Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Diesel Fuel Economy and chips

1246789

Comments

  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    Bill, i see lots of gasser drivers doing this too. i think it's absurd and that indicates fuel prices are not high enough. diesel drivers have a better justification for doing it in very cold weather however due to difficulty in very-cold-starts. but i see them doing it in warm weather too. mostly i think it's diesel-drivers who want to pretend they are driving big-rigs! i see VW TDI drivers doing it too!
    for each vehicle there is a tradeoff point where it makes sense to turn off the engine - for a certain duration of parking. i understand that for gassers that tradeoff point is less than one minute of parking. for diesel 4x4s perhaps the tradeoff point is a bit longer - a couple minutes maybe?
  • zrtpilotzrtpilot Member Posts: 1
    I can't help you with the wireing issue, but with my 01 dmax i averaged 12-14 city 16-17 hiway befor tunner. I have a Bullydog Triple Dog Tunner. Mileage went up 4.8 mpg Towing or empty.I was hauling 12k travel trailers for FEMA last October. Did 10k in 2 weeks. Two trips without chip 8.9 at 75 empty coming home 15.1 at 80. 4 runs with tunner 13.9 at 75, 19.9 at 80 on a truck with 135k on it. I have 8k on my new 06 and just loaded the 06 updates. Already picked up 2.5 on only 1/2 tank of fuel. It sounds like something wrong with your programmer. Best thing about the Triple Dog is once you buy it it will work on any dodge,ford or dmax.Just get on their web site and download their updates for the different truck. Hope this helps.
  • dfh10dfh10 Member Posts: 1
    Please reply with what kind of chip you have and any other info you feel would be helpfull.. I have a 2006 RAM 2500 with cummins turbo diesel. I get 14-14.5 city and pulling a boat 18-19 on the highway at 65mph.. Thanks Dave dfh10@sbcglobal.net
  • taxspeakertaxspeaker Member Posts: 2
    We were using the Edge chip. Over the winter all of a sudden it caused the engine to act like I had a bad tank of fuel-decreasing power, cutting out, finally stopped running. I removed the chip, had the dealer reset the air flow to standard and have not had another problem, nor have I re-installed the chip.

    I am now considering a different module-truck now has 62,000 miles, mileage is 19.2 overall, but that isnt good enough
  • jim314jim314 Member Posts: 491
    If one changes to lager diameter tires and does not recalibrate the speedometer/odometer then the vehicle is actually travelling faster and farther than the gauges indicate. So the true mpg would be greater than what the uncorrected odometer would give.
  • dwddwd Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2006, quad cab 4x4 3500 Cummins diesel, with 315 off-road tire. I have been getting poor fuel economy from day one, 12.5-14.5. Most of my driving is highway driving in the Texas hillcountry. I started using a superchip flashpag re-programmer after about 6,000 miles. Once I started using the re-programmer I started checking the actual mileage, from gallons to fill up/miles on odometer, vs the mileage the onboard overhead computer is telling me i am getting. I found that the mileage the computer was telling me was vastly different from what i actually measured. Using the superchip "Performance" program the computer would tell me I was getting 22-24mpg on the highway and 20-21 average around the ranch, highway. I was actually getting 15-16 average. The superchip programmer lets you adjust for the larger tire size so assuming this works the speedometer and odometer should be adjusted for the larger tire size. I recently went on a long highway trip from central Texas to Colorado Springs. I checked the mileage at every stop and was consciously keeping my speed under 70 in an effort to maximize my fuel economy. I had the computer set to the Superchip performance program. Same results, the onboard computer said I was getting 22 mpg but the measured mpg was never better than 16, usually 15 or so. I have recently set the truck back to the stock program. The computer tells me I am getting 15 mpg or so but I am actually getting 12.5 mph or so. I don't have a lot of confidence that the dealer will be motivated to find the cause of my poor fuel economy. Any help, insight or suggestions will be appreciated.
    dwd
  • jim314jim314 Member Posts: 491
    Exactly what is the mfgr and model of this truck? What EPA est mileage city/hwy was on the window sticker? Did the 315 tire come stock? What is the full spec on the 315 tire and the stock tire if different? For example 315/75-18. An off road tire is almost certainly going to have higher rolling resistance than a tire optimized for pavement. The stated EPA estimates may be with a tire with much lower rolling resistance.

