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Dodge Caliber

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Comments

  • caliberchiccaliberchic Member Posts: 402
    I love it! It's perfect, well except the MPG which sadly is about 10mpg less than the Caliber. :cry:
  • moparfancanadamoparfancanada Member Posts: 18
    Is there anyone out there that has experienced this problem? And if so, what did you do to correct it?

    I have a 2007 R/T with the 18" rims, loaded, yadda, yadda yadda. It has 18,000 kms, or roughly 11,500 miles. The weather here is just near freezing at night, relatively cool during the day. (Ottawa, Ontario, CAN.)

    Twice in two days, I go to start my car, apply the brakes and attempt to take the trans out of park. It would not budge at all. The first time, it took about 2 minutes to finally get it into reverse, then last night it took about 20 minutes before it finally came out of park.

    Is this a known issue? Anyone else in a similar climate area, or not, have this problem?

    Before I go to the dealer Monday, I'd like to be armed with some known information, so anything you folks know about this, the very much appreciated it is here.

    I still love my Caliber, but the love affair is wearing a bit thin.
    Thanks everyone.
    Roger in Ottawa.
  • habalanchehabalanche Member Posts: 57
    This may help.I had the exact same problem W/my Dakota.There was a clamp missing from the gear shift cable and it was somehow getting to close to the exhaust manifold.Upon first start up,it would not come out of park until the manifold got hot enough to melt the cable housing to allow movement.After the 2nd time it happened I took it to the dealer and they basically impounded the vehicle until they could get the clamp and new cable.It didn't take but a day to get it repaired and it never happened again.I don't know enough about the workings of the Calibers but it is an identical problem.
  • bigtsrbigtsr Member Posts: 149
    There is an interlock system between the ignition lock assy also
    that consists of a cable and if it is not adjusted properly it can give the
    same problem of not coming out of PARK.
    If you have not spotted it in the owners manual there is also an
    PARK release bypass button/lever located on the passenger side
    of the tranny hump,it's that little round pop out button on the side
    so if your in a hurry you can get it out of PARK.
  • moparfancanadamoparfancanada Member Posts: 18
    Thanks habalanche. My Caliber is currently in my garage and stuck in PARK. I have been trying for the last 4 hours to get it into gear. I've let it run and heat up, but no luck. The trans. appears very stuck in Park.

    I will be at my Chrysler service counter tomorrow 7a.m. Fortunately, its a 10 minute walk from my house. They'll have to come and get it. Soon after, I will be ordering my Charger R/T which I should have bought in the first place. I should have listened to that little voice in my head that said never to buy the first model year of a new line. Oh well, live and learn.

    FOR SALE: 2007 Caliber R/T, 18000 kms, loaded.
  • moparfancanadamoparfancanada Member Posts: 18
    Thanks bigtsr. I'll give it a go. Then drop it off at Ottawa Chrysler, then order my Charger R/T.
    Cheers all.
  • habalanchehabalanche Member Posts: 57
    Hope everything works out for you. bigtsr was probably on to something.I completely spaced on that.The problem was the same however.I too will be looking to move my Caliber (same as yours) as soon as it's paid off in 15 mos.I need to go back to a truck or SUV.Maybe a Ridgeline or a Toyota FJ
  • caliberchiccaliberchic Member Posts: 402
    Here to report that our 07 R/T seems to be as big as a bucket as our SXT. I love the car but both have stalling issues. The 5 speed would just randomly stall in neutral while idling and the R/T automatic is starting to not start up at all at times. Wait 10 mins and then it starts.

