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Fuel Systems -- Maintenance & Repair

Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
edited August 2018 in General
This forum is for "fuel systems", which means, ANY COMPONENT THAT THE FUEL COMES IN CONTACT WITH.

This would include injectors, injector rail, fuel pump, fuel relays, filters, gas tank, filling spouts, and the fuel itself or its additives.

This forum is generally NOT for engine management systems, air filters, throttle bodies, sensors, etc., which should go in "Technical Questions" or in the forum for your particular car.
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Comments

  • cheri05cheri05 Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I have had the fuel injection replaced 3 times in the last 3 years.
    The last one was only 60 miles ago and needs replacement again.
    Could this be a factory defect on the Jimmy or could it be a parts defect???
    I am desperate for answers, does anyone know where I can go for some Honest answers?
    Thank You
    che`ri :sick: ">
  • mslaymslay Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I have a 95 toyota pickup 5 speed 2.4 liter engine. I know my problem but need to know how to fix it. The problem is I have a bad fuel pump that is inside the fuel tank. What I need to know is how do I replace it? Thanks
  • bluzmonbluzmon Member Posts: 3
    Go to your favorite auto parts store and buy an after market electric fuel pump.

    Install it inline to your fuel line. You need to check to make sure fuel will still pass through the old pump first.
    I have done this more than once with great results.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Not sure what you mean by replacing the fuel injection. The injection system is comprised of many components.
  • johnson9johnson9 Member Posts: 2
    HAVE A PERKINS DIESEL
    REPLACED ALL FILTERS AND FEED PUMP
    ALL LINES BEEN BLEED
    FUEL GOING TO INJECTOR PUMP BUT DOES NOT LEAVE PUMP
    GOING TO INJECTORS.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Question: How can you have bled the lines when there is no fuel going to the injectors?
  • johnson9johnson9 Member Posts: 2
    OK I BLEED INJECTOR PUMP BUT CAN"T BLEED LINES GOING TO INJECTORS NO FUEL WILL NOT COME OUT . TRYED TURNING ENGINE WITH LINES LOOSE AT INJECTORS NO FUEL COMING OUT
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'm not familiar with this engine so....is this a mechanical pump? If so, what feeds it---a rear electric pump? If so, have you check for fuel going into your injection pump and all filters, etc.?

    I know this sounds obvious but I'm trying to check your work here.
  • 25332533 Member Posts: 1
    Can the elements of fuel pumps be interchanged with two different Make. What are the possible problems that may occur if you do that?
  • kmeltonkmelton Member Posts: 1
    Can someone tell me where the fuel filter is located in a 2000 Ford Excursion V-8 5.4 liter? DO I need to release the fuel pressure when changing it and do I need a special tool to get it out?

    thanks
    ken
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You might want to post this question in the Ford Excursion Owners: Problems and Solutions forum.

    Shifty the Host
  • kratus1kratus1 Member Posts: 33
    I have a distinct humming coming from the rear of my subaru and I think it's most likely the fuel pump....should this be a big concern or no?...
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Hard to say since on some cars the pumps are inherently more noisy than others. If it suddenly got noisy, that could indicate some wear, sure. As for "concern"....you know...there's not much you can do about it and really, if it dies it's not the end of the world, like a timing belt breakage might be.
  • dave57dave57 Member Posts: 1
    What is the procedure to remove the fuel pump module from the tank?
  • sheba68sheba68 Member Posts: 2
    I am considering buying this vehicle. It has 143k miles and a good price, but...
    The foglights, cruise control, and rear brake lights do not work. All fuses have been checked and are okay. The button for the foglights does not stay pushed in and if I hold it in, the lights still do not come on. The parking lights work, but do the brakes work a second bulb? Or is it a two stage bulb? As for the cruise control, I have no idea where to begin. Any suggestions or help would be appreciated!!
  • sheba68sheba68 Member Posts: 2
    Also, the low fuel light comes on and goes off while driving with plenty of gas in the tank. I am completely lost on this one.
  • srwasrwa Member Posts: 1
    Fuel problem;

    Only getting 8.23 volts at the fuel pump power connector. Pump wont run. Voltage at the ASD(automatic shutdown relay) is 12.36v on both sides when key is on.

