is valid. A remark was made that a particular individual feels that the body color grill makes the car look more "manly". It was not directed at you. He did not say you're not "manly" or wanting a chrome grill make you less "manly."
Now if you decide to not participate in these forums because you feel snide remark was made and it was directed at you, that is your choice. No one is going to stop you from leaving and not being here. Personally I think it is selfish to do so. These forums are a great place to find out info on just about every car made. Unfortunately there are going to be a few who feel they have to antagonize and cut others down. That is just part of life. Hopefully when it happens the person that was offended can see through the shallow comment and realize that there is a whole lot more than just "snide" comments. I would also hope that one would be able to determine the difference between a "sinde" remark and a general comment that may or may not be "politically correct", but it is not directed at anyone person.
So in short and hopefully I don't get chastised by the host because this is way off topic, I would say, sorry you were offended, but deal with it, and get on with life. I doubt this forum is full of losers that have no life as you indicate. You were offended by one person. I don't even think that person even intended to offend or direct his comment at you. That does not make the whole forum full of losers with no life. Althou a number of people responded to your post, you obviously didn't see the answer you were looking for. It could have meant a number of things like maybe nobody knew the answer immediatly so rather than sound dumb and spout some BS, they remained quiet. Or I have noticed that since I began watching this forum a few days ago, it has several new posts a day. The conversation here goes so quickly it is easy for a question to get lost especially if there is a hot debate going on at the moment and the question happens to not be on the same topic of the debate. Or it could have been any number of reasons.
So instead of huffing and puffing and calling everybody losers, take stock of the whole situation and let it blow by. If you haven't gotten an answer to your question, as the question again, or I have found that sometimes it helps to make a comment on the current debate going on, and then as a P.S. ask the question. Anyway, 'nuff said. Hope you decide to stay here at Edmunds. This is a great place to get good reliable info about your vehicle. I don't know if there is anywhere else on the web that is as comprehensive as Edmunds....
free of charge.
I had 18-031-07 done on mine over a yr ago and it made a noticeable
difference.
There is a procedure you can do yourself that may help and this is
a proven method tested by many Caliber owners.
1-Turn the ignition to RUN but DO NOT start.
2-Depress the gas pedal to the floor SLOWLY while counting to 15.
3-Release the gas SLOWLY again counting to 15.
4-Turn ignition to OFF and remove key.
5-Restart and take a test drive.
This procedure recalibrates the linarity of the fly by wire accelerator.
You can do this as often as you feel needed.
Has anyone ever had this happen. My front coil spring isolator came apart on me while driving down the highway and after that happened my steering would make an awful grinding noise. I have had it repaired under warranty but just thought it odd that that would happen. I drive an 08 caliber s/e .
I have frequented a number of Caliber forums for over
2 yrs now and this is the 2nd post (doesn't mean there
aren't others) I have seen about that problem.
The other post was a '07 Caliber mfg'd in early '06.
2007 Caliber, R/T model, auto. transmission. 30,500 kms as of today.
In Oct 2007, I could not get it out of park no matter how much pressure I put on the brakes. I had to pop open the small access hole on the right of the tranny box and was able to manually get it out of park. Drove straight to the dealer and they replaced a relay switch that was defective. Ok fine!
July 2008, same thing. Drove to the dealer and left it there. They replaced this switch again, but said I had no brake lights. Later that day, surprise!, I had brake light. So I picked up the car - all is well.
Today, Aug 25th, same thing. Manually popped it out of park and straight to the dealer. This time I told him that there is no point in replacing a faulty part, with another faulty part ! Makes sense don't it? Service manager and mechanic mulled over my car, himmed and hawed a bit, then told me that they suspect it is a cellunoid switch in the shifter. Of course they don't have the part and it will be ordered in from Montreal and arrive early am.
Long story short ..... Any one else have this exact issue and have had a successful conclusion to the problem?
Thanks all.