    Our SXT also has some major electrical glitches which would send the dash lights and such into a tizzy for no apparent reason. Wait a bit and it'd resolve itself. Forget about duplicating it for the dealership. We just got rid of that one, the R/T's fate doesn't seem much better now either.
  • bigtsrbigtsr Member Posts: 149
    That's too bad Caliberchic I didn't think anyone could get 2
    cars with problems.
    Make sure they check the battery and the fuse assy(TIPM) as there have
    been reports of battery failure causing wierd electrical faults.
    The no starting thing I did myself,accidently depressed lock/unlock
    on key while starting and it refused to turn over-had to take the key
    out of ignition then lock/unlock rplace and it started.
    It must have something with key chip recognition!
    Sorry to hear your ongoing struggle.
  • caliberchiccaliberchic Member Posts: 402
    They said bad battery and gave us a new one but it still starts slow so I don't think that was the fix. It's going back again.
  • bigtsrbigtsr Member Posts: 149
    Then I would go with the TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module)
    as it does more than hold fuses and again several have been replaced
    due to errattic electrical problems.
  • harmonychicharmonychic Member Posts: 9
    Does anyone know why you can not find the Dodge Caliber SXT without all of the extra stuff? I was told by a dealer that the msrp and invoice price on the sxt is a base price of a car that essentially does not exist. What I was told is that all SXT's come from the factory already packaged with additional items so it is impossible to get a regular standard dodge caliber sxt unless it is ordered from the factory. Does anyone have any information about this? Please help me out :)
  • w8n4mycaliberw8n4mycaliber Member Posts: 3
    I had to ordermine from the dealership... SXT, manual trans, with fog lights
  • micwebmicweb Member Posts: 1,617
    Still have a noisy trim rattle from the right rear passenger compartment. Dealer unable to duplicate noise on test drive (funny how American dealers with limited warranty $$$ to spend can't find this large noise, but Toyota and Honda both quickly identified and fixed trim noises on my Echo and '03 Civic).

    My door still occasionally fails to latch when I close it (manual locks). It just bounces off the latch. I then have to pull the handle out slightly to shift the internal parts and it latches and locks. This also happened, fortunately, when I was a block from the dealer filling up with gas - so I drove over there holding the door closed with my hand, showed the service rep, and he "ordered" the parts although the computer didn't show any "TSB's" (technical service bulletins) on the issue. One year later and several calls to the dealer, still no parts - stonewalled.

    The engine, or drive train, or heat shield, or something in the engine compartment still makes an occasional (1 in 20 times) "pocka-pocka-pocka" noise when started up cold (I have the 5 speed manual 1.8).

    The dealer did flash the ECM (engine control module) with the revised engine control program very early in the car's life, and it ran smoother.

    Never had any stalling issues. Engine is VERY smooth and has gotten stronger and stronger over time. Design seems to be good.

    I was running Pennzoil Platinum 5-20 with 5,000 mile oil change intervals (no oil consumption) with dealer oil changes until my last oil change, when I went to 6,000 miles (maximum permitted by owner's manual) and had the service work done at Firestone (they did a nice alignment and wheel balancing for me and didn't try to "upsell" me so I have decided to take the car to them - since the dealers don't do warranty work anyway. :mad: ).

    I made the following upgrades:

    1. Very early, changed to top-rated (by Consumer Reports) Falken Ziex 512's. Stiffer side-walls than the stock tires, which made up for the higher profile on the stock 15" wheels. Supposedly America's Tire Stores did a Hunter GSP 9700 "Road Force" balance but I felt some irregularity in the tires at freeway speeds - in other words the new set up wasn't as smooth as stock. This was corrected by a very ecomical re-balance (with 9700) at Firestone a few weeks ago, the tires are very smooth now.

    2. Had to push to get the ECM re-flashed. Worth it, no more tendency to lose rpm at idle and "stumble". Also no more occasional "power outages" where the ECM seemed to "choke" and shut down the motor for a millisecond at slow speeds.

    3. Replaced the stock shocks/struts and springs with the R/T shocks/struts and springs. I just copied down an R/T VIN off the internet, found a discount Dodge dealer on the internet, and ordered the parts - actually much cheaper than buying after market performance parts like Eibach or H&R, plus I got a firmer suspension without losing ride height (I LIKE the stock ride height). This is not the first time I have upgraded the suspension in a cheapy base model trim line to the performance trim lines components. It is one of the reasons I still buy American small cars, they usually have a performance version and for less than $600 (parts and labor) you can have essentially the same suspension (except sway bars) as the ritzy version. And still have the smaller, more fuel efficient engine.