    Have you checked the accuracy of your odometer? You can use marked off highway segments or use Google or Yahoo map distances and compare. Does your speedometer agree with the unmanned radar installations, "Your vehicle speed is ____."?

    I have heard people disparage the accuracy of vehicle computers. The only vehicle I have checked is a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Ltd. with 4L I-6 gas engine belonging to a relative. On a trip I found that my calculation from odo and fuel added at the pump agreed extremely closely with the computer average.
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    dwd has a Dodge Ram - only brand that offers the Cummins diesel. No truck with a GVWR over 8500 pounds is rated by the EPA.

    dwd, you're probably not going to get much better mileage than you have achieved. My 05 Cummins is consistently 10-15% worse than my 96 Cummins was. Plus, those 315s have raised your unsprung weight and rolling resistance substantially and you're using extra horses to get that rubber moving.

    With my 05 (3500 Quad 4x4 dually), the only way I can clear 20 mpg is at a steady 52 mph.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • dwddwd Member Posts: 4
    The truck is a 2006 Dodge 3500 Quad Cab 4x4. I don't believe that they put EPA est mileage on super duty trucks. The tires are BF Goodrich 315/70/17 all terrain tires, they were not stock. the stock tires were 265/70/17. I have checked the odometer with roadside mile markers, it appears to right on. Same with the speedometer. I figured the tires would drop my fuel economy some but I didn't think I would go from the expected 19mpg to 13. Still can't figure out the computer thing, it is way off.
  • dwddwd Member Posts: 4
    Thanks. The tires may have to go. I know a lot of folks in this part of the world with Dodge Cummins diesels, they all get around 19mpg. I have even heard that the 06's get better mileage, can't prove it by me.
    dwd
  • snowmanxsnowmanx Member Posts: 3
    I've narrowed it down to a early 04 2500 4x4 QC short box or a 05 2500 4x4 QC short box, both are pretty much identicle with options, both are SLT, tow, single cd, power every thing etc.

    They both have about 12000 miles on them and are in great shape, the 04 is $29800, the 05 is $31700.

    I like the color of the 05 ( more warranty left on it)but I have heard that the early 04s have the older engine and gets better fuel mileage. I've heard the 05s only get about 14-16 empty, and 12-14 loaded(depending on what you are towing of course). I've also heard the 02-early 04 engine will get 20+ empty and 16mpg towing.

    Is this true???

    Can you add the locking lugs and Quadzilla chip to the 05 and get the fuel mileage compareable to the early 04??

    Thanks for any help, I've never owned a diesel and need some help.

    Any issues I should be aware of with either engine??
  • snowmanxsnowmanx Member Posts: 3
    One last question...which one do you think is the better buy???
  • snowmanxsnowmanx Member Posts: 3
    I've narrowed it down to a early 04 2500 4x4 QC short box or a 05 2500 4x4 QC short box, both are pretty much identicle with options, both are SLT, tow, single cd, power every thing etc.

    They both have about 12000 miles on them and are in great shape, the 04 is $29800, the 05 is $31700.

    I like the color of the 05 ( more warranty left on it)but I have heard that the early 04s have the older engine and gets better fuel mileage. I've heard the 05s only get about 14-16 empty, and 12-14 loaded(depending on what you are towing of course). I've also heard the 02-early 04 engine will get 20+ empty and 16mpg towing.

    Is this true???

    Can you add the locking lugs and Quadzilla chip to the 05 and get the fuel mileage compareable to the early 04??

    Thanks for any help, I've never owned a diesel and need some help.