    Where do I look?

    Ken
  • mek0123mek0123 Member Posts: 33
    Ran over a piece of steel that punctured steel gasoline tank on '98 Blazer w/110K miles. (Original owner). Drove it to dealership and left it in nightdrop. Monday morning they called with a $800.00 quote. Had it towed to local shop and they put tank on for almost 1/3 price. Truck wouldn't start and fuel pump diagnosed as bad now. No power from the pump was the diagnosis. (Second fuel pump now as original replaced under warranty at 60K due to low pump volume). What could the dealership do that would have caused the pump to allegedly be bad?? It was running fine before this. 4.3L engine, 4x4 w/ 18 gallon tank. I visually checked relay and fuse and found nothing apparently out or order. Any ideas on what else to check in case the pump is good? Can anybody give me any ideas?
  • debugdebug Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1988 S10 2.8 that wont start, hot or cold, with out priming the throttle body first. New fuel pump, new IAC, no codes. The truck runs rough after getting started acts like it is over fueling. I have checked the pressure regulator but I was told that some of theses throttle bodies have a free flow regulator in them and that they will not build much pressure. One mechanic suggested a spider gear?? I haven't seen any information about such a thing. I need a break down of this throttle body and some specs on it if possable...... lost and in need of help
    thank you
    Jeff (debug) :cry:
  • jak5jak5 Member Posts: 1
    I have an MX-6 (1988) standard. The fuel pump pressure looks good. I've changed the fuel filter. The car will idol and accelerate in the drive way just fine, however when driving the power to the fuel pump is being cut off intermittently. (I temporarily installed a brake light above the fuel pump in the back seat.) After stalling the engine will start again just fine.
  • lcribbonlcribbon Member Posts: 1
    i havce a 1996 mazda 626 lately been driving really bad and using lots of fuel felt like fuel not getting through changed plugs anf fuel filter it was then i saw a vacuum hose had snapped off but aft looking for hours still cant find out where it has come from and is now drrriving me crazy but am not gonna let it beat me please help
  • erik_8erik_8 Member Posts: 1
    How would a non-mechanic know that their fuel pump is on the brink? I took my 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport into the Dealer for the 20-some odd point inspection. The mechanic heard a very high-pitched sound coming from the middle of the vehicle, possibly over where the fuel pump is located on the gas tank. Every other time I took it there, they could never hear it. He wanted $175. to tell me if the pump is bad or not, then another $750. - 850. to install a new one. This high pitch noise has been randomly sounding on and off for almost a year. A new fuel pump can only be purchased at Chrysler/Dodge garage, but I found a used one at a salvage yard from a wrecked Town&Country. I also purchased a new O-ring for ten bucks (what a rip...) Has anyone ever heard this noise before their fuel pump went bad?? Is this a real sign its going bad and needs replaced? I could use some recommendations if anyone has experienced this, or from some awesome mechanics......
  • csouthardcsouthard Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone tell me the ball-park price of having a new fuel pump installed in a 1996 GMC Yukon truck. My son just purchased the truck and a week later the fuel pump has gone bad. I have been quoted $450.00 is that about right and if so do you think the truck is worth keeping, it has 180,000 miles. Also, the air conditioner isn't working the boy who he got the truck from said it needs a need metal pipe installed. Would anyone know how much that's going to cost? Help, single mother trying to raise a son on her on. thanks,cheryl :blush::blush:
  • 93jimmybaby93jimmybaby Member Posts: 2
    Jimmy started to stall on the highway, after sitting awhile started up again. Replaced fuel pump and fuel filter, problem occurred again. Took to dealership, ran vehicle until problem happened again. Now telling me I need another fuel pump and/or sending unit. This is the second time in two years that I have replaced fuel pump/filter. Is anyone else having this problem or have had it and figured out the cause. Looking at $900.00 repair, hate to spend it if problem will be continuing. Thanks in advance for any info. :confuse:
  • tbobbtbobb Member Posts: 4
    I am having the same problem with my 1998 GMC Jimmy. I need another fuel pump In less than 6 months. This is crazy these things are expensive. I will check the fuel filter as well, but I would think because I needed one 2 weeks after I bought the truck that the dealer would have replaced it at the same time. :cry: :confuse: :mad: :(
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    uh, maybe kept trying to start the car to drive it in to replace a bad and empty fuel tank? lot jockeys are not always the highest mammal on the food chain. I made sure to put a big bold sign over the dash on my exploder when I, uh, discovered that you need a serpentine belt tool to get a new belt on my truck so they wouldn't try to start it up and tear the new belt and who knows what all else up spinning the half-installed belt off. it worked, everybody complained about how heavy that truck was to push uphill ;)
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    clever test. however, the fuel pump does not run full-time, but based on the output of a pressure switch at the fuel pressure regulator, is switched on and off as needed through a relay. possible things to look at are the relay, the pressure switch if a separate part, or the fuel pressure regulator. that can either be on/near the back of the engine, or in the fuel pump assembly itself. worth changing the relay just because it's cheap and easy to get to, and enough of them get funny that it's a natural place to start. if you have to have a mechanic do it, it's probably cheaper to do a system diagnosis on the flowchart than to sling parts in order of cost, because the labor will have to be done over and over, and it's going to be the highest cost part of the job.
  • ttavttav Member Posts: 1
    I have an 88 S10 that is doing the same thing. I am about to replace the fuel pump but after reading your email I will do a few more test. I've tested all of the sensors, looked at the pressure regulator, and went through the ingnition system. The last thing I did was prime the throttle body and it ran for a couple of seconds. The spray from the nozzles doesn't look like what is shown in the book. The spark plugs were soaked last time I pulled them which puzzles me. Did you figure our your problem?