    4. Replaced plugs at 22,000 miles. Our cars use conventional spark plugs with a 30,000 mile service life (city or highway driving). But when I was a Neon owner, the forums all recommended 15k replacement intervals to maximize performance (or gas mileage, if you drive it easy). The Firestone shop replace the conventional plugs with Bosch Platinum for $63 parts and labor, much cheaper than the conventional plug replacement at the dealer. I really can notice a difference - when cold, the engine now runs like it is warmed up, smooth and strong, and when warm I can "lug" the engine down to very low rpm in each gear, or rev it up high with more perceived smoothness.

    5. Switched to premium fuel about 3k miles ago, and noticed a big difference in smoothness, ability to "lug", ease of hitting high rpm. Yes, our engines put out a lot of horsepower for their displacement - they have a lot of technology in them, including a sophisticated variable valve system licensed from their former owner, Mercedes. Yes, apparently our ECM's are "adaptive" with knock sensors and will although different spark advance etc. based on the knock-resistance (octane) of the fuel we use. While I never heard actual "spark knock" on regular, running premium really unleashes the potential of our motors. Considering the money some people drop into cold air intake systems (I haven't) or performance mufflers (I haven't - can't stand the extra noise), using premium gas is cheap.

    All in all this is a well designed car, of average to below average build quality, with terrible manufacturer and dealer support. The only compelling reason to buy this, is the fact that there isn't any compact/small car that pulls off the "midsize" car imitation so well - it is wide enough for two child seats in the back with a 12 year old back there too, and has plenty of leg room. In fact we even took it up to Tahoe instead of using our minivan, when I couldn't get chains in time for the minivan, and it hauled a family of 5 plus our junk just fine, and got 30 mpg (my usual commute mpg is 31 mpg). The closest competitor is the Toyota Matrix, which costs more, is smaller, and didn't have side curtain air bags before (I think the '09 finally has them).

    I have a feeling that I am stuck keeping this one for the foreseeable future (the used car auction market is glutted, and this thing has depreciated $2,000 more than my typical econocar). Fortunately while the defects it has are annoying, they aren't reliability threatening, and the parts that count - brakes, engine, suspension - all seem rock solid.

    If the Japanese made this to their usual standards instead of Chrysler - or if a Toyota dealer even took care of the defects instead of the "stonewall you" Dodge/Chrysler dealers - this car, for its design alone, would be a top pick.

    And yeah, I'm through buying American cars just to be patriotic. If those jerks can't fix the defects (I'll accept the fact that they can't build defect free) after the fact, on a single visit, life is too short to deal with them any more.
  • midgetluvermidgetluver Member Posts: 7
    hey on www.andersonautogroup.com they have an sxt with no real extra options for $14,187 i think. it's on their lot in lincoln,ne. great dealership, i'm very pleased with them, joshua starr is out sales guy.. i almost bought it, but went with a malibu maxx instead. i think theyd go down to about $12,000. great shape.
  • speckedspecked Member Posts: 3
    Can anyone give me a comparison of the two vehicles please 1.8L? Manual tranny not interested in the CVT. Thanks
  • caliberchiccaliberchic Member Posts: 402
    I had both a manual 1.8 and the CVT 2.0 and I can safely say the CVT ran much better than the 1.8. It was smoother and faster, had less engine issues such as stalling, tac drops, etc.
  • speckedspecked Member Posts: 3
    Can anyone else give their opinions on this? I wanted to stay away from the CVT because I don't really trust the technology yet. The "professional" reviews from autos.msn.com say that manual is the way to go.

    Also what are the differences between '07 and '08?