    Any issues I should be aware of with either engine??
  • jim314jim314 Member Posts: 491
    The 315s are 8.7% larger in diamater and in circumference than than the stock tires. So unless you reprogrammed your odometer and speedometer and computer, then you are travelling 8.7% farther and 8.7% faster than your odo and speedo indicate.

    Therefore your true mpg values would be 1.087 times what you have reported. So, e.g. 19.0 mpg from an uncorrected odo reading would actually be 20.7 mpg.

    And if your speedomoter read 70 mph you were actually going 76 mph. The power required to overcome air resistance rises strongly with increasing speed (NASA) so the engine was having to put out more power at the wheels which would act to decrease true mpg. It is true that these larger tires will decrease engine rpms by 8.7% at the same true speed and this could improve fuel economy especially on level ground, lightly loaded, but it almost certainly would not balance out the increased air resistance, and it would definitely hurt hill climbing performance and pulling force in any gear. Also these wide off-road tires are going to have large rolling resistance compared to tires designed for pavement.

    If you are really interested in getting maximum mpg then think about the tires you replace these with, but don't go overboard on getting low rolling resistance tires that don't have good traction, especially on wet roads. It does rain in the Texas Hill Country occassionally, doesn't it? You don't want to slide off the road into a gulley some rainy night when a deer jumps out in front of you. Wouldn't be good for your truck, for you, and maybe wouldn't even save the deer.

    Calculations:
    Dia 315/70-17 = (315mm)(1in/25.4mm)(0.7)(2) + 17in = 34.36in
    Dia 265/70-17 = (265)(1/25.4)((0.7)(2) +17 = 31.61 in

    34.36/31.61 = 1.087.
  • dwddwd Member Posts: 4
    Your pretty close with your calculation of 1.087. I recently went on a 300 mile cruise down the interstate. I returned the truck to it's stock program and measured my odometer reading with the mile markers on the side of the road. After the trip I calculated that to get the correct odometer reading, speedometer etc. I need to multiply by 1.076, exciting stuff.
    I live and work on a ranch in the hillcountry, it's prety rocky and rough. The tires are great around the ranch but I don't think the reduced mileage is worth it. When I replace the tires I will change tire size not the type of tire. I have to have an off road tire for the ranch and getting to it, I live about 12 miles down a gravel road. By the way, rain would be wonderful we are in the 2nd year of a drought and my ranch and cows don't think it's funny anymore.
    As far as the deer go, if I were a deer i wouldn't count on me swerving. I've lost a few friends that way and my ranch hand bumper would not be kind to bambi.
    Thanks,
    dwd
  • dr_cdr_c Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know why the 06 PS Diesels are getting worse fuel mileage than any of the previous PS Diesels?

    I have a 06 SB F350 4WD 6.0 Diesel that will barely get better than 12 mpg. I have a friend with the same truck and the same issue. I had an 02 LB F350 4W PS Diesel that consistently got 16- 18 mpg. Both are/were chipped up and have/had tons of hp. I just think I should get a lot more mpg with this new truck.
  • banshee1banshee1 Member Posts: 12
    The reason we take longer to shut down isn't because it's a diesel, it's because we have a turbocharger that needs to have oil running over the bearings for a minute or so to keep them from "coking" or oil baking on the bearings and after that happens a few times, the turbo doesn't spin and your'e out a couple o' thousand bucks. But the guys who leave them running for 15 or 20 minutes plus is wasteful and puts your motor in the severe usage catagory.
  • banshee1banshee1 Member Posts: 12
    The answer is simple,Ford,Dodge,Chevy,take your pick. Or,Ford,toughest truck,weakest motor to date.Chevy,powerful motor,quiet interior,weak chassis.Dodge,nice truck,for some reason,everyone likes to put twin turbos and transmissions in them. If your'e not brand loyal,you should take everyone for a test drive and see which one you really like.I bought my 05' King Ranch F-350 without test driving it because I didn't need to. I'm a Ford guy.Just make sure you give your new truck the three STANDARD modifications;intake,exhaust,programmer.You will be happy and your truck will be happy.
  • bsouthbsouth Member Posts: 1
    I've got a 2006 3500 Mega Cab Dually, 4x4 and my mileage is very similar to yours... They told me it would start creeping up at 5000 miles (I have about 6500 on it now), but it's actually going down.. about 14 on the highway (70-75mph) and about 11 towing (approx 13,000lb horse trailer loaded, 70-75 mph)..