    Tom
  • 93jimmybaby93jimmybaby Member Posts: 2
    after discussing the problem with others I understand that the 98 tank is under full pressure. Your inline check valve may be failing. Anyone been trying to syphon you gas? :confuse:
  • scarletbegoniascarletbegonia Member Posts: 1
    I HOPE I AM IN THE RIGHT SPOT... THIS IS CONCERNING A 98 DISCOVERY SE ( I BELIEVE)
    MY PROB IS EVERY TIME MY GAS TANK GETS TO A QUARTER TANK OF GAS (LAST BAR BEFORE EMPTY RED LINE) IT SHUTTERS , LOSSES POWER AND BASICALLY DOES THE FUNKY CHICKEN..
    MOSTLY WHEN I TRY TO GO ON THE FREEWAY AND ESPECIALLY IF I AM GOING UP HILL
    PS I HAVE TRYED MANY GAS TREATMENTS AND THAT HEET STUFF
    PLEASE HELP ME
    SCARLET
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    A friendly suggestion if I may?

    You need to turn off your CAPS LOCK. Most users will not respond to posts with CAPS LOCK because it is too hard to read.

    Host
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Sounds like an easy solution...

    Just keep you tank filled above the last quarter!
  • bishop753bishop753 Member Posts: 8
    Ken, what I suggest is going to your local auto store and find the manual for your vehicle. It tells you details on how to change your air filter to brake and so on.
    Give it a try because I had manuals for every vehicle I drove.
  • rembrandtstlrembrandtstl Member Posts: 5
    Having a no start problem. Replaced fuel pump, relay, injectors & wire harness
    No power detected from OBD to injectors.
    Dealer suggested it was the Power control module not the "brain" and
    gave us a drawing showing the PCM on the pass side of the engine inside the van
    BUT we can't identify it! ANY help? Or other suggestions.
    Regards, Mel :confuse:
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    explorers up to 2001s are well known for a little "feature" of the baffles of the fuel tank in that turning left abruptly, as from being stopped, on less than a quarter of a tankful will cause the car to stall and stop. the baffles keep the fuel from covering the pump pickup on that turning movement. you are doubtless beset with folks who came from the same design school. keep the tank fuller and you should not have the issue again.
  • xanaxedxanaxed Member Posts: 1
    How do I trouble shoot the fuel system? My car wont start, and I suspect the fuel system.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Start with a fuel pressure gauge.
  • sprnter1sprnter1 Member Posts: 1
    I just replaced the engine in my 93 probe and did so with a professional mechanic. All of the wireing harnesses were reconnected and the master computer was even replaced. The car turns over but the fuel injectors aren't firing. The pump is still working but its not getting the signal to send fuel. Any ideas?
  • landshacklandshack Member Posts: 4
    try the Airtex website
    WWW.Airtex.com
    they have a video that just might solve your problem.
    I own a 1977 toyota RV yes that's right RV 1977 20 R motor with 78000 mi
    and I am starting to have a problem with the electric fuel pump
    I am replacing mine with an aftermarket one just before the fuel filter just to give the old one some help
    landshack :)
  • landshacklandshack Member Posts: 4
    that is most likely the price
    if he is still in high school and they have and auto shop class (should take auto shop I did and it helped me) see if the teacher will allow him to bring in the truck. he just might save you and him some $$$$$$ and get some good grades to boot.
    landshack
  • pdurnienpdurnien Member Posts: 1
    I have recently aquired a 740, the previous owner told me that some times the auto choke came on. After some investigation I found this not to be the case, some days it works fine, starting as I would expect on a mild day. other days it can start up the same but by the time I have driven 200 yards, it has gone into a fast idle mode 1500 RPM or so. Any ideas?
  • mkovacmkovac Member Posts: 1
    Help! I've got a 96 Saturn that seems to be flooding it self out chanhed plugs wires,pvc, fuel filter , when it first starts it really smokes white and smells of unburnt fuel. Any help Would be highly appreciated. :mad:
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Check for gasoline in the vacuum hose at the fuel pressure regulator. If so, replace the regulator:
    http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/medium/0900823d8019a2d5.gif

