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for each vehicle there is a tradeoff point where it makes sense to turn off the engine - for a certain duration of parking. i understand that for gassers that tradeoff point is less than one minute of parking. for diesel 4x4s perhaps the tradeoff point is a bit longer - a couple minutes maybe?
I am now considering a different module-truck now has 62,000 miles, mileage is 19.2 overall, but that isnt good enough
dwd
Have you checked the accuracy of your odometer? You can use marked off highway segments or use Google or Yahoo map distances and compare. Does your speedometer agree with the unmanned radar installations, "Your vehicle speed is ____."?
I have heard people disparage the accuracy of vehicle computers. The only vehicle I have checked is a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Ltd. with 4L I-6 gas engine belonging to a relative. On a trip I found that my calculation from odo and fuel added at the pump agreed extremely closely with the computer average.
dwd, you're probably not going to get much better mileage than you have achieved. My 05 Cummins is consistently 10-15% worse than my 96 Cummins was. Plus, those 315s have raised your unsprung weight and rolling resistance substantially and you're using extra horses to get that rubber moving.
With my 05 (3500 Quad 4x4 dually), the only way I can clear 20 mpg is at a steady 52 mph.
kcram - Pickups Host
dwd
They both have about 12000 miles on them and are in great shape, the 04 is $29800, the 05 is $31700.
I like the color of the 05 ( more warranty left on it)but I have heard that the early 04s have the older engine and gets better fuel mileage. I've heard the 05s only get about 14-16 empty, and 12-14 loaded(depending on what you are towing of course). I've also heard the 02-early 04 engine will get 20+ empty and 16mpg towing.
Is this true???
Can you add the locking lugs and Quadzilla chip to the 05 and get the fuel mileage compareable to the early 04??
Thanks for any help, I've never owned a diesel and need some help.
Any issues I should be aware of with either engine??
They both have about 12000 miles on them and are in great shape, the 04 is $29800, the 05 is $31700.
I like the color of the 05 ( more warranty left on it)but I have heard that the early 04s have the older engine and gets better fuel mileage. I've heard the 05s only get about 14-16 empty, and 12-14 loaded(depending on what you are towing of course). I've also heard the 02-early 04 engine will get 20+ empty and 16mpg towing.
Is this true???
Can you add the locking lugs and Quadzilla chip to the 05 and get the fuel mileage compareable to the early 04??
Thanks for any help, I've never owned a diesel and need some help.
Any issues I should be aware of with either engine??
Therefore your true mpg values would be 1.087 times what you have reported. So, e.g. 19.0 mpg from an uncorrected odo reading would actually be 20.7 mpg.
And if your speedomoter read 70 mph you were actually going 76 mph. The power required to overcome air resistance rises strongly with increasing speed (NASA) so the engine was having to put out more power at the wheels which would act to decrease true mpg. It is true that these larger tires will decrease engine rpms by 8.7% at the same true speed and this could improve fuel economy especially on level ground, lightly loaded, but it almost certainly would not balance out the increased air resistance, and it would definitely hurt hill climbing performance and pulling force in any gear. Also these wide off-road tires are going to have large rolling resistance compared to tires designed for pavement.
If you are really interested in getting maximum mpg then think about the tires you replace these with, but don't go overboard on getting low rolling resistance tires that don't have good traction, especially on wet roads. It does rain in the Texas Hill Country occassionally, doesn't it? You don't want to slide off the road into a gulley some rainy night when a deer jumps out in front of you. Wouldn't be good for your truck, for you, and maybe wouldn't even save the deer.
Calculations:
Dia 315/70-17 = (315mm)(1in/25.4mm)(0.7)(2) + 17in = 34.36in
Dia 265/70-17 = (265)(1/25.4)((0.7)(2) +17 = 31.61 in
34.36/31.61 = 1.087.
I live and work on a ranch in the hillcountry, it's prety rocky and rough. The tires are great around the ranch but I don't think the reduced mileage is worth it. When I replace the tires I will change tire size not the type of tire. I have to have an off road tire for the ranch and getting to it, I live about 12 miles down a gravel road. By the way, rain would be wonderful we are in the 2nd year of a drought and my ranch and cows don't think it's funny anymore.
As far as the deer go, if I were a deer i wouldn't count on me swerving. I've lost a few friends that way and my ranch hand bumper would not be kind to bambi.
Thanks,
dwd
I have a 06 SB F350 4WD 6.0 Diesel that will barely get better than 12 mpg. I have a friend with the same truck and the same issue. I had an 02 LB F350 4W PS Diesel that consistently got 16- 18 mpg. Both are/were chipped up and have/had tons of hp. I just think I should get a lot more mpg with this new truck.
I've heard the 20mpg stories too, but I'm not even close!!!
There are two good reasons why you idle any turbocharged engine for several minutes after running down the road.
Turbochargers spin at incredibly fast speeds of 70K to 100K or even faster. Idling lets the turbocharger spin down and also allows oil to run over the bearing any cool it. Remember that exhaust heat is transferred via the blades/fan to the shaft and bearing(s). In most cases the bearing is oil cooled while in other instances, it is both oil and water cooled.
One trick to avoid coking the bearing in the turbocharger is to use a synthetic oil. There are plenty of good ones out there that are readily available. It is difficult if not almost impossible to coke a good quality synthetic motor oil. Do not start using a synthetic oil in your diesel until about 8K to 10K miles. At that point the engine should be broken in. Using a synthetic before that time could prevent the rings from setting up properly.