    I've heard the 20mpg stories too, but I'm not even close!!!
  • wgreen4wgreen4 Member Posts: 3
    I appreciate your response to my idling question but I was talking about the 15 - 20 minutes types. However, could you shed a bit more light on the comment about bearings needing oil for a few minutes. I just purchased a new DOdge and do not want to do anything that might cause problems. Plus, there is so much conflicitng info out there and you sound as if you know what you are talking about. Thanks a million.
  • dhvmddhvmd Member Posts: 1
    I'm a novice with heavy duty trucks. Will be putting on low miles (8-10k / year), pulling a 2 horse trailer occassionally. Want a reliable truck, like the idea of better fuel economy (is 20 mpg realistic?) What after market work is routinely needed (chip, intake etc,,) and how much do these usually run? I've driven mostly ford/chevy light duty in the past, but the RAM seems to be the users choice in heavy duty. Any help much appreciated
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Maybe I can help. I have a 2005 Jeep Liberty Limited CRD. Yes it has a diesel engine and it is turbocharged.

    There are two good reasons why you idle any turbocharged engine for several minutes after running down the road.

    Turbochargers spin at incredibly fast speeds of 70K to 100K or even faster. Idling lets the turbocharger spin down and also allows oil to run over the bearing any cool it. Remember that exhaust heat is transferred via the blades/fan to the shaft and bearing(s). In most cases the bearing is oil cooled while in other instances, it is both oil and water cooled.

    One trick to avoid coking the bearing in the turbocharger is to use a synthetic oil. There are plenty of good ones out there that are readily available. It is difficult if not almost impossible to coke a good quality synthetic motor oil. Do not start using a synthetic oil in your diesel until about 8K to 10K miles. At that point the engine should be broken in. Using a synthetic before that time could prevent the rings from setting up properly.
  • jim314jim314 Member Posts: 491
    I've seen in various authoritative sources that the exhaust temperatures in diesels are much lower than in gasoline engines (perhaps 200 deg F lower or even more). Therefore it would seem to me that the turbocharger bearings in diesels should be less likely to experience heat mediated oil breakdown than gasoline engines, although I cannot remember if I have seen this explicitly stated.

    Nevertheless I would definitely use full synthetic oil in any turbocharged vehicle and I would let it idle for a short time (about 1 to 2 min) before shutdown after operation at high power. I do this even with naturally aspirated (i.e. non-turbocharged) gasoline engines, say when pulling into a rest stop on the interstate. I have always heard this allows the valves to cool. I even do this with my Honda aircooled engine lawnmower in which I use Mobile1 10W-30.

    Note also that a few years back Toyota redesigned the heads on some of its premium engines to increase HP and fuel economy, with the undesired result that oil temperature in the redesigned heads increased significantly. There were a large number of engine failures due to overheating of the oil in the head leading to "sludging". Toyota did not require full synthetic oil, and I'm under the impression that all the failures occurred with conventional oil.