Roger in Ottawa.
chased it down to the wiring on the switch that actuates the park lock
solenoid-it was rubbing and had frayed.
horrible, so don't understand WHY:::> Anyway, got 19,000 miles on the car, now,
routinely driven at speeds between 80 and 125MPH. Interestingly enough, didn't
IMAGINE you could actually put the CRUISE-CONTROL on at over 100MPH-- but
you can. By the way, in Germany, in most places, there ISN'T a speed-limit, but
if you CAN'T maintain at least 85MPH, it's just SAFER to stay on the backroads.
I was passed one day by a collector's old VW-Beetle German Police Car (which,
originally, really DID have a Porche engine). It's NEAT to actually be able to speed
on down the road-- to and from work-- and TRY and keep up with a LOTUS. I've had
no problems with my car, other than having the ABS replaced. I had the snow-tires--
and the crappy rims put on the car till the spring thaw-- and my Chrome-clad
ones can resurface. Absolutely no problems-- well-- I guess I'll be honest and say
at MY height, I've replaced MOST of the wiperblades some a couple inches longer--
so I can see out the windows... and I keep the rearseats DOWN all the time... for
the SAME reason.
The sound is very throaty and gives the car a bit more power. And I think my milage is better as well.
after you used the stuff in a spraycan called FIX-A-FLAT. The car shook slightly.
After reading your post, I figured I'd go get a car wash at one of the places, here in
Germany, that also washes the undercarriage. Thanks! Works fine again. I'll make
sure to NEVER drive my car off-road through a snowbank again... dumb idea: unless you own a carwash!
" Big Mac "
GERMANY
I know this from experience, because when I took delivery of my Caliber, I discovered that the dealer swapped out the alloy wheels with 15" steel wheels! I drove around with no problems (other than the low pressure light on and no pressure readout) for about 2 weeks while I waited for the dealer to order the new wheels.
Any thoughts? :confuse:
There seems to be little life in this particular forum.
What's up with that?
Peace!<-AladdinSane<- :shades: -
The Caliber is actually a great design. If it were made and backed by Toyota, I'd buy another in an instant. There's nothing out there with equivalent sizing, you can actually carry people in the back seat and still get good acceleration and gas mileage.
Given that I ran my Caliber up to 25,000 miles before trading it in, vs. 6,000 miles on most of my other short ownership cars, it had to have something appealing about it. But Dodge blew the marketing momentum by not taking care of their early adopters.
I'm glad to see Chrysler is refreshing the interior.
BTW Caliber was one of the top sellers during C4C.
What you say only confirms how leery I am with purchasing a 2010 Caliber...Why? It's not the vehicle itself...I'm pretty sure the Caliber is NOT a bad machine to own and with the interior improvements implemented by Chrysler for the new model year that may help the Caliber gain attention to itself in a positive way, finally. The problem? Chysler itself. With all the rhubarb this automaker's been going through I'm not sure I'd be willing to go with a manufacturer that treats its customers so poorly in the event of a warranty situation, or whatever. See? The lifetime powertain warranty they had is now kaput. I feel the company is now in freefall, so to speak.
Bottom line: the Caliber may be on it's road to recovery, but the company behind it is a mess...I'm still doubtful, but I DO agree the machine is worth it, no matter how many put it down for being junk.
Peace!<-AladdinSane<- :shades: -
and a software update in '06 the only other reason it's been in the
dealership was for new tierod ends.I believe the tierod ends are due
to our crappy roads and my penchant for formula 1 driving on expressway
ramps.
Having said that my dealership (independant) always treats me well
while not like a long lost son.I have dealt with them since '84 with new cars every
3-4 yrs and while having differences of opinion we treat each other with
respect and what my grandaughters call inside voices.lol
I think Chrysler is plagued with incompetent/poor dealerships thru out
the system,if your not happy with one try another it may be worth
the extra miles to be hassle free.
Over the years I have had many parts/adjustments done all hassle free
that's why I keep buying cars from the same dealer and all my cars
up to the time I retired in 2000 were used for business at abt 40-50000
kilometrs per year.