Nevertheless I would definitely use full synthetic oil in any turbocharged vehicle and I would let it idle for a short time (about 1 to 2 min) before shutdown after operation at high power. I do this even with naturally aspirated (i.e. non-turbocharged) gasoline engines, say when pulling into a rest stop on the interstate. I have always heard this allows the valves to cool. I even do this with my Honda aircooled engine lawnmower in which I use Mobile1 10W-30.
Note also that a few years back Toyota redesigned the heads on some of its premium engines to increase HP and fuel economy, with the undesired result that oil temperature in the redesigned heads increased significantly. There were a large number of engine failures due to overheating of the oil in the head leading to "sludging". Toyota did not require full synthetic oil, and I'm under the impression that all the failures occurred with conventional oil.
In about 1998 I switched to Mobile1 in my wife's 1996 Volvo 850 wagon non-turbo, which unfortunately was totalled in 2004 in a rollover. She replaced it with 2004 Volvo V70 non-turbo. After break-in of 4000 miles of short trips, I had the original oil fill changed to Mobile1 10W-30, and have used that since. I have the oil and filter changed at the recommended 7500 mi intervals (no charge from Volvo dealer for first 3 or 4 years or 60kmi or 80kmi), but I must supply the 6 qts of Mobile1. Castrol syntec would be free from the dealer and would probably work perfectly, but I pay the extra $40 for the Mobile1. When the power train warranty is over, I intend to go to 10,000 or even 15,000 mi interval or 1 year with Mobile1 10W-30 extended service oil.
The problem with the Toyota sludging situation was not only a head design issue but also the way blowby gases were circulated through the engine. As I have read, Toyota redesigned the way the blowby gases were circulated.
I see you and I agree on the use of synthetic lubricants. I do not use Mobil 1 for a couple of reasons. One of them is political and personnel. The other reason is that their oils generally do poorly on the Noack vaporization tests and end up with double digit losses during the tests. I prefer Amsoil products or RedLine products. Yes, they are more money but they are also better oils with low single digit vaporization losses. Their oils for diesel engines are outstanding and with as much blowby as a diesel produces, the CCV system on my Jeep Liberty CRD is actually quite clean.
Try it again with the tailgate up and see if you detect any difference.
kcram - Pickups Host
As to Mobil 1 Extended, I frankly cannot say if it is equal to Amsoil or RedLine. Amsoil has substantial proof that their oil will go 25K miles and even more with testing.
I am hoping I get 22-24MPG in my 06 CTD 2500 QC 4x4 SWB when I pick it up this week.
I have read the old posts and heard good and bad about the Quadzilla XZT2 and the Super Chip 3805? Should I get one of these or another brand?
I plan on doing very little towing, so I am looking for higher MPG settings. Currently drive 50/50 highway city.
THX
How can i incresse my MPG ? Don't want to void the warranty. Help......
How can i incresse my MPG ? Don't want to void the warranty. Help......
i hope you did not believe the dashboard mpg meter during your test drive. those are often "way off".
anyway, your new truck is probably not broken in yet. mpg should improve gradually over 10k or 20k miles! also i wonder if your truck has offroad-ish tires. maybe some more street-ish tires would help. also what is your tire pressure. for cars i recommend 35 psi, but i'm not a truck guy so i don't know if that would apply to a "real" truck. also if you back it down to 65 mph i bet you will see a substantial mpg improvement. catch you later, i'm 10-8, 10-10 !
THE QUESTION, I have to make use with what I have. Are there any tuners out there that provide the following.
1. Returns to the factory computer setting without letting ford know that the truck has been re programmed.
2. Has a setting for towing that monitors and de fuels the engine before E GT's become excessive? I don't want to damage the engine.
3. A setting or combination of settings for better fuel ecomony?
I don't want to damage the engine and most importantly I don't want the factory know if the computer has been reset.
LAST, Does ford make a closer ratio transmission that matches the torque curve of the engine? High rear end ratios do not correct this problem.
Anyway, looking for some real help
PLATE
I too would like to find a chip where the warranty isn't violated.
Good luck Plate
When I returned from Alaska and had converter problems I had the whole thing removed from the Ford before I took it to them for warranty work on the tranny... Then I fixed the Ford for good.... I bought a Chevy..
In my 40 years or so of driving I only saw my vehicles up on rollbacks twice ... both times it was the Ford Diesel... HD can't stand for Heavy Duty.. Perhaps Hardly Durable would be more like it. I had the tranny replaced at 72500 and then again under warranty at 105000 or so. HD for sure. Of course Ford wouldn't do a thing when it went out at 72K miles.
Before you spend money on a tuner, go to a good diesel shop and see what they can do. There may be a simple and inexpensive solution to your problem that does not require a chip.
The refiners realized that removing the sulfur reduced the lubricity of the fuel somewhat so they added materials to take care of that problem or some fuel resellers blend between two and five percent biodiesel into the dino diesel to replace the lubricity that way.
As to the engine in my CRD, it was not designed by Daimler and in fact at the time the smaller sibling of this engine was being made, Detroit Diesel owned the majority of the company, namely V.M. Motori. Chrysler in Europe has been using V.M. Motori diesels for at less fifteen years that I know about and probably longer. V.M. Motori was founded by two brothers in 1947 and that is all they do, as far as I know. They make very rugged diesel engines. Daimler is now the sole owner of the company since late last year.
The engine in my CRD ran on the S500 (LSD) swill until October of last year. I have been using S15 (ULSD) since then with no ill effects of any kind except for less noise and now almost no smoke under load.