    In about 1998 I switched to Mobile1 in my wife's 1996 Volvo 850 wagon non-turbo, which unfortunately was totalled in 2004 in a rollover. She replaced it with 2004 Volvo V70 non-turbo. After break-in of 4000 miles of short trips, I had the original oil fill changed to Mobile1 10W-30, and have used that since. I have the oil and filter changed at the recommended 7500 mi intervals (no charge from Volvo dealer for first 3 or 4 years or 60kmi or 80kmi), but I must supply the 6 qts of Mobile1. Castrol syntec would be free from the dealer and would probably work perfectly, but I pay the extra $40 for the Mobile1. When the power train warranty is over, I intend to go to 10,000 or even 15,000 mi interval or 1 year with Mobile1 10W-30 extended service oil.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    With exhaust temperatures as high as they are, I feel that the few hundred degrees difference does not matter. Hot is hot and if you are not careful, you can coke the oil and destroy the bearing in the turbocharger.

    The problem with the Toyota sludging situation was not only a head design issue but also the way blowby gases were circulated through the engine. As I have read, Toyota redesigned the way the blowby gases were circulated.

    I see you and I agree on the use of synthetic lubricants. I do not use Mobil 1 for a couple of reasons. One of them is political and personnel. The other reason is that their oils generally do poorly on the Noack vaporization tests and end up with double digit losses during the tests. I prefer Amsoil products or RedLine products. Yes, they are more money but they are also better oils with low single digit vaporization losses. Their oils for diesel engines are outstanding and with as much blowby as a diesel produces, the CCV system on my Jeep Liberty CRD is actually quite clean.
  • pipfindrpipfindr Member Posts: 34
    I am fairly happy to let ya know my new 2006 6.0 ltr F350 crew 4x4 got 21 mpg on the hwy at 110km/ph (66mph) with the tailgate down and everything stock. I have 22,000 km (13,200miles) on the truck and travelled 3 hrs. However I must confess to a slight tailwind less than 10km(6 mph gusts). I love my new truck but what a dog off the line. Still used to gassers but will never go back.
  • jim314jim314 Member Posts: 491
    I saw a mythbusters episode that purported to bust the story that the fuel economy of a pickup truck was higher with the tailgate down. They tested this directly and then put the truck in a windtunnel with smoke visualization and showed that the airflow was over the tailgate in the up position.

    Try it again with the tailgate up and see if you detect any difference.
  • farmerdougfarmerdoug Member Posts: 2
    I am going to buy a new 06 Dodge Diesel pickup. I am interested if anyone can tell me the difference (if any) in the fuel economy between the Automatic Transmission and the 6 speed manual. All of the other Dodge pickups I have owned have been 5 or 6 speed. Thanks for the Help.
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    If the trucks are othjerwise identical, the automatic will give you better highway mileage, because its overdrive gear is substanitally taller - 0.69:1 for the automatic, 0.79:1 for the 6-speed manual. In town or fully loaded, they'll be pretty close.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • gordgord Member Posts: 5
    My 04 4wd Crewcab Ram Diesel with 4 spd automatic has shift points for 3rd at about 43 mph and to OD at 50 mph. With the 5 or 6 spd manual, you may be able to get into a higher gear sooner than 43 in town and maybe see better milage than I do having to spend much of the time in 2nd and 3rd. I would think that, depending how you drive (mostly city or highway), would make the difference as the other reply indicated.
  • pipfindrpipfindr Member Posts: 34
    I wont be making that trip again for a while but when i do i will leave it up. However i did have my tailgate up during a bit of a storm and when i got home my tailgate had two big dirt circles on the inside showing me where the wind and rain was ending up. My speeds were much lower due to weather which would be a cause of the settling. I like mythbusters and wished i would have seen that one. But I will try that again.
  • jim314jim314 Member Posts: 491
    Where do you get the results of Noack vaporization tests? Mobile1 is also available in an even higher "performance" oil labelled Mobile1 "extended" performance or extended life which the label claims is effective for 15,000 mi or 1 year. The price is ~$6.30/qt. Do you think this is the equal of the Amsoil product?
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Amsoil, RedLine, and some others publish this test result on their websites.