    If ok, probably the coolant temperature sensor.
  • ludvigerludviger Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I have Grand Cherokee 96, V8, 5,2. After only several kilometers of driving on the rear side I feel odor of gasoline, without any drops of fuel on the floor of my garage.
    Regards Boris Hi,
    :confuse:
  • bsnoveltiesbsnovelties Member Posts: 1
    whats the best way to test an injector to see if working
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You mean the injector itself or the electric impulse going to it?
  • mmiller4mmiller4 Member Posts: 1
    You didn't mention if your Perkins had a manual fuel shut off or an electric solenoid. I suspect you have an electrical fuel solenoid and it is either bad, or not receiving power. Look for either an electrical wire going to the injection pump, or a second lever on top of the pump besides the throttle control. Which ever fuel shut off it has, it must be turned on while bleeding the injector system. (Note: it also helps to give full throttle position while cranking to pump as much fuel into the injector lines as possible.
  • e85fane85fan Member Posts: 9
    :confuse: Let’s have a discussion about E85 and its pros and cons. I have heard many myths which we have dispelled, some of them I still question. Here is some background:

    E85 (a mix of 85% grain alcohol and 15% gasoline) is now spreading like crazy. I recently found out that it is sold just down the street from me. It is cheaper than gasoline (although the mileage is a fraction lower), it has a higher octane level (which makes your car feel like it's had a tune up and an HP kick), it is clean burning and is made from American grown corn. It is a superior fuel to gasoline and as an added plus it is the sure-fire way to get us off of foreign oil. Here are some thoughts on E85:

    Check to see if it is available at a pump near you by visiting [url=http://www.e85fuel.com]www.e85fuel.com[/url] .

    Check to see if you already have a FlexFuel Vehicle (FFVs - are vehicles built or converted to run on gasoline or E85). Many cars are and owners don't even know it. You can find out by going to the site above. If you have an FFV you have nothing to concern yourself with, just fill 'er up with E85!

    Now, I am going to suggest something that flies in the face of all of the widely spread myths out there: After significant research and experience we are of the opinion (although we are still researching some issues which we believe are myths), that ANY multipoint fuel injected car (which has an oxygen sensor in the exhaust) can run on E85 without any conversion! I think most cars made in the late 90s include a multipoint fuel injection system.

    I have a 2000 SAAB 95 6cyl and I have been running on half gasoline and half E85 for several months now and have experienced nothing different other than better starting, better kick and cleaner emissions. I am finally convinced, after significant research and the help of my husband who has been building racing engines and running race cars on straight grain alcohol for decades. My next tank will be all E85 and I will be checking back to let you know the outcome.