    Thanks
  • speckedspecked Member Posts: 3
    never mind I found out thanks
  • canadacalibercanadacaliber Member Posts: 6
    Just wondering if anyone has had a wierd smell coming out of the vent on startup. it only lasts a few seconds...I have tried spraying lysol in through vent in firewall as suggested by dealer, but it hasnt done anything to fix the problem. Air smell is so bad I have to open the windows....even in below zero temps here in Northern BC
    Have been to the dealer a few times and they have not been able to fix it yet.
    Anyone have any suggestions or experience with this? :confuse:
  • bigtsrbigtsr Member Posts: 149
    The smell you are having is from mildew/fungal buildup on the AC/DEFROST
    evaporator which located in the dash about at its center.
    The problem arises from using the ac/defrost cycle both of which
    use the evaperator to remove water/humidity from the cabin area.
    You can help prevent it by running the HEATER only on high for
    several minutes before turning the car off.
    If you spray Lysol with the fan on mid setting spray it thru the
    cabin airfilter access behind the glovebox,you can spray the cabin
    airfilter itself with Lysol or do as I did by placing a FEW drops of
    liquid car scent (something you can live with) onto the cabin air filter.
    I have owned Chrysler cars since 1984 and this crops up in some
    models more than others.
    Since scenting the filter and letting it run on heat only for a few minutes
    I haven't noticed it all winter.
  • pmccordpmccord Member Posts: 3
    I just purchased a Jeep Patriot and I've noticed that the interior is pretty much the same as the Calibar.
  • micwebmicweb Member Posts: 1,617
    I read that Chrysler intends to upgrade the Caliber platform interiors starting with the Jeep in 2009. The Caliber will be upgraded later in the cycle.

    The Caliber platform vehicles are the Caliber, Avenger, Sebring, Jeep Patriot, and Jeep Compass.
  • gman64gman64 Member Posts: 2
    Our 2007 Dodge Caliber RT, 13000 miles has developed a leak into the interior front passenger compartment of the vehicle. It "appears" to be AC related? Water is visibly entering the passenger compartment and can be seen more predominantly on the passenger side but also in the area of the gas pedal. There is also a distinct sound of water running when turning at a slow speeds to the left, with the sound coming from the right front area. The problem continued even after shutting the AC off for 30 miles.

    Emailed dealer today, Sunday of course so no answer. Will follow up after repairs, hopefully?
  • bigtsrbigtsr Member Posts: 149
    Your probably right on with your diagnosis because that's where
    the AC evaporater overflow drains out in the gas pedal area.
    I have seen 2 or 3 posts in the past two years about the drain in the engine
    compartment becoming clogged and creating this problem.
    If you lift the carpeting up in that area you can see the hose and the hole
    it goes thru.
  • mek0123mek0123 Member Posts: 33
    Gman64, check your condenser drain tube. My 89 Shadow (many years ago) had a condenser tube that was plugged up. Because it had not been used in a long time, (2.5 years or so), the rubber just sealed itself shut. After about an hour of highway driving, I noticed the water on the floor, got out, looked for the drain tube to be leaking water and it didn't happen. Crawled under side of vehicle, squeezed the drain tube together and broke the temporary seal and lost at least a quart of water. I would assume either it's that or drain tube has separated from the drain pipe. It's a simple fix, just access might be difficult. At 13K miles and roughly a year old, it's not your problem.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    I know this is getting way off topic, but I couldn't resist replying about the saleman knowledge... I indeed find it true that a lot of saleman know very little about a lot of the products they sell... They are trained to sell cars, and so you would think they would know every aspect of them, but I have found they do not.

    I know this because I have been to several different dealerships to test drive different vehicles and every single salesman I went with when we got to small talk about cars in general didn't seem to know a whole lot. One didn't know that the S-10 I currently drive was available with a V-6, the other thought a Colorado could be had with a V-6, another didn't know the difference between a Cobalt base, LS, SS and Supercharged SS (we were even test driving a Colbalt at the time). Not that I am saying I know everything, but I try and keep up with what the automotive world produces to a certain extent and so I feel my knowledge base is a little broader than some. Also note that all my experience is at GM - more specifically Chevy dealerships, so can't compare saleman across brands, but would think that some aspects of a saleman would hold true no matter what dealership or brand they were selling.
    FWIW - do your research before stepping on the lot and it may surprise you how much more you will know than the salesman... :D