    As to Mobil 1 Extended, I frankly cannot say if it is equal to Amsoil or RedLine. Amsoil has substantial proof that their oil will go 25K miles and even more with testing.
  • pipfindrpipfindr Member Posts: 34
    Well I did that trip almost the same as before, tailgate up, and got just over 20 mpg. 1mpg less than before. the conditions were close ie. weather, truck load and passengers (4). I would really like to try it completely empty, no people or cargo. Around the average I am getting is 14-15mpg. but the idle is way up because of the cold here(-20 to -30) i do not shut the truck off and I carry a few hundred pounds of cargo and a passenger. Not bad for a 1 ton. Still no problems with her. :)
  • sirradiodudesirradiodude Member Posts: 10
    I have a friend here in Houston that gets 33MPG highway out of his 04 CTD 2500 QC 4x2 LB 6-spd with no load. I dont know if its a 04 or 04.5... I know he has a chip but dont know which.

    I am hoping I get 22-24MPG in my 06 CTD 2500 QC 4x4 SWB when I pick it up this week.
  • sirradiodudesirradiodude Member Posts: 10
    Getting 06 CTD 2500 QC 4x4 SWB this week and want a chip... so which one?

    I have read the old posts and heard good and bad about the Quadzilla XZT2 and the Super Chip 3805? Should I get one of these or another brand?

    I plan on doing very little towing, so I am looking for higher MPG settings. Currently drive 50/50 highway city.

    THX
  • jaubuchonjaubuchon Member Posts: 3
    Hey their I am also looking for a chip!! I have a 2003 Dodge 3500 dually quad cab LWB. just purchase w 113k miles in great shape. I'm getting 19 to 20 miles per gal around town. took my first trip monday loaded w/16' bumper pull trailer & 5000lb tractor got around 16.5 per gal @ 70 miles per hr., I have heard of some guys getting more 20 pulling and 24 unloaded?? I want that chip anybody know???
  • go4damaxgo4damax Member Posts: 3
    Help me Please........ :) I test drove a F350 FX Crew Long bed and averaged 19.5 MPG @ 70 to 75mph on the highway. I decided I really only needed the F250. So I just got my 07 6.0 F250 FX Crew Long bed extended warranty and all. :) My first run was to Atlanta from Miami. I got 13.5 to 14 MPG @ 70mph nothing in tow. :confuse: Took the truck to the dealer they told me there is nothing wrong with my truck. Furthermore, Fords position is if there is no smoke or lights then there is nothing wrong and MPG varies driver to drive and is not a warranty item. Now I am really sick. :sick: Is there anyone else having this problem?
    How can i incresse my MPG ? Don't want to void the warranty. Help......
  • go4damaxgo4damax Member Posts: 3
    Help me Please........ I test drove a F350 FX Crew Long bed and averaged 19.5 MPG 70 to 75mph on the highway. I decided I really only needed the F250. So I just got my 07 6.0 F250 FX Crew Long bed extended warranty and all. My first run was to Atlanta from Miami. I got 13.5 to 14 MPG 70mph nothing in tow. Took the truck to the dealer they told me there is nothing wrong with my truck. Furthermore, Fords position is if there is no smoke or lights then there is nothing wrong and MPG varies driver to drive and is not a warranty item. Now I am really sick. Is there anyone else having this problem?
    How can i incresse my MPG ? Don't want to void the warranty. Help......
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    hello go4damax. i wish i had an excuse to buy a diesel pickup truck, but i don't have anything to tow or haul. anyway, how could you know your mpg during any test drive unless you filled tank, drove for hundreds of miles, and filled it again using same pump?
    i hope you did not believe the dashboard mpg meter during your test drive. those are often "way off".
    anyway, your new truck is probably not broken in yet. mpg should improve gradually over 10k or 20k miles! also i wonder if your truck has offroad-ish tires. maybe some more street-ish tires would help. also what is your tire pressure. for cars i recommend 35 psi, but i'm not a truck guy so i don't know if that would apply to a "real" truck. also if you back it down to 65 mph i bet you will see a substantial mpg improvement. catch you later, i'm 10-8, 10-10 !
  • go4damaxgo4damax Member Posts: 3
    Thank You for your response. I didn't want to write a book on how long I test drove what and when etc..... However, I did drive aprox 600 mile during the test to obtain the 19.5 MPG. Ref the tires I have the Ford 20" rims and Goodyear AT's. I agree slow down is one way to get better mileage I just don't think from 65 to 70MPH would drop the MPG from 19.5 to 13.5. Furthermore, I am reading here that others are getting 19 and 20 MPG. Whats up with that ? Are there any mods I should try? 10-2 10-4 10-8 :shades:
  • jaubuchonjaubuchon Member Posts: 3
    Sorry to here that but in my experience that is what a lot of the ford diesels are getting. A friend of mine has the same problem he went from a dodge to a ford and has gotten way worse mileage. But if you break it in right you should get at least 16 around town & 18 city after about 50k miles from some of the hot shot guys I have talked to. I my self am getting 18-19 mpg in town/ some hwy & 16.5 mpg pulling 16' trailer w/6k tractor in a 2003 dodge dually 3500 I6 diesel have not taken a long hwy trip yet but am looking forward to see what kind of miles I get on just hwy!! Try hand calculating your miles and check your results if you already have not would buy a chip you can just plug in and pull out before you go to dealer if you know what I mean!! I have heard of some really good increases with just a economy chip.
  • coontie57coontie57 Member Posts: 128
    On a recent trip at 60-65mph I got 20.2 with my chevy diesel... on the return 350 mile trip I went 70mph +/- 5 and it dropped to 18.8..
  • plateplate Member Posts: 2
    This last June I bought a 2006 Power stroke with a manual. What a disappointment. My late model 1994 only needed two gears, 3rd and 5th. I got almost 21 mpg down the highway and never got below 14 when towing The 1994 had much better lower end torque. Anyway did a haul from Alaska to Florida and back again. Had about 15K on it before I left and hauled back at 21,500 pounds. The way down dead headed 14.5 mph and on the way back I got 8 and when I used low sulphur it was even less. Oh, the gear spacing does not match the power curve of the engine between 2nd and 3rd. BOOOOOO FORD, that is unacceptable.

