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Comments
I'm quite puzzled by this problem. I would have suspected a bad ECM module except he passed the smog test.
Very often these types of difficult problems lack a critical detail that has not been reported (or perhaps observed) by mechanic or owner, and once that detail is known, we all slap our foreheads and say OF COURSE! :P
I mean, if the engine was really running that rich, and the front O2 sensor was working correctly, wouldn't the ECU try to lean things out to try and keep the air/fuel ratio at the stochiometric point (what's that 14:1?)? Then if it couldn't do that, throw a code?
You should get an "A" for creativity as I've never heard of that one before...
I just was looking under the hood, searching for any fuel and or vacuum leaks when i noticed this weird noise coming from the manifold when i rev it. Heres the video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoBqgFVNhEQ
Try popping the accessory belt off, and then start the vehicle and run it briefly to see if the whining stops (then proving it's external to the engine), or continues to whine. I don't know the saturn specifically, but look on the tensioner pulley assembly for either a wrench or pry bar attachment point. Take the tension off the belt, slide the belt off, then slowly release the tensioner to it's rest position. Take note of how the belt routes, so you can put it back the same way.
If the whining stops with the belt off, turn the engine off, and with your hand slowly turn/wiggle each accessory to see if you can feel which bearing is a problem.
As I listed I recently replaced the fuel filter. I bought one from auto zone for 35 bucks. The fuel regulator for the 98-02 s- series is located in the fuel filter. The 35 buck one is JUST the filter, no regulator. Basically the cars running with no fuel regulator. The previous owner must have done the same thing and put in a filter with no regulator, which is why I've been getting the bad gas mileage since i bought the car. That would also explain the black soot on the exhaust pipe.
I have no idea how the car is running practically perfect with no regulator, but the map sensor must be making up for it enough not to throw a code. I'm gonna order the OEM 92 dollar regulator/filter from RockAuto.com and see what happens.
But anyway, fitting just a rear muffler to most modern cars is usually just a matter of undoing some clamps and hangers. But you'd best check to see that yours isn't welded up, especially if it's an older car. Muffler shops often weld in replacement mufflers.
Getting any real HP boost is generally expensive.
Yes it is. Does that stop someone who can't afford a new cat or looking to cheaply increase performance? Nope not in a state that doesn't have emissions testing.
I run a fleet of 127 GMC and Chevy 3500 cutaway box trucks. The 2 issues that have cropped up consistently over the past few years are fuel pumps (inadequate design) and exhaust manifolds that crack before 100,000 miles. I researched every manifold repair I had done and noticed a pattern of prior O2 sensor failure of some sort in nearly every instance. Out of the 9 documented cases, 4 of the trucks also had to have new catalytic converters. My theory is this: Faulty O2 sensors or deteriorating cat converters are the culprits. I believe it's a domino effect starting with the sensor which in turn destroyed my converters and subsequently cracked the manifolds.
Thoughts?
One way to kill a cat is to have a overly rich fuel mixture , or misfire, which leads to high amounts of unburnt fuel in the exhaust, which in turn "burns" in the cat, overheating and destroying it.
So, maybe the crack in the manifold occurred first. This may have led the O2 sensor to think the engine was running too lean, so it caused the ECU to richen then air-fuel ratio, which results in high amounts of unburnt fuel in the exhaust stream.
Just a theory.
It's also possible that some other seam can allow gases to be sucked in, that's true.
One possible but not conclusive test would be to button up the truck tightly so that there are no vents, no windows, nothing open, then drive and see if you smell something. If not, then crack a window--if suddenly the odor gets strong, then yes, there is some seal or seam that is not right.
As for a leak in the exhaust system itself---the smoke test is a bit wussy---I mean, one way might be to stuff a rag in the tailpipe (well,hold it over the tail pipe tightly), while the truck is on a rack, and have another person test/listen for a slight exhaust leak===in a pipe or even in the exhaust manifold gasket.
You only need the tiniest of leaks to create this odor because when accelerating, there's a lot of force in the exhaust pipe.
In any event, this is a safety issue that has to be addressed.
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/30002/10002/-1?parentProduct- Id=751310
Any help will be appreciated.
Hope this helps.
C
Could help me identify this muffler? looks like Mitsubishi
Has anyone had any experience with these totalflow mini mufflers?
My car has a Magnaflow and I love how it sounds. It has a nice deepish tone and no drone at all. I got this muffler from 4wheelonline.