    Do your own research and share your experiences, but here are some of the myths we have encountered:

    1. Alcohol is corrosive to the gas tank, hoses, seals and other "soft parts" of a vehicle as well as and pistons. Anything over time is corrosive. Water created the Grand Canyon, but that took a little while to occur. In fact, gasoline is more corrosive and dirtier than ethanol alcohol. That is one reason why modern gasoline usually contains 10% ethanol and detergents, i.e. to keep unleaded gasoline from gumming up things. With E85 all of those detergents are unnecessary.

    It is true that Methyl Alcohol (made from wood) is more corrosive and stickier than Ethyl Alcohol. Several years ago, GM did a test study running a fleet of cars of a mixture with Methyl Alcohol and there were problems. Since then the word has been that all alcohol is corrosive and damaging to your car. NOT true. Ethyl Alcohol will clean your engine. Any race car tech will tell you that opening up an engine which ran on all grain alcohol is clean as whistle and looks like a new engine. We are certain that this is a myth and has no basis in fact.

    2. Larger fuel injectors are needed because more a car needs more grain alcohol than gasoline to run. We already run E10 in our cars and our cars are built to sense that and compensate for the additional oxygen in alcohol. There is not a significant difference in the amount needed to run E85 which would justify the need for larger injectors.

    3. Your pistons will melt. I think this one is just plain silly. The boiling point of alcohol is far lower than gasoline. That is one reason why race car drivers love grain alcohol -- the car runs cooler. That being true, it stands to reason that running your car cooler will actually extend the life of its component parts.

    4. The compression ratio must be adjusted for E85. On this one, we are still researching and would love input. We believe that there should be no problems. I have had no problems but we advanced the timing a few degrees just to make sure. If you need an adjustment, your car should let you know, but it shouldn’t hurt anything.

    5. We can't grow enough corn to meet the demand. Right now, through farm subsidies we are paying our farmers NOT to grow corn because it is so easy to grow and floods the market. Grain alcohol is made from corn which is not food quality. It uses the entire cob and parts of the stalk and leaves too! It is transported to a local distillery/refinery in a mulch-type form. This keeps the need for long gas pipelines and dangerous gasoline tanker trucks to a minimum. We have sufficient corn growing ability to supply much of the need. We certainly don't need to deplete our soils by growing too much corn, but there are other crops which are equally as effective in making grain alcohol (so we can rotate the crops), but corn is certainly the most plentiful and cheapest to grow. Wouldn't that be a great problem if half the country was using E85 and we started running short of corn? Other farmers could get into the act and share in the profits as well.

    6. Alcohol is more volatile than gasoline. This one is just ridiculous. Ask any chemistry student to check into this. Alcohol is far less volatile than gasoline. It is safer to have around us in our gas tanks and in tanker trucks on the road. Hydrogen, on the other hand is extremely volatile, so why the automotive industry is married to the idea that we will one day run our vehicles on hydrogen and fuel cells is beyond me. I don't want a tank of hydrogen in my car!

    7. E85 is a "political fuel." I am not sure what that means. I have heard it several times, but isn't a fuel a fuel? Either it works better than gasoline or it doesn't. We believe it most certainly does. If you want to look at the politics surrounding it feel free. Obviously it threatens the oil industry and gives a kick to American corn growers. It also reduces our dependency on foreign oil which prevents our need for war and false friendships with otherwise unfriendly nations. I suppose I would rather give my money to a corn farmer in Iowa than the Saudi Royal Family or other Middle Eastern super rich country. Politics aside – we think E85 is a no-brainer. It is far superior to gasoline and is a renewable fuel.

    What are your thoughts? I would love to hear comments and your experiences with E85.
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    Politics aside – we think E85 is a no-brainer. It is far superior to gasoline and is a renewable fuel.

    Without the politics and the fat subsidy you would not see E85 at the station. Vehicles that run on E85 get about 25% lower mileage. I think biodiesel is a better way to use our crop land. I am not sure on the volatility issue with ethanol. All reports I have read say it is more dangerous to transport than gasoline. If you have documentation to the contrary feel free to share with us. Lastly the cost to produce ethanol is higher than biodiesel. You cannot run the farm equipment on ethanol. I think it is a political fuel to get more money into the hands of the mega farmers.

    PS
    Welcome to the Forum!!! :)
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