    THE QUESTION, I have to make use with what I have. Are there any tuners out there that provide the following.
    1. Returns to the factory computer setting without letting ford know that the truck has been re programmed.
    2. Has a setting for towing that monitors and de fuels the engine before E GT's become excessive? I don't want to damage the engine.
    3. A setting or combination of settings for better fuel ecomony?

    I don't want to damage the engine and most importantly I don't want the factory know if the computer has been reset.

    LAST, Does ford make a closer ratio transmission that matches the torque curve of the engine? High rear end ratios do not correct this problem.

    Anyway, looking for some real help

    PLATE
  • plateplate Member Posts: 2
    I have the same problem. I am very disapointed with ford now. And like you I got blew off with the dealer. The only satisfaction that I will have is not to buy their product any longer. You know, just by making these comments from furstrated customers make future customers shy away. The big let down by Ford was they just blew me off.....OK, no more business.

    I too would like to find a chip where the warranty isn't violated.

    Good luck Plate
  • coontie57coontie57 Member Posts: 128
    I had an Edge Juice chip in the 99 Ford Diesel.. It took care of the exhaust gas temps from getting too hot and it was adjustable.

    When I returned from Alaska and had converter problems I had the whole thing removed from the Ford before I took it to them for warranty work on the tranny... Then I fixed the Ford for good.... I bought a Chevy..

    In my 40 years or so of driving I only saw my vehicles up on rollbacks twice ... both times it was the Ford Diesel... HD can't stand for Heavy Duty.. Perhaps Hardly Durable would be more like it. I had the tranny replaced at 72500 and then again under warranty at 105000 or so. HD for sure. Of course Ford wouldn't do a thing when it went out at 72K miles.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    A 6.5 MPG drop on ULSD? That is unbelievable. The problem is not the fuel. I run a 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD and use ULSD almost exclusively. I have not had any change in FE or performance whatsoever.