    Now back to the topic at hand.... I am a long-time classic mopar fan even though everything in my driveway is GM... I love the old Chargers, Roadrunners, Cudas, and Darts. Today a little different story. The 5 Pointed Stars products in the later part of the century and the first part of the decade have been hit and miss with me. Even the Neon SRT-4 didn't really impress me - it was like a girlish car on steroids. Great performance, but it's hard to make an oval headlighted face like the Neon's look aggressive. The Viper was a unbeatable fire breathing snake, but GM has it beat now with the C6 Z06. I have also like the Magnum and Charger as well, and would would have bought a Magnum, but it's looks didn't sit well with my wife so I got saddled with an Impala, plus I couldn't afford an RT Hemi version and most likley would have been stuck with a V6 model.

    Now the Caliber is out. First impressions are not too bad - good agressive looks, and "fun" options such as the fold-down speakers in the hatch. Also looks to be versatile - but maybe Chrylser will step on it's own toes by being to much like the PT Cruiser? Or maybe the Caliber's looks will be enough to set it apart so that it can appeal to a much broader base.... those that didn't like the Cruiser because of it's laid back appearance can now go with the Caliber with it's more aggresive in your face appearance that Dodge has "perfected". Anyway, neat looking for those that like that look, but it sounds like performance is not up to par. Niether was the first Cruiser but that alll changed with the PT Turbo so I expect the same for the Caliber. Dodge has a good thing for the most part - I probably just won't be buying because I don't see it suiting my needs.

    I would like to see a Caliber pitted against a Cruiser, Matrix, Mazda 3 hatch, and an HHR and see who comes out on top... my bet is it won't be the Caliber, and it will most likey be the Mazda, but who knows???
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    awww ... maybe I'll pick up a copy of Car and Driver for my plane ride later today. Usually read Motor Trend, but I try and read all the magazines once in a while to get a rounded view. Most magazines tend to be biased one way or the other on certain vehicles. I like Edmunds, it seems to be the least biased and the most accurate and "true to life". Of course on here as well you get "true to life" experiences from real owners and not just a couple miles in a test vehicle.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    Interesting comment... and I choose to answer by not defending whomever critized your "manhood". If indeed that did happen, then something of that nature should be reported to the host. These forums on Edmunds are supposed to be a friendly enviroment where owners of all types of vehicles can get together and discuss thier problems hopefully without being cut down, told they are stupid, or whatever.

    However having said that, I did just go back through the forum to see exactly what was said that could have caused offence. Here is the quote from the said user you named: "I actually like the body colored grill, makes it look more 'manly :D;) .'" I fail to see how that is offensive. It seems as if he would rather have the body colored grill which you were supplied with on your vehicle. It seems your complaint is that you were delivered a vehicle that did not have the body color grill and was curious as to why. The following response to that was the quoted one above as well as several others following that stated trim levels and such that others had found in relation to the chrome or body color. So again I fail to see how you were offended by a "snide" remark and again how the claim you make that you "got no info, only some snide remark..." is valid. A remark was made that a particular individual feels that the body color grill makes the car look more "manly". It was not directed at you. He did not say you're not "manly" or wanting a chrome grill make you less "manly."

    Now if you decide to not participate in these forums because you feel snide remark was made and it was directed at you, that is your choice. No one is going to stop you from leaving and not being here. Personally I think it is selfish to do so. These forums are a great place to find out info on just about every car made. Unfortunately there are going to be a few who feel they have to antagonize and cut others down. That is just part of life. Hopefully when it happens the person that was offended can see through the shallow comment and realize that there is a whole lot more than just "snide" comments. I would also hope that one would be able to determine the difference between a "sinde" remark and a general comment that may or may not be "politically correct", but it is not directed at anyone person.

