Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Since my setup will be using a 305 V8 with vacuum advance and TH350 with vacuum modulator, are there things I will want to disconnect with the ECM? Not sure how much it controlled on '85 models.
Also, I do not believe that my block should be any different than a newer one, so the motor mounts and the accessory brackets should be the same. Please let me know if you know differently.
I plan to use the alternator on the '76 engine, and I was also going to use the power steering pump from that car also, and reconnect the hoses to the '85 steering gearbox. Do you agree with this?
If I install headers, should I install them before putting the 305 into the '85 car?
The blocks might be the "same" but I'm sure not all accessories go in the same holes...if you are lucky you'll find the right holes, but GM was always switching alternators from the left side to the right, or pumps this way and that.
I'd use only the '85 steering components complete unless you are going to swap in the '76 complete post and box. You can get into very weird stuff by using a box from one car and a ram and steering arms from another....they aren't engineered to work together.
The way you are doing things is kind of backwards I think...swapping an ancient technology into a more modern car...most folks these days are doing the opposite, which is a lot easier in some ways....it's easier to upgrade on old car than to downgrade a modern one.
does that make sense? Hope so.
it's not good to find yourself without options. When it comes to engine swaps, information is the best tool in your toolbox. You can save hours...no DAYS...of knuckle-busting work by planning your method of attack.
thanks
Also, I need to try to find the wiring diagram for the '85 V6 car, so that I can label the wires as I disconnect them. Any ideas of a source for this?
Shiftright the Host
A person can put just about any engine into any car with enough time and money but I sincerely doubt this is your plan, and I also doubt that we are talking about a "bolt in" kind of deal.
Maybe you need to do a 2-step investigation here...one, can you even put the Mitsu V-6 in your car and how much trouble is that? (I assume you have a base 4 cylinder engine in your car) ....then you can maybe figure what Dodge has done to the Avenger set up to change it from the normal Mitsubishi V-6 installation.
Also, not to be discouraging I hope, your car isn't worth a lot of money so anything you spend on the car will not be recovered when you sell it.
Thanks for any help you can give me.
thanx.
Turbo the KA24DE. You'll need to find someplace with a good reputation to do this, since the engine will need internal work and tuning.
Swap in an SR20DET from a U13 Bluebird SSS (Japanese Altima). You'll want the whole front clip to get the radiator, motor mounts, and other parts; and you'll need the tranny from an SE-R or G20 since the Bluebird AWD tranny won't fit in the Altima.
Swap in an SR20VE. You'd still need the Bluebird clip for parts, but you might be able to get a clip less motor and tranny. Add the VVL motor and SE-R or G20 tranny.
Altima swaps are fairly uncommon since most Nissan performance of that vintage goes toward the 240SX (rear wheel drive), Sentra (lighter and smaller), or G20 (already has an SR20).
Mrshiftright
Co-Host
Don
Medford NJ
http://www.electrodyne.cc/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=ED&Product_Code=93- 545
(I'm NOT recommending it because I never tried it!). It's a boost controller...and you'll want a better diverter valve for your stock turbo (or you'll dump boost too quickly) and a turbo timer to keep oil circulating in the turbo after you have shut down your engine. Figure $500 bucks or so plus installation costs if you aren't doing it yourself, and for that you get (claimed) 43 wheel horsepower!
However, you should know that running a stock engine at higher boost than designed will shorten its life, depending on your discipline. You don't get something for nothing.
Ory
Steve, Host
Be careful of the engine you buy. While you should consider its condition, try to buy a '92 to '95 model. I've been told there was a cylinder head design change in '92, making it more powerful than the '91 model. You can put an older engine in if you want to, but I wouldn't. Also, you can put a newer than '95 model year engine in. However a '96 on up will be an OBD-II engine, and while it can be plugged into an OBD-I computer(that's what you have), the fuel system will have to be replaced. OBD-I systems use a fuel pressure regulator mounted on the fuel rail, with an attached return line, and operate around 40 psi. OBD-II systems utilize a tank mounted pressure regulator, therefore no return line, and they operate at around 50 psi. Your current fuel pump may, or may not, be capable of running 50 psi for an extended time. Also, if you buy an OBD-II engine you'll probably want to run the OBD-II computer with it. It is very possible to integrate its wiring into your current harness, and I've read a few articles where it has been done, I started to do it as well. However, after diving into it, I've decided to go with an OBD-I setup.
Thanks,
Paul
I had troubles with my computer. ( one of 1992 )
Now I've got a correct computer from 1994 ( from a Wrangler ) with AX15 support.
I have placed a wiring harnes from a 1994 Wrangler and it's patrol tank.
Now my next move is to get the fuel pressure regulator working.
Everything else seems to be oke.
It's a good move to implement a Cherokee 4.0 HO engine.
regards,
Can you give us more information about the engine?
I'd be happy to reply with progress on what I encounter so other might learn from it as well.
PLEASE HELP ANY ADVICE GREATLY APPRECIATED.