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Toyota Pickup (pre-Tacoma) issues
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Comments
also too with the radiators it collects a bunch of crud down in the tubes and blocks off the tubes where its suppose to cool.
:shades:
thanks everyone for your input
How do I find out if this truck has a P-Trac rear end?
Is it normal for the valve covers to start leaking at 180,000 miles?
What are the best or most important mods for this truck?
Timing belt, water pump and Plug wires replaced 10,000 ago. Are there any other things that should be replaced or serviced?
How about air bags support for bed loads and trailer pulling?
Thanx in advance guys for your help.
thanks!
well it was driving me crazy but i prob talked to about 20 people and my mechanic. me and my mechanic came up with the idea that my radiator could be bad. he told me on the phone that with toyota trucks and cavaliers and ford econoline vans have the same problem. he said the difference between these radiators and the other ones is they flow up and down compared to side to side. so all the crud and crap can sit in the bottom and plug the cooling tubes. he told me to bring it down and he was gonna do a laser test on it to see if the temp is the same all over the radiator and the hoses and everywhere the cooling fluid runs.
well come to find out there was a 90 deg diference between the top and bottom. well i went out to my auto shop and spent 180.00$ on the radiator, both hoses, and the cap. i didnt need fluid cause they put new fluid in when they switched out the thermostat. changed out those three things and it hasnt overheated yet. i drove from michigan to florida to missisippi and back to florida and it hasnt overheated yet.
on the old radiator when it was drained i shined a light down in the fill hole and come to find out there was about a 3rd of the cooling tubes plugged.
so i hope that info works for you.
if that is your problem and you decide to replace the radiator dont skimp and just buy the radiator. replace everything that i did and you should change out the fluid also to be on the safe side. depends on where your at but it shouldnt run you more than 300$ on all of it. depends on the warranty you get on the radiator could determine the price.
good luck let me know what you come up with
Does anyone know a way to adjust so it will not cut out the compressor until it gets down to 600 RPM?
Btw, the truck has 230,000 miles on it and runs great otherwise.
Thanks in advance,
- Paul
The other puzzling problem I have is in the cooling system. The truck overheats while it is shut off. If I start it, and run it long enough to get to normal temperature. (Especially in hot weather) Then shut it off, and wait for 5-10 minutes, then restart the engine, my temperature guage will show almost all the way to the red. Is it possible that this is just a problem with the guage itself? Or is there really heat building up while the engine is off?
Any help will be welcome.
- Paul
Thanks in advance- Ray rbrooks6@cox.net
kcram - Pickups Host
Thanks,
Ray
He suggested putting in some "Toyota" fuel injector cleaner to kind of clean things out a little. Is he pulling my leg by promoting the use of the Toyota brand or will any good fuel injector cleaner work?
For the past couple of weeks, I'd be driving down the road and the "yota" would kick forward almost as if the engine has shut off (but it didn't) and then it would buck a couple of times. Then it would drive fine. It kept doing this, progressively getting worse. Finally it started idling really rough when i would start it, and it would kick out black smoke, and eventually die. When I would try to start it back up, it wouldn't start, it just kept cranking. So to try to fix this problem, I replaced the fuel filter (which is a ROYAL PAIN IN THE [non-permissible content removed]!!!), air filter & spark plugs. It already has a new starter. I also had a slight radiator leak so I drained the radiator and added antifreeze & stop leak. The truck, after a couple of hiccups, ran like a champ.
Then after about a week or so, I noticed it starting to run Hot. Not overheat but to the point I would turn on my heater to try and keep it a little cooler. It appears my water pump is now leaking, so I am going to replace it & my thermostat. I think this should fix my heating issue. But after warming up, the yota kinda hiccups and shuts off. And again, it just cranks not start. After about five-ten minutes it will, but what the f#@k? My check engine light comes on periodically and shuts off after a little bit. Is this connected to the heating issue? What could cause these problems? SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Just FYI today I changed my waterpump, thermostat, both belts, and did a completely flushed my radiator. The truck isn't leaking anymore, and it's not running hot. But it'll run fine for a while, then choke up and die. I am starting to think it's a vacuum leak or something. F#$@ING SMOG SH#%!!
Perform a compression check on the motor to verify this diagnosis.
Your problem is exactly the same as my problem with my 92 3.0L V-6. I also had codes 14, 25, and 26. I replaced the Os sensor, cap and rotor, and refitt all of the electrical wires. Eventually, I got it down to just code 25, but the engine started idling roughly. It would still run fine at speed with a very slight loss in power.
I went out and got a compression tester, and checked the engine today. The number 4 cylinder has almost no compression, anbd I noticed a slight oil leak above the plug hole. Diagnosis: a leaking head gasket (again). Last time it was between adjacent cylinders (4 and 6), which had a more noticeable effect at idle.
Perform a compression test on your engine, especially cylinders 4 and 6 since they are the ones that usually go bad. A blown gasket will be readily apparent with a pressure of well below 100psi. These engines had a recall for a badly designed head gasket, which was blowing frequently. Toyota replaced these gaskets with a supposedly redesigned gasket. I think they just installed a new one of the same design. Either that or the problem is with the head design rather than the gasket.
Other symptoms would be a coolant or oil leak if the gasket leak is bad, and poor gas mileaage compared to past mileage.
P.S. The raw gas being dumped by a leaking cyclinder could have comtaminated your new O2 sensor.
Put on a new fuel pump and filter. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor. No change. Any help would be appreciated.
I didn't see a MAFS, just a big box with a flap. I assume it does the same thing. I'll have to figure out how to check it.
Thanks
The box with the flap on top of the air cleaner is the Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF). It looks a little different than other cars, but that is it. The air moving through the tube moves the flap back and forth, which turns the sensor, and then sends the data to the computer.
danny
My question is what could be causing this knocking and squealing?
The truck is worth putting a reman. short block in it at $1000. cost. I'm hoping its just the crank/ rod bearings and I can just replace those. I'm no mechanic, I'm just guessing. Is there any other issues with doing a rebuild that I should know of?
Any info would be helpful.
I started today and have it just about ready to come out. I think the worst was the wiring. Pulling all those wires though the intake manifold and the wiring that goes back to the tranny and transfer case. It should be a real pain getting them all back in and going to the right spot. Some went up, back, down, across, oh ya fun,fun,fun.
Overall I think it went well. I did an online parts request for a engine and received about 7 responses. One is 55 miles away, 93,000 miles on it and a cost of $600.
I do have some questions and see link to photos below. Is this where I should disconect the fuel line (4th pic)? How do I get the 2 17mm bolts out of the upper bell housing right next to the firewall (2nd & 3rd pic)? I realy didn't try hard, I was done for the day and getting tired. I thought I read somewhere I might be better off taking out the tranny with the engine, is this true?
Picture 5 is what came out of the bottom of the radiator and some of the other low hoses, very oily and sludgy. When I removed the steel elbow that is conected with two hoses from the water pump to the bottom of the radiator, there was a thick oily sludge coming out of it.
What is you take on this cross mixing? Where did the oil and coolant get mixed at? Is it probably under the timing chain cover?
http://www.mytoyotatruck.com/spacoli/
And does anyone know who made bed liners for it.