    So in short and hopefully I don't get chastised by the host because this is way off topic, I would say, sorry you were offended, but deal with it, and get on with life. I doubt this forum is full of losers that have no life as you indicate. You were offended by one person. I don't even think that person even intended to offend or direct his comment at you. That does not make the whole forum full of losers with no life. Althou a number of people responded to your post, you obviously didn't see the answer you were looking for. It could have meant a number of things like maybe nobody knew the answer immediatly so rather than sound dumb and spout some BS, they remained quiet. Or I have noticed that since I began watching this forum a few days ago, it has several new posts a day. The conversation here goes so quickly it is easy for a question to get lost especially if there is a hot debate going on at the moment and the question happens to not be on the same topic of the debate. Or it could have been any number of reasons.

    So instead of huffing and puffing and calling everybody losers, take stock of the whole situation and let it blow by. If you haven't gotten an answer to your question, as the question again, or I have found that sometimes it helps to make a comment on the current debate going on, and then as a P.S. ask the question. Anyway, 'nuff said. Hope you decide to stay here at Edmunds. This is a great place to get good reliable info about your vehicle. I don't know if there is anywhere else on the web that is as comprehensive as Edmunds....
  • gbanker_33gbanker_33 Member Posts: 2
    Did this cost you anything? Because i have the same prob. :confuse:
  • bigtsrbigtsr Member Posts: 149
    If your are still within your warranty coverage TSBs are to performed
    free of charge.
    I had 18-031-07 done on mine over a yr ago and it made a noticeable
    difference.
    There is a procedure you can do yourself that may help and this is
    a proven method tested by many Caliber owners.
    1-Turn the ignition to RUN but DO NOT start.
    2-Depress the gas pedal to the floor SLOWLY while counting to 15.
    3-Release the gas SLOWLY again counting to 15.
    4-Turn ignition to OFF and remove key.
    5-Restart and take a test drive.
    This procedure recalibrates the linarity of the fly by wire accelerator.
    You can do this as often as you feel needed.
  • caliberchiccaliberchic Member Posts: 402
    That is very helpful and would make a great guide if you have time to post it! Find the link to Guides at the top of the page! :)
  • gbanker_33gbanker_33 Member Posts: 2
    Thank Man I'll give it a try.
  • mike299mike299 Member Posts: 4
    Hi this is my first posting,
    Has anyone ever had this happen. My front coil spring isolator came apart on me while driving down the highway and after that happened my steering would make an awful grinding noise. I have had it repaired under warranty but just thought it odd that that would happen. I drive an 08 caliber s/e .
  • bigtsrbigtsr Member Posts: 149
    Sorry to hear of your suspension problem.
    I have frequented a number of Caliber forums for over
    2 yrs now and this is the 2nd post (doesn't mean there
    aren't others) I have seen about that problem.
    The other post was a '07 Caliber mfg'd in early '06.
  • mike299mike299 Member Posts: 4
    I had an 07 caliber with the 2.0 litre with the cvt. I had an accident with it and wroite if off. I did end up buying an 08 se with the 1.8 5spd . I am much happier with my 08 with the standard trans. The gas milage is so much better than with the cvt. And with the standard trans the 1.8 seems just as peppy or peppier in some cases. I have seen know differences except the amber turn signals are gone on the back and the interior in the 08 is a darker colour .
  • thecarbuffthecarbuff Member Posts: 7
    This is a great car,it has great gas milage and great looks but it isnt a wagon, thats saying the 4dr VW Golf is a wagon, there compacts have you seen a wagon, like take one of my favorite wagons for example, the Magnum, its a lot longer and alot more spacious
  • moparfancanadamoparfancanada Member Posts: 18
    Has anyone else had this problem, and if so, does anyone know of a successful resolution?

    2007 Caliber, R/T model, auto. transmission. 30,500 kms as of today.

    In Oct 2007, I could not get it out of park no matter how much pressure I put on the brakes. I had to pop open the small access hole on the right of the tranny box and was able to manually get it out of park. Drove straight to the dealer and they replaced a relay switch that was defective. Ok fine!