    Before you spend money on a tuner, go to a good diesel shop and see what they can do. There may be a simple and inexpensive solution to your problem that does not require a chip.
  • pipfindrpipfindr Member Posts: 34
    I posted before that I was getting 20-21 mpg. on the hwy well not anymore. im at 15-17 mpg but the big difference is the constant amount of weight in the box, doing 70 mph not 60-65 and tire size. I went from stock 18's and went to 33 13 18 (325/60 LT 18) the wider the tire like the 20's the more resistance and less mileage as a result. go back to the stock narrower tires and stop racing every mustang that goes by and your mileage will be over 16 mpg. Also the ford fuel additive works well. put on the pure power diesel intake elbow and add 1-2 mpg! it just arrived my dad did his 6 Lt r. It was less than $200 delivered to my door. 2 hrs and the best upgrade my dad ever did. it will not void warranty because it is not a moving part nor does it interfere with the computer. DO NOT BUY CHIPS they cant re program the computer. Programmers are better as they actually can give you information about what it is doing to your drivetrain. chips cant. Chips are cheap. 2 of my friends recommend the bully dog triple pup or the Edge juice attitude or the banks 6 gun tuner. programmers can undo all programming so they cant blame you for melting their cheap torque converters. most of those programmers have a mileage setting. Chevys suck by the way i would rather have a little less fuel mileage than replace my front end or melt my heads every 30,000 km. My co-worker has a dodge and he and his brother get 25-28 mpg average. my next truck will be the almighty 5.9 cummins. But i do love my ford.
  • pipfindrpipfindr Member Posts: 34
    The crd jeep is more meant to run on ulsd than 6 lt r fords. The motor was designed by mercedes. The powerstroke should run on 5% sulfer or higher not .15% the mileage will be directly affected.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Frankly, I find it difficult to understand how ULSD could negatively impact the Ford Powerstroke diesel you speak of. It is not that old of an engine unless there are some other issues.

    The refiners realized that removing the sulfur reduced the lubricity of the fuel somewhat so they added materials to take care of that problem or some fuel resellers blend between two and five percent biodiesel into the dino diesel to replace the lubricity that way.

    As to the engine in my CRD, it was not designed by Daimler and in fact at the time the smaller sibling of this engine was being made, Detroit Diesel owned the majority of the company, namely V.M. Motori. Chrysler in Europe has been using V.M. Motori diesels for at less fifteen years that I know about and probably longer. V.M. Motori was founded by two brothers in 1947 and that is all they do, as far as I know. They make very rugged diesel engines. Daimler is now the sole owner of the company since late last year.

    The engine in my CRD ran on the S500 (LSD) swill until October of last year. I have been using S15 (ULSD) since then with no ill effects of any kind except for less noise and now almost no smoke under load.
  • pipfindrpipfindr Member Posts: 34
    Every time my PSD Gets the ulsd i notice a huge loss in MPG. My father also owns a 07 Ford PSD he too will drive to another fuelling station to stay away from ulsd. i did go back over the shell station, which i called and asked what they use for diesel, and it is .15 ulsd so i ran 2 tanks and never again. mileage just sucks no more than 16 at best . The day before Yesterday i ran regular diesel and guess what power is back and im at 19 mpg!! Average. I went the same routes same conditions (more or less). I do believe the oil companies take out more than just the sulfer content. the molecules must be less active in ulsd. Molecular activity and structure does make a difference. The faster they move the thicker they appear thus more mileage. when i find a site relating to what im talking about i will post it. I'm asking all ford powerstroke owners to try the same test as i did and let us all know what the results were after using ulsd and just lsd. please keep track of mileage try 3 tanks ulsd then 3 tanks regular unless of course you have an '08 ford. Thanks to all who try this.
Sign In or Register to comment.