    July 2008, same thing. Drove to the dealer and left it there. They replaced this switch again, but said I had no brake lights. Later that day, surprise!, I had brake light. So I picked up the car - all is well.

    Today, Aug 25th, same thing. Manually popped it out of park and straight to the dealer. This time I told him that there is no point in replacing a faulty part, with another faulty part ! Makes sense don't it? Service manager and mechanic mulled over my car, himmed and hawed a bit, then told me that they suspect it is a cellunoid switch in the shifter. Of course they don't have the part and it will be ordered in from Montreal and arrive early am.

    Long story short ..... Any one else have this exact issue and have had a successful conclusion to the problem?

    Thanks all.
    Roger in Ottawa.
  • bigtsrbigtsr Member Posts: 149
    A poster on another forum had a similar recurring problem and they finally
    chased it down to the wiring on the switch that actuates the park lock
    solenoid-it was rubbing and had frayed.
  • 77mac7777mac77 Member Posts: 13
    I guess you gotta type these things QUICK. Been cut-off TWICE: My GERMAN's
    horrible, so don't understand WHY:::> Anyway, got 19,000 miles on the car, now,
    routinely driven at speeds between 80 and 125MPH. Interestingly enough, didn't
    IMAGINE you could actually put the CRUISE-CONTROL on at over 100MPH-- but
    you can. By the way, in Germany, in most places, there ISN'T a speed-limit, but
    if you CAN'T maintain at least 85MPH, it's just SAFER to stay on the backroads.
    I was passed one day by a collector's old VW-Beetle German Police Car (which,
    originally, really DID have a Porche engine). It's NEAT to actually be able to speed
    on down the road-- to and from work-- and TRY and keep up with a LOTUS. I've had
    no problems with my car, other than having the ABS replaced. I had the snow-tires--
    and the crappy rims put on the car till the spring thaw-- and my Chrome-clad
    ones can resurface. Absolutely no problems-- well-- I guess I'll be honest and say
    at MY height, I've replaced MOST of the wiperblades some a couple inches longer--
    so I can see out the windows... and I keep the rearseats DOWN all the time... for
    the SAME reason.
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    An advertising agency would like to speak with satisfied Dodge Caliber drivers. If you own or regularly drive one of these vehicles, please respond to jwahl@edmunds.com with your daytime contact information no later than Friday, October 31st.
  • mprobelskimprobelski Member Posts: 1
    Hey this is my first post, I bought an '08 caliber SE Plus for $15,320, with 17'' aluminum wheels. I have had no major problems. However we just had a big snowfall, the car DOES drive amazing in the snow, plows right through drifts, but the day after my car started shaking extremely bad, I called the dealership and they said they just had a caliber in that morning with the same problem. They said that it was hardened, impacted snow inside the wheels, that unbalanced the car. The fix? Spray water in the wheels to melt the snow. That DID work. But what I want to know is, does anyone else think this is ridiculous? And if anyone has the same problem, is there an easy fix?
  • mike299mike299 Member Posts: 4
    I was just wondering if anyone else has installed the Mopar performance cat back exhaust on there Caliber. I had it installed on my car two weeks ago and love it.
    The sound is very throaty and gives the car a bit more power. And I think my milage is better as well.
  • 77mac7777mac77 Member Posts: 13
    They've got these 7-foot-tall orange and black poles along the sides of the back-roads, here, so the snowplows-- and me, I guess-- drive ON the road. My 2008 AWD Caliber drives G-R-E-A-T. Being the life of the party-- and prefering CATS over DOGS-- my curiousity got to me seeing your post. I figured I got All Wheel Drive, right(?), so I drove through a snowbank-- like YOU said. The car was a bit irratic; not undrivable, but reminded me of what happens if you drive a car over 55-MPH
    after you used the stuff in a spraycan called FIX-A-FLAT. The car shook slightly.
    After reading your post, I figured I'd go get a car wash at one of the places, here in
    Germany, that also washes the undercarriage. Thanks! Works fine again. I'll make
    sure to NEVER drive my car off-road through a snowbank again... dumb idea: unless you own a carwash!
    " Big Mac "
    GERMANY
  • Travelin_NeilTravelin_Neil Member Posts: 1
    The 15" tires will work fine on a Dodge Caliber. However I don't think Dodge has them with tire pressure sensors, so your tire pressure readout will be blank and your low pressure light will stay on.

    I know this from experience, because when I took delivery of my Caliber, I discovered that the dealer swapped out the alloy wheels with 15" steel wheels! I drove around with no problems (other than the low pressure light on and no pressure readout) for about 2 weeks while I waited for the dealer to order the new wheels.
  • mek0123mek0123 Member Posts: 33
    I live in Michigan and that is a common problem when driving in deep snow. The snow gets caught in the wheels and gets lodged there. I have two minivans with FWD and it happens as well as a Chevy Blazer and Honda Accord. It happens with any vehicle when driving through harder packed snow.
  • aladdinsanealaddinsane Member Posts: 182
    Has anyone checked out the new 2010 interior available in the 2010 Caliber?
    Any thoughts? :confuse:
    There seems to be little life in this particular forum.
    What's up with that?
    Peace!<-AladdinSane<- :shades: -
  • micwebmicweb Member Posts: 1,617
    Some early buyers had problems with their Calibers (I had a couple) and Chrysler was being so tight with their warranty money that the dealers wouldn't fix stuff unless your car just plain wouldn't run - that was my experience at least. They'd just stall. That took the wind out of the sails of the early fan base like CaliberChic etc. Then Chrysler went bankrupt.

    The Caliber is actually a great design. If it were made and backed by Toyota, I'd buy another in an instant. There's nothing out there with equivalent sizing, you can actually carry people in the back seat and still get good acceleration and gas mileage.

    Given that I ran my Caliber up to 25,000 miles before trading it in, vs. 6,000 miles on most of my other short ownership cars, it had to have something appealing about it. :) But Dodge blew the marketing momentum by not taking care of their early adopters.
    I'm glad to see Chrysler is refreshing the interior.

    BTW Caliber was one of the top sellers during C4C.
  • aladdinsanealaddinsane Member Posts: 182
    micweb...
    What you say only confirms how leery I am with purchasing a 2010 Caliber...Why? It's not the vehicle itself...I'm pretty sure the Caliber is NOT a bad machine to own and with the interior improvements implemented by Chrysler for the new model year that may help the Caliber gain attention to itself in a positive way, finally. The problem? Chysler itself. With all the rhubarb this automaker's been going through I'm not sure I'd be willing to go with a manufacturer that treats its customers so poorly in the event of a warranty situation, or whatever. See? The lifetime powertain warranty they had is now kaput. I feel the company is now in freefall, so to speak.

    Bottom line: the Caliber may be on it's road to recovery, but the company behind it is a mess...I'm still doubtful, but I DO agree the machine is worth it, no matter how many put it down for being junk.

    :cry:

    Peace!<-AladdinSane<- :shades: -
  • bigtsrbigtsr Member Posts: 149
    My SXT is now over 3 yrs old and other then my free oil/filter changes
    and a software update in '06 the only other reason it's been in the
    dealership was for new tierod ends.I believe the tierod ends are due
    to our crappy roads and my penchant for formula 1 driving on expressway
    ramps.
    Having said that my dealership (independant) always treats me well
    while not like a long lost son.I have dealt with them since '84 with new cars every
    3-4 yrs and while having differences of opinion we treat each other with
    respect and what my grandaughters call inside voices.lol
    I think Chrysler is plagued with incompetent/poor dealerships thru out
    the system,if your not happy with one try another it may be worth
    the extra miles to be hassle free.
    Over the years I have had many parts/adjustments done all hassle free
    that's why I keep buying cars from the same dealer and all my cars
    up to the time I retired in 2000 were used for business at abt 40-50000
    kilometrs per year.
This discussion has